Chain slips gear bad on hard pedal
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chain slips gear bad on hard pedal
Ok Have lot to explain here.
I have a relatively new ( a year with minimal use ) set up IE : Front chain ring , rear 11 speed Edco Monoblock , new rear deraillieur , OSPS , new chain. .
Everything has worked beautiful until a couple things recently. 1. I took apart the OSPS to look at ceramic bearings put back together and everything smooth. But before that i had brought wheel to be trued. I noticed freehub was not spinning free as it was . When I went back to shop and asked if they pulled the freehub they said no .. When I got home I pulled it and cleaned and put it back and it seemed to spin easier ..
The problem I am encountering : When I jam on the pedals the chain slips and catches somewhere different. The first time it happened I almost went down hard because of the slip, it completely freaked me out . I have tried adjusting the adjustments , I have tightened and loosened the freewheel , tried adjusting barrel screw , looked if derrailiuer post was bent , doesn't appear to be . Now I learned something new last weeks which is a clue for someone ( but not me , lol ) which is on about the TOP 4 gears it does not slip ever only when shifting past that point . Now also I can put it a smaller cog and pedal normal pressure and it stays but when add pressure it jumps crazy.
Anyone .....?
Thank you kindly.
I have a relatively new ( a year with minimal use ) set up IE : Front chain ring , rear 11 speed Edco Monoblock , new rear deraillieur , OSPS , new chain. .
Everything has worked beautiful until a couple things recently. 1. I took apart the OSPS to look at ceramic bearings put back together and everything smooth. But before that i had brought wheel to be trued. I noticed freehub was not spinning free as it was . When I went back to shop and asked if they pulled the freehub they said no .. When I got home I pulled it and cleaned and put it back and it seemed to spin easier ..
The problem I am encountering : When I jam on the pedals the chain slips and catches somewhere different. The first time it happened I almost went down hard because of the slip, it completely freaked me out . I have tried adjusting the adjustments , I have tightened and loosened the freewheel , tried adjusting barrel screw , looked if derrailiuer post was bent , doesn't appear to be . Now I learned something new last weeks which is a clue for someone ( but not me , lol ) which is on about the TOP 4 gears it does not slip ever only when shifting past that point . Now also I can put it a smaller cog and pedal normal pressure and it stays but when add pressure it jumps crazy.
Anyone .....?
Thank you kindly.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times
in
104 Posts
Possibly when the freehub was replaced one or more of the pawls/springs got mis-positioned and allows the freehub to slip.
Best you remove free hub and examine for this or any damage or out of place/missing parts (ie pawls or springs).
Also eyeball the ratchet steps in the wheel when you remove the freehub.
Best you remove free hub and examine for this or any damage or out of place/missing parts (ie pawls or springs).
Also eyeball the ratchet steps in the wheel when you remove the freehub.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Possibly when the freehub was replaced one or more of the pawls/springs got mis-positioned and allows the freehub to slip.
Best you remove free hub and examine for this or any damage or out of place/missing parts (ie pawls or springs).
Also eyeball the ratchet steps in the wheel when you remove the freehub.
Best you remove free hub and examine for this or any damage or out of place/missing parts (ie pawls or springs).
Also eyeball the ratchet steps in the wheel when you remove the freehub.
#5
Senior Member
If the chain is new, but the sprockets are old, you may have nothing but ordinary new chain skip. It occurs usually on only one or two of the most used sprockets. Put a old chain on and it will probably work fine.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
People are responding without reading here....
1. Done plently of indexing tests.
2. All is new components . Well except that freehub.
1. Done plently of indexing tests.
2. All is new components . Well except that freehub.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Zang's Spur, CO
Posts: 9,083
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3375 Post(s)
Liked 5,512 Times
in
2,855 Posts
It may be that people do not know that "rear 11 speed Edco Monoblock" is a cassette.
I did not until I googled it.
I did not until I googled it.
#9
Occam's Rotor
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
Likes For Cyclist0108:
#10
Occam's Rotor
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
#11
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,102
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3427 Post(s)
Liked 3,561 Times
in
1,790 Posts
9 times out of 10, a skipping chain under load with a new chain is caused by a worn cog. You probably used the lower gears more often, so those are the ones that are worn. Odds are good that replacing the cassette will solve the problem.
#13
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,102
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3427 Post(s)
Liked 3,561 Times
in
1,790 Posts
I read what you wrote, which was "relatively new" components and a "new chain". Skipping then catching under hard load with a new chain is almost always a cog wear problem.
When a chain is worn, it doesn't take long to ruin your cogs. Did you check the "stretch" of the old chain before you disposed of it?
When a chain is worn, it doesn't take long to ruin your cogs. Did you check the "stretch" of the old chain before you disposed of it?
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What you are suggesting I ran in to many years ago , this is different.
