Flat Resistant Tires
11-14-17, 03:57 AM
#26
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Think about this: if the filler is at the bottom is is pointed up so that the sealant can always drain out. At any other position it can get filled with sealant that drips from the top of the tire onto the inside of the rim and drips around the rim.
New wheels are high tension low spoke count rims. I paid less for a set of cyclocross wheels than I would for a single tubeless rim. Where do figure on buying correctly cut spokes these days? "Good 2nd hand hubs" mostly aren't. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-...0AAOSwridaAKpj) Why would you build a wheel yourself using 105 hubs? Or Centaur?
I can build an old 36 or 32 spoke count wheel in a half hour but why should I when I can get a lower end Campy or Fulcrum wheel so cheaply?
If you want to run racing tires and not get flats you could always opt for sealant filled tubes and have exactly the same problems you would have with a tubeless tire.
If you get an effective flat resistant tire such as the Gatorskin you have fewer problems (you don't have to worry where the stem is) and you very seldom get flats. With Gatorskins in five years I've had less than a dozen flats. With the supposedly flat resistant Michelin Power Endurance I had worse riding characteristics and 3 flat in two months. And they were all with glass shards that I'm pretty sure wouldn't have given me a flat on the Continentals.
New wheels are high tension low spoke count rims. I paid less for a set of cyclocross wheels than I would for a single tubeless rim. Where do figure on buying correctly cut spokes these days? "Good 2nd hand hubs" mostly aren't. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-...0AAOSwridaAKpj) Why would you build a wheel yourself using 105 hubs? Or Centaur?
I can build an old 36 or 32 spoke count wheel in a half hour but why should I when I can get a lower end Campy or Fulcrum wheel so cheaply?
If you want to run racing tires and not get flats you could always opt for sealant filled tubes and have exactly the same problems you would have with a tubeless tire.
If you get an effective flat resistant tire such as the Gatorskin you have fewer problems (you don't have to worry where the stem is) and you very seldom get flats. With Gatorskins in five years I've had less than a dozen flats. With the supposedly flat resistant Michelin Power Endurance I had worse riding characteristics and 3 flat in two months. And they were all with glass shards that I'm pretty sure wouldn't have given me a flat on the Continentals.
however .... if you cannot be fussed with changing a tube on the rare occasions that you do get a puncture (it takes a few minutes), and if you are not bothered about speed or comfort, get Schwalbe Marathon Plus
11-14-17, 07:01 AM
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Not sure where you heard this but I have taken a few courses on crash reconstruction that would certainly disagree with that statement.
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11-14-17, 07:48 AM
#28
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I'm sticking with the Schwalbe One. Rode this one for 32 miles, pulled the staple out at the end of the ride, and it sealed right up. 5 flats in 7 years. Flat resistance is only one of the attributes of tubeless tires.
I'm sticking with the Schwalbe One. Rode this one for 32 miles, pulled the staple out at the end of the ride, and it sealed right up. 5 flats in 7 years. Flat resistance is only one of the attributes of tubeless tires.
11-14-17, 09:46 AM
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And I most certainly don't know what you think you heard but tires wear dramatically faster with heavier riders. You can see it here for crying out loud - someone says that they weigh 150 lbs and get 10,000 miles on a tire and someone 180 lbs gets 2,500 miles on the same tire.
11-14-17, 10:26 AM
#30
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filler valve should not be on the bottom when you store the bike as the liquid sealant lays on the bottom and can cause gunk to go into the valve (That's what I read on another forum) .... not sure if it's true though ....
while you are riding, it makes no difference where the valve is positioned when you stop
A new wheelset (tubeless ready) can be built for cheap, especially if you use good 2nd hand hubs .... Some good tubeless ready rims are very cheap
while you are riding, it makes no difference where the valve is positioned when you stop
A new wheelset (tubeless ready) can be built for cheap, especially if you use good 2nd hand hubs .... Some good tubeless ready rims are very cheap
11-14-17, 04:28 PM
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I'm sure that a tubeless rim is preferable but, except for needing a blast of air to initially seat the tire, I've had no problem at all using a tubeless ready tire and my old rim.
11-14-17, 07:55 PM
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And I most certainly don't know what you think you heard but tires wear dramatically faster with heavier riders. You can see it here for crying out loud - someone says that they weigh 150 lbs and get 10,000 miles on a tire and someone 180 lbs gets 2,500 miles on the same tire.
11-15-17, 08:54 AM
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Not sure what you’re reading but I originally posted that I get around 10,000 miles on a set of tires. You responded that you were surprised that I get that much use out of the tires and posted the type of riding and the roads you ride on. I responded about the roads I ride on and the fact that my 153 pound weight probably helps with the the longevity of the tires. You responded that tires do not wear in a linear manner with extra weight. I responded that I disagreed. Now you’re agreeing with me.
You: "Not sure where you heard this but I have taken a few courses on crash reconstruction that would certainly disagree with that statement."
Did I somehow misunderstand you? Or perhaps you miswrote?
11-16-17, 12:31 PM
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Could be a misunderstanding on both our parts. My stand on this is that tires do wear faster as rider weight increases.
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11-16-17, 07:53 PM
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I have had just one flat with Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires . They area not cheap, but considering I have a bit over 13,000 miles on them , IMO they are worth the cost .
