Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#276
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my stem has a cable stop on it and my rear brake is a u brake under the chainstay, so i'm looking for either the "inline" kind or preferably something that goes into a cable stop
#277
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I wonder if these would work. Cheap enough that even if they don't work, you haven't thrown away a fortune.
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Produc...28_-1___202419
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Produc...28_-1___202419
#278
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yeah i'd prefer something that goes into the cable stop itself, kinda like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TEAMSSX-New-...item4608b2a20a
these inline ones look pretty nice though
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jagwire-...item1e73a5ae06
they're all cheap but if anyone has a specific brand/model and recommend them i'd love to hear it
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TEAMSSX-New-...item4608b2a20a
these inline ones look pretty nice though
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jagwire-...item1e73a5ae06
they're all cheap but if anyone has a specific brand/model and recommend them i'd love to hear it
Last edited by frantik; 10-28-12 at 06:35 PM.
#279
)) <> ((
this. exactly. except not by a large margin, but by some.
#280
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I decided to look for a bit lighter vintage mtb frame and switch the parts over from the Univega mtb I built up this week.
(See earlier post)
I picked up a prob 1989 or 90 Specialized Hardrock & it is considerably lighter.
Totally dissembled the 23" Hardrock weighs:
6.2 lbs for frame & 1.8 for fork for 8.0 lbs total, a full
2 lbs lighter than Uni weighing in at 7.4 for frame & 2.6 for fork.
I know the Hardrock was not one of their higher end frames and the sticker indicates this one was
made in Taiwan & designed in the USA but the construction appears to be well done
and the welds are very neatly done.
As to the tubing on the Hardrock the stickers show 'custom grade CroMo'
so I do not know if it is butted or not but I expect it is being so much lighter than the Uni which the tubing sticker shows 3 main tubes as CroMo but does not say butted.
Makes me wonder how much lighter some of the higher end mtbs might be.
I plan on transferring the parts over to the Hardrock.
I really do not care for the magenta, white & purple
'Miami Vice' style colors on it so I might have it powder coated or just rattle can it.
(See earlier post)
I picked up a prob 1989 or 90 Specialized Hardrock & it is considerably lighter.
Totally dissembled the 23" Hardrock weighs:
6.2 lbs for frame & 1.8 for fork for 8.0 lbs total, a full
2 lbs lighter than Uni weighing in at 7.4 for frame & 2.6 for fork.
I know the Hardrock was not one of their higher end frames and the sticker indicates this one was
made in Taiwan & designed in the USA but the construction appears to be well done
and the welds are very neatly done.
As to the tubing on the Hardrock the stickers show 'custom grade CroMo'
so I do not know if it is butted or not but I expect it is being so much lighter than the Uni which the tubing sticker shows 3 main tubes as CroMo but does not say butted.
Makes me wonder how much lighter some of the higher end mtbs might be.
I plan on transferring the parts over to the Hardrock.
I really do not care for the magenta, white & purple
'Miami Vice' style colors on it so I might have it powder coated or just rattle can it.
#282
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Another thing I like about the Top Mount Cross Levers is they have a nice barrel adjuster.
With one also on the cable hanger I have 2 places for adjustment.
#283
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saw this one with stem shifters over in the commuter forum.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...0#post14902000
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...0#post14902000
#284
Senior Member
Cable adjusters - I used a front hanger with an adjuster on it. For the rear (I also have a u-brake) I just stuck a cheap barrel adjuster in the downtube housing stop. It's a bit snug but it works.
#287
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i finally got all my parts in today.. but when i went to put the drop bar in the quill stem, i found I can't get past the curve at the tops i'm not sure how much i can even spread this stem.. might have to find one with a removable faceplate to finish this off
anybody recommend a "dirt drop" style stem with a 25.6 clamp diameter with removable faceplate?
anybody recommend a "dirt drop" style stem with a 25.6 clamp diameter with removable faceplate?
