Clunker Challenge #5
#76
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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@Phamilton, that's pretty special! You may end up keeping it. Where is that bike shop sticker from? There's a Marty's in NJ.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#77
Virgo
@Phamilton, that's pretty special! You may end up keeping it. Where is that bike shop sticker from? There's a Marty's in NJ.
I really think this might be a keeper. Seems to fit pretty nice without much fuss. It’s deceptively light and fast. Everything works, rides really well.
#78
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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Park Ridge is in NJ, but Marty's isn't there any more. They are in Morristown, Hacketstown, and Randolph. I guess they used to be in Park Ridge. Given how you ride and how much you like that Trek hybrid, this Schwinn may even become your favorite. Then again, you have a Raleigh Competition in your project queue.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#79
The Huffmeister
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The Le Grande HQ
Posts: 2,694
Bikes: '79 Trek 938, '86 Jim Merz Allez SE, '90 Miyata 1000, '68 PX-10, '80 PXN-10, '73 Super Course, '87 Guerciotti, '83 Trek 600, '80 Huffy Le Grande
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I've been tackling the Fuji, or has it been tackling me? I'm not quite sure.
If I am winning, its in the category of 'hella more work than necessary for myself', and if I have to make up that category to win something, I will and will bribe Narhay to include it.
So, I wanted to save the stem, and it was freaking long, so I think we're good there:
Now, I already know what you all are thinking. "Oh no! He left no protruding stem overhang to crush the stem post together when he cuts it, and will be up s*&t creek!"
Well, o naive alarmists, I had a plan. I was going to take a long stem bolt, thread the wedge, the tap the wedge out of the bottom of the steerer tube. That would give me clearance to put something in the bottom of the steerer tube and knock the stem remains up through the top of the steerer tube once I made a cut.
Well, I gingerly cut a slot in the stem chunk, and merrily went on my way to tap out the wedge.
Well, about that.
Turns out, the wedge was getting jammed in the steerer tube. It wasn't coming out the bottom. It went about 2/3rds down and would jam SOLID. Halfway through, I actually thought I had ruined the fork. Yeah, it got that bad.
I had no idea what was going on. I was losing patience and thought maybe I would just get a new fork and scrap this one.
Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
Since I couldn't get the wedge out and I had cut off any stem overhang, the next masterpiece of an idea instantly came to me - I'll drill divots in the top of the stem remains and start hammering the stem sleeve in on itself with a punch:
Well, aluminum is thick, apparently, and somehow stiff. So that idea was brilliant, but not quite brilliant enough. Can't it see I'm just trying to help it?
So then I drilled two little holes where the divots were to 'create' some pins sticking out and that could be clamped and used to release the stem sleeve. Result: bent tension release pins (i.e. nails)
Things were starting to look fun/dim. It was around this time that language became less child-friendly, hammers got bigger, and tools were gently set down with more velocity.
I cut another slit in the stem sleeve, started chipping away at it with a chisel/splitter took, and peeled that sucker back. I used the wedge from the bottom side and with a large rod, smacked that sucker home and out it all popped.
What is the difference between this photo and the last one?
There are no more wood blocks clamping on that bastard fork - no more playing nice!
So, coming back to that wedge and it getting stuck. It got it stuck nice and tight. And then hammered more. Once I got it loosened up from the bottom, I felt the inside and felt a nice, big ridge on the inside of the fork and my heart sunk. I had terrible visions of the wedge hammering my steerer tube right in half or significantly weakening it. This is around the time the gloves really came off and things started to get manhandled. Well, once things came apart, I thought I would assess the damage. I started looking closer at the fork and made an important discovery. The steerer tube is internally tapered! Now, this may be the case with most bicycles, but I had done something similar with my PX-10 and that wedge nut just came flying out the bottom of the fork. Surely it would be the same! Right? Surely not.
Well, instead of writing a huge paragraph about this idea (even though I just did) and confusing everyone, I made a handy-dandy illustration. Remember it the next time you work on a frozen stem!
The glorious fuji lives on. The next test will be to see if I knocked my steerer tube threads out of round, in addition to mashing some of them.
#KBF. (Klunker Bikes Forever)
If I am winning, its in the category of 'hella more work than necessary for myself', and if I have to make up that category to win something, I will and will bribe Narhay to include it.
So, I wanted to save the stem, and it was freaking long, so I think we're good there:
Now, I already know what you all are thinking. "Oh no! He left no protruding stem overhang to crush the stem post together when he cuts it, and will be up s*&t creek!"
