texaspandj

Nah that's a stock 56cm. The forks look wonky because the small yellow lettering of centurion on the bend of the uni fork is giving it a Square look. Just an illusion. Also that's a Tange decal on the fork.

BFisher

Kick
A**

BFisher

Cell phone snap from today's ride.
It was a good day...

seypat

Look at pic 4 of the ad. The fork has that extra sump sump under the brake attachment hole. The bracing between the blades. It looks like it does anyway. I could be mistaken.

markwesti

I wish that guy would take the time to take some decent pictures , plus now I want that bike .

texaspandj

Boy, if you got that bike! Whoo!

texaspandj

Those are nice, kinda bummer I don't need them.

markwesti

It would prolly be a good thing to get , I'm about ready to hack up the classic . Here is my inspiration (perspiration) .


https://www.bikeradar.com/features/m...e-custom-riva/

easyupbug 

It has become clear my son-in-law will never return my '89 so I bought this nice grey marble only to find while cleaning the following lower headtube lug fail, cracked from near the top of the lug down around the lug downtube joint (brazing fail?) and back up to nearly the top of the lug. Even if I new a fine arts major who could paint a repair to match it is just too much $ to save as I see it. Note what looks to be white paint applied over the crack, if that is the case someone may have ridden it knowing the failure? Anyone need a grey marble fork or a groupset?




Attempt to cover crack?

Hudson308 

That'll buff right out.
Bummer... what size frame/fork steerer? Unicrown?

texaspandj

Nice, looks like you got that thing dialed in. Is that an expert?

BFisher

@texaspandj, Yes - an '87. I've played around with stem length and saddle height here and there, but that last ride really felt like I have it right where I want it.

rccardr 

PM sent

texaspandj

Well I've changed up my Classic. The only thing that was different from my bitd Pinarello that I did my best riding on was the Original first generation gripshift for my 6 speed Dura Ace. And now I have that. Well I guess there was one more thing, the pinarello had a FD tab and if possible I plan on putting one in my Classic...eventually.
Anyways here it is. Although I have the original brake housing, I didn't have enough white cable housing for the shifters so I was forced to use black housing and cables from walmart ($9.98). I'm gonna order some white housing soon though as I'm not digging the black housing at all. I have black housing on my other 3 Ironman but I need white for this one.
I'll tell ya, it wasn't as easy to install these on my aero bars so I used the ones that came with these, although I did disassemble, cleaned and rebuilt with fresh grease. Bitd when I got my first gripshift, I had the LBS install as it required drilling 3 holes each shifter and I had sold all my power tools. Looking at it now, that was a wise decision as theses are a little more complicated but manageable. Also these are better built and shift very smoothly and differently. As in they twist to shift in opposite directions compared to my other 3 Ironman with gripshift. My understanding is they were redesigned a little after they went to 7 speed as some models look like the original 6 speed and some look like the last ones marketed for aero bars. Reportedly, it was too much turning of the wrist that prompted the change.
I like these and I'll give them a good test today on my regular training ride of 26 miles. Down the block and on the stand they were flawless and smooth. When I say smooth I mean not clunky. Currently, only my Miami Vice is clunky, however it could be the 13-26 7 speed freewheel. But my '88 Carbon has a similar gearing and 8 speed cassette

Previous, No gripshift.


Current, with Gripshift.
​​​​​​​. IDK, but I'll figure it out. Plus, if I convert my '89 to strictly a road bike, I'll put it's 7 speed gripshift on my Miami Vice. I've got plans fir my Ironman bikes and they are finally coming together.
Posting the old and new version...I'm not liking the bkack so much but it'll be remedied shortly.

markwesti

I'm good with the black . You could get some black tires , black , black , black .
PS why a FD tab ?

canklecat

FWIW, I put some low priced Sunlite brake cable housing on my bikes recently (Ironman and Trekenstein). I'll probably upgrade soon. The Sunlite housing is competent, but the brake feel is mushy. The entry level coiled housing feels mushy, spongy, and you can see the cable housing compressing while braking. I tried with and without cable housing end caps, plastic and metal. No difference in feel or compression sag. It's the entire cable housing that's the problem.

The original housings (white) felt a bit draggy from age and oxidation, but at least there was little compression and the braking felt fairly positive.

I'll probably switch to Jagwire or Shimano reinforced compressionless brake cable housing soon. Typical road bike brakes are sketchy enough without compromising this much on cheap cable housing.

easyupbug 

58 frame and '89 was a unicrown.

texaspandj

Well I gave the new Vintage gripshift a good go today and all is well. The main difference besides it being bigger than my other 7 and 8 speed gripshift is that you twist to shift in the exact opposite way. So twist right to go to a bigger gear but on the others you twist left.
So a couple of things bummed me out about the new setup. I'm wasn't able to use the original brake cable housing and or the original bar tape. But they'll probably go back on when I get some more white housing for the shifters. But everything works as it should and I'm a happy cyclist.
BTW I usually use some silicone oil in the brake housing and shift cables before I slip the cables in the cable housing. However this time I greased the cables before slipping into the cable housing. Well see how that works. BTW, I was using blue marine grease I purchased at walmart but instead I've switched to white lithium grease now. Bitd I bought some at walmart but I had to go to a auto parts store to get some this time. Every shimano or campagnolo part; freewheel, bottom bracket, headset, etc always seem to use a white lithium or similar. It's more a peanut butter texture as opposed to the marine grease which is more jelly like texture. After having taken enough of them parts apart, It seems even if it's 20 years old, that the lithium type grease just flattens and allows your bearings to roll smoothly. So, that's why I've switched.
@markwesti I just like the cleaner look of the FD tab.

canklecat

Yep, I've tried both. I don't notice any difference. It may take years of use to notice any difference between light oil and grease on cables and housings.

