Rear Fender Mounting Hack
#1
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Rear Fender Mounting Hack
Does anyone have a good (aka non-destructive) hack for attaching a rear fender to seatstays without a bolt hole? The aluminum frame has wishbone style seatstays and the fender has the tab to attach a bolt through the seatstay bridge but the frame has no bolt hole.
#2
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Is this a disc frame with no brake at the "bridge"? Are you installing full coverage fenders? Is there no bridge at the chainstays?
Usually the clearances on bikes constructed in such a manner aren't conducive to cramming something else between the tire and the brake bridge. A full fender (clearances permitting) will do fine with a solid mount at the front of the arc, and at the rear. You could clip or fasten the front of the fender to the seat tube, and have it float over the wheel until you get to the fender struts at the rear.
Usually the clearances on bikes constructed in such a manner aren't conducive to cramming something else between the tire and the brake bridge. A full fender (clearances permitting) will do fine with a solid mount at the front of the arc, and at the rear. You could clip or fasten the front of the fender to the seat tube, and have it float over the wheel until you get to the fender struts at the rear.
#3
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Nope frame only has canti posts.
Yes
No separate bridge; looks like the photo attached.
Lots of clearance available. What kind of clip/fastener would you recommend?
Yes
No separate bridge; looks like the photo attached.
Usually the clearances on bikes constructed in such a manner aren't conducive to cramming something else between the tire and the brake bridge. A full fender (clearances permitting) will do fine with a solid mount at the front of the arc, and at the rear. You could clip or fasten the front of the fender to the seat tube, and have it float over the wheel until you get to the fender struts at the rear.
#4
aka Phil Jungels
Zip ties, one around each leg, and one between the two, one hanging from that, thru the fender eye.
Likes For Wanderer:
#5
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Reason being, SKS and PDW will both recommend a full cm of clearance between the tread and the inside in the fender. You can do less, but I try to keep at least half that, or you'll hear every picked up bit of grit. The zip ties trick will work, but they'll need to be snug so bumps don't knock the fender into rubbing.
#6
elcraft
Zip ties through carefully planned holes in the fenders should work. If you need to seal the holes, a little silicone caulk should work. If done right, you won’t even mar the paint...
#7
jj
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked 110 Times
in
78 Posts
Ugh, that looks a fair weather only bike. What a pain. The only no-rattle solution is to have some kind of metal artist or just a Machinist fabricate up a U-bracket to mount to the brake posts with a center hole for your fender. As mentioned in another post, it looks like v-brake clearance is minimal and whether you hack in a mount or have a nice gajobber made up, you’re going to want to swap to canti brakes... for which that frame probably doesn’t have an easy way to mount a cable hanger...
I think you probably need to be exploring options regarding either adding another bike to the collection or swapping that one for one which can take fenders.
I think you probably need to be exploring options regarding either adding another bike to the collection or swapping that one for one which can take fenders.
#8
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
^^^ what they said
Now, recognize that this is unsafe, but hear me out...
Do you use your rear brake?
Clearing the brake cable is much easier if it isn't there...
Now serious. I chose to ride a road frame paired with incorrect brakes for the klunker challenge for a single 113km ride. The rear brake the bike was built with was a Weinmann Vainqueur 999 750, but the bike came with a pair of Dia Compe's 610 copy when I got it. The reach was fine up front, but the farthest reach in the rear had the middle of the pads line up with the edge of the rim. So I set them up wide open so I couldn't blow out the sidewall if I used the rear brake like a numbskull. I was "forced" into the situation, but I'd bet you'd get along fine without the rear brake.
Best course would be to mount something like the sks raceblades, but you'd lose full coverage.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
#9
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
The brake cable looks like it'll interfere with mounting, can you use cantis?
Reason being, SKS and PDW will both recommend a full cm of clearance between the tread and the inside in the fender. You can do less, but I try to keep at least half that, or you'll hear every picked up bit of grit. The zip ties trick will work, but they'll need to be snug so bumps don't knock the fender into rubbing.
Reason being, SKS and PDW will both recommend a full cm of clearance between the tread and the inside in the fender. You can do less, but I try to keep at least half that, or you'll hear every picked up bit of grit. The zip ties trick will work, but they'll need to be snug so bumps don't knock the fender into rubbing.
#10
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Ugh, that looks a fair weather only bike. What a pain. The only no-rattle solution is to have some kind of metal artist or just a Machinist fabricate up a U-bracket to mount to the brake posts with a center hole for your fender. As mentioned in another post, it looks like v-brake clearance is minimal and whether you hack in a mount or have a nice gajobber made up, you’re going to want to swap to canti brakes... for which that frame probably doesn’t have an easy way to mount a cable hanger...
I think you probably need to be exploring options regarding either adding another bike to the collection or swapping that one for one which can take fenders.
I think you probably need to be exploring options regarding either adding another bike to the collection or swapping that one for one which can take fenders.
However I like your idea about a metal U-bracket that mounts to the brake posts...like what the early suspension forks had (see pic below). Now to find one...
#11
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Perhaps you could install a brake booster like this one and use the hole on the top for a fender mount.
Last edited by Kapusta; 10-23-20 at 07:04 PM.
#12
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Perhaps you could install a brake booster like this one and use the hole on the top for a fender mount.
Likes For bOsscO:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
105 Posts
Zefal makes the Gizmo that offers a way to replicate a braze-on style mount using zip ties. Perhaps this can be used to provide a way to attach the fender...
Gizmo Universal - Universal bottle cage
Gizmo Universal - Universal bottle cage
#14
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
#15
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,394
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,694 Times
in
2,516 Posts
I like the brake booster idea. And as a really useless aside, Planet Bike (I think) includes something that allows you to use zip ties with some of their fenders.
#16
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Zefal makes the Gizmo that offers a way to replicate a braze-on style mount using zip ties. Perhaps this can be used to provide a way to attach the fender...
Gizmo Universal - Universal bottle cage
Gizmo Universal - Universal bottle cage
#18
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
My Commuter/tourer uses a long bolt and a cork to space out the fender from the chainstay bridge for a proper shape. You could easily use one of those zip tie braze-ons to do the same. Stainless bolts are $0.50 a piece at my Ace Hardware.
#19
bOsscO
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
212 Posts
Again, since you have the clearance you need to stuff a fender in there, you only need the rear stays and the front attachment, if you can make it solid (SKS uses clips for the chainstay bridge.
My Commuter/tourer uses a long bolt and a cork to space out the fender from the chainstay bridge for a proper shape. You could easily use one of those zip tie braze-ons to do the same. Stainless bolts are $0.50 a piece at my Ace Hardware.
My Commuter/tourer uses a long bolt and a cork to space out the fender from the chainstay bridge for a proper shape. You could easily use one of those zip tie braze-ons to do the same. Stainless bolts are $0.50 a piece at my Ace Hardware.
#20
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Likes For Kapusta:
#22
Junior Member