Last edited by frantik; 11-02-12 at 07:19 PM.
#289
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#290
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thanks.. that one is as ugly as it is cheap i wish i could use the nice Nitto stem i have but even after spreading the clamp i get to a point where the stem hits the flared drop and can't go any further. at least one person has trimmed the bar to solve this problem, but i'm gonna look for a suitable stem first...
#291
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There was someone on Ebay selling Salsa 26.0 stems with a 2 bolt faceplate.These aren't the "recall" stems, so you're safe. I have one that is about 100mm I use for my flat bars, but it doesn't have much rise. One option is to use a quill adapter and a threadless stem. I ended up going with a set of Nitto bars that don't have as much flare as the Woodchippers...an added plus is that they are similar to what came on MB-1s in 1987, so I got the right look down by using that particular bar/stem combo. I'm using a Nitto Dirt Drop stem...
thanks.. that one is as ugly as it is cheap i wish i could use the nice Nitto stem i have but even after spreading the clamp i get to a point where the stem hits the flared drop and can't go any further. at least one person has trimmed the bar to solve this problem, but i'm gonna look for a suitable stem first...
#292
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thanks.. i think i'm going to go with the origin 8 "sport classique" stem (see thread, unless i can source something locally. i have a buddy who says he has a bunch of stems so i'm hoping he's got something at his shop
and it turns out the Cane Creek levers i got are pretty much the same thing as the Tektro R200A levers.. there is even R200 stamped into the lever on the cane creek LOL. i could have probably saved myself $10 and gone with the tektros..oh well
and it turns out the Cane Creek levers i got are pretty much the same thing as the Tektro R200A levers.. there is even R200 stamped into the lever on the cane creek LOL. i could have probably saved myself $10 and gone with the tektros..oh well
#293
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Cane Creeks are made by Tektro...Where I'm at, I find it easier to find Cane Creeks than Tektros...Have you tried lubing the bars before threading them thru the stem? Just a light layer of lube that can be cleaned off later before you wrap the bars.I thought I read somewhere about making a wedge out of wood to hold open the stem clamp without damaging it...better than prying with a screwdriver...less chance of marring a nice Nitto stem...:-)
#294
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i made a mistake, it's a sakae stem.. still nice though. it did get a tiny bit gashed up but it's not really noticeable. i don't think i need to spread it any farther to get it on. it's the way the woodchipper is shaped; if it were a "normal" drop bar, it would fit fine. the stem needs to be turned a certain way to go around a curve. but i can't turn it that way because the bar hits them end of the stem. i've tried putting grease on the bar and the stem but it didn't help.
I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...
as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...
as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
#295
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Ya that what I did too...You are right in looking toward getting a stem with a removable faceplate.I have to figure out a way of posting a picture of my MB-1... :-)
i made a mistake, it's a sakae stem.. still nice though. it did get a tiny bit gashed up but it's not really noticeable. i don't think i need to spread it any farther to get it on. it's the way the woodchipper is shaped; if it were a "normal" drop bar, it would fit fine. the stem needs to be turned a certain way to go around a curve. but i can't turn it that way because the bar hits them end of the stem. i've tried putting grease on the bar and the stem but it didn't help.
I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...
as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...
as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
#296
Senior Member
there are also xlc levers that you can find for a few bucks, maybe 5 less than tektros, but they are tektros. i have the 340 version
#298
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#299
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here it is.
Got it for $100 in very stange form with mustache handlebars ... changed gearing, canti brakes to V, bar, 2 sets of levers, wheels to Tioga w/Deore, fork and headset to threadless , saddle....
Lots of fun on single track.
Got it for $100 in very stange form with mustache handlebars ... changed gearing, canti brakes to V, bar, 2 sets of levers, wheels to Tioga w/Deore, fork and headset to threadless , saddle....
Lots of fun on single track.
#300
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I really love those Eighties 2 tone paint jobs Specialized used. Gaudy is good! BTW, nice bike.