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Shimano HB-M475

Old 11-18-10, 05:50 PM
  #1  
electrik
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Shimano HB-M475

Looking for a replacement hub, not sure is anybody else has replaced one with something better. Here are the measurements:

flange diameters: 61mm
over lock nut: 100mm
centre to flange-L: 24.2mm
centre to flange-r: 35.2mm

It is a disc hub, trying to not spend more money on this wheel by buying new spokes.

edit: Maybe the shimano m756? The rest matches basically but, centre to flange-L is 35.8... which puts the spoke about 2mm longer, perhaps a longer nipple on one side?

Last edited by electrik; 11-18-10 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 11-18-10, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by electrik
Looking for a replacement hub, not sure is anybody else has replaced one with something better. Here are the measurements:

flange diameters: 61mm
over lock nut: 100mm
centre to flange-L: 24.2mm
centre to flange-r: 35.2mm


It is a disc hub, trying to not spend more money on this wheel by buying new spokes.

edit: Maybe the shimano m756? The rest matches basically but, centre to flange-L is 35.8... which puts the spoke about 2mm longer, perhaps a longer nipple on one side?
Something is weird- Shimano hubs are all the same dimensions if they're similar: large/small flange, disk/non-disk. Spocalc says the center-to-flange (left) distance for that hub is 21.1mm.
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Old 11-18-10, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
Something is weird- Shimano hubs are all the same dimensions if they're similar: large/small flange, disk/non-disk. Spocalc says the center-to-flange (left) distance for that hub is 21.1mm.
Ok, here is where i'm getting that measurement, I haven't unlaced this wheel yet...

edit:
Using 21.1 it shortens the spoke by .2mm

Last edited by electrik; 11-18-10 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 11-18-10, 07:21 PM
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Shimano has two people editing their document - and they don't communicate with each other:

1. The one doing most of the edits measures to the outside of the flange - not the flange center as most people do. So you'll have to subtract 1.6mm for each flange offset in rough terms to get the "flange center" oriented value. Standard alloy hub flanges are 3.2mm thickness. Campy does the same thing...

They do get hole-to-hole diameters correct - however there are two disc hubs in the Shimano document that are erroneous. I come back again to post those...

2. The other person who does minor edits measures to center of flange correctly - and like the major editor gets the hole-to-hole diameters correct.

=8-)
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Old 11-18-10, 07:33 PM
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Shimano Dura Ace Front 7900 is listed as hole-to-hole 48.4mm

It's actually 38.4mm


Shimano XT Disc Front M758 is listed as hole-to-hole 68.6mm/64.6mm

It's actually 58.6mm/54.6mm


The Dura Front error came to light as a result of a gentlement here who built one up as part of an upgrade for his two bike - one being a really nice black and white Schwinn.

=8-)

You should be able to swap in any Shimano Disc front that has the same hole-to-hole flange diameters. (FH-M525 for example.)

=8-)
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
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Old 11-18-10, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mrrabbit
Shimano Dura Ace Front 7900 is listed as hole-to-hole 48.4mm

It's actually 38.4mm


Shimano XT Disc Front M758 is listed as hole-to-hole 68.6mm/64.6mm

It's actually 58.6mm/54.6mm


The Dura Front error came to light as a result of a gentlement here who built one up as part of an upgrade for his two bike - one being a really nice black and white Schwinn.

=8-)

You should be able to swap in any Shimano Disc front that has the same hole-to-hole flange diameters. (FH-M525 for example.)

=8-)
Ah, thanks again Mr. Rabbit!
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Old 11-18-10, 08:26 PM
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when i first saw that chart, i felt like an idiot for measuring hubs by hand in the past. but, come to find out they're not accurate measurements? I'm all about the measuring again. Thanks, mr rabbit.

To the OP: it's a front hub. I'd just get a new front hub, just like the old one. What killed the hub? It may be cheaper/easier to just buy a new m475, and swap it's guts into the old hub's shell. Of course, if the shell/flange was damaged, that won't work out so well... FWIW, it is often possible to "upgrade" a lower-end shimano hub buy buying a more expensive shimano hub and using the nicer dustcovers/cones/bearings on the old shell.

-rob
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Old 11-18-10, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by surreal
when i first saw that chart, i felt like an idiot for measuring hubs by hand in the past. but, come to find out they're not accurate measurements? I'm all about the measuring again. Thanks, mr rabbit.

To the OP: it's a front hub. I'd just get a new front hub, just like the old one. What killed the hub? It may be cheaper/easier to just buy a new m475, and swap it's guts into the old hub's shell. Of course, if the shell/flange was damaged, that won't work out so well... FWIW, it is often possible to "upgrade" a lower-end shimano hub buy buying a more expensive shimano hub and using the nicer dustcovers/cones/bearings on the old shell.

-rob
Hey Rob, well that is just it. The hub has no seals, only a cap to prevent large particles from getting in. I'm tired of continually servicing it and one of the races is pitting. For the price, $40, for the HB-M756 hub online i'll just upgrade.
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Old 11-18-10, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by electrik
Hey Rob, well that is just it. The hub has no seals, only a cap to prevent large particles from getting in. I'm tired of continually servicing it and one of the races is pitting. For the price, $40, for the HB-M756 hub online i'll just upgrade.
Is the current hub missing any parts, or are you just unhappy with the unsealed design of the m475? The m576 isn't much different; all shimano hubs are unsealed cup/cone jobs. That being said, the late-model xt rear hub on my LHT is effing awesome, and i've yet to take it apart for service. Been quite a few miles, too...

-rob

ps-replacing the whole hub is a great idea, if the cup's race is pitted...
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Old 11-18-10, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by surreal
Is the current hub missing any parts, or are you just unhappy with the unsealed design of the m475? The m576 isn't much different; all shimano hubs are unsealed cup/cone jobs. That being said, the late-model xt rear hub on my LHT is effing awesome, and i've yet to take it apart for service. Been quite a few miles, too...

-rob

ps-replacing the whole hub is a great idea, if the cup's race is pitted...
I tried to fit some older seals on it.. but the way the right flange is, iirc... there is no purchase to rest the seal's lip. Yes the race is pitted, unfortunately a bit of surface rust developed inside on something and i didn't catch it.
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Old 11-18-10, 10:24 PM
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The M756 or XT hubs as well as the XTR Hubs differ in one key area in addition to a little better seal. They have Boron coating in the bearing race. This is an ultra hard coating and extends the service life of the higher end Shimano hubs. You can find this oating in the Ultegra and Durace hubs as well.
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Old 11-18-10, 11:21 PM
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I'm guessing this is a rear hub.
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Old 11-18-10, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshua A.C. New
I'm guessing this is a rear hub.
With 100mm over locknut spacing, that would be a front hub.
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Old 11-19-10, 12:23 AM
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Joshua caught my mistake - it's HB-M525...I wish Shimano has used FH for front hub and used another designation for rear hub...such as RH for example...
...

=8-)
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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Old 11-19-10, 11:35 AM
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https://bike.shimano.com/publish/cont...ub%20Specs.pdf
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Old 11-19-10, 11:53 AM
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Just curious--why are you replacing the hub? Did it get damaged somehow? Seems like one usually wants to replace the rim first...
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Old 11-19-10, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by peripatetic
Just curious--why are you replacing the hub? Did it get damaged somehow? Seems like one usually wants to replace the rim first...
Do you make an effort at all to read a thread before posting? Sure occasionally we slip on multi-page threads...but this is not one..

=8-)
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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