Buying current year clearance or wait for next year model?
#1
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Buying current year clearance or wait for next year model?
Hello,
This is my first time trying to buy a brand new bike. At a LBS, it has 2016 Bad Boy 4 on sale for $600. Should I get it now or wait a couple more months to get 2017 model and pay a few hundred dollars more?
I tried to google 2017 specs to compare, but it came up with information of bikes in Europe. The specs there showed every 2017 Bad Boy models has a lefty fork and 650b tires. However, on Trek website in the USA, it shows 2017 Bad Boy 3 with a fatty rigid fork and 700c tires (no Bad Boy 4 yet). Thus, I can't do a comparison with mis-matching data.
Hence, from your experience, is it better to pay full price next year model or buy clearance of current year?
Thanks in advance for your help
This is my first time trying to buy a brand new bike. At a LBS, it has 2016 Bad Boy 4 on sale for $600. Should I get it now or wait a couple more months to get 2017 model and pay a few hundred dollars more?
I tried to google 2017 specs to compare, but it came up with information of bikes in Europe. The specs there showed every 2017 Bad Boy models has a lefty fork and 650b tires. However, on Trek website in the USA, it shows 2017 Bad Boy 3 with a fatty rigid fork and 700c tires (no Bad Boy 4 yet). Thus, I can't do a comparison with mis-matching data.
Hence, from your experience, is it better to pay full price next year model or buy clearance of current year?
Thanks in advance for your help
#2
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Differences between bike years are incremental at best and sometimes are all about the color. Save the money and buy accessories with the difference.
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Try to find an store that has the bike you want in the size you want on their showroom floor (not an order). You can haggle the hell out of them in this case but u will also get a discount if it's a factory order.
I forget the msrp on my trek fx 7.4 but I recall it was almost 200 off on a ~750 bike. They had it in stock in my size right there in the store but the color wasn't the one I wanted. But still super happy with the bike and the $ savings.
I forget the msrp on my trek fx 7.4 but I recall it was almost 200 off on a ~750 bike. They had it in stock in my size right there in the store but the color wasn't the one I wanted. But still super happy with the bike and the $ savings.
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Hello,
This is my first time trying to buy a brand new bike. At a LBS, it has 2016 Bad Boy 4 on sale for $600. Should I get it now or wait a couple more months to get 2017 model and pay a few hundred dollars more?
I tried to google 2017 specs to compare, but it came up with information of bikes in Europe. The specs there showed every 2017 Bad Boy models has a lefty fork and 650b tires. However, on Trek website in the USA, it shows 2017 Bad Boy 3 with a fatty rigid fork and 700c tires (no Bad Boy 4 yet). Thus, I can't do a comparison with mis-matching data.
Hence, from your experience, is it better to pay full price next year model or buy clearance of current year?
Thanks in advance for your help
This is my first time trying to buy a brand new bike. At a LBS, it has 2016 Bad Boy 4 on sale for $600. Should I get it now or wait a couple more months to get 2017 model and pay a few hundred dollars more?
I tried to google 2017 specs to compare, but it came up with information of bikes in Europe. The specs there showed every 2017 Bad Boy models has a lefty fork and 650b tires. However, on Trek website in the USA, it shows 2017 Bad Boy 3 with a fatty rigid fork and 700c tires (no Bad Boy 4 yet). Thus, I can't do a comparison with mis-matching data.
Hence, from your experience, is it better to pay full price next year model or buy clearance of current year?
Thanks in advance for your help
#5
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Thank you, longbeachgary, sh00k, and DorkDisk for your suggestions.
In the original post, I didn't have time to add a little background info, so I'm adding it here:
After almost 40 years of stop riding a bike, recently I bought a used Trek T100 tandem, Quintana Roo Seduza triathlon, and got an old Specialized RockHopper. Since the bikes are second-hand, I have spent lots of time making modifications to fit my newbie riding style. No matter what I do, there seems to be missing something.