Well, o naive alarmists, I had a plan. I was going to take a long stem bolt, thread the wedge, the tap the wedge out of the bottom of the steerer tube. That would give me clearance to put something in the bottom of the steerer tube and knock the stem remains up through the top of the steerer tube once I made a cut.
Well, I gingerly cut a slot in the stem chunk, and merrily went on my way to tap out the wedge.
Well, about that.
Turns out, the wedge was getting jammed in the steerer tube. It wasn't coming out the bottom. It went about 2/3rds down and would jam SOLID. Halfway through, I actually thought I had ruined the fork. Yeah, it got that bad.
I had no idea what was going on. I was losing patience and thought maybe I would just get a new fork and scrap this one.
Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
Since I couldn't get the wedge out and I had cut off any stem overhang, the next masterpiece of an idea instantly came to me - I'll drill divots in the top of the stem remains and start hammering the stem sleeve in on itself with a punch:
Well, aluminum is thick, apparently, and somehow stiff. So that idea was brilliant, but not quite brilliant enough. Can't it see I'm just trying to help it?
So then I drilled two little holes where the divots were to 'create' some pins sticking out and that could be clamped and used to release the stem sleeve. Result: bent tension release pins (i.e. nails)
Things were starting to look fun/dim. It was around this time that language became less child-friendly, hammers got bigger, and tools were gently set down with more velocity.
I cut another slit in the stem sleeve, started chipping away at it with a chisel/splitter took, and peeled that sucker back. I used the wedge from the bottom side and with a large rod, smacked that sucker home and out it all popped.
What is the difference between this photo and the last one?
There are no more wood blocks clamping on that bastard fork - no more playing nice!
So, coming back to that wedge and it getting stuck. It got it stuck nice and tight. And then hammered more. Once I got it loosened up from the bottom, I felt the inside and felt a nice, big ridge on the inside of the fork and my heart sunk. I had terrible visions of the wedge hammering my steerer tube right in half or significantly weakening it. This is around the time the gloves really came off and things started to get manhandled. Well, once things came apart, I thought I would assess the damage. I started looking closer at the fork and made an important discovery. The steerer tube is internally tapered! Now, this may be the case with most bicycles, but I had done something similar with my PX-10 and that wedge nut just came flying out the bottom of the fork. Surely it would be the same! Right? Surely not.
Well, instead of writing a huge paragraph about this idea (even though I just did) and confusing everyone, I made a handy-dandy illustration. Remember it the next time you work on a frozen stem!
The glorious fuji lives on. The next test will be to see if I knocked my steerer tube threads out of round, in addition to mashing some of them.
#KBF. (Klunker Bikes Forever)
Last edited by AdventureManCO; 04-10-19 at 06:59 PM.
#80
Virgo
Park Ridge is in NJ, but Marty's isn't there any more. They are in Morristown, Hacketstown, and Randolph. I guess they used to be in Park Ridge. Given how you ride and how much you like that Trek hybrid, this Schwinn may even become your favorite. Then again, you have a Raleigh Competition in your project queue.
Its almost not fair to enter it in the clunker challenge. Nothing clunks and all I had to do was put air in the tires, move the saddle up, and throw some recycled bar tape on it. No challenge. Too good to be true.
#81
WV is not flat..
I’m in. Perfect candidates for the lowest budget(receipt included). The Trek needs cables,but the Fuji is ready to roll. The tires are on the edge,but may risk it on some local 20-30 mile rides to make the 100k for both. I assume Strava screenshots with pics of the bike would be good to document the miles.
#82
The Huffmeister
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The Le Grande HQ
Posts: 2,694
Bikes: '79 Trek 938, '86 Jim Merz Allez SE, '90 Miyata 1000, '68 PX-10, '80 PXN-10, '73 Super Course, '87 Guerciotti, '83 Trek 600, '80 Huffy Le Grande
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I’m in. Perfect candidates for the lowest budget(receipt included). The Trek needs cables,but the Fuji is ready to roll. The tires are on the edge,but may risk it on some local 20-30 mile rides to make the 100k for both. I assume Strava screenshots with pics of the bike would be good to document the miles.
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
@AdventureManCO think of all the stories you have now. I will admit that when I was in a similar stuck stem pickle with an old Raleigh Mixte I was building up for my niece I went the order a replacement sunlite 27" chrome fork on Amazon route. I am sure that Fuji knows whose boss now. Hope you had an adult beverage to celebrate/recover.
