Fulcrum Racing 3, Campy Zonda, Other?
02-19-19, 06:23 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The wheels came today, 2 days early!
When I bought them they rang up at $370 on Wiggle, because I was having trouble getting a $10 new customer code to work. CS ended up refunding me $20 instead of $10, so these were a mere $350 to my door, which is awesome.
Impressions:
1) They are gorgeous and my RS010s on my bike look positively gross in comparison.
2) My reservations about the G3 lacing evaporated immediately, it looks awesome in person
3) Very light, very well built
4) Held the rear wheel in one hand and turned the freehub counterclockwise as if I was pedaling backwards and was surprised it was silent? Wasn't expecting that, maybe coasting instead of pedaling backwards will be loud.
5) Honestly can't tell if the splined part of the freehub is plastic or aluminum, really hard to tell if it's gray plastic or painted gray aluminum. Campy states alloy hubs but that's all they say, which presumably is the meat between the spokes and not the splined cassette holder.
Really thrilled with my purchase, especially at that low of a price...just need GP 5000s now.
When I bought them they rang up at $370 on Wiggle, because I was having trouble getting a $10 new customer code to work. CS ended up refunding me $20 instead of $10, so these were a mere $350 to my door, which is awesome.
Impressions:
1) They are gorgeous and my RS010s on my bike look positively gross in comparison.
2) My reservations about the G3 lacing evaporated immediately, it looks awesome in person
3) Very light, very well built
4) Held the rear wheel in one hand and turned the freehub counterclockwise as if I was pedaling backwards and was surprised it was silent? Wasn't expecting that, maybe coasting instead of pedaling backwards will be loud.
5) Honestly can't tell if the splined part of the freehub is plastic or aluminum, really hard to tell if it's gray plastic or painted gray aluminum. Campy states alloy hubs but that's all they say, which presumably is the meat between the spokes and not the splined cassette holder.
Really thrilled with my purchase, especially at that low of a price...just need GP 5000s now.
02-23-19, 09:32 AM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
1) Right
2) Should be Type20 skewers which am fairly certain are internal cam
3) Maybe ok, but IMO likely small tweak to indexing or limits may be required.
FWIW, you may want to bring your new wheelset into the LBS for the cassette swap and RD adjustments if necessary.. Have them put on the Conti 5000s and tube in while you're there as well. Whatever you pay will be less probably than getting a chainwhip and lockring tool; though of course you will probably eventually want these anyway.
2) Should be Type20 skewers which am fairly certain are internal cam
3) Maybe ok, but IMO likely small tweak to indexing or limits may be required.
FWIW, you may want to bring your new wheelset into the LBS for the cassette swap and RD adjustments if necessary.. Have them put on the Conti 5000s and tube in while you're there as well. Whatever you pay will be less probably than getting a chainwhip and lockring tool; though of course you will probably eventually want these anyway.
Question is, is that something the bike shop can do entirely on a bike stand or would they need to road test it afterwards under rider load and continue tweaking back at the shop until it's dialed in? I only ask because we have 4 ft of snow outside, so not sure if this is something I can get effective/definitive results bringing it in now or if I should wait a few months until the roads are rideable.
02-23-19, 11:54 AM
#28
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I haven't read every post, so I apologize if I'm rehashing this. Is there a reason you expected the free hub to be loud? I have a 3 sets of Zonda / Racing 3 and the free hubs on all of them are very, very quiet.
02-23-19, 12:26 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
I've seen it posted on purchase sites that they are silent, but every youtube vid and forum post seems to indicate they are quite loud. Not a big deal either way I guess.
02-23-19, 12:36 PM
#30
Senior Member
I have a set of Zondas. When the freehubs need relubing, then they are noisy.
Zondas are one of the great values in cycling. Reasonably light, strong and aero. I don't think it makes any sense to pay more for clincher wheels - any more expense results in tiny, marginal gains.
if you need better wheels than these, you'll be on tubulars, where you can shed minimum 200 grams right away due to the insurmountable advantage of the tubular rim shape.
Zondas are one of the great values in cycling. Reasonably light, strong and aero. I don't think it makes any sense to pay more for clincher wheels - any more expense results in tiny, marginal gains.
if you need better wheels than these, you'll be on tubulars, where you can shed minimum 200 grams right away due to the insurmountable advantage of the tubular rim shape.
03-23-19, 04:54 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
So I picked up 25mm GP 5000s (coming from the stock 25mm Continental Ultrasports) and Continental Race 28 tubes in the smaller 20-25mm size. I mounted the tires today, and the installation alone made me really happy with my wheel/tire/tube choice - I was able to mount both tires by hand in just a few minutes with no levers, easiest install I've ever done; I think using a tube on the smaller end of the spectrum really helps, along with the really supple rubber of the 5000s. My Ultrasports as well as my Specialized Espoir Sports on my hybrid are a real challenge to get mounted, even with levers since they are pretty stiff...as is my Vittoria folding trainer tire. I now have a lot more confidence in doing a roadside repair and not needing to make the call of shame. As reported elsewhere, the 25mm 5000s are narrow, and probably measure out true - they are identical in width to my Ultrasports once inflated - I know people say the 4000s are a lot wider than the size listed.
