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Converting from IGH to rear derailleur system

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Converting from IGH to rear derailleur system

Old 05-20-19, 05:12 PM
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elizilla 
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Converting from IGH to rear derailleur system

Hello,

Because of disability I am in process of heavily modifying a bike. (Trike, actually. It is a Pfiff Primo. It suits my requirements in ways I won't get into here; I'll just say I want to stick with it.) I would like to convert it from an internally geared hub with a coaster brake, to a rear derailleur and freewheel type of gearing. This trike already has a good rim brake on the rear wheel, so losing the coaster brake is fine, don't worry about that.

The problem I am struggling with is the derailleur hanger. There are a zillion derailleur hangers out there but every one of them is designed for a specific frame, and none are for this bike since this bike didn't come with a derailleur.

This bike does not have any bosses for a hanger. The dropouts are angled down and forward.

I have a friend who is a precision machinist, who would help me make something. But she's not a bicyclist, so I need to figure out what the end result should be, so I can explain it to her. I am thinking we can make a part that is held in by the axle nuts but also fits around the shape of the stays, so it won't move. Maybe use the rack mounting point as part of where we attach it. I'm sure we can figure something out. And I visited the Park Tool page here: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment

I will buy or borrow that tool!

Probably go with the familiar Shimano Deore, though I am open to other suggestions.

My question is this: According to the Park Tool site, we have to get the threaded hole the derailleur attaches to, in just the correct plane to line up with the sprockets. But it is silent about all the other dimensions. Is it OK to just wing it, pick something that seems right, like, by comparing to other bikes and get the same general relationship between the axle and the derailleur attachment point? At which point we just adjust the limit screws and index screw to put it through its paces? Or is there something else I need to do to get it right?

Or, does anyone know of a pre-made, generic hanger that might work for me, without having to machine a custom part?

Thanks!

Last edited by elizilla; 05-20-19 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 05-20-19, 07:47 PM
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The threading for rear derailleur attaching bolts is M10x1.0 so you need a hole in the adapter of that dimension. Older and cheap bikes use a "claw" rear derailleur mount which is a bracket the rear derailleur bolts to and is then clamped in place between the rear dropout and the rear axle fixing nut or qr skewer nut. You might be able to rig something along those lines or, better, get a commercial claw to adapt like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shima.../dp/B001PT8M8C .
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Old 05-20-19, 08:37 PM
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Buy a claw as HillRider suggests, and have the local bike shop do the alignment for you. The tool is not inexpensive and unless you align lot of hangers it is cheaper to pay the shop.
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Old 05-20-19, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by elizilla

Or, does anyone know of a pre-made, generic hanger that might work for me, without having to machine a custom part?

Thanks!
I'd be concerned that the hubs are the same width. What's the width from dropout to dropout? I'd like to know how you're going to adapt a derailleur hub to your frame.

As above, a derailleur "claw" will work. These are very common and dirt cheap:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=88608

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Old 05-21-19, 07:30 AM
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Ah! "Claw". This is the search term I need. Thanks!

In learning about derailleur hangers I realized this is an adjustment that has caused me annoyance in the past and that I would love to be able to fix it next time. And I am a tool collector anyways. So I already ordered that alignment tool.

Hard to get precise measurement between the dropouts without taking the wheel out, which I don't want to do this morning. But it seems to be around 135 mm. Sheldon Brown says current common freewheels and cassettes are also around 135mm. It doesn't look like I will have any trouble with frame width. Not like when I wanted to upgrade my 1980s 10-speed.
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Old 05-21-19, 07:37 AM
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Re. the rear hub spacing (Over Locknut Dimension, or OLD), if you know the model of hub the bike came with you can likely look up the specs for that one item and it will include the OLD...

or just measure it when you get a chance to take the wheel out.

Cool looking trike, BTW. I was not familiar with that brand.
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Old 05-21-19, 09:03 AM
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& a budget RD can be found with a built in hanger..

I happen to like my IGH better than the old derailleur bikes , but I Invested in Nice ones..


A 135 wide frame is a good fit for a Shimano Alfine 11 speed IGH...

3 speeds in typical trikes need a sprocket attached to the hub body, turning at a different rate than the crank driven cog ..
but you may find a 6 bolt cog to fit in place of a brake disc, in a hub, not in a wheel ,


to then drive the axle attached to the drive shaft with 1 of 2 wheels in back, powered..






....

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Old 05-21-19, 11:43 AM
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for all wondering like me how in the heck do you convert a three wheeler like this.....this pic will help....it is one wheel in back and 2 in front

it is hard to tell but with OP's description and pic it looks like putting a claw hanger on will work

but is would help to understand more of OP's needs to give best suggestions... No coaster brake I get. Is there and issue with gearing ranges? how many gears is current setup

it is possible a wider range IGH may work also budget may make a difference




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Old 05-21-19, 12:22 PM
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OK I will share the reasoning that has led me here.