@AdventureManCO think of all the stories you have now. I will admit that when I was in a similar stuck stem pickle with an old Raleigh Mixte I was building up for my niece I went the order a replacement sunlite 27" chrome fork on Amazon route. I am sure that Fuji knows whose boss now. Hope you had an adult beverage to celebrate/recover.
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 778
Bikes: Marin Bolinas ridge, Carlton Corsa 5, Falcon Olympic 12, 98 Shesh Rockhopper,
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Excellent, I love this challenge, time to buy something!
#85
Virgo
Schwinn Voyageur - Day 1 - $55 - 20k (12 miles)
First 20k down on this "klunker".
Our first adventure together was this morning's commute, winds out of east steady at 20 and gusting 40, a real puke-fest. I almost wish I hadn't ridden it today, had alittle fair bit of drama figuring out the saddle height/angle.
Kind of cool that it has the factory (or factory option) odometer on the front wheel, will make it easy to track the 100k (well, I guess 62 miles in this case).
While I really really liked the paper-thin super supple skinwalls that were on the bike, they weren't rotted but were definitely a little dry and I didn't trust them to survive my commute so I put on a set of 27" x 1 1/4" Bontrager T1s that I put about 4,000 miles on, on a different bike. They're trusty tires, don't puncture much and still appear to have some good life left in them. For sure they're a little heavy and the ride is a little less inspiring now, but this bike really rides and handles super duper. I'd pay $10 for a set of used tires like these. Bar tape is recycled from a past project bike, was in my parts drawer. I'll put my total so far at $55.
Since I'm a commuter and put in a lot of miles, and since the bike was so cheap and easy so far, I'm thinking about changing up the rules of the challenge for myself and requiring that I keep the bike on the road for the remainder of the 100 days while still keeping the total below $100. But I need a little time to get acquainted with it and see if it really rings my bell, ya know?
Our first adventure together was this morning's commute, winds out of east steady at 20 and gusting 40, a real puke-fest. I almost wish I hadn't ridden it today, had a
Kind of cool that it has the factory (or factory option) odometer on the front wheel, will make it easy to track the 100k (well, I guess 62 miles in this case).
While I really really liked the paper-thin super supple skinwalls that were on the bike, they weren't rotted but were definitely a little dry and I didn't trust them to survive my commute so I put on a set of 27" x 1 1/4" Bontrager T1s that I put about 4,000 miles on, on a different bike. They're trusty tires, don't puncture much and still appear to have some good life left in them. For sure they're a little heavy and the ride is a little less inspiring now, but this bike really rides and handles super duper. I'd pay $10 for a set of used tires like these. Bar tape is recycled from a past project bike, was in my parts drawer. I'll put my total so far at $55.
Since I'm a commuter and put in a lot of miles, and since the bike was so cheap and easy so far, I'm thinking about changing up the rules of the challenge for myself and requiring that I keep the bike on the road for the remainder of the 100 days while still keeping the total below $100. But I need a little time to get acquainted with it and see if it really rings my bell, ya know?
Last edited by Phamilton; 04-11-19 at 09:22 AM. Reason: Added title
#86
The Huffmeister
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The Le Grande HQ
Posts: 2,694
Bikes: '79 Trek 938, '86 Jim Merz Allez SE, '90 Miyata 1000, '68 PX-10, '80 PXN-10, '73 Super Course, '87 Guerciotti, '83 Trek 600, '80 Huffy Le Grande
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Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
@AdventureManCO think of all the stories you have now. I will admit that when I was in a similar stuck stem pickle with an old Raleigh Mixte I was building up for my niece I went the order a replacement sunlite 27" chrome fork on Amazon route. I am sure that Fuji knows whose boss now. Hope you had an adult beverage to celebrate/recover.
@AdventureManCO think of all the stories you have now. I will admit that when I was in a similar stuck stem pickle with an old Raleigh Mixte I was building up for my niece I went the order a replacement sunlite 27" chrome fork on Amazon route. I am sure that Fuji knows whose boss now. Hope you had an adult beverage to celebrate/recover.
Next order of business is to cut the angle on the bottom of the stem, swipe a stem bolt from the junk pile at the co-op, and figure out the brakes. I've got some options there in the parts bin, but most of them are too pretty to be put on this bike.
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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First 20k down on this "klunker".