So, instead of wasting more time and money, I have decided to buy a new bike. I went to a Trek store and got help from a sale rep. He had me fitted to Trek 7.2 FX, Trek Verve, Cannondale Quick, and Bad boy using GURU simulator. I felt the Bad Boy's geometry fitted best. However, he didn't have one in-stock for me to try. He also told me that Cannondale "re-designed" 2017 model, but he didn't have anything specific. So, I could order 2016 now for $750 or wait a couple of months to see if 2017 will be better.
Hopefully, this little info would help others to shed some more lights... 8-))
Thanks everyone for your kindness in helping another newbie.
In the original post, I didn't have time to add a little background info, so I'm adding it here:
After almost 40 years of stop riding a bike, recently I bought a used Trek T100 tandem, Quintana Roo Seduza triathlon, and got an old Specialized RockHopper. Since the bikes are second-hand, I have spent lots of time making modifications to fit my newbie riding style. No matter what I do, there seems to be missing something.
So, instead of wasting more time and money, I have decided to buy a new bike. I went to a Trek store and got help from a sale rep. He had me fitted to Trek 7.2 FX, Trek Verve, Cannondale Quick, and Bad boy using GURU simulator. I felt the Bad Boy's geometry fitted best. However, he didn't have one in-stock for me to try. He also told me that Cannondale "re-designed" 2017 model, but he didn't have anything specific. So, I could order 2016 now for $750 or wait a couple of months to see if 2017 will be better.
Hopefully, this little info would help others to shed some more lights... 8-))
Thanks everyone for your kindness in helping another newbie.
#7
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Not sure about that particular brand/model, but I know the Giant line pretty well, also Trek. Both of them have archives of their older models available, so you can go back and checkout specs and suggested retail pricing for the past years and verify my own observations.
What I find is that they do a couple of things, and the guys at the LBS have told me this is typical of most manufacturers, not just Giant and Trek:
1) They generally either hold the specs on one particular model exactly or *very* closely the same from year to year, change the color scheme, and jack the price by 10-15% each year; or
2) If the market doesn't seem to warrant a price increase, they hold the price for one year, but reduce the spec on some of the components, IE, drop deraileur and shifters from SLX to Deore, or Deore to Alivio, etc.
AND..
3) Every 3 or 4 years, they revamp the whole model line and bring all of the specs they've incrementally tinkered with back into line with their 'preferred' baseline, and jack the prices by 20% or more.
So my experience is that unless you are at the #3 point where the next year is going to be a wholesale model update/upgrade, and you want to pay the price increase for that, then there's a higher probability/risk of getting a WORSE bike for the same price, or the same bike for a slightly higher price if you wait for the next year. It's less likely that next year's bike will be better at the same price, and even if it is slightly better at a slightly increased price, usually the price increase doesn't jive with what they 'upgraded'. Not guaranteed, but just my observation and own experience.
Cheers
TRJB
What I find is that they do a couple of things, and the guys at the LBS have told me this is typical of most manufacturers, not just Giant and Trek:
1) They generally either hold the specs on one particular model exactly or *very* closely the same from year to year, change the color scheme, and jack the price by 10-15% each year; or
2) If the market doesn't seem to warrant a price increase, they hold the price for one year, but reduce the spec on some of the components, IE, drop deraileur and shifters from SLX to Deore, or Deore to Alivio, etc.
AND..
3) Every 3 or 4 years, they revamp the whole model line and bring all of the specs they've incrementally tinkered with back into line with their 'preferred' baseline, and jack the prices by 20% or more.
So my experience is that unless you are at the #3 point where the next year is going to be a wholesale model update/upgrade, and you want to pay the price increase for that, then there's a higher probability/risk of getting a WORSE bike for the same price, or the same bike for a slightly higher price if you wait for the next year. It's less likely that next year's bike will be better at the same price, and even if it is slightly better at a slightly increased price, usually the price increase doesn't jive with what they 'upgraded'. Not guaranteed, but just my observation and own experience.
