Slowridr

Trying to find why I'm getting vibration through my pedals. Not happening all the time. Mostly under load and on the bottom 4 sprockets.

Newer bike so new chain cassette and derailleurs. Chain rings are used but in good condition and tightened correctly. Bikes aluminum. 11 speed 105. Bb30. Finally no tire rub anywhere

Where should I continue my search?

Thanks

delbiker1 

Is the chain lubricated? New does not mean properly lubricated. Easiest place to start.

ThermionicScott 

By "bottom" do you mean the 4 smallest? Probably chordal action: 2.2.1 Chordal Action

hrdknox1

It could be a bad rear wheel bearing if it happens when pedalling and coasting. I had this occur with a fairly new wheel.

Clem von Jones

The bottom bracket bearings might be over-tightened to the point the bearing cartridges are impinged by compression. That will create roughness and wear them out quickly. This especially pertains to cartridge style square tapered BBs.

davidad

Square taper BBs are installed such that you can't overload the bearings.

Slowridr

Thanks I think I feel vibration while coasting also. Hard to tell as not as bad. Do I just check the hub for play then? It's a DA hub.

How would I tell?



One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.

jlaw

Yup - I notice this phenomena too when riding the smaller rear cogs - especially when using the small chain ring. Feels a little bit like 'lugging' a diesel motor.

alcjphil

At this point, perhaps more specific information about your bike is going to be useful. A Dura Ace hub is very high quality, but, how old is it? Dura Ace goes back to when high end bikes used freewheels, and there have been multiple generations since then. Diagnosing a problem starts with knowing exactly what you are dealing with

hrdknox1

You can check the wheel bearings. Play in the hub is not necessarily an indicator for worn bearings. A loose hub will not generate the vibration you are feeling. You will need to spin the wheel and see if it spins smoothly. If it does not, then replace the bearings.
There most likely is a YouTube video on how to replace bearings in a Dura Ace hub....it's far far far from rocket science.

Clem von Jones

If the bottom bracket has rust in it, is worn out, or is over-tightened you can feel a "grittiness" travel through the crank arms. On a repair stand if you spin the crank slowly by hand while keeping your hand on the crank arm you'll feel the grittiness. If that's the case then you have to remove the crank arms and loosen the bottom bearing cups a bit. That requires two special tools: a crank-arm remover tool (the Dura Ace crank arms might have a self-loosening feature if there are two small holes on either side of the crank arm bolt cap. This type of crank arm doesn't require a special removal tool) and a bottom bracket cup tool. The cup on the drive side of the bottom bracket has threads that go contrary to ordinary threads, so a clockwise movement will loosen them. The non-drive threads are normal, so a counter-clockwise movement will loosen them. Bottom bracket cups should be adequately tight but shouldn't be over-tightened. Don't yank on the wrench like a damn gorilla when tightening them.

It's possible the rear wheel hub has too much play or needs repacking. You lift the rear of your bike and spin the wheel by hand slowly without letting go while checking for a grittiness feeling. Also try wiggling the wheel from side to side. If there's noticeable lateral play in the bearing it needs to be tightened, and could probably use grease repacking at the same time. This job requires special tools: wheel cone wrenches.

A third possibility is your pedal bearings are worn, dirty, and need attention. If you spin the crank backwards slowly you might feel grittiness in those bearings if you keep your fingers on the pedal spindle. Some pedal bearings can be disassembled, cleaned, and repacked with grease.

A forth possibility is your chain is rusted, is threaded through the derailleur incorrectly, or the derailleur jockey-wheel bearings are messed up.

Miele Man

Is your rear derailleur properly adjusted? Sometimes being very slightly out of adjustment isn't noticeable until a load is put on the drivetrain like when riding up a hill. Then that slight out of adjustment manifests itself.

Cheers

Slowridr

I haven't posted in a while because I thought the vibration was getting better and was hoping it would go away. However it's back and annoying as ever.

I tried my other wheels to see if that was the problem. Still vibrating with a new wheels.

I also readjusted the rear derailleur. Made sure the limit screws are in line and it's properly indexed. Still vibrating.

I just pulled the crank off and do see some marks on the spindle. Are these normal? Could this be the problem? The spindle and bottom bracket have less then 1000km on them. The bearings seem to be spinning good.

Slowridr

Also ruled out the pedals.

What chain lube would be best if it is caused by slight chain vibration?

hrdknox1

No, marks on the spindle are not normal. To start, try a different chain lube. Then change the bottom bracket. If you are still getting vibration, change the bottom bracket then change the crankset.
A good chain lube is Dupont Chain Saver wax-based chain lube.

Troul 

Lessen the chain wrap at the rear cassette. See if that makes a difference.

ruudboek

I have the same problem, did you ever solve the vibration issue?

Slowridr

I think the issue was because it was a new bike. It broke in nicely. I did find chain lube made it a lot better. Sorry forget the name of the lube. Don't have it anymore. It was black bottle red label.

FBinNY 

A vibration limited to the smaller rear sprockets is usually caused by something called chordal action.

It's a common and well documented effect in chain drives using small sprockets. It's not broken or fixable, simply an inherent property of the system. That said, better chain lubes help dampen it.

Bart78

I have the same experience. I can't eliminate chordal action even when using immersive waxing. Only thick, sticky lube can eliminate this, like rohloff - unfortunately for me disadvantages disqualifies using such lubes.