Our first adventure together was this morning's commute, winds out of east steady at 20 and gusting 40, a real puke-fest. I almost wish I hadn't ridden it today, had alittle fair bit of drama figuring out the saddle height/angle.
Kind of cool that it has the factory (or factory option) odometer on the front wheel, will make it easy to track the 100k (well, I guess 62 miles in this case).
While I really really liked the paper-thin super supple skinwalls that were on the bike, they weren't rotted but were definitely a little dry and I didn't trust them to survive my commute so I put on a set of 27" x 1 1/4" Bontrager T1s that I put about 4,000 miles on, on a different bike. They're trusty tires, don't puncture much and still appear to have some good life left in them. For sure they're a little heavy and the ride is a little less inspiring now, but this bike really rides and handles super duper. I'd pay $10 for a set of used tires like these. Bar tape is recycled from a past project bike, was in my parts drawer. I'll put my total so far at $55.
Since I'm a commuter and put in a lot of miles, and since the bike was so cheap and easy so far, I'm thinking about changing up the rules of the challenge for myself and requiring that I keep the bike on the road for the remainder of the 100 days while still keeping the total below $100. But I need a little time to get acquainted with it and see if it really rings my bell, ya know?
Our first adventure together was this morning's commute, winds out of east steady at 20 and gusting 40, a real puke-fest. I almost wish I hadn't ridden it today, had a
Kind of cool that it has the factory (or factory option) odometer on the front wheel, will make it easy to track the 100k (well, I guess 62 miles in this case).
While I really really liked the paper-thin super supple skinwalls that were on the bike, they weren't rotted but were definitely a little dry and I didn't trust them to survive my commute so I put on a set of 27" x 1 1/4" Bontrager T1s that I put about 4,000 miles on, on a different bike. They're trusty tires, don't puncture much and still appear to have some good life left in them. For sure they're a little heavy and the ride is a little less inspiring now, but this bike really rides and handles super duper. I'd pay $10 for a set of used tires like these. Bar tape is recycled from a past project bike, was in my parts drawer. I'll put my total so far at $55.
Since I'm a commuter and put in a lot of miles, and since the bike was so cheap and easy so far, I'm thinking about changing up the rules of the challenge for myself and requiring that I keep the bike on the road for the remainder of the 100 days while still keeping the total below $100. But I need a little time to get acquainted with it and see if it really rings my bell, ya know?
Last edited by ryansu; 04-11-19 at 01:22 PM.
#88
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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@Phamilton, it's not a factory odometer. That thing never came on a bike originally.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#89
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've been tackling the Fuji, or has it been tackling me? I'm not quite sure.
If I am winning, its in the category of 'hella more work than necessary for myself', and if I have to make up that category to win something, I will and will bribe Narhay to include it.
So, I wanted to save the stem, and it was freaking long, so I think we're good there:
Now, I already know what you all are thinking. "Oh no! He left no protruding stem overhang to crush the stem post together when he cuts it, and will be up s*&t creek!"
Well, o naive alarmists, I had a plan. I was going to take a long stem bolt, thread the wedge, the tap the wedge out of the bottom of the steerer tube. That would give me clearance to put something in the bottom of the steerer tube and knock the stem remains up through the top of the steerer tube once I made a cut.
Well, I gingerly cut a slot in the stem chunk, and merrily went on my way to tap out the wedge.
Well, about that.
Turns out, the wedge was getting jammed in the steerer tube. It wasn't coming out the bottom. It went about 2/3rds down and would jam SOLID. Halfway through, I actually thought I had ruined the fork. Yeah, it got that bad.
I had no idea what was going on. I was losing patience and thought maybe I would just get a new fork and scrap this one.
Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
Since I couldn't get the wedge out and I had cut off any stem overhang, the next masterpiece of an idea instantly came to me - I'll drill divots in the top of the stem remains and start hammering the stem sleeve in on itself with a punch:
Well, aluminum is thick, apparently, and somehow stiff. So that idea was brilliant, but not quite brilliant enough. Can't it see I'm just trying to help it?
So then I drilled two little holes where the divots were to 'create' some pins sticking out and that could be clamped and used to release the stem sleeve. Result: bent tension release pins (i.e. nails)
Things were starting to look fun/dim. It was around this time that language became less child-friendly, hammers got bigger, and tools were gently set down with more velocity.
I cut another slit in the stem sleeve, started chipping away at it with a chisel/splitter took, and peeled that sucker back. I used the wedge from the bottom side and with a large rod, smacked that sucker home and out it all popped.