I mounted the front wheel on the bike using the new Campy QR skewer, and adjusted the brake to accommodate the wider C17 rim. I turned the bike upside down and gave the front wheel a spin and it was true as an arrow and I couldn't believe how well the hub spun compared to the RS010 anchors the wheels are replacing - that Zonda hub seemed to spin forever before it finally came to a stop.
I haven't installed the rear wheel yet, as I still need to move the cassette over, and I'm debating whether to get a lockring tool and chain whip and do it myself (I do have a torque wrench for the final 40 Nm setting) or just bring both the old and new wheel to the LBS and let them handle it for me for a few bucks. Once that's done I'm excited to mount the rear one, open up that brake a bit, and then I will for sure let the LBS do final derailleur checks/adjustments before I take it out on the road.
The front wheel looks so much better on the bike, can't wait to get the rear on and see what that looks like, and start riding.
I mounted the front wheel on the bike using the new Campy QR skewer, and adjusted the brake to accommodate the wider C17 rim. I turned the bike upside down and gave the front wheel a spin and it was true as an arrow and I couldn't believe how well the hub spun compared to the RS010 anchors the wheels are replacing - that Zonda hub seemed to spin forever before it finally came to a stop.
I haven't installed the rear wheel yet, as I still need to move the cassette over, and I'm debating whether to get a lockring tool and chain whip and do it myself (I do have a torque wrench for the final 40 Nm setting) or just bring both the old and new wheel to the LBS and let them handle it for me for a few bucks. Once that's done I'm excited to mount the rear one, open up that brake a bit, and then I will for sure let the LBS do final derailleur checks/adjustments before I take it out on the road.
The front wheel looks so much better on the bike, can't wait to get the rear on and see what that looks like, and start riding.
03-31-19, 07:36 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
I just went thru the same thing. What value priced wheelset to get? I don't believe in dropping big money on wheels. When guys with $2K wheels can drop me because of the wheels, then I may reconsider but most can't and most of the guys I ride with have deep section carbon wheels.
I just built a new bike. 2018 Cervelo R3. Its been a work in progress and started life with Di2 and now its mostly Campy with some Shimano parts I like. I went with the Zonda's.
Btw, the bike came with Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels which I found to be excellent as well.
https://road.cc/content/review/16668...elite-wheelset
I switched them to another bike and decided that the Zonda's with their more understated aesthetic suited the Cervelo better. I can't tell you which wheelset I prefer...the Mavics or the Zonda's. Almost the same weight and stiffness....Zonda's maybe a hint stiffer...about the same 15xx grams in weight...both with now more popular 17mm internal rim width which melds nicely with 25c tires aerodynamically.
I will say this Cervelo with these wheels is a very fast bike. It just wants to run and my times over my route are lower and average speed is generally higher for same weather conditions compared to other bikes I own. Not a lot but noticeable.. Bike probably matters more than the wheels...mostly aerodynamics but suffice to say the Zonda wheels are fast enough. I prefer the G3 spoke lacing in back FWIW. Go read some reviews and I believe you will be ok with it. For the $$ to me and many others, the Zonda's are Campy's best value wheelset and I have Fulcrums on other bikes. I believe Campy and Fulcrum are perhaps the best production value wheels on the market or certainly top 5. Have had great luck with them.
As to price and solid supplier, likely any of the on line bike shops out of the UK. I bought these a couple of months back from Chain Reaction...an excellent UK supplier and paid a modest $351.00 shipped to the US. A footnote is, these Zondas have the quietest rear hub I have heard among Campy wheels...with Shimano freehub btw because I run Ultegra 11s cassettes with Campy groupsets.
Dark pic of my bike. The bike is deep blue with red accents and the frameset is as good as all the reviews says it it...all Cervelo knows about bike development when into it and that's a lot.
Btw, you are not heavy for a bike rider. I am the same size as Kittel at 180 lbs even though he can put out twice the watts that I can...or almost.
One of my best friends now in his late 40's raced for Trek at 190 lbs. Of course he was a sprinter then and massively strong.https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-28363129
Well, I own several sets of Zonda/Racing 3s as well as some Shamal, Eurus and Racing 0. For the one's the OP is asking about I'll just say that both seem to work fine for me, have been trouble free and are still quiet. I'm more in the 190-200 lb range nowdays and tend to ride fast or rough chipseal roads. I usually do 5000-8000 miles a year although this is shared among my 20 some bikes. I have never had to touch a spoke on any of the Zonda/Racing 3. And to be honest, all the other wheels have shown me is that they are more expensive while not making me any faster.
Zonda
Racing 3
Racing 3
I should mention that when I need a new wheelset it's hard to consider anything but the Zonda's or Racing 3s. I just pick whichever I can find the cheapest from one of the UK sites.
