Matteius

Hello. I'm sure the best answer to this is just get a new bike, but I really can't afford it.

I'm a 400lb 6' guy, with a long torso and short legs. Finding a comfortable bike is nearly impossible it seems, and I certainly failed again.

I decided to try a road bike, and I was honestly excited as my last road bike was an ancient one I had back in 2001 or so. I essentially blind purchased a Eurobike HYXC550 700C with a 54cm frame on Amazon. Built stock out of the box, I felt like I was going to die the entire 2 block ride back from getting air... the handlebars were way too low for someone with my body shape, even with the seat all the way down, and frankly I felt completely off balance with such narrow handlebars.


I added an extension to the front post, harvested the handlebars from my old MTN bike that was rusting and falling apart, and added some parts from amazon.


My primary use for the bike is exercise and commuting to the beach to swim, however on long bike trips (after about 6 miles) I start having issues with my hands going numb.


The front post is unfortunately slanted towards the seat, and I think that with the extension I have brought it too close to the seat. I end up to be comfortable having my rear end half way off the back of the seat.


So, can anyone tell me, short of a new bike, and preferably for less than 100$ (free would be ideal) what adjustments I might be able to make to help my hands?

Bonus points for any tips that might just help a more comfortable ride all over.


Lastly, kind of off topic, what is the best way to address a lack of difficulty in pedaling? Meaning... I find it far too easy to pedal, and because of my size and musculature I find it FAR easier to put down power than I do to put down rotational speed.

I would have added an image of the bike as it is now, but policy doesn't allow it, as I'm new.

Iride01 

You'll spend more trying to make it work than if you just throw it away and bought a cruiser style bike which will be much more comfortable for the riding you say you want to do.

Cruiser style bikes will have the upright sitting position with the saddle further behind the cranks that you probably need for now. When you add a seat post with large amount of setback, you are essentially mimicking what a cruiser style frame gives you. But because it's a road bike frame and geometry, it still might need more changes with bars and stem changes.

Road bikes are typically for those that consider 20 to 30 miles a short ride, not 6 miles that you currently consider long.

Matteius

6 miles is where my hands go numb -- I typically ride 15 miles and I'm trying to push to 50.

Iride01 

Are your hands mostly on the hoods, top of the bar or in the drops?

The hand position when in the drops, IMO, is the best hand position to avoid numbness. The top of the bar is generally wrist numbness and the hoods that little numbness in the palm of your hand.

Without buying an extender and doing stuff to that bike I'd never do to a bike, you need to get your bars much higher to use the drops more till you get in better shape to want to have them lower.

Still, to fix them is going to need changes in stem length and height. As well as changes to your saddle setback more than likely. Any thing you do will probably just be temporary in nature. As you get fitter cycling wise, things will change.

Matteius

I don't have that handlebar anymore -- this is why I wanted to include a photo, so I could show what I'm currently actually working with.
I have a mountain bike handlebar -- from google searching it appears to be a Salsa Rustler MTB style -- with a pair of... I believe they're called horn grips at the end. The drop bars made me way off balance, to the point I could hardly ride the bike.
I honestly find that my entire hand goes numb regardless of position.

I thought the seat going back more might help, but, it's already pushed back to it's maximum.

Edit: Just looked into stem length, and that is something I could certainly try adjusting. Thanks for the idea!

Matteius

One thing I have been considering, no idea how much it would help though, is to move my current ends inwards, and adding a pair of drop bar ends... essentially giving me the hand positions of a drop bar without all the "imgonnadie" anxiety of the original drop handlebar. I've never tried anything like that before, so quite uncertain, and it would mean investing atleast another 25$.

Iride01 

If you want us to see some pics of it, then just write the share link to it in the plain text of your next post. Remove the https:// and put a space immediately before and after any . that is in the URL. Don't try to use any of the link tools.

If you don't have a place to host your pics, then there is a gallery on BF. But that seems to have some delay too for noobs.

There are also some limits to how many posts a noob can make in 24 hours, so you might bump up against that after your fifth post. So don't go wild making replies.