What is the difference between this photo and the last one?
There are no more wood blocks clamping on that bastard fork - no more playing nice!
So, coming back to that wedge and it getting stuck. It got it stuck nice and tight. And then hammered more. Once I got it loosened up from the bottom, I felt the inside and felt a nice, big ridge on the inside of the fork and my heart sunk. I had terrible visions of the wedge hammering my steerer tube right in half or significantly weakening it. This is around the time the gloves really came off and things started to get manhandled. Well, once things came apart, I thought I would assess the damage. I started looking closer at the fork and made an important discovery. The steerer tube is internally tapered! Now, this may be the case with most bicycles, but I had done something similar with my PX-10 and that wedge nut just came flying out the bottom of the fork. Surely it would be the same! Right? Surely not.
Well, instead of writing a huge paragraph about this idea (even though I just did) and confusing everyone, I made a handy-dandy illustration. Remember it the next time you work on a frozen stem!
The glorious fuji lives on. The next test will be to see if I knocked my steerer tube threads out of round, in addition to mashing some of them.
#KBF. (Klunker Bikes Forever)
If I am winning, its in the category of 'hella more work than necessary for myself', and if I have to make up that category to win something, I will and will bribe Narhay to include it.
So, I wanted to save the stem, and it was freaking long, so I think we're good there:
Now, I already know what you all are thinking. "Oh no! He left no protruding stem overhang to crush the stem post together when he cuts it, and will be up s*&t creek!"
Well, o naive alarmists, I had a plan. I was going to take a long stem bolt, thread the wedge, the tap the wedge out of the bottom of the steerer tube. That would give me clearance to put something in the bottom of the steerer tube and knock the stem remains up through the top of the steerer tube once I made a cut.
Well, I gingerly cut a slot in the stem chunk, and merrily went on my way to tap out the wedge.
Well, about that.
Turns out, the wedge was getting jammed in the steerer tube. It wasn't coming out the bottom. It went about 2/3rds down and would jam SOLID. Halfway through, I actually thought I had ruined the fork. Yeah, it got that bad.
I had no idea what was going on. I was losing patience and thought maybe I would just get a new fork and scrap this one.
Well, there's no sense in ruining a perfectly good piece of junk, is there?
Since I couldn't get the wedge out and I had cut off any stem overhang, the next masterpiece of an idea instantly came to me - I'll drill divots in the top of the stem remains and start hammering the stem sleeve in on itself with a punch:
Well, aluminum is thick, apparently, and somehow stiff. So that idea was brilliant, but not quite brilliant enough. Can't it see I'm just trying to help it?
So then I drilled two little holes where the divots were to 'create' some pins sticking out and that could be clamped and used to release the stem sleeve. Result: bent tension release pins (i.e. nails)
Things were starting to look fun/dim. It was around this time that language became less child-friendly, hammers got bigger, and tools were gently set down with more velocity.
I cut another slit in the stem sleeve, started chipping away at it with a chisel/splitter took, and peeled that sucker back. I used the wedge from the bottom side and with a large rod, smacked that sucker home and out it all popped.
What is the difference between this photo and the last one?
There are no more wood blocks clamping on that bastard fork - no more playing nice!
So, coming back to that wedge and it getting stuck. It got it stuck nice and tight. And then hammered more. Once I got it loosened up from the bottom, I felt the inside and felt a nice, big ridge on the inside of the fork and my heart sunk. I had terrible visions of the wedge hammering my steerer tube right in half or significantly weakening it. This is around the time the gloves really came off and things started to get manhandled. Well, once things came apart, I thought I would assess the damage. I started looking closer at the fork and made an important discovery. The steerer tube is internally tapered! Now, this may be the case with most bicycles, but I had done something similar with my PX-10 and that wedge nut just came flying out the bottom of the fork. Surely it would be the same! Right? Surely not.
Well, instead of writing a huge paragraph about this idea (even though I just did) and confusing everyone, I made a handy-dandy illustration. Remember it the next time you work on a frozen stem!
The glorious fuji lives on. The next test will be to see if I knocked my steerer tube threads out of round, in addition to mashing some of them.
#KBF. (Klunker Bikes Forever)
#90
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Nearly 15 km in with today's after work ride in between rain showers. I have this crazy idea I might ride the 520 as is on a charity ride later this month. The short route anyway
Looking west toward Puget sound and the coming rain
Looking west toward Puget sound and the coming rain
#91
WV is not flat..
