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Try Your Hand At Black Math!

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Try Your Hand At Black Math!

Old 04-11-13, 05:26 PM
  #26  
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^^ I really see no downside to that process. ^^
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Old 04-11-13, 05:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
get a phil BB = adjustable.
as an alternative you could get an OMAS Big Sliding bottom bracket. The steel ones are reasonable on eBay.
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Old 04-11-13, 06:53 PM
  #28  
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When I was faced with this, I bought three cheapo shimano cartridge BBs- one like 103mm, one 110 mm long and one 117mm. For the $12 a pop, they've been nice to have in the partsbin anyway.

My plan was that once I settled on a size, I'd order something a little more upmarket than a shimano cartridge, but I forgot about it, and more exciting [and visible!] things came up to purchase, so it's still in there.


Originally Posted by norskagent
get a phil BB = adjustable.
Uh, how do you adjust the length of a BB spindle?

Ok, I'm kidding, I know what you mean, but I've always been one to aim for the shortest BB axle I could get to work. I don't really know why, I guess I'm weirdly OCD like that and think that somehow 2mm over almost 3' is going to make a difference as to how my knees age.
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Old 04-11-13, 07:36 PM
  #29  
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107
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Old 04-11-13, 07:51 PM
  #30  
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I ran a 111 JIS with a TA Pro-Vis. It was pretty near perfect. YMMV.
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Old 04-12-13, 12:12 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by IthaDan
When I was faced with this, I bought three cheapo shimano cartridge BBs- one like 103mm, one 110 mm long and one 117mm. For the $12 a pop, they've been nice to have in the partsbin anyway.... ...Uh, how do you adjust the length of a BB spindle?
Ok, I'm kidding, I know what you mean, but I've always been one to aim for the shortest BB axle I could get to work. I don't really know why, I guess I'm weirdly OCD like that and think that somehow 2mm over almost 3' is going to make a difference as to how my knees age.

It's almost painful having to home-in on the optimum bb length/offset without having a few cartridge bb's at hand.
Even discarded, crunchy bb cartridges can suffice for figuring out the best fit with a safe minimum of chainring/chainstay clearance.
The shorter ones, less than 116mm (but also some longer than that) are symmetrical, simplifying the calculations.

I prefer using the shortest bb possible so that the pedal is harder to "dig" on the pavement in corners, and I prefer shorter crankarms, for this and other reasons.

Last edited by dddd; 04-12-13 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 04-12-13, 04:23 AM
  #32  
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I don't think finding the shortest workable axle is the exercise here, it's more like finding the clean chainline since this is a SS conversion. You may catch a pedal once in a blue moon but a sucky chainline with with you always.
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Old 04-12-13, 07:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Velognome
I don't think finding the shortest workable axle is the exercise here, it's more like finding the clean chainline since this is a SS conversion.
Yes.

Having several cheap cartridge BBs would be nice for these kinds of things. That said, I don't like the idea of repeatedly installing and removing nice, vintage, aluminum cranks.

Eventually I'd like to develop some sort of sixth sense regarding spindle selection. Kind of like putting a steak on the grill, grabbing a beer and then mid-conversation with someone just pushing them out of the way and pulling that steak off the grill because some bell inside me just rang and said "mid-rare. . . GO!". I think I'm a ways off from that, though.

Originally Posted by nlerner
I'd roll the dice with a 108mm spindle and have a couple of 1mm spacers on hand.
Originally Posted by fender1
107
Alright. I had a 110mm in the cart, but I'm going to go with the 107mm because you say so (no 108mm available). If it turns out the 110mm was best I'm going to punch nlerner in the shoulder and give fender1 an Indian arm burn.
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Old 04-12-13, 08:07 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
Alright. I had a 110mm in the cart, but I'm going to go with the 107mm because you say so (no 108mm available). If it turns out the 110mm was best I'm going to punch nlerner in the shoulder and give fender1 an Indian arm burn.
Take video.
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Old 04-12-13, 08:09 AM
  #35  
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A Miche Primato track bottom bracket worked for me. It has the same adjustability as Phil, but for a small fraction of the cost. The taper is ISO. My crank is a T.A., but I think the spindle length requirement is the same.
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Old 04-12-13, 08:12 AM
  #36  
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Old 04-12-13, 09:23 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
Alright. I had a 110mm in the cart, but I'm going to go with the 107mm because you say so (no 108mm available). If it turns out the 110mm was best I'm going to punch nlerner in the shoulder and give fender1 an Indian arm burn.
What gives? No Lagers, Triples or Scotch? Just sayin...make sure you have the proper tools on hand before you begin
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Old 04-15-13, 02:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

Eventually I'd like to develop some sort of sixth sense regarding spindle selection.
wouldn't we all
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Old 04-15-13, 11:49 PM
  #39  
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I've got a similar problem. I want to set up a Stronglight 93 with a single front chain ring, but with the polished front trouser guard/chain guard, as well. In other words, the 45 tooth chain ring would be in the inner chain ring position. The rear hub, a Sturmey Archer Sprinter Elite 5 Speed, requires a 47 mm chain line (from the center of the seat tube). This was based on measuring from the dropout inner surface to the optimal cog position. I don't have the $$ to be buying multiple spindles to try out! If I were to use a JIS taper BB, what would the correct spindle length be? Black Math hurts my head!
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Old 04-16-13, 05:01 AM
  #40  
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Math? ....I don't know how much a whole lotta nines is.
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Old 04-16-13, 06:35 AM
  #41  
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It's a heap of a mess is what it is
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Old 04-16-13, 06:54 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by elcraft
I've got a similar problem. I want to set up a Stronglight 93 with a single front chain ring, but with the polished front trouser guard/chain guard, as well. In other words, the 45 tooth chain ring would be in the inner chain ring position. The rear hub, a Sturmey Archer Sprinter Elite 5 Speed, requires a 47 mm chain line (from the center of the seat tube). This was based on measuring from the dropout inner surface to the optimal cog position. I don't have the $$ to be buying multiple spindles to try out! If I were to use a JIS taper BB, what would the correct spindle length be? Black Math hurts my head!
I have a 107mm JIS cartridge BB with a Stronglight 93 and 45t chainring on the outside position. You can't go narrower than that or the inner chain ring shelf will rub the chain stay. But, that's a threadless BB and may be slightly different. Black math, indeed.
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Old 04-16-13, 08:47 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
Here's what I'm working with.
  • 120mm spaced frame
  • Stronglight 49d crank arms with single 48t 3/32" ring
  • Fixed/fixed hub with 1/8" cogs
  • 68mm English BB shell
  • 1/8" chain

I'm going to buy a JIS taper, symmetrical cartridge BB. Now, class, what length spindle would you choose?
The one that fits the best!
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Old 04-16-13, 09:19 PM
  #44  
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OK then buy an adjustable BB with an offset spindle then you have about 10mm to play with

Originally Posted by elcraft
I've got a similar problem. I want to set up a Stronglight 93 with a single front chain ring, but with the polished front trouser guard/chain guard, as well. In other words, the 45 tooth chain ring would be in the inner chain ring position. The rear hub, a Sturmey Archer Sprinter Elite 5 Speed, requires a 47 mm chain line (from the center of the seat tube). This was based on measuring from the dropout inner surface to the optimal cog position. I don't have the $$ to be buying multiple spindles to try out! If I were to use a JIS taper BB, what would the correct spindle length be? Black Math hurts my head!
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