Zonda
Racing 3
Racing 3
I should mention that when I need a new wheelset it's hard to consider anything but the Zonda's or Racing 3s. I just pick whichever I can find the cheapest from one of the UK sites.
Sounds like you are moving on possibly, but back to the Zonda vs Race 3. I went through this thought process a few years ago and ended up going with the Zonda's because I found a great deal at Merlin Cycle. Great set of wheels. I rode them 3000'ish miles before I went to disc and they were flawless. Hit a few really destructive potholes with them and they never came out of true. Great quality wheel.
I have a set of Zondas. When the freehubs need relubing, then they are noisy.
Zondas are one of the great values in cycling. Reasonably light, strong and aero. I don't think it makes any sense to pay more for clincher wheels - any more expense results in tiny, marginal gains.
if you need better wheels than these, you'll be on tubulars, where you can shed minimum 200 grams right away due to the insurmountable advantage of the tubular rim shape.
Zondas are one of the great values in cycling. Reasonably light, strong and aero. I don't think it makes any sense to pay more for clincher wheels - any more expense results in tiny, marginal gains.
if you need better wheels than these, you'll be on tubulars, where you can shed minimum 200 grams right away due to the insurmountable advantage of the tubular rim shape.
03-31-19, 08:12 PM
#33
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Exactly what model brake pads are all of you running on Zondas? I've surprisingly had near instant galling with stock Shimano 105 (5800) pads (pad model R55C4 for aluminum rims), as well as with Swissstop blue BXP pads. Next try is Kool Stop salmon Dura 2, but if those don't work and gall the rims, I'm at a loss.
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04-09-19, 07:52 PM
#35
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A Bit Of Historical Perspective...
As I remember, Campagnolo created the Fulcrum line for 2 reasons.
It allowed them to manufacture in Asia (Taiwan or China?) to take advantage of lower manufacturing costs. The technologies used, at least initially, were one step behind similar Campagnolo products.
The Fulcrum brand also allowed Campagnolo a way into professional teams that were running Shimano drivetrains. While no one wanted to see Campagnolo wheels clash with Shimano hardware, Fulcrum didn’t present that problem. It would also mean a bit more sponsorship cash for the teams.
As I remember, Campagnolo created the Fulcrum line for 2 reasons.
It allowed them to manufacture in Asia (Taiwan or China?) to take advantage of lower manufacturing costs. The technologies used, at least initially, were one step behind similar Campagnolo products.
The Fulcrum brand also allowed Campagnolo a way into professional teams that were running Shimano drivetrains. While no one wanted to see Campagnolo wheels clash with Shimano hardware, Fulcrum didn’t present that problem. It would also mean a bit more sponsorship cash for the teams.
04-09-19, 08:04 PM
#36
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Exactly what model brake pads are all of you running on Zondas? I've surprisingly had near instant galling with stock Shimano 105 (5800) pads (pad model R55C4 for aluminum rims), as well as with Swissstop blue BXP pads. Next try is Kool Stop salmon Dura 2, but if those don't work and gall the rims, I'm at a loss.
04-10-19, 04:59 AM
#37
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04-10-19, 07:48 AM
#38
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I've learned that Campagnolo does make a Shimano style road pad (basically their version of the stock Shimano road caliper pads) with a part number of BR-CA500. Hard to find though, and from the sound of it, basically the same as Shimano's pad in terms of compound.
03-08-20, 09:39 AM
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The most important question of all! Are either of you bothered by the seemingly bizarre placement of the valve stem hole on the rear, both with respect to the spokes as well as the decal on the rim, especially once considering centering the tire logos with the valve stem?
Seems like Campy could've put the valve stem hole in the center between two sets of spokes, and matched the decal to that as well - they did a nice job centering everything on the front wheel so not sure what's going on with the rear, unless this has something to do with the rim dynamic balance on the rear. Not a dealbreaker, but just seems like a bizarre design choice that I didn't notice earlier.
I'm switching between 3s and Zondas on a daily basis at this point, can't make up my mind but these seem like the logical choice at the sub-$500 price point for recreational riding.
Seems like Campy could've put the valve stem hole in the center between two sets of spokes, and matched the decal to that as well - they did a nice job centering everything on the front wheel so not sure what's going on with the rear, unless this has something to do with the rim dynamic balance on the rear. Not a dealbreaker, but just seems like a bizarre design choice that I didn't notice earlier.
I'm switching between 3s and Zondas on a daily basis at this point, can't make up my mind but these seem like the logical choice at the sub-$500 price point for recreational riding.
Nothing to do with dynamic balance, but robustness I guess. Because of G3 construction, if valve hole is placed symmetrically between group of spokes, that valve hole will be too far away from spokes and will be weak point of the rim.
03-10-20, 05:53 PM
#40
Senior Member
An engineer like me would say where else would you put the valve stem? If you look closely, the reinforced area at the spoke nearest the stem is continued to reinforce the area with the stem hole. It makes perfect sense.
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