The Piper

Hola,

Looking to make a lightweight yet durable 700c coaster brake build. The goal is to get the wheel less than 1300g if possible. I'm heavy guy (220lbs) so I'm looking to use a 25-32c max tire. Don't have a clue on what rim and spoke choice to choose, though I was looking to get a Shimano CB-E110 (~500g) for hub. Trying to keep the build sub 300$ including the wheel builder labor if possible. Any suggestions for hub, spokes, nipples, rim?

wschruba

First thing to check is that your bike can take a 120 axle natively. Coaster brake hubs are sold in a 110-120 configuration, for the most part--anything else, you'll have to disassemble the hub, and put a longer axle in/re-dish the wheel. It can be done, of course, but it is also an impediment to a low-cost build. Make sure you are buying a hub with 14g spoke holes, or use spoke washers, if not (these will add labor for anyone who has ever built with them, beware).

Using a 36-hole hub/rim, you shouldn't need any special spokes. DT Champion, Sapim Leader, Wheelsmith 2.0 spokes, would all be fine. You can split hairs if you want, and buy more expensive spokes (that MAY marginally increase the strength of your build), but they're largely unnecessary, here. You may want to use larger gauge (2.3mm) spokes if you can't source a hub to use 14g...but you will then likely be limited by your rim selection needing larger nipple sockets, or needing to purchase more expensive spokes. Nipples are nothing special, and likely come with the spokes you are buying. DT, Wheelsmith, Sapim...whatever.

Sun CR18s are fine rims for what you want to do, and available in many different drillings.

1300g, with a tire? That's not undoable for a budget build, but strong may be a tall order. I would suggest that you shelve your desire for a light wheel, and build to your other points: durable and strong.

The Piper

The desired weight (-1300g) is without the tire or tube. There is a wheelset that is around 150$ that uses the Sun CR18s but the rear wheel weighs around 1600g with the shimano coaster brake without tire or tube (I believe). I want to see if I can build one significantly lighter.

abramj

I agree with The Piper, you ned to prioritize your desires. If you cut too much weight, you wil suffer with durability. If you are 220, that's pretty good weight for trying to lighten up a rim set. I'mt 180 lb, and I'm not a fan of going too light. On the positive side, I know that the inexpensive purchased wheels are usually using super heavy rims and heavy spokes when you get into the coaster brake wheels, probably due to liability. You may want to focus on going with a lighter tire, tubeless, and maybe using a lighter rim. But get with a builder and talk it over. Most of the locak guys that build up wheels in my area have tried most things and know what works.

good luck!

The Piper

Bump.

The Piper

I leaning towards going with a Velocity A23 or A23 OC 36h and the Shimano CB-E110. I see the Shimano hub comes with 2 different options 80g and a 105g, which one would use lighter spokes?

fietsbob

I understand the S1C hub from sturmey archer is of decent quality.. , to build a wheel around,
aluminum hubshell,
Sturmey-Archer | S1C Silver offered in other colors too..
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/...0IGH%20S1C.pdf
in 116 & 119 width , 32 or 36 hole hub
Weight ; 1260g as stated in above documents.








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CliffordK

You should be able to adjust the width of bolt on hubs somewhat with spacers if necessary.

I would not use the Off Center/OC/Asymmetric rims for a single speed. It just isn't necessary. I've used the Velocity Aerohead, and liked it. The A23 should be a good rim. Note, of course, all current versions of the A23 are "tubeless ready". It means the tire has to be forced into the center channel to mount. Other rims may be easier to change tires with.

There are several coaster brake multi-speed internal gear hubs. They will increase the weight somewhat, but should be considered.

The Piper

I appreciate the info but a bit heavy for what I'm looking for. Thanks!

Keep this in mind Thanks!

The Piper

Still working on this coaster brake wheel build. I'm leaning toward the Velocity Fusion and Shimano CB-E110. Trying to make sure I get the spoke length correct using info from the web.



Not sure how accurate this is but I will be ordering one in a bit to have it in hand for more accurate numbers. Shimano make them in different spoke holes (from my research) 80g or 105g (I want the 80g because it's suppose to use 14 gauge spoke). Did I fill this out correctly? Would extending the axles to 120 for track dropouts change the spoke length?

dabac

Your ERD is NOT 622mm.
622mm is the BSD, Bead Seat Diameter, an entirely different beast.
Don't think you have 48mm hub flange either. That sounds like derailer gear/front rim brake hub dimensions.
And while not impossible, IMO it's unlikely that your hub will be that symmetrical. All IGHs and coaster brake hubs I've dealt with have had SOME offset, resulting in a 8-10% difference in spoke tension balance for a properly dished/centered wheel.
The difference won't be big, but might be big enough to influence decisions about rounding up/down spoke lengths.
Hub spoke hole is unlikely to be 2.0 mm too. Most spokes are 2.0 mm at the bend. It'd be a struggle to force a 2.0 bent spoke through a 2.0 hole. Most spoke holes are bigger with 2.3mm the measurement I recall.
There are spokes that are 1.8mm throughout. I suppose those might be a snug fit for a 2.0 mm hole

63rickert

Bendix is still the best hub. Long out of production, still plentiful. Try ebay and keep an eye on the alley. Ten years ago there was an infinite supply in the alley. Even better is Morrow or Mattatuck, those are long in the tooth but show up. The Shimano hub is very basic, does not inspire confidence. It's nice to have confidence in your brake.

Coaster hubs on Schwinn were effective because you sat directly over the rear hub and sitting upright it was automatic to give the pedal some force. On most all other builds you need a caliper front as well.

The Piper

Got the rear hub built at a shop smh. I want to build the front hub myself what (or at least try lol). What length spoke should I get according to the calculator? I am thinking 286 mm

martianone

The Piper

Got the rear hub built at a shop smh. I want to build the front hub myself what (or at least try lol). What length spoke should I get according to the calculator? I am thinking 286 mm. Can someone verify?

Gresp15C

Out of curiosity, what weight were you able to reach?

The Piper

FAILURE smh, 1560g according to my scale. The goal was ~1300g, at 1560g I should've just bought the set (front and rear) for 150 bucks already assembled. We live and we learn. If I like the ride when it warms up I will probably try again . I like the clean aesthetics of fixed breakless but my patella's don't .