10 Wheels

Try These:
Amazon.com : BOOMIBOO Hand Grip Strengthener, Hand Soft Foam Manual Exerciser, Rapid Increase of Wrist, Forearm and Finger Strength Exercise Equipment, 2 Pack : Sports & Outdoors

Matteius

Hand strengtheners will help with numbness? I'm certainly willing to give it a try.

Thanks for letting me know about that limit, and for providing that idea! Here is my current bike.
ibb . co/C6rPmfG
ibb . co/261SDkK
ibb . co/Q6jS9QH

Iride01 

Oh, when I was getting back into riding a lot and my hands were going numb or just sore from the tiny bar, I got some of that foam water pipe insulation and wrapped the bars in it. Made it all cushy and more bearable for me while I was getting use to cycling long distances.

But if your numbness is from your wrist being bent, then it won't help that.

philbob57

First, is the bike too small for you? Long torso/short legs could mean 54 cm, but that might be too small. Check your pubic bone height - for example, https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-...asure-your-pbh. Make sure your seat height is right. PBH is crucial for choosing both ST size and seat height.

I believe handlebar posts always slant towards the back of the bike. If the front-back distance is too short, I'd expect butt pain, though, not hand pain. In any case, if you're really long torso/short legs, and the 54 cm is the right seat tube length, your top tube is too small, and you probably need a longer 'stem', which is the piece between the h'bar riser/post and the 'bars themselves - something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GANOPPER-Degr...4225367&sr=8-9 or this: https://www.amazon.com/sanzhi-Adjust...4225699&sr=8-6. Stems come in lengths, and you're probably going to need to be a lot longer than either of the samples I linked to.

But your hand pain could be due to poor core strength. If you're putting all your weight on the 'bars, you can mitigate the pain by holding yourself up with your core muscles.

Or the pain could simply be what you have to go through to break your body into your bike.

Good luck.

If you've described yourself accurately, my guess is that your bike is sized right for your leg length but not for your torso and arms. You may have to compromise on ST length to get the necessary distance between saddle and 'bars.

Matteius

Thanks Iride01, padding is actually a good thing in itself that I'd for some reason not thought of, despite the fact my sweaty hands will slip around dangerously on the horns.
The 5 message limit you mentioned prevented me from following up on this earlier, but my plan as it stands now will be to get a 130mm stem (that's the longest I can find for a reasonable price, I saw 150mm, but it was almost 100$.
Additionally I'm going to see if I can move my horns inwards, near the shifters/brakes (if I can figure that out without hampering shifting and braking) and add a couple of drop bar ends. Lastly I'll pad both bar addons with foam wrap.

philbob57, honestly I'd be more worried height-wise that it's too tall. I have a difficult time getting on the bike (made more difficult by the trunk) and with the seat nearly as low as it goes (raised an inch or so to allow the rear rack to attach) I can reach the ground, but it's much more comfortable to rest my foot on a curb than direct on the ground. I don't have anything to measure pelvic height, but inseam is a similar enough measurement... as average inseam for a man of 6' is generally between 32" and 34" -- I on the other hand measure in at 27", which is important for me to know as I almost always need to get off the shelf pants adjusted. Meanwhile if I get shirts that are 3XL instead of 3XLT, I'm always afraid of exposing my gut.

As for core strength, I certainly do not have, and will not have, the core strength to adequately support myself leaning forward with core muscles.
I have pretty decent core strength, but, I'm pretty massive, and like pull ups, and push ups, it's pretty unlikely I could develop the strength for it at my current weight (I am ofcourse working on lowering my weight).

Iride01 

Pic's from the OP.....


https://ibb.co/C6rPmfG


https://ibb.co/261SDkK


https://ibb.co/Q6jS9QH

Iride01 

How wide are those bars? What is the span of the grips on the ends?

I'd almost be willing to bet you have a pain in your upper back and shoulder blades on long rides. With your hands spread out so far that braces you like an A frame. Your shoulders bear the brunt of the forces that could be shared with your body if the hands are closer together. Perhaps your very upright position mitigates that.