Cheers
TRJB
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Thank you therealjoeblow for your insights on yearly updates. I contacted Cannondale customer support, and for the 2017 Bad Boy models they have done a re-design. Below are the pictures of Bad Boy 4 2016 and 2017 models they sent me for comparison. The 2017 has a lefty fork, top tube has a forged reflective logo in the indentation, and other reflective graphics around the frame.
For differences on other components, here is what I can find:
Hubs:
2016 Cannondale C4, disc
2017 Cannondale Urban, 32 hole
Pedals:
2016 Cannondale Urban platform
2017 Cannondale Urban 6point3 Composite
Rear Cogs:
2016 Shimano, 8-sped: 11-32
2017 Sunrace CSM558, 11-32, 9-speed
Other than that everything else is the same.
Because I only ride on flat and easy paved bike routes, I may not want lefty fork in 2017 model to avoid maintenance hassles. And, being a newbie, I don't think I can feel the difference in upgraded components.
I have attached pictures below and, please, let me know other pros/cons between the two. Thanks again for your efforts in helping.
2016 Bad Boy 4 model:
2017 Bad Boy 4 model:
For differences on other components, here is what I can find:
Hubs:
2016 Cannondale C4, disc
2017 Cannondale Urban, 32 hole
Pedals:
2016 Cannondale Urban platform
2017 Cannondale Urban 6point3 Composite
Rear Cogs:
2016 Shimano, 8-sped: 11-32
2017 Sunrace CSM558, 11-32, 9-speed
Other than that everything else is the same.
Because I only ride on flat and easy paved bike routes, I may not want lefty fork in 2017 model to avoid maintenance hassles. And, being a newbie, I don't think I can feel the difference in upgraded components.
I have attached pictures below and, please, let me know other pros/cons between the two. Thanks again for your efforts in helping.
2016 Bad Boy 4 model:
2017 Bad Boy 4 model:
#9
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Thank you therealjoeblow for your insights on yearly updates. I contacted Cannondale customer support, and for the 2017 Bad Boy models they have done a re-design. Below are the pictures of Bad Boy 4 2016 and 2017 models they sent me for comparison. The 2017 has a lefty fork, top tube has a forged reflective logo in the indentation, and other reflective graphics around the frame.
For differences on other components, here is what I can find:
Hubs:
2016 Cannondale C4, disc
2017 Cannondale Urban, 32 hole
Pedals:
2016 Cannondale Urban platform
2017 Cannondale Urban 6point3 Composite
Rear Cogs:
2016 Shimano, 8-sped: 11-32
2017 Sunrace CSM558, 11-32, 9-speed
Other than that everything else is the same.
Because I only ride on flat and easy paved bike routes, I may not want lefty fork in 2017 model to avoid maintenance hassles. And, being a newbie, I don't think I can feel the difference in upgraded components.
I have attached pictures below and, please, let me know other pros/cons between the two. Thanks again for your efforts in helping.
2016 Bad Boy 4 model:
2017 Bad Boy 4 model:
For differences on other components, here is what I can find:
Hubs:
2016 Cannondale C4, disc
2017 Cannondale Urban, 32 hole
Pedals:
2016 Cannondale Urban platform
2017 Cannondale Urban 6point3 Composite
Rear Cogs:
2016 Shimano, 8-sped: 11-32
2017 Sunrace CSM558, 11-32, 9-speed
Other than that everything else is the same.
Because I only ride on flat and easy paved bike routes, I may not want lefty fork in 2017 model to avoid maintenance hassles. And, being a newbie, I don't think I can feel the difference in upgraded components.
I have attached pictures below and, please, let me know other pros/cons between the two. Thanks again for your efforts in helping.
2016 Bad Boy 4 model:
2017 Bad Boy 4 model:
Assuming the frames have the required clearance, this will allow either larger volume tires at the same rollout (overall diameter) as 700c or lower weight for the same tire width because of the smaller wheels.
IMO this is a bigger difference than 8 vs 9 speed, or even pedals which you will more than likely switch out anyways.
