Power output
#26
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Your 910 will work, especially with a quick release kit to go on the bars.
You may find you want something with a larger screen, but use your FR for now. But something else when the time is right.
I've been using a Fenix watch as a head unit for years. Not great for intervals, but ok for everything else.
You may find you want something with a larger screen, but use your FR for now. But something else when the time is right.
I've been using a Fenix watch as a head unit for years. Not great for intervals, but ok for everything else.
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Ok if I go with a 4iiii that seems the easiest because I just swap a crank arm, If I like it I can upgrade otherwise I am not out a lot cash at $300. My question which may be stupid but what to I use for the head unit. I have a Garmin 910xt. This is the triathlon watch that you can take off the band and put on bike. Would that work of do I need something else?
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Wow this is a helpful thread so now do any of you use the crank based 4iiii. My thinking is I am a shimano person and have 6800 groupset which is prefect in shifting but I am a bike mechanic so I know what to do. I was juct thinking the whole 6800 crankset for a double sided output is $999 that is more than double. Power meter City has the 6800 left crank for $300. Some one give me a thought on what they use or if I am going up the tree correct?
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I recently got a used Dura Ace 2nd generation Stages meter for $150 off Ebay. Looked almost new. Works.
It wasn't 172.5, but even so, a used crank could be had for $75 if you found a good deal on a used meter.
People blow that much on one set of bib and jersey.
It wasn't 172.5, but even so, a used crank could be had for $75 if you found a good deal on a used meter.
People blow that much on one set of bib and jersey.
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Wow this is a helpful thread so now do any of you use the crank based 4iiii. My thinking is I am a shimano person and have 6800 groupset which is prefect in shifting but I am a bike mechanic so I know what to do. I was juct thinking the whole 6800 crankset for a double sided output is $999 that is more than double. Power meter City has the 6800 left crank for $300. Some one give me a thought on what they use or if I am going up the tree correct?
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I imagine if I call & tell them a complete system, rings, meter, bottom bracket for a standard 68mm BSA they'll know what to send. I priced it out and came up with $948 all together. So...only $600 more than the C1 rings.
I think I'll at least look at single side crank arms, Ebay/craigslist, etc...that's more my budget as a gift for a bike that isn't even mine.
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Ok. I was thinking like if it needed a special torque to be accurate like some pedals (Pioneer?) or for accurate readings after chainring replacement (C1), or crankarm removal like some single sided, or some other complication concerning repeatative assembly/disassembly cycles or something
I imagine if I call & tell them a complete system, rings, meter, bottom bracket for a standard 68mm BSA they'll know what to send. I priced it out and came up with $948 all together. So...only $600 more than the C1 rings.
I think I'll at least look at single side crank arms, Ebay/craigslist, etc...that's more my budget as a gift for a bike that isn't even mine.
I imagine if I call & tell them a complete system, rings, meter, bottom bracket for a standard 68mm BSA they'll know what to send. I priced it out and came up with $948 all together. So...only $600 more than the C1 rings.
I think I'll at least look at single side crank arms, Ebay/craigslist, etc...that's more my budget as a gift for a bike that isn't even mine.
How are you coming up with that pricing? NGeco are $490 if you already have a compatible crank (which isn't terribly common, given the popularity of one-piece spindle/spider/DS crankarm); if you don't have one, then you add one, but they often have FSAs for free or my Rotor which was $150, IIRC - definitely some low-cost options.
Not sure why you're adding the rings and bb to the equation, either - if your existing rings/bb are in good shape, use them. If they're not in good shape, then it's a cost that you're going to incur either way and shouldn't be included.
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No, no complicated set-up.
How are you coming up with that pricing? NGeco are $490 if you already have a compatible crank (which isn't terribly common, given the popularity of one-piece spindle/spider/DS crankarm); if you don't have one, then you add one, but they often have FSAs for free or my Rotor which was $150, IIRC - definitely some low-cost options.
Not sure why you're adding the rings and bb to the equation, either - if your existing rings/bb are in good shape, use them. If they're not in good shape, then it's a cost that you're going to incur either way and shouldn't be included.
How are you coming up with that pricing? NGeco are $490 if you already have a compatible crank (which isn't terribly common, given the popularity of one-piece spindle/spider/DS crankarm); if you don't have one, then you add one, but they often have FSAs for free or my Rotor which was $150, IIRC - definitely some low-cost options.
Not sure why you're adding the rings and bb to the equation, either - if your existing rings/bb are in good shape, use them. If they're not in good shape, then it's a cost that you're going to incur either way and shouldn't be included.