However you should be learning that you bought the wrong bike for the position you want to ride. It's more expensive to adjust that position to your liking and you may never get there. They make bikes with very high frame stack that will not have you using a long extender tube that to me seems like a lot of tube not supported by anything.

But enough of my 2¢.... you might need to go over what issues you need solving so we stay on track.

Matteius

The handlebars are extremely wide -- 32", given the curve it's 31" roughly and to end. I believe my longest ride to date was about 22 miles (being in Florida it's hard to find a comfortable time of day to bike, which is hampering longer rides as much as my lack of fitness, or more). I can't say I had any real back or neck pain, but as you say, that's likely due to my much more upright riding position.

Speaking of handlebar height though, I just looked at my old mountain bike post height, and I think I perhaps overdid that a bit. So I think I will lower the bar a couple of inches as well as make the other changes I last mentioned -- hopefully all of this combined will allow me to ride more comfortably.

I do agree that I bought the wrong bike, and perhaps online shopping for bikes for someone who does not really know enough about them is not a great idea. If I'd sat on this bike in a shop I instantly would have known it felt too cramped and a poor fit. For this year though, this is the bike I have, so I'll make the best of it.

Thanks everyone for their help! Hopefully with all the suggestions and information this will allow me to atleast be comfortable on this otherwise poorly fitted frame.

philbob57

Pants inseam is not a good approximation of pubic bone height, AKA 'cycling inseam'. There's usually a goodly amount of space between the crotch of one's pants and the pubic bone, and there are usually a couple of more inches between the bottom of the pants leg and the floor.

You should not be able to reach the ground with your feet and your butt on the seat. If you can, your seat is too low. One good way of setting seat height is to brace yourself on your bike against a wall, place your feet on both pedals, pedal backward, and set the height at the top of the range that allows you to pedal backwards without rocking your hips. Ride. If you knees don't hurt, you've probably found a good height. Another good way is to use a formula based on pubic bone height - say 109% of cycling inseam from pedal at the bottom of the stroke and the top of the seat. LeMond has another formula, based on pedal to top of seat and 80-something% of cycling inseam. Those are all starting points.

If your core strength is not enough to hold you up, you will put too much weight on the 'bars, and your hands will almost definitely hurt - maybe your wrists, elbows, shoulders, and/or neck, too. That's my own personal experience speaking.

Your problem getting your leg over the rack trunk is due to the extreme height of the thing. Moving it lower will make it easier to get on the bike. That's my own experience speaking, too. If you look at other bikes you see, do you see rack trunks set up like yours? TBH, I've never before seen a rack trunk set up as you've done to yours. There's probably a good reason for that....

Start with seat height. My bet is that you've got yours too low. If your hands didn't keep your rides short, your knees would probably be killing you.

BikingViking793 

hard to tell from pictures, is your saddle nose down?

55murray

This seems really unsafe as is. The pitched forward seat is leaning your 400 lbs into the bars, that is the reason your hands are numbing out. That the torque from that has not snapped that really high extension yet is luck. If that happens, it is a very, very bad wreck. I like the earlier in the thread advise for you to use a cruiser for a while, and think road bike a bit closer to 300 lbs. I mean you basically have that set up cruiser style anyway.

ClydeClydeson

Your hands are going numb because your saddle is canted forward. This causes your weight to want to slide forward and your hands are then tasked with resisting this movement. Adjust your saddle so it is approximately level when viewed from the side and your hand numbness will be lessened or completely fixed.

Also, as a 6' rider, a 54cm bike is too small. In road bikes a 6' rider is best on a 58 or maybe 60cm frame. Your bike is at least two sizes too small.

