MauriceMoss

Hi Everyone,

I've been visiting BF for a few months now, but this is my first time posting. This is a great forum (especially C&V) and I love learning from experiences you all share here. Thanks!

I'm relatively new to bike repair and restoration of classic bikes. I'm currently trying to restore a 1982 Bridgestone Antares L.D.T, and ran into a bit of a bottom bracket problem.
The spindle shows some pitting on the races but there is also some galling on the external threads (the galling is all on the non-drive side).




I understand that at this point I could:

- Replace retainers with loose bearings and maybe eke out a few more miles with current setup (although I'm concerned about the galled threads). Cheap.
- Get a new spindle, although from what I've read so far these spindles don't seem to be of very good quality. Relatively cheap.
- Upgrade to a cartridge bottom bracket (such as Shimano UN55, IRD QB-55/75, VO Grand Cru, possibly others). The problem here is the spindle length; UN55 goes up to 127mm, IRD QB75 up to 127.5mm (although I can't find any stores with that size in stock). Relatively less cheap.

Assuming that this is a bike I'll be riding for a while (hopefully), which approach would you recommend?

I checked out the Sheldon Brown bottom bracket reference page, but the measurements I'm getting do not quite match the figures in the table. They do match the dimensions I'm finding for replacement 3T spindles (like the Pyramid one from Niagara). According to Sheldon, the symmetric equivalent for a 3T spindle would be 130mm. Since in my case the spindle is less asymmetrical than what's in the table, would a shorter (i.e. 127mm/127.5mm) spindle cartridge BB be OK, maybe even without a spacer?

Specs:

Rear dropout: 126.85mm
Bottom Bracket: English/1.370x24/68mm JIS
BB Spindle: 3T 126mm/35mm x 52mm x 39mm
Crankset: Sugino Super Maxy Triple 50/46/32
Freewheel: Suntour Perfect 5sp

Velocivixen

@MauriceMoss- Welcome! I'm sure some of the more experienced members will chime in, but I'll just mention that you may be able to get what you want from a bike co-op or I've heard them referred to as "Bicycle Kitchens". I know I've found some really esoteric small parts and such by scouring my co-ops here in Portland.

I dont know if your bike is very valuable, but I know if it were me, I might go loose ball bearings for awhile until I decide whether I really want to spend more. I have a UN55 on one bike and a Velo Orange Grand Cru on my French bike and they both seem to be doing their job, so you'll do fine if you choose either of those.

I hope others will respond to offer more insight. Keep us posted as to what you decide and definitely post pictures.

dddd

If I were in this situation, I would immediately do a test-fit with a 127 symmetric bb, then examine the chainstay/chainring clearance and sight down the side of the (clean) chainrings to see if the chainset is on-center with the freewheel.
I never use the smallest cogs when using the small chainring, so I would aim to bias the chainset (crankset) rings a tiny bit inward from the center of the freewheel.

Once I figured out where the symmetric127mm bb was trying to position the chainrings, it would then only be a matter of adding the needed thickness of spacer (if any) under the flange on the driveside of the UN55 bb.

I've had some of these cheaper-looking cup/cone bottom brackets give me years and years of trouble-free service, but it's never quite been something that I can count on. The UN55 and similar units have been overall more trouble-free, lasting seemingly forever.

onespeedbiker

Using a 127mm BB with leave the drive side 1.5 mm short on the drive side; it may work there will probably be usses to overcome. If I were you I would stay with the same setup; pick up a new cups and spindle here; Robot Check. Yes they are cheap, but they hold up as well and most more expensive BB, they just don't look as nice.

oddjob2

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BB-UN2...s=shimano+un26

Simple, cheap solution. Standard equipment on mid-level Trek FX. I use these frequently with no issues.

mrmw

If you want to ride the bike with dispatch, the above solution is optimal.

If you want to restore and ride the bike, make the rounds of co-ops. Bring some parts to donate. You will for sure find good Sugino cups, and a high probability of finding good 3T spindles. For bearings, use new loose Grade 25 bearings.

jonwvara 

Welcome! I think the above suggestion is right on. I would only add that if you can't find a 3T spindle (though that shouldn't be a problem; they're pretty common), you might turn one up by posting in the "ISO and For Trade" thread. It's a trade-only thread--be awared that the moderators will scold you if you mention exchanging anything for $.

MauriceMoss

Thanks everyone for your tips and ideas!

@Velocivixen You bring up a very good point about going the cheapest route until I decide to invest more/keep the bike. I've really only ridden the bike a little bit (so at least I know the fit is good), but it's totally possible it just may not work out in the end.

@dddd I have a feeling I might end up with something like the UN55 in the end, after I ride for a bit with the cup & cone setup. As for setting up a cartridge BB and adjusting the distances - as long as the chainrings clear the frame and the chain goes through the full range of gears smoothly, are the small disances (2 ro 3 mm) of the position of the cranks be detected when pedaling?

@oddjob2 I saw these when I was looking at UN55 but didn't know if they were any good. Good to hear they are at least decent (plus cheaper and have a longer spindle to boot!).

@mrmw I've read on here about co-ops but have yet to stop by one in my area (I'm sure there are quite a few). Good to know the parts I'm looking for not uncommon. I did get loose bearing a bit ago (grade 25, using only bearings from the same batch - learned that on here ).

@jonwvara I'm lookin through the ISO and For Trade thread right now. Hopefully I find something. Thanks for the tip!