Tektro brakes and FSA crank as good as Ultegra or Dura Ace
#26
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I just wish Shimano would go back to clear anodizing and organic forms without arbitrary styling wank in them, at least on Dura-Ace...
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches.9000 7900 broke that.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
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Last edited by Kimmo; 07-08-19 at 05:18 PM.
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#27
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I just wish Shimano would go back to clear anodizing and organic forms without arbitrary styling wank in them, at least on Dura-Ace...
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches. 9000 broke that.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches. 9000 broke that.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
#28
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re: FSA vs. Shimano. Please pardon my ignorance as I'm just getting into cycling after a 30 year absence.
I just bought a Cannondale Supersix Evo Disc Ultegra Di2 2018 on clearance (new). It comes with, according to Cannondale's site "Cannondale Si, BB30a, w/ FSA Rings, 52/36". It's been tuned by my LBS. The back shifts like a dream. The front shifts well most of the time, but on rare occasions it does hiccup and fail to catch. Not regular enough for me to think it's an alignment problem, just rare enough to be annoying for a the cost of the bike.
So if I'm reading this thread correctly, it seems most agree that Shimano's Ultegra crank is superior to FSA and would reduce this issue? If so then I'm thinking of buying the FC-R8000.
Since I'm a shorter rider (5'7" with 30" inseam) I'm thinking of also going to a more compact 50/34 (which matches what I have on my Trek FX S6) and maybe a shorter crankarm length of 170mm or 165mm (based on my height/inseam and some web research).
Thoughts and advice welcome!
I just bought a Cannondale Supersix Evo Disc Ultegra Di2 2018 on clearance (new). It comes with, according to Cannondale's site "Cannondale Si, BB30a, w/ FSA Rings, 52/36". It's been tuned by my LBS. The back shifts like a dream. The front shifts well most of the time, but on rare occasions it does hiccup and fail to catch. Not regular enough for me to think it's an alignment problem, just rare enough to be annoying for a the cost of the bike.
So if I'm reading this thread correctly, it seems most agree that Shimano's Ultegra crank is superior to FSA and would reduce this issue? If so then I'm thinking of buying the FC-R8000.
Since I'm a shorter rider (5'7" with 30" inseam) I'm thinking of also going to a more compact 50/34 (which matches what I have on my Trek FX S6) and maybe a shorter crankarm length of 170mm or 165mm (based on my height/inseam and some web research).
Thoughts and advice welcome!
#29
Senior Member
Curious to hear answers to the above from those more learned than I. My theory would be that the front shifting issue is more about derailleur adjustment.
#30
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And it's a Di2 so theoretically once it's dialed in it should be good to go (again, theoretically).
#31
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Well he said he just got the bike and there is going to be that initial cable stretch...I'm guessing just a cable tension adjustment which can be done by the barrel adjusters usually.
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I just wish Shimano would go back to clear anodizing and organic forms without arbitrary styling wank in them, at least on Dura-Ace...
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches. 9000 broke that.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
I have a bike that's mostly 7700, but with 7800 cranks and a 7400 rear brake, and it pretty much matches. 9000 broke that.
Style is timeless, fashion dates.
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Hopefully the next DA crankset looks better.
#36
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According to the videos I've seen online (like this one from GCN: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5EEd7eRUFY at the 3 minute mark) there is no microadjust for the front derailleur on a Di2 (unlike the RD). I've checked alignment, clearance and limit screws per their recommendation and everything check out. I'll mention it to my LBS to see if they have other thoughts.
Well you still need a chain. So can't be chain wear since it's a new bike...could be improper chain length however. Does it happen only on a specific gear? Since it happens only every so often only is it possible you are not in the optimal gear to make a shift? Are you pedaling fast enough...does it only happen when you change gears going say, up a hill? I'm sure there is some kind of calibration procedure for this Di2 RD gizmo as well but not sure. Any way good luck sucks that you have to deal with this on a nice new bike.
I'm using Ultegra 6500 shifters from 2005...probably the original set on my 2005 litespeed..and it has an Ultegra 6700 crank with a sram cassette. These are 14 year old shifters. Never misses a shift. I've tested a fully equipped bike with r8000 shifters. Shifts the same as my 6500 shifters lol.
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Friends don't let friends ride tektro.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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#38
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My Tektro 539s work fine for the money and are a good budget option for frames designed for med reach brakes w larger tires BUT they stop nowhere near as good as my Ultegra 6800 brakes. I can think of a couple of instances where I had a ped or tow truck suddenly pull across my path when I wouldn't have been so lucky and stopped on a dime without incident had I been riding my Tektros.
#40
Senior Member
Quick update, my LBS did a few adjustments on the FD and it seems to be much better. Still had them price out a new Ultegra crankset 50/34; 170mm with a new bottom bracket (required, different size than what is on the bike right now) and it came out to about $400 with installation (including they'd have to shorten the chain).
Does anyone have experiences they want to share about buying second-hand? Because the manager (who has been great to me during the whole purchase process including always giving me a discount on items even well after I've purchased the bike) also said if I was interested, he had some used SRAM carbon fiber cranks (he said he had them 8 months) for about $100 and I could pair them up with some SRAM chainrings and save money...but I've never bought used bike parts before. Only the CF cranks would be used, the chainrings would be new, and I wouldn't need a new BB since they use the same as what came with the bike.
Should I just stand pat with the all new Ultegra?
Does anyone have experiences they want to share about buying second-hand? Because the manager (who has been great to me during the whole purchase process including always giving me a discount on items even well after I've purchased the bike) also said if I was interested, he had some used SRAM carbon fiber cranks (he said he had them 8 months) for about $100 and I could pair them up with some SRAM chainrings and save money...but I've never bought used bike parts before. Only the CF cranks would be used, the chainrings would be new, and I wouldn't need a new BB since they use the same as what came with the bike.
Should I just stand pat with the all new Ultegra?
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You may find this adequate or not - I was happy with my FSA 9/10 speed compatible carbon pro 50/34 compact double paired with a Campagnolo CT derailleur, but not the SLK/SLK-Light triples which are finicky to get quick shifts without occasionally dumping the chain off the big ring when using a Campagnolo 10 speed Record Triple derailleur going from a 39T middle to 50T large ring.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-10-19 at 04:18 PM.
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