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Wow this is a helpful thread so now do any of you use the crank based 4iiii. My thinking is I am a shimano person and have 6800 groupset which is prefect in shifting but I am a bike mechanic so I know what to do. I was juct thinking the whole 6800 crankset for a double sided output is $999 that is more than double. Power meter City has the 6800 left crank for $300. Some one give me a thought on what they use or if I am going up the tree correct?
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The cool thing about the C1 when I bought my bike was just a ring swap with no change orders.
I'll call and ask them what they can do, what their experience is & the cost difference to change is. Thanks for the help.
Aaron
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Stages, Pioneer, Power Tap, Shimano, Quark, SRM, et al. There are a wide variety of power meters that are crank or hub based, and it's pretty easy to come up with a decent power meter under $500, possibly under $400.
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I bought Powertap P1 pedals and when you own a power meter, you will find that power is measured differently. There is 3 second power, average power, nominal power, etc. Average power usually isn't a good stat to go by because if you free wheel at all, it is included into that number. I've gone 17.8 and barely doing 130 watts and I've also gone 17.8 doing 260 watts depending upon the wind or if you're drafting.
FWIW, I include zero power times (like free wheeling downhill) but do not include power measurements when I am stopped (although that isn't much on the routes that I ride). And I find average power a useful indicator.
dave
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I am bummed.
Didn’t mean to thread jack but this got my bp up! I hope they bring a version back
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No one seems to be selling P1s new anymore, but you can still buy the P2. Not that there seems to be a good reason to, at least DC Rainmaker thinks there's no point buying the P2 over Favero Assiomas that are substantially cheaper.
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Pedal based would be fine if anyone used shimano cleats. Not going to switch out for all my bikes. I will ride out my C1 as long as i can then see what’s available for under $500. Just wish I would have purchased another when i had the chance
#43
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I bought Powertap P1 pedals and when you own a power meter, you will find that power is measured differently. There is 3 second power, average power, nominal power, etc. Average power usually isn't a good stat to go by because if you free wheel at all, it is included into that number. I've gone 17.8 and barely doing 130 watts and I've also gone 17.8 doing 260 watts depending upon the wind or if you're drafting.
#44
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My point about average power not being a good stat to go by was based on if your doing hills or intervals. As an example, your power may be low getting out to the hill or where you do intervals, and it may be low coming back. That doesn't mean you didn't put in a good effort if your overall power average isn't high.
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My point about average power not being a good stat to go by was based on if your doing hills or intervals. As an example, your power may be low getting out to the hill or where you do intervals, and it may be low coming back. That doesn't mean you didn't put in a good effort if your overall power average isn't high.
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#46
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My point about average power not being a good stat to go by was based on if your doing hills or intervals. As an example, your power may be low getting out to the hill or where you do intervals, and it may be low coming back. That doesn't mean you didn't put in a good effort if your overall power average isn't high.
For many riders/rides, average power over the whole ride isn't terribly meaningful. You don't want the warm up and cool down included in your intervals. I do a 20 MMP regularly, it sucks, I have to ride a while to get to a series of roads I can thrown down on. What I average for those 20 minutes matters, but not what I did limping home.
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The lap button is so useful. I don't think cyclists use it as much as we could. It's for anything you want stats for, doesn't have to be actual laps. When I do mixed surface rides, the lap button is how I know how many miles of gravel and how many of pavement I covered.
Lap button
Lap button
#48
SuperGimp
Wow this is a helpful thread so now do any of you use the crank based 4iiii. My thinking is I am a shimano person and have 6800 groupset which is prefect in shifting but I am a bike mechanic so I know what to do. I was juct thinking the whole 6800 crankset for a double sided output is $999 that is more than double. Power meter City has the 6800 left crank for $300. Some one give me a thought on what they use or if I am going up the tree correct?
I'm not a racer by any stretch, but have power meters on both of my bikes. Primarily to use as "fuel gauges," because I'm an idiot. I absolutely cannot ride by RPE, and the same goes for food/water intake based on time or miles. Watching the rate of work done tells me when to put fuel back in. You'd think after a few years I'd get a handle on it, but you would be mistaken. If anything, I've gotten worse.
#49
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The last worthwhile computer Garmin produced was the Edge 500.
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I'll never buy a watch that's not a Garmin again.
Garmin watches are the best bike computers available, and also fantastic for running, hiking, skiing, and lifting.
Garmin watches are the best bike computers available, and also fantastic for running, hiking, skiing, and lifting.