The only time I've noticed problems was when I used Park CL-1 chain lube on old cables on my Univega. CL-1 changes with exposure to air. Within a couple of days it forms a tacky coating. This caused draggy feeling cables after a few weeks. When I disassembled the old cables/housings, they felt sticky. After that I just stuck with whatever grease was in the new cable housings, or applied some Phil's green goo along the length of separate cables for use with bulk housing rolls.

Presumably this characteristic clings better to chains in any weather -- I've noticed a dirty chain with CL-1 will feel noticeably smoother after a heavy rain ride, yet the chain is still lubricated. It's tenacious stuff. But it may also be why CL-1 usually ranks toward the bottom of the charts for low-friction lubes. I use it on my Univega hybrid for all season use and low maintenance. I may oil the chain once or twice a year now.

I'm about to switch from Phil's green goo to white lithium grease for hubs and bottom brackets, for the reason you described. Lithium still feels buttery smooth after decades on old bearings, as long as the bearings weren't infiltrated by water and debris. And I've never found hubs or bottom brackets ruined on old bikes. The seals always held up to normal use.

With fresh Phil's grease -- presumably just marine grease -- I can hear slight ticking of bearings. Phil's lacks the cohesion of lithium grease. Your description -- jelly -- is a good one. Phil's seems to be like jelly squeezed between fingers -- it separates and leaves a thin film but doesn't really cling. Lithium grease is more like butter, tenacious and clingy.

texaspandj

Dang it C-Cat EXACTLY. Man you said what I was trying to say. I need you to walk around with me for clarification. Like Key and Peele.

texaspandj

Some find these aesthetically challenged, but I think they're beautiful, genius, and funky...all good things.
Here's the aero bars that I removed from my '86 Classic. They are in better condition than the ones I now have with the predrilled holes. Only the original gripshifts required drilling three holes per shifter.
I know a lot of cyclist are turned off by aero bars and I get it.j But theses are the original and were used 2 years before most cyclist even knew what there were. They made funny (time trial) bikes obsolete. BTW, I wouldn't put these on a funny bike, I'd just ride the funny bike with bullhorns.
The idea wasn't to make you lower like a funny bike does but to bring your elbows closer and make you more aero like a down hill skier. Somewhere in triathlete magazine, I have the data where it list minutes saved using different aero products in a 40k time trial like; aero bars, disc wheels, etc. The cool thing is its all '80s relevant, which apparently is the decade I'm trapped in. Nothing wrong with '70s, '90s or any other decade. I just think the '80s is when the best cycling features originated, like FD tabs,under BB cable routing, aero forks, click shifting, aero brake hoods, disc wheels, did I mention aero bars?etc...
I'm not trying to convert anyone and as a 20 something when I first installed the aero bars it never felt wobbly or out of balance or anything negative, just instant joy. I mean no one else had them but me, how special can one man feel?
I've posted all this before I know. But a lot of advantages were discovered by triathletes using the aero position. But an easy way to think about it is to be on all fours (mimicking road bar time trial) and it gets uncomfortable pretty quick but do the same thing on your elbows (mimicking aero bars) and you can stay there longer. All in all, you have the same position as road bars with a couple extra positions.
There are 2 (imo) limitations to my aerobars. One, the drops are not wide enough. Two, the hoods are not comfortable for climbing so I have to climb in the drops when standing. Sidenote, Wolfgang Deitreich could climb standing while in the aero position
The thing is my fingers aren't overly long but I have wide palms (they're also hairy like markwesti's) so it's uncomfortable to stay in the drops for a long time.
Ok Irongents that's my reasoning for using the original, one piece, integrated, and still the best aerobars on all my Ironman. Not that any cared, also C-Cat could've said it better.

markwesti

texaspandj

Doubtful anyone here would be interested. And I have an extra set or two myself, so that leaves me out.
But in case someone takes you up on that. One thing should be noted, the closer you set the elbow rest to each other the more uh, uh, unsettling you may feel.

canklecat

I keep experimenting with the early style Scott aero bars texaspandj sent me a few months ago. I've tried 'em twice for a week or so on the '89 Ironman. And I was getting accustomed to them.

Then I'd take 'em off before a group ride. I know I give people the stink eye for using aero bars on the narrow MUP sidewalk -- blasting down the 5' wide path, weaving between other users, while in the aero bars, hands nowhere near the brakes -- or on group rides. So I don't even want 'em on my bike during group rides so nobody else gets nervous, thinking I'm gonna actually use the aero bars just because they're on the bike.

But now I'm thinking of dedicating a bike just for the aero bars and Strava PRs and KOM attempts. Those are solo rides so nobody needs to worry.

Now I gotta find space for one more bike.

fleslider 

Ohh shes a beauty. although its the one year IM I dont have.. I dont need another one..