And you should not adjust your seat height to change its height relative to the bars. Your seat height must be set to get proper leg extension when pedalling, which generally means your your leg should be almost completely straight when the pedal is at the bottom. Once that is set, adjust, modify or change bars to where they are comfortable. NB. Because you want your leg almost straight with the pedal at the bottom, and because there is always some space between the pedal and the ground, a properly adjusted seat will make it so you can only touch the ground with your toes (if at all) when seated. THe solution is to step forward off the seat and straddle the frame when you want to stop. Putting a foot on the curb is also an option, as you found.

icemilkcoffee 

When you are on the bike, most of your weight should be borne by your legs. I would say 60% leg, 30% seat and 10% handlebars. When you are pedaling hard, this comes naturally because you are pushing down on the pedals, and slightly lifting your butt off the seat with each push. But when you are coasting along- make it a habit to straighten one leg and stand on that leg.

Also- I don't know what size those tires are, but at your weight, you should be on wide tires, like 35mm or more.

Iride01 

I don't know that I agree with your percentages, but it's not really important. I do agree that pedaling does have a profound affect on the weight your butt and hands will feel. Slow riders are going to sit heavier on both the saddle and bars. Legs, when pedaling with power and speed do lighten the load on both the saddle and bar.

I think to many take these ideas about balancing on the saddle, and other things they read and immediately forget about the when pedaling hard part. Although it doesn't even have to be a hard effort pedaling. Just a normal to moderate effort when at normal cruising speed.

Matteius

Thanks everyone!

As a general update, I've received the first ordered part (which was the stem) -- I now have a 130mm stem, which has certainly made things feel more comfortable already.

@55murray -- Thanks, a different bike simply isn't in the cards though, just don't have the cash for it, as I said I had less than 100$ to work with.

@ClydeClydeson -- I was not able to come forward previously due to the handlebars being way too close. The new stem has fixed that and I am finally able to do so. On my first short ride, now that I had a little space, it was incredibly obvious that the seat is too low. My knees are bending far too much at their upper limit and it is uncomfortable, and probably is what was causing my knee pain. I will be adjusting the seat before my next ride, and I'll adjust the angle as well. I no longer had to push to the very back of the seat to ride (this is probably also why I noticed the nee issue more). Thanks for all the information on seat and bar height adjustment.

As for a larger frame, I assume it would also be taller? This would be an issue for me... remember I have EXTREMELY short legs. While I'm 6', my legs are more the average length of someone 5'4" - 5'6". In fact my 5'3" wife has legs a little longer than mine. I've honestly considered a rather awful surgery to correct this, but... even if I had the money for that I should learn to love myself, awkward proportions and all... plus I'm not sure I want to be 6'6" (I mean part of me wants to ofcourse).

@icemilkcoffee -- My only concern with that is that I've snapped atleast 10 pedals in my life... remember I'm a massive guy, with muscular legs. I pretty effortlessly leg press 1k lbs, so between my weight and my power, I don't want to even imagine the kind of strain I put on the pedals/crank/etc. As for tires, those would be very much out of budget. Everything is pretty much out of budget now as I spent well over half of my budget on my current parts. I do also hate thick tires though I should say, because they make me feel soooo slow. As it is I REALLY want to replace the crank assembly (but can't afford to) with something that will let me turn my massive power into more speed. My old hybrid had a much larger gear than this thing has (but I had that modded in a bike shop, and that was like a decade ago now)

Clyde1820

Image assist, based on those links ...

Matteius

Brief update: I have now lengthened the stem, raised the seat, and adjusted the handlebars (I had first lowered the handlebars as a test, which as was mentioned once I locked the seat in right were no longer at a comfortable height). I've also added (somehow) a pair of drop ends between the handlebar grips and the brakes (where I used to have an extension to the handlebar grips). The last change made to give me a completely different hand position on long rides. I still need to adjust to it, but nothing feels uncomfortable so far, and raising the seat has made it easier to put down power, and a lot less pressure on the knees if pedaling seated. Tomorrow the foam will come for the grips, and once that is installed I am done. I won't know for sure until my next long trip, but I'm hopeful that this all has made enough difference to my grip and my position to lessen the strain on my wrist, and stop the numbness.

Thanks again to everyone for all the input!