I have good quality chain, a new chromemoly edco monoblock cassette , it wont wear out in 10 years.
My issue only happens after the 4th gear.,
I have good quality chain, a new chromemoly edco monoblock cassette , it wont wear out in 10 years.
My issue only happens after the 4th gear.,
#15
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Oh brother . I see welp I tried looking for honest help , gave all I know clear as day info and now called an ******* . Wow !
#18
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,102
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3427 Post(s)
Liked 3,561 Times
in
1,790 Posts
Throw a new cassette on there (pick a cheap one). If it doesn't skip under load, you have your answer: your fancy cassette is toast.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I dont know how to say or write any clearer about the issue then I already have ( where in the world are you getting your information, about my issue ,apparently not from me and going on and on repetitively about nothing to do with what I initially needed help with ? ) There is no old chain , no old cassette , its all installed at same time. My " fancy " cassette as you called it is one piece block carved out of chromemoly . That creates a super strong metal cassette . That is why mountain and bmx bikes were made out of it . My issue DID happen directly after wheel truing done at a shop , and took apart the OSPS and put back. .
#20
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
What does OSPS stand for?
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Brentwood WLA
Posts: 326
Bikes: 50/34, 11-40, 11 Speed
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 142 Post(s)
Liked 73 Times
in
52 Posts
It is the number one most common curse found in all online forums.
As to the OP, even with all relatively new components, (which you have made clear), RD hanger bent or indexing is off for some reason are two possibilities.
As to the OP, even with all relatively new components, (which you have made clear), RD hanger bent or indexing is off for some reason are two possibilities.
#23
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,102
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3427 Post(s)
Liked 3,561 Times
in
1,790 Posts
There is essentially only one reason why a chain works fine under light load but skips in the driven cog under heavy load, and that is a pitch mismatch between the chain and the cog. This is not rocket science.
Terry Morse, BSME/MSME
#24
Señor Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,066
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 649 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
215 Posts
English may not be OP's first language. If it is, he has no excuse. He did not at all write clearly what he had. I also read that he had a 'relatively new EDCO monoblock' and 'new chain'.
Also, he is ignorant about how cogs wear, and material science in general, and felt insulted that others don't share his ignorance.
Also, he is ignorant about how cogs wear, and material science in general, and felt insulted that others don't share his ignorance.
#25
Full Member
To the OP: It is always difficult to interpret other's descriptions accurately. For instance, you tend to use the terms freewheel and freehub interchangeably and I am assuming you have a freehub. From what I get, I would certainly want the hanger alignment checked with the correct tool. It is very difficult to eyeball hanger alignment and a slight misalignment could cause symptoms similar to what is described. It might be telling to know if adjusting cable tension changed which cogs were involved or if you at any time experienced ghost/auto shifting.
I once destroyed a hanger and derailleur on a road bike(long cage 105) while on a tour. The only long cage derailleur the LBS had was a Deore. After finishing the rebuild they could not get the shifting right: ghost shifts and slips as the chain briefly rode between cogs. At home I had plenty of time to tinker and found that I needed to back the B screw all the way out to get consistent shifts in both directions. When your LBS had the wheel off, could they have made a B screw adjustment? In my case, the LBS made the B screw adjustment as they thought they should but it didn't work.
I really doubt that a freehub body would produce the symptoms you describe but "whatever turns you on just tickles me to death". Shimano (my assumption) freehubs are relatively cheap and replacement would essentially be no harm no foul.
In many similar vexing situations, I have found it best to start from the beginning. At a minimum, that would include checking hanger alignment, B screw adjustment, high and low limits, cable attachment (inadvertent, alternate attachment) and cable tension.
Also, if your problem started immediately after the work by the LBS I think they owe you a check. Most would be glad to do it. Good luck.
I once destroyed a hanger and derailleur on a road bike(long cage 105) while on a tour. The only long cage derailleur the LBS had was a Deore. After finishing the rebuild they could not get the shifting right: ghost shifts and slips as the chain briefly rode between cogs. At home I had plenty of time to tinker and found that I needed to back the B screw all the way out to get consistent shifts in both directions. When your LBS had the wheel off, could they have made a B screw adjustment? In my case, the LBS made the B screw adjustment as they thought they should but it didn't work.
I really doubt that a freehub body would produce the symptoms you describe but "whatever turns you on just tickles me to death". Shimano (my assumption) freehubs are relatively cheap and replacement would essentially be no harm no foul.
In many similar vexing situations, I have found it best to start from the beginning. At a minimum, that would include checking hanger alignment, B screw adjustment, high and low limits, cable attachment (inadvertent, alternate attachment) and cable tension.
Also, if your problem started immediately after the work by the LBS I think they owe you a check. Most would be glad to do it. Good luck.