Lefty rigid is more for looks than anything practical, and will limit your wheel upgrades down the line. If you want to save some money, get the old model. If 650B is a big deal for you, get 2017
#10
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some ppl buy 10 yr old bikes, I think you'll be fine buying now
#11
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Personally, hubs, pedals, cassettes and "forged logos" would not make any difference to me.
If the drivetrain (deraileurs, shifters and crank) were better or worse, I would consider that within a $100 or so price range (IE, SLX versus Deore).
However, I have never heard of a "lefty fork" until you mentioned it, and just googled that - Full Stop for me. Since I've never seen or heard of one, I'm going to assume that the vast majority of bikes don't use this specialized or exclusive technology. Therefore I would not buy a bike with one because I have no idea how they work, how to maintain them, and they complicate other normal maintenance aspects too. I would personally go with a tried-and-true standard fork, not wanting to be a lab rat for some manufacturer's specialized technology.
Cheers
TRJB
If the drivetrain (deraileurs, shifters and crank) were better or worse, I would consider that within a $100 or so price range (IE, SLX versus Deore).
However, I have never heard of a "lefty fork" until you mentioned it, and just googled that - Full Stop for me. Since I've never seen or heard of one, I'm going to assume that the vast majority of bikes don't use this specialized or exclusive technology. Therefore I would not buy a bike with one because I have no idea how they work, how to maintain them, and they complicate other normal maintenance aspects too. I would personally go with a tried-and-true standard fork, not wanting to be a lab rat for some manufacturer's specialized technology.
Cheers
TRJB
#12
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It's all about the new year's spec's versus last year's. I recently bought a 2016 Giant Trance 2 at a $500 price reduction over the 2017. Rode it for a couple weeks and wanted to start upgrading just because that's the way I am.
My LBS has a 30 day replacement guarantee so I looked over the new 2017 Trance 2 and it had everything I was thinking about adding. 1 x drive train, 34 instead of 32 mm forks, boost hubs, new geometry, wider rims etc. They gave me 5% off the 2017 and it cost me $395 extra which was far less than any single upgrade I wanted to make.
If the new bike is the same bike with the same spec's, which definitely happens, then last year's model makes sense but if this year's model is a marked improvement (which I thought was true in my case) the I'd spring for the new bike but again only if those improvements are what you are looking to improve/upgrade.
My LBS has a 30 day replacement guarantee so I looked over the new 2017 Trance 2 and it had everything I was thinking about adding. 1 x drive train, 34 instead of 32 mm forks, boost hubs, new geometry, wider rims etc. They gave me 5% off the 2017 and it cost me $395 extra which was far less than any single upgrade I wanted to make.
If the new bike is the same bike with the same spec's, which definitely happens, then last year's model makes sense but if this year's model is a marked improvement (which I thought was true in my case) the I'd spring for the new bike but again only if those improvements are what you are looking to improve/upgrade.
#15
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If it has a best-before date, I'd wait.
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I am all for saving a buck! And this is a good time of year to save on a bicycle purchase. But there are other... even more important considerations.
Size. The wrong size bike isn't worth the pain and aggravation. Make sure you are getting the bike YOU want... in the right size. A bargain isn't worth anything on a bike that doesn't fit.
Affordability. A good price doesn't make a bicycle affordable. Having the extra money available is what makes the bike affordable. If you can easily spare the cash... why wait to buy (as long as you've found the right bike). But if budget is a concern.... there will be more (almost as good) sale prices on bikes in the early spring.
The way retail works... in most cases. Early (pre-season) sales recoups the inventory investment. Seasonal sales make operating costs and some profit. Clearance sales... are the gravy (good stuff made from leftovers). Bicycles may be slightly different as Christmas sales seem to treat bikes like they are again... in season.
Size. The wrong size bike isn't worth the pain and aggravation. Make sure you are getting the bike YOU want... in the right size. A bargain isn't worth anything on a bike that doesn't fit.
Affordability. A good price doesn't make a bicycle affordable. Having the extra money available is what makes the bike affordable. If you can easily spare the cash... why wait to buy (as long as you've found the right bike). But if budget is a concern.... there will be more (almost as good) sale prices on bikes in the early spring.
