GRX vs. Ultegra
#51
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only the di2 has the new pivot, grx mechanical is exactly the same as ultraga but with different hood, in fact you can install the grx hood on ultraga mechanical. the lever does have a grippier finish though
#52
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Hijacking this thread because I have a similar question, with a bit of a twist. The 2x GRX 810 that I ordered isn't going to be available until March. But the bike supplier said they could put Ultegra groupset on it with the grx rear cassette.
My only hesitation is the gear ratio. From what you can put together do you think I would still have an easy gear on the ultegra(with the different rear cassette) in case I am schleping gear up a mountain road? From time to time I will be doing bikepacking with gear. Overall I'll be riding 80% roads and 20% off road. Any thoughts will be well appreciated!
My only hesitation is the gear ratio. From what you can put together do you think I would still have an easy gear on the ultegra(with the different rear cassette) in case I am schleping gear up a mountain road? From time to time I will be doing bikepacking with gear. Overall I'll be riding 80% roads and 20% off road. Any thoughts will be well appreciated!
Having said all that, if you want the GRX levers, crank, and derailleurs...maybe best to wait a few months to build it that way unless you were really on the fence between Ultegra or GRX for a road bike that goes off-road sometimes.
#55
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The GRX 810 is a 2x rear derailleur with 40t of total capacity and handles a large cog of 34 officially(and can handle a little larger unofficially, like 36t for sure).
The GEX 812 is a 1x rear derailleur with 31t of capacity and handles a large cog of 42t officially(and could handle a little larger unofficially).
A 50/34 cassette with an 11-40 cassette gives you a 45 tooth capacity which is well above either official RD capacities. Crazier things have worked though, so maybe this will too with the 810 RD. I've seen posts about making it work by using a longer b screw and/or a goatlink.
...or just buy a 46/30 crankset and an 11-36 cassette. Using a 40mm tire...
50/34 with 11-40 gives you 126 gear inches down to 23.50 gear inches.
46/30 with 11-36 gives you 115.5 gear inches down to 23 gear inches.
So 46/30 with 11-36 is lighter, has a slightly lower bailout gear, and still has plenty of top end speed since you are moving at 27.5mph at 80rpm.
#56
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A 50/34 cassette with an 11-40 cassette gives you a 45 tooth capacity which is well above either official RD capacities. Crazier things have worked though, so maybe this will too with the 810 RD. I've seen posts about making it work by using a longer b screw and/or a goatlink.
I agree with you though that a 46/30 crank is going to be a much better option if he doesn't know for sure what gearing will be needed, and will be hauling luggage too.
#57
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Before I switched from a 50/34T crankset to a 46/30T, I did a quick calculation. Assuming your cassette's highest gear is 11T, you lose exactly 1 gear off the high end. Unless you spend a lot of time in the 50T/11T combo, you will never miss it (and if you are spending a lot of time in that combo, you should be gearing up, not down).
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Thank you all! I was ideally going to get the GRX RX810 groupset. It comes with a 48/31 crankset, not 46/30. Is there a noticeable difference between the 48x/31 crankset and 46x30?
#59
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Mess around with this website. enter your tire size(or closest avail) and enter the gear ranges you are considering. You will see how much different 31t is from 30t and 48t is different from 46t.
On the left you can also see the speed difference in gearing based on your cadence. That is helpful to me as it helps confirm that going to smaller gearing really doesn't hurt me much for speed.
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https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches
Mess around with this website. enter your tire size(or closest avail) and enter the gear ranges you are considering. You will see how much different 31t is from 30t and 48t is different from 46t.
On the left you can also see the speed difference in gearing based on your cadence. That is helpful to me as it helps confirm that going to smaller gearing really doesn't hurt me much for speed.
Mess around with this website. enter your tire size(or closest avail) and enter the gear ranges you are considering. You will see how much different 31t is from 30t and 48t is different from 46t.
On the left you can also see the speed difference in gearing based on your cadence. That is helpful to me as it helps confirm that going to smaller gearing really doesn't hurt me much for speed.
Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator (mike-sherman.github.io)
#61
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That's a weird calculator. I punched in a standard Shimano 11-34 and it gives me calculations for cogs that do not exist. I would recommend this site though.
Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator (mike-sherman.github.io)
Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator (mike-sherman.github.io)
Maybe I misunderstand the issue though.
#63
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https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-11-speed.html
There is a grx cassette? Bikes ive seen with grx use other group cassettes...at least what has stuck out.
There is a grx cassette? Bikes ive seen with grx use other group cassettes...at least what has stuck out.
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#67
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You don't need a clutch. On my one bike that has one, I took it out.
#68
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I have a clutched RD now and I guess its good, but its hardly a need.
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Agreed. I feel like people spout off about a clutch rd like it's the magic bullet for not dropping a chain. My buddies and I have had more dropped chains with our 1X systems in the last year than dropped chains I've seen in my whole life combined. The problem I'm finding out is that the clutch doesn't do anything for the chain tension from the chainring to the top of the cassette, it only keeps the lower portion of the chain tight. So if your chain is just ever so slightly worn and you hit a bump just right, there's more than enough side to side play in the top portion of the chain wrap to knock it off the (narrow-wide) chainring. It's absolutely maddening.
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#70
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Agreed. I feel like people spout off about a clutch rd like it's the magic bullet for not dropping a chain. My buddies and I have had more dropped chains with our 1X systems in the last year than dropped chains I've seen in my whole life combined. The problem I'm finding out is that the clutch doesn't do anything for the chain tension from the chainring to the top of the cassette, it only keeps the lower portion of the chain tight. So if your chain is just ever so slightly worn and you hit a bump just right, there's more than enough side to side play in the top portion of the chain wrap to knock it off the (narrow-wide) chainring. It's absolutely maddening.
I am just looking at the part of the chain that isnt tensioned though, so from that perspective the chain is quite loose.
Glad you mentioned this as its one of those things Ive observed many times, but never cared enough to look into, yet question what is happening the next time I see it happening. repeat cycle.
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Funny you mention where the slack and tension lies within the chain because over the last 18 or so months that Ive had the Ultegra clutch RD, I have looked down at the chain while riding and thought 'man thats a lot of chain bounce. its as if the clutch isnt on'.
I am just looking at the part of the chain that isnt tensioned though, so from that perspective the chain is quite loose.
Glad you mentioned this as its one of those things Ive observed many times, but never cared enough to look into, yet question what is happening the next time I see it happening. repeat cycle.
I am just looking at the part of the chain that isnt tensioned though, so from that perspective the chain is quite loose.
Glad you mentioned this as its one of those things Ive observed many times, but never cared enough to look into, yet question what is happening the next time I see it happening. repeat cycle.
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It may not be a magic bullet for all situations, but i also have no idea why someone would build up a gravel bike and not use a clutched RD at this point.
I don't really see a downside.
I don't really see a downside.
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For gravel, the GRX groupset is superior and worth the small bit of extra cash in the log run. It is versatile so in the futire you can gear up or down easily and can convert 2x to 1x, has great hood grips, wider chainline etc.
When you put the 9er side by side with the Renegade S2 or S1 it is hard to see why you should shell out so much extra cash for the 9er. Both are excellent bikes with a deep investment in gravel and great brands behind them, but cannot see why to pay so much more for a 9er.
When you put the 9er side by side with the Renegade S2 or S1 it is hard to see why you should shell out so much extra cash for the 9er. Both are excellent bikes with a deep investment in gravel and great brands behind them, but cannot see why to pay so much more for a 9er.
#74
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As you said- no downside. Heck run it turned off even...that really shows there is no downside.
#75
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