#92
Virgo
Schwinn Voyageur - Day 1.8 - $55 - 43k (27miles)
On the ride home from work and a couple short rides around the neighborhood finally got the saddle more or less dialed in. It’s a big change to go from one bike to another I guess, even when they’re more or less the same size (my daily commuter is also a 23” frame), but this bike is 10 lbs lighter and has much different geometry.
The bike is so nice that I can’t conscionably put any more miles on the old grease and bearings, so my quick start out of the gate will be slowed until I have a chance to address properly.
@noglider is right, this is a pretty special bike. I really like the half step plus granny gearing. I haven’t used downtube shifters in a while and the last bike I had them on had them in a different position so my hands were flying all over the place. It must have been a sight.
I test fit the fenders from my daily commuter just out of curiosity this evening. I don’t know yet if I’ll leave them on. They WOULD add value that I might need elsewhere.
I’m happy to slow down and take my time with this one. May be several days between updates.
Thanks everybody so much for kind words on my find. It feels like a gift.
Sorry for poor garage pic.
The bike is so nice that I can’t conscionably put any more miles on the old grease and bearings, so my quick start out of the gate will be slowed until I have a chance to address properly.
@noglider is right, this is a pretty special bike. I really like the half step plus granny gearing. I haven’t used downtube shifters in a while and the last bike I had them on had them in a different position so my hands were flying all over the place. It must have been a sight.
I test fit the fenders from my daily commuter just out of curiosity this evening. I don’t know yet if I’ll leave them on. They WOULD add value that I might need elsewhere.
I’m happy to slow down and take my time with this one. May be several days between updates.
Thanks everybody so much for kind words on my find. It feels like a gift.
Sorry for poor garage pic.
#95
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Thanks @leftthread 'd love to take credit for sleuthing a great deal on the 520 but it was pure dumb luck; right place, right time, right size.
#96
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Location: Eugene, OR
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Went down to the co-op today. Found the first component piece that I’ll build the French frame clunker around. I’ve always want to try a 1x5!
Frame: free plus $30 credit for parts sold
Suntour rear shift lever: $3
=
$27 credit remaining
Frame: free plus $30 credit for parts sold
Suntour rear shift lever: $3
=
$27 credit remaining
#97
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Le Cinq Vitesse Or you could just go with Cinq for short - and avoid rides requiring climbing spencer's butte lol
#98
Senior Member
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Location: Eugene, OR
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I removed the Arabesque crankset set from the sales forum as I’m contemplating using it with just the 45t chainring and an Atom 14-24 in the back
EDIT: What’da ya know!? As soon as I mentioned using the Arabesque, I get reply for it from my CL ad. I’ve had it listed here, and there for two weeks with no hits. Anyhow it’s gone now. I’ll dig something up at the co-op.
Last edited by deux jambes; 04-12-19 at 04:41 PM.
#99
The Huffmeister
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The Le Grande HQ
Posts: 2,694
Bikes: '79 Trek 938, '86 Jim Merz Allez SE, '90 Miyata 1000, '68 PX-10, '80 PXN-10, '73 Super Course, '87 Guerciotti, '83 Trek 600, '80 Huffy Le Grande
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100 replies....100 more things to go wrong as I pull the 165mm cranks off the Fuji today and inspect the bottom bracket that wont turn more than 1cm at the pedals. Stay tuned.
#100
Sempiternal Newb
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 656
Bikes: '92 Trek 750, '85 Univega Gran Turismo, '95 Stumpjumper,
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I took a trip down to Po' Man's Bike Dump, and found myself a date with destiny for $20:
It wasn't what I was looking for, but it's what I got. They had some big trees topple over in the hurricane, so most of the dump is inaccessible. At any rate, it's all there: low budget Suntour Accushift, Lee Chi Sine Power brakes, and plastic brake levers. Perfect! I'll give it an overhaul this weekend and try to go the 100K in one shot. I don't have a lot of free time for riding these days, and to be honest I don't want to spend it riding this!
It wasn't what I was looking for, but it's what I got. They had some big trees topple over in the hurricane, so most of the dump is inaccessible. At any rate, it's all there: low budget Suntour Accushift, Lee Chi Sine Power brakes, and plastic brake levers. Perfect! I'll give it an overhaul this weekend and try to go the 100K in one shot. I don't have a lot of free time for riding these days, and to be honest I don't want to spend it riding this!