11-20-17, 09:03 AM
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I did another 75 milers yesterday. I used the Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra which has the Michelin Pro4 Endurance tires on it and again I almost instantly noticed that they roll a LOT better than the Power Endurance Michelin's I have on the Pinarello Stelvio. And the Power Endurance roll similar to a Gatorskin but just a bit stickier.
09-20-18, 03:16 PM
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My 28mm Gator Hardshells went 5k miles with only 1 flat in the rear, none in the front. Actually, they started delaminating around the bead. Just swapped them for 25mm with about 500 trouble free miles so far. Also I've been running them at 120 psi and they do love a smooth road. They feel so good in fact I regret not going to the 23mm.
Last edited by slorollin; 09-20-18 at 03:23 PM.
09-20-18, 07:08 PM
#38
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I've had pretty good luck with Serfas Secas. They feel a little more compliant than gatorskins and I haven't had one flat on me yet. They're pretty reasonably priced, too. I commute through the city and have to ride through broken glass almost daily.
I like that the gatorskins are a little wider on my 27" rims.
I like that the gatorskins are a little wider on my 27" rims.
09-20-18, 09:34 PM
#39
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The most flat resistant tire I have used is the panaracer ribmo.
It rides like a wood wagon wheel, and wet grip is close to non-existent.
They do wear like iron though, sold that bike, I bet those tires are still in use somewhere.
I prefer tires that are more supple, how anyone can ride on flat proof tires for thousands of KM and enjoy it is beyond my comprehension, all of the rental bikes here use solid rubber tires, with truly soul crushing ride quality.
It rides like a wood wagon wheel, and wet grip is close to non-existent.
They do wear like iron though, sold that bike, I bet those tires are still in use somewhere.
I prefer tires that are more supple, how anyone can ride on flat proof tires for thousands of KM and enjoy it is beyond my comprehension, all of the rental bikes here use solid rubber tires, with truly soul crushing ride quality.
09-21-18, 10:47 AM
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Are Continental 4 season good on rough bike trails. Cold weather is coming and who wants to fix a flat in freezing temps.
I'm debating between leaving the tubeless tires on and carrying tire plugs or switching to the Continentals and running tubes since the tires are much more puncture resistant than what I have right now. Continental make good tires but so slow to implement tubeless tech into their road tires.
I'm debating between leaving the tubeless tires on and carrying tire plugs or switching to the Continentals and running tubes since the tires are much more puncture resistant than what I have right now. Continental make good tires but so slow to implement tubeless tech into their road tires.
09-21-18, 11:26 AM
#41
Easily Led Astray
Used Gatorskins for years riding locally with few flats. Used them on my first bike tour and had 7 flats in 13 days, including one horrible day outside Phoenix with 3 flats in about 20 miles.
For touring, I've switched to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and have had 1 flat in almost 5000 miles. I have a set on my road bike but I'm thinking of switching to Schwalbe Durano Plus tires. Anyone have any experience with this tire?
For touring, I've switched to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and have had 1 flat in almost 5000 miles. I have a set on my road bike but I'm thinking of switching to Schwalbe Durano Plus tires. Anyone have any experience with this tire?
09-21-18, 12:01 PM
#42
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I've used Serfas Seca tires (puncture-resistant model), too, and they seem to be very flat resistant. 700 x 28 tires; I don't like using anything narrower than a 28 for comfort purposes.
I also use Vittoria Randonnuers (700 x 32 or 35) on a light touring bicycle, and haven't had any excessive punctures with them, and that includes riding on some pretty trashy roads.
Note about Vittoria tires: I've found they are quite 'rim-sensitive'; they're easy to get on/off of some rims, but almost impossible to get on/off on other brands of rims. This has occured more frequently with their narrower tires (23-25s). If you do by a Vittoria brand tire check that it will work on your rim before going out on the road with them - its a PITA to deal with a tightly fitting tire while sitting on the curb with traffic streaming by.
I also use Vittoria Randonnuers (700 x 32 or 35) on a light touring bicycle, and haven't had any excessive punctures with them, and that includes riding on some pretty trashy roads.
Note about Vittoria tires: I've found they are quite 'rim-sensitive'; they're easy to get on/off of some rims, but almost impossible to get on/off on other brands of rims. This has occured more frequently with their narrower tires (23-25s). If you do by a Vittoria brand tire check that it will work on your rim before going out on the road with them - its a PITA to deal with a tightly fitting tire while sitting on the curb with traffic streaming by.
09-21-18, 02:31 PM
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Bang for the buck I go with the Gatorskins $35. First set I used I got 8k miles out of a set w/o a flat.
Had to replace the rear Amardillo $55 after less than 1K.
Had to replace the rear Amardillo $55 after less than 1K.
09-21-18, 02:38 PM
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Which Gatorskins, aren't there several different kinds of them? I'm looking for protection all the way around the tire if possible. I can't get my preferred tire so I thought I would try these. Unfortunately, they're out of stock almost everywhere in the size I want (25s).
09-21-18, 05:17 PM
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Which Gatorskins, aren't there several different kinds of them? I'm looking for protection all the way around the tire if possible. I can't get my preferred tire so I thought I would try these. Unfortunately, they're out of stock almost everywhere in the size I want (25s).
https://www.amazon.com/Continental-G...S1X&th=1&psc=1
09-21-18, 05:33 PM
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Thanks. Just to clarify, there are 3 different kinds of Continental Gatorskin tires? a.) Regular, b.) Hardshell, and c.) Duraskin? Anyone know what the differences between them are? I find this very confusing, if there was only one freakin' kind I would have bought some by now.