It's an adaptive machine for me. I have MS and I am too weak to ride a normal bike. It's a trike because while my balance is good, I am not able to get started and stopped on two wheels very well. I can do it once or twice but the effort is huge and it wears me out fast. So, trike. And it's this particular trike because my proprioception is bad enough that I want the paired wheels in front where I can see them, but I cannot get up from the low seat of a tadpole trike. So when I found this Pfiff, it was just the configuration I wanted. I bought it, and spent the extra for the fancier version because I like the suspension. I'm going to install electric pedal assist, and my goal is to make it feel like I have the strength I used to have, when I ride it. Which I am hoping will get me to ride it some more, and help me avoid getting weaker due to inactivity.

In testing this bike without electric assist, I quickly realized the coaster brake is a big problem for me. I don't have any strength at certain points of the pedal stroke, so if I stop in one of those spots, I need the ability to back pedal to a spot that gives me more mechanical advantage. Plus when I am mounting/dismounting, freewheeling would allow me to position the pedals where I can get my feet on them more easily. Anything that will reduce the struggle, will let me use what little strength I do have, for actually riding, instead of just fighting clunky mechanical issues.

Before MS I was a motorcyclist, but before motorcycles, I was a pretty serious bicyclist. New motor skills don't come easily to me these days, and back in the day I rode derailleur bikes, so I am opting for maximum familiarity. Also, there are way more hub motor choices available with derailleur style, than with IGH. So I am going to just change it.

I am planning to just get a prebuilt wheel with the hub motor, instead of cutting the spokes to reuse the stock rim. That way if I decide I want to switch back and try something different, I can.

I find it hugely fun to fiddle with these things and work through the challenges. Part of what I want with this project, is something to constantly mess with. I recently had to sell my last motorcycle so I have a lot of pent up need to mess around in my workshop. Compared to what I had in the motorcycle, bicycle stuff is cheap. So I'm an extremely picky kid in a candy store right now.

I have a lot of the bicycle-specific tools that a serious bicyclist would have had back in 1990 or so. A workstand, a whole bunch of freewheel tools, crank puller, bottom bracket tools, fourth hand, etc. But I never learned about precision bending of derailleur hangers and I never had that tool. Well, I ordered it last night and it can join the collection. This will be fun!
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Old 05-21-19, 12:49 PM
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Oh and I ordered that Claw, too. Amazon Prime, it should be here tomorrow.

I haven't yet ordered the rest of the pieces. I want to make sure I can get past this part first.
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Old 05-21-19, 12:55 PM
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A Mix of Cassette and internal gear hub Sturmey Archer


Oh but you want a hub motor rear wheel? I think those have freewheels

The freewheel, I believe, screws onto a part connected to a sensor ,

for the pedal assist to cut in...


there is an electric bike sub forum here ..










...

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Old 05-21-19, 01:52 PM
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fietsbob,

I do get why you like IGH. They are super neat. But if I want a rear hub motor, there is just one IGH choice, the TDCM motor. It has a five speed Sturmey Archer, it's one of the most expensive choices out there, and it can't be changed. If it's not a wide enough spread of gears that's too bad, it is what it is.

By switching to a derailleur, I get many more options for gearing, and I get something familiar. And as I said, new motor skills don't come easy to me these days, so familiar is good. Plus, I can tell when the gears have changed by sound and by visual inspection, and having things I can see and hear is huge for me since I have such trouble telling what is happening by feel. When I was test riding it with the stock IGH I could barely discern when the gears had changed. IGH is too elegant for me. LOL!

With a derailleur I can get a hub motor with a freewheel or a cassette, both kinds are out there. But either uses the same derailleur. That's why I am here instead of in the electric sub forum or the adaptive/disability sub forum. I hope you guys will let me stay.

The pedal assist is controlled by either a cadence sensor or a torque sensing replacement bottom bracket. I won't subject you to that discussion here, that's one for the electric sub forum.

Last edited by elizilla; 05-21-19 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 05-21-19, 02:35 PM
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Cool project thanks for sharing as it is bit personal..... and yes it crosses forums, but keep this one updated.... do you have any idea what hub motor brand wheel you are going for?
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Old 05-21-19, 02:49 PM
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FWiW there are internal gear cranksets too* , & LBS have converted Mountain bikes with mid drive motors
Hunters get to the top of the hill in the timber lands..

*Of note Efneo GTRO a 3 speed 28t + 2 Overdrives..

crank turns at a different rate than the chainring,,

A gear shift while stopped , I like that .. as a slow mover,,,





...







....

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Old 05-25-19, 08:37 PM
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Just checking back in to let you guys know, I did order that Claw and it fits the bike. So I have gone ahead and ordered a bunch of other parts. I’ll keep you posted as the project continues.
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Old 06-12-19, 10:09 AM
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Here I am back to ask for more advice.

