enfilade

I'm considering getting one when I have the money (always the biggest obstacle with cycling upgrades!). Anyway I'm looking for some opinions on them first, preferably if you've used both internal gears and a derailleur system, but it doesn't matter if not. I don't know a great deal about them, but they seem to have many benefits. Why are they so rarely used by the big names in cycling?

LarDasse74

Internal gear hubs do have slightly more drag than a well maintained derailleur system. This means that if two riders are equally strong, the rider on a derailleur equipped bike will have a slight advantage. IGHs are also generally heavier than a high end derailleur setup, even taking into account the removal of derailleurs, shorter chain, one shifter, etc.

Also, the primary advantage of IGH systems (in my opinion) is increased reliability and decreased maintenance. Pro cyclists generally have a mechanic and perfectly maintained bikes, so this advnatage is less. In fact, if there is a problem with the rear wheel (a flat, for instance) it is actually more difficult to fix than the same problem on a derailleur bike.

My main bike has an Alfine IGh and I love almost never having to work on it. I dread getting a flat tire, though.

thorsteno

The flat change is easier with a QR Rohloff. I have changed a few with no trouble. Now the full fender is another story to deal with. I just flip the bike over in the grass.

Re-Cycle

Most days I commute on a modern 3 speed SA hub laced to 700c touring rims with 32c tires.

enfilade

Is the added drag noticeable to you? I'm a recreational rider so I'm not too interested in speed and distance covered, but if it feels as if I'm going slower I'd be tempted to stick with the derailleur setup.

Also, I live in a hilly area (Peak District in the UK) so I've got challenging climbs on most of the rides I do. At the moment I have a Kona MTB with a Shimano Deore drivetrain. I think my easiest gear is 22 X 32, but I'm really a noob when it comes to gearing. If I get an IGH though, I'll have to make sure it has an easy gear like the Kona. What are they like on your Alfine, is it adequate on the steep climbs?

enfilade

Did that come with the bike or was it fitted later? I don't think I could change a hub on my own.

bikefreakvinnie

[QUOTE
Also, I live in a hilly area (Peak District in the UK) so I've got challenging climbs on most of the rides I do. At the moment I have a Kona MTB with a Shimano Deore drivetrain. I think my easiest gear is 22 X 32, but I'm really a noob when it comes to gearing. If I get an IGH though, I'll have to make sure it has an easy gear like the Kona. What are they like on your Alfine, is it adequate on the steep climbs?[/QUOTE]

I've had a 3 Speed Sturmey Archer on a number of bikes over the years and don't recommend the range of it for a hilly area (and I've made the easiest gear easier by reducing the chainset cog). I don't have any experience with any other internal gear makes! I've had no issues with them aside from that -wheel changing and tuning gears are different but grand!..

JohnDThompson 

I commute on my 1972 Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub. Works fine for me, but I'm not trying to win any races.

tatfiend 

The only current hub with close to an MTB drivetrain range is the Rohloff with a range of 526% low to high. If you need the 22-32 gear on your current drivetrain then other IGH units do not have the range to give a reasonable high gear. The 8 and 9 speed hubs have ranges of about 305% to 350%. The new NuVinci N360 has a range of 360% and the new Shimano 11 speed will be about 406% IIRC.

With your current drivetrain and 26" wheels your low is about 18 gear inches. A 55 gear inch high, as the Shimano 8 speed would give you, is way too low for most riders. Normal high on most derailleur drivetrain bikes is in the 100+ gear inches range just as a comparison.

pwdeegan

i just finished my Rohloff build after thinking about IGHs for the better part of two years, and i truly believe it's the best thing to happen to a bicycle since two wheels. i'd've done it sooner if i had had the cash earlier. my bike weighs a little more now (1.5# more?), my personal gauge of efficiency is: there is no meaningful difference, and my happiness quotient is about as high as it's been since i can remember. looks cool, too: no corn-cob or derailleur sack on my bike's ass any more.

Sixty Fiver

From a mechanical point of view many IGH hubs are more efficient than all but the very best and precisely tuned derailleur equipped bikes but rider efficiency is impacted by limited gearing ranges and wider steps between the gears of an IGH hub.

They are also heavier which has an effect on elite riders who are looking to shave seconds off their riding times.

I currently run an SA 3 speed on a 1954 Raleigh Sports and have it set up with a lower range to make it a good all rounder... there are few hubs better than an SA AW if you are looking for reliability and simplicity as they almost never fail and will run for for 10's of thousands of miles with nothing more than regular lubrication to the hub.

enfilade

Right I'll save for a Rohloff Speedhub then, though it may take a year or so if they're going for �800, but I'd rather get one with a bigger range. My knees aren't in great condition at the minute so the last thing I need is fewer gears on the hills.

SlimAgainSoon

I've got an Ultegra set up on one bike and an Alfine IGH hub on the other ... I really dig that internal.

I've never felt any additional drag. Maybe it exists, but I can't feel it.

