I can't extract sealed bearings out of hub
01-22-19, 06:33 AM
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I can't extract sealed bearings out of hub
Hi.
I am servicing the rear hub of my Giant XTC Advanced 29” 1.5 2017. According to Giant, the hub is manufactured by Formula. I have not found any service manual and neither Giant nor Formula have answered my requests.
I am unable to extract the bearings. I'm tapping hard from the side of pawls, bearings are supposed so be released in the other side but instead they don't move a milimeter and I am afraid of tapping even harder. What am I missing?
Is it maybe a blind installation? Or maybe it is removable the part of the hub where the pawls are and once opened the bearings then are extracted from that side instead of usual.
I can't upload pictures, please let me know to share.
Thanks and regards.
UPDATE: Finally, the pictures.
I am servicing the rear hub of my Giant XTC Advanced 29” 1.5 2017. According to Giant, the hub is manufactured by Formula. I have not found any service manual and neither Giant nor Formula have answered my requests.
I am unable to extract the bearings. I'm tapping hard from the side of pawls, bearings are supposed so be released in the other side but instead they don't move a milimeter and I am afraid of tapping even harder. What am I missing?
Is it maybe a blind installation? Or maybe it is removable the part of the hub where the pawls are and once opened the bearings then are extracted from that side instead of usual.
I can't upload pictures, please let me know to share.
Thanks and regards.
UPDATE: Finally, the pictures.
Last edited by patricio.montes; 01-24-19 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Adding pictures.
01-22-19, 07:30 AM
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I found this --while not a Formula wheel, looks like the removal may be similar. Looks like you may need a special tool, or take it to a bike shop which should have one:
01-22-19, 10:34 PM
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Aluminum hub & steel bearings?
Heat with a hair dryer.
Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than steel.
If nothing else, it might help break any "corrosive bond" between the 2 parts.
Heat with a hair dryer.
Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than steel.
If nothing else, it might help break any "corrosive bond" between the 2 parts.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
01-23-19, 03:38 PM
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Thanks everyone. Fortunately it is solved by nudging the spacer to one side, then punching the outer bearing. The inner bearing was held by a circlip. As soon as the system permits it, I will upload the pictures anyway. Thanks!
Last edited by patricio.montes; 01-24-19 at 03:51 PM.
01-24-19, 03:52 PM
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I have finally been able to upload the pictures, as promised. Thanks again.
06-09-21, 08:03 AM
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Hi,
May I ask what the exact model of this Formula freehub is?
What bearings does it use? Can't make out the number from the pic!
Thanks
May I ask what the exact model of this Formula freehub is?
What bearings does it use? Can't make out the number from the pic!
Thanks
06-09-21, 11:05 AM
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Thank you for the pix and followup. Retaining clips are more common in heavier machinery for positive bearing
placement but are a bit of a surprise in bicycle level mechanisms, especially in hidden locations like this. Something
to think about for the DIY and shop mechanic when things don't go as expected before the 2# sledge is brought out.
placement but are a bit of a surprise in bicycle level mechanisms, especially in hidden locations like this. Something
to think about for the DIY and shop mechanic when things don't go as expected before the 2# sledge is brought out.
07-09-21, 11:43 AM
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07-09-21, 02:57 PM
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I use the kitchen oven set to 350 for about 5 or 10 minutes. Expands the outer body more then the bearings. Makes knocking (and many need more then a "tap") out the bearings far easier. I do the same FH body heating on reassembly, with the bearings cold. Best done with a very clean FH body and the wife out of the house
Andy
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