The way retail works... in most cases. Early (pre-season) sales recoups the inventory investment. Seasonal sales make operating costs and some profit. Clearance sales... are the gravy (good stuff made from leftovers). Bicycles may be slightly different as Christmas sales seem to treat bikes like they are again... in season.
#17
Senior Member
Left fork I think was initially suspension fork that reduces unequal travel when there are two legs. Something like that anyways. As a rigid fork I think this is only for looks. It severely restrict choices for new wheels if they're ever needed.
Personally, hubs, pedals, cassettes and "forged logos" would not make any difference to me.
If the drivetrain (deraileurs, shifters and crank) were better or worse, I would consider that within a $100 or so price range (IE, SLX versus Deore).
However, I have never heard of a "lefty fork" until you mentioned it, and just googled that - Full Stop for me. Since I've never seen or heard of one, I'm going to assume that the vast majority of bikes don't use this specialized or exclusive technology. Therefore I would not buy a bike with one because I have no idea how they work, how to maintain them, and they complicate other normal maintenance aspects too. I would personally go with a tried-and-true standard fork, not wanting to be a lab rat for some manufacturer's specialized technology.
Cheers
TRJB
If the drivetrain (deraileurs, shifters and crank) were better or worse, I would consider that within a $100 or so price range (IE, SLX versus Deore).
However, I have never heard of a "lefty fork" until you mentioned it, and just googled that - Full Stop for me. Since I've never seen or heard of one, I'm going to assume that the vast majority of bikes don't use this specialized or exclusive technology. Therefore I would not buy a bike with one because I have no idea how they work, how to maintain them, and they complicate other normal maintenance aspects too. I would personally go with a tried-and-true standard fork, not wanting to be a lab rat for some manufacturer's specialized technology.
Cheers
TRJB
#18
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If you have 1000$ and want a new bike on discount, I would look at it like this!
1500$ bike-33%off =1000$ You get more bike for your money! Or like this
1000$ bike-33%off =666$ You have money left for clothing,shoes and a helmet!
I bought a 1500$ bike for 1000$ and bought cheap cycling stuff( shimano shoes 35$ and a giro helmet 25$ and used running clothes in the start)
Point is buying last year modell is a WIN WIN situasion but i think its easyer to upgrade clothing shoes and helmet later and get the best bike for your money!
Cheers
1500$ bike-33%off =1000$ You get more bike for your money! Or like this
1000$ bike-33%off =666$ You have money left for clothing,shoes and a helmet!
I bought a 1500$ bike for 1000$ and bought cheap cycling stuff( shimano shoes 35$ and a giro helmet 25$ and used running clothes in the start)
Point is buying last year modell is a WIN WIN situasion but i think its easyer to upgrade clothing shoes and helmet later and get the best bike for your money!
Cheers
#19
aka Phil Jungels
The way prices go, you almost always gain bike, by going with the older one! They seem to reduce quality of componentry to hold the line on prices. Especially if you plan on keeping it for awhile, you will save in the long run! MHO, buy the old one
#20
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Thank you very much everyone for putting out the time to provide support to another newbie member. Your helps are greatly appreciated
I would like to report back on the outcome. After taking a couple of weeks to determined that I didn't like a ridged lefty fork on 2017 model and settled for 2016 clearance, unfortunately, Bad Boy 4 in size L were no longer available.
I spent another week reviewing Giant Fastroad SLR1. The difference between current and next year models is color changed. I test road it yesterday and purchased 2016 because I like the color better. I paid full retail at Bicycle Warehouse
Thanks again...
I would like to report back on the outcome. After taking a couple of weeks to determined that I didn't like a ridged lefty fork on 2017 model and settled for 2016 clearance, unfortunately, Bad Boy 4 in size L were no longer available.
I spent another week reviewing Giant Fastroad SLR1. The difference between current and next year models is color changed. I test road it yesterday and purchased 2016 because I like the color better. I paid full retail at Bicycle Warehouse
Thanks again...