Works great.

kamtsa

You may want to look into SRAM DualDrive (they come in models, 3x8 and 3x9). They have a wider gear range than most bikes.

They also come stock with some folders such as this one https://dahon.com/bikes/2010/mu-p24 or https://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk/models/TSR27.html if you prefer expensive British bikes ;-)

I am using DD for 18 months now and am very happy with it.

Kam

Bianchigirll 

I built a IGH bike last summer with a Nexus 8 (the Rohloff was too pricey) and I think it is great. however with drop bars you do get limited shifter choice. one rather funny thing is, with a barend the shifting is backwards!! the lever all the way down is the easiest gear so shifting is really a suprise sometimes

Drakonchik

Yes, the only STI-style shifter choice to use the Alfine with drop bars is the truly horrible Versa shifter, which I own and operate. Wish I had time to clearly describe all the Versa shifters' design faults, but it would take a 250+ word essay.

Sixty Fiver

Shimano just came out with an 11 speed IGH that will be selling in the $400.00 range.

LarDasse74

Shifting is also 'backwards' with the Alfine 8 speed Rapidfire+ shifter... On most derailleur equipped bikes pushing the thumb lever gives you an easier gear but Alfine gest a harder one.

My MTb had Rapidrise, though, and neither of these systems took much getting used to.

Thank you! You just convinced me to get a JTek bar end shifter!

Also, please write a 500 word essay on why the Versa shifter is so bad. Post it on Bikeforums, single spaced on a white background. I will give you a mark out of 100.

Spelling counts.

Roll-Monroe-Co

I have this vague memory that I priced the combination of a Schlumpf two-speed IG bottom bracket with Nexus 8 in the back versus Rolhoff, and the former was cheaper and gave a greater range (though does the Schlumpf still require special mitering of the BB?)

JoeKahno

Here in the Philippines, model specific replacement parts or even something that can be adapted to fit is a total crapshoot. Rather than buying local built and over paying for iffy QC I shopped Japan surplus and bought a Bridgestone Albelt with a Shimano Nexus Inter 3 hub. My last bike was a generic 18spd MTB and I was usually in one of three gear ranges. When I started looking to change the belt ratio on the Albelt I picked up another Bridgestone with chain drive on the same hub to do trial and error before replacing expensive parts.

While the older Shimano 3 speeds have a reputation for being fragile the Nexus series seems to have corrected that. Sturmey Archer has a reputation for being more repairable. They get cranky when in need of cleaning and adjustment but can usually be brought back to full operation with a little work. Shimano on the other hand seems to be a deal where the first noticeable problem is an indication that you used to own a working hub.

What that doesn't tell me is what sort of service life I can expect from an Inter 3 with periodic cleaning and lube. Can anyone here speak from experience? I'm on the high side of sixty and do 50-75 miles a week. Will I live long enough to wear one out?

JoeKahno

From what I've seen a lot of cycling fads seem to trickle down from competition. This isn't where an IGH shines. The island I live on is reasonably flat. Three ranges can cover the speed between too slow to remain upright and as fast as I'm willing to move in local traffic, without excessively wide gaps. As set up from the factory both of my bikes have a top gear that is essentially useless without a downhill or tailwind. I spend much more time wishing I had a lower low than riding in high. Once I correct that problem I'll have a low maintenance reasonably weather tight drive train that suits my environment and riding style.

If that isn't enough to get me into the cool kids club... well... that's too bad.

3alarmer 

...I've owned and maintained a number of them, going all the way back to my first bicycle as a kid, with a SA AW hub (which was a common item back in the 50's and 60's). AS stated so well by others, unless you spend an insane amount of money on one, it's difficult to achieve the same range of gearing you can with a relatively cheap and simple derailleur system.

There is a good website you can read while you are saving your money for a Rohlofff wheel, Hubstripping. It reviews a number of the ones commonly available today, and also some of the historical greats. You can pick up a lot of knowledge over there. My personal choice is not to ride on anything I can't fix myself, so that lets out Rohloff because they don't want you tinkering with them...it voids the warranty. People have been stripping and rebuilding Sturmy Arccher AW's for longer than I've been riding a bicycle. It's a pretty straightforward process. You can lower the overall gearing on one of those by installing a larger 24 tooth cog (available online.)

Gresp15C

I've been riding SA AW hubs for a couple of decades. Right now my dirty commuter / shopping bike has one. I build new wheels on old hubs, so I can enjoy modern rims and tires.

In my view, derailleurs make sense for more than 3 gears, because you can add an arbitrary number of gears without an exponential increase in complexity. And because of the wide spacing, you have to be OK with always riding in the wrong gear. I find it to be acceptable unless I'm riding with other people and trying to match to the speed of the group. As a result, my "road" bike has a derailleur.

dedhed

OP hasn't been active since 11/2010 like this thread.

I suspect they either did/didn't get an IGH by now.

3alarmer 

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