I did order that claw, and it works, it fits my bike. I installed it and I used my new Park derailleur hanger alignment tool to get it perfectly straight. Which was very satisfying. I love having the right tool and using it the right way.

But now I have run into another problem. The rear shifter I ordered does not fit. I need to choose another.

I have a 9-speed cassette on my new hub motor rear wheel. The range is 11x34.
I bought this derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M772
And this shifter: Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever

The bike has the bars shown in the picture Squirtdad posted upthread, which are very ordinary hybrid bars, a little rise and a little swept back. It has an unusual brake lever on the right - it pulls two cables for the brakes on the two front wheels. Can't change that. And also on the right is a twist throttle with a button for reverse; I cannot change that either, not if I want to have reverse!

Well the Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-Speed shift lever fouls on the twist throttle and reverse button. And because of the bend in the bars, the shifter can't be mounted farther towards the center to pull it away from the throttle mount.

So I either need a different shifter, or I need to change to straight bars. I like these bars so I am looking for a different shifter.

Any suggestions?

Can a shifter for 10 or 11 speed rear, also work with my 9 speeds? I have been out of the loop for so long, I don't know how interchangeable these are. But if they do interchange, it at least means more choices.

Last edited by elizilla; 06-12-19 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 06-12-19, 11:06 AM
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send pictures .. does # 8 , above, show your bike?/
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Old 06-12-19, 11:11 AM
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Yes that is my bike in # 8 above. Though I notice that pic leaves out the right brake lever with its two cables. I wonder why the OEM deleted that part from their catalog pic?

I will try to get some pictures of the interfering shifter tonight.

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Old 06-12-19, 12:45 PM
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If it had a coaster brake 3 speed it did not need a rear brake lever, it just has the gear shifting gtip..

I expect they have a cable doubler hiding behind the basket so 1 cable lever input operates both front wheel brakes
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Old 06-12-19, 01:36 PM
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The decision to get rid of the IGH is already made, fietsbob. You can't change my mind on this. Unless you want to offer me some $$ for the parts I am taking off, you should probably just move on.

Anyone other than fietsbob have a suggestion for a derailleur type shifter to use here?
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Old 06-13-19, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by elizilla

Anyone other than fietsbob have a suggestion for a derailleur type shifter to use here?
Microshift makes inexpensive Shimano-compatible shifters as well.

The 'Marvo' is their 9-sp flatbar shifter. Can be had with or without the indicator windows. The LT and XE versions seem to have the shift paddles tucked in a little better than the Deore.




And, no, you won't ever get Fietsbob to stop reccomending IGH. I'm not sure if he even owns a derailleur bike.
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Old 06-13-19, 08:01 AM
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Since tucking in nicely is a problem, I'm avoiding it. But I am glad to hear of Microshift; I had not previously been aware of this brand and they had more choices.

I just chose some of their flat bar thumbies. They were not cheap but right now this shifter thing is holding up my whole project, and they look like the most workable solution. And if they don't work I can send them back. I already have plenty of other things to send back so I'll be going to the post office anyways.
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Old 06-13-19, 08:43 AM
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toured Europe on a couple of them , but I'm getting older.. ...


19 is remarking on the offered picture, you did offer one of yours..



/...

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Old 06-13-19, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by elizilla
Here I am back to ask for more advice.

I did order that claw, and it works, it fits my bike. I installed it and I used my new Park derailleur hanger alignment tool to get it perfectly straight. Which was very satisfying. I love having the right tool and using it the right way.

But now I have run into another problem. The rear shifter I ordered does not fit. I need to choose another.

I have a 9-speed cassette on my new hub motor rear wheel. The range is 11x34.
I bought this derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M772
And this shifter: Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever

The bike has the bars shown in the picture Squirtdad posted upthread, which are very ordinary hybrid bars, a little rise and a little swept back. It has an unusual brake lever on the right - it pulls two cables for the brakes on the two front wheels. Can't change that. And also on the right is a twist throttle with a button for reverse; I cannot change that either, not if I want to have reverse!

Well the Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-Speed shift lever fouls on the twist throttle and reverse button. And because of the bend in the bars, the shifter can't be mounted farther towards the center to pull it away from the throttle mount.

So I either need a different shifter, or I need to change to straight bars. I like these bars so I am looking for a different shifter.

Any suggestions?

Can a shifter for 10 or 11 speed rear, also work with my 9 speeds? I have been out of the loop for so long, I don't know how interchangeable these are. But if they do interchange, it at least means more choices.
pics would really help

can you explains more about the reverse....is it a reverse or a brake lock (had one those on a 3 wheel schwinn i used for a delivery business in high school 40 years ago)

here is a possibility..... https://problemsolversbike.com/produ...mounts_-_27803

might be a bit clunky but you could mount the shifter on this

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Old 06-14-19, 12:07 PM
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If you have OLD=135, you can use 9sp axle mount Saint rear deraileur Shimano RD-M800
(with saint specific rear hub Shimano FH-M800)
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