For the love of English 3 speeds...
03-21-19, 12:07 PM
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The fixed cup is a LH thread. Adjustable cup RH. I don't usually remove the fixed cup. They are in there tight. No reason to unless it needs replacing. I just use a rag on a stick to clean it out. When I replace the spindle, I use grease to hold the bearings onto the spindle and thread it carefully through the fixed cup, hold it and screw in the already loaded adjustable cup with my other hand.
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03-21-19, 12:15 PM
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Last night I finally got back to the 1950 Superbe. I finished polishing the handlebars, brake levers, and SA shifter a few weeks ago. I washed the frame last night with Meguiar's car wash and wax, and it did reveal blemishes, scratches, and other damage to the near 70 year old paint. However, I like the patina and it did show off some of the richness left in the colour. No corrosion on the frame itself, however the fenders need some work due to surface rust. Is an evapo rust product the best idea here? I'd rather not damage the paint, and I am not sure how I would finish up. Perhaps a clear coat over the area once it is all cleaned up?
I packed fresh bearings in the headset cups with nice marine grease, and put it back together. Turns so smoothly now. Next thing is to source some brake parts and cables, service the AG, and put it back together. The Dynoluxe battery unit needs some TLC. I pulled late 1970s ever-ready (red coloured) batteries out of it. I'm sure you can imagine what they looked like, and the mess in the battery holder. There is some suspect wiring also - I may use some speaker wire to repair that, though I'll need some pointers. It is a lot of fun finally bringing the parts back together. I'll post photos toward the end of the project (my work space is crowded and makes taking photos difficult).
I packed fresh bearings in the headset cups with nice marine grease, and put it back together. Turns so smoothly now. Next thing is to source some brake parts and cables, service the AG, and put it back together. The Dynoluxe battery unit needs some TLC. I pulled late 1970s ever-ready (red coloured) batteries out of it. I'm sure you can imagine what they looked like, and the mess in the battery holder. There is some suspect wiring also - I may use some speaker wire to repair that, though I'll need some pointers. It is a lot of fun finally bringing the parts back together. I'll post photos toward the end of the project (my work space is crowded and makes taking photos difficult).
03-21-19, 03:33 PM
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1969 Sears Austrian hub. Have gone as far as I can without putting it in a vice and using the punch on it to open it up completely. So far everything looks good and clean. No reason for it to be jammed up. It’s oiled inside, bearings were adjusted well and looked clean.
03-21-19, 04:55 PM
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Looks heavy and bulky for a key fob, but I suppose you'll never loose them!
03-21-19, 05:06 PM
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ive seen videos where people clamp a shell into a vise and hammer/ punch it open. They used heavy rubber pads to grip it. Any other suggestions? I will be taking the plastic Oiler off just in case. Wish this hub was still built up in a wheel!
anybody stuffed an SA works inside one of these shells?
03-21-19, 05:12 PM
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HA! You haven’t met me yet then!
ive seen videos where people clamp a shell into a vise and hammer/ punch it open. They used heavy rubber pads to grip it. Any other suggestions? I will be taking the plastic Oiler off just in case. Wish this hub was still built up in a wheel!
anybody stuffed an SA works inside one of these shells?
New hubs that have not had the ball ring torqued by riding it don't need to be held in place I have found.
03-22-19, 07:39 AM
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I shot a video clip showing how I did it a few years back. I have done it since by modifying the procedure a bit. Putting two or more spokes on one side of the flange to resist rotation and resting the shell on a block of wood works a bit better than the way I did it in the video, but both methods work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBcp...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBcp...ature=youtu.be
03-22-19, 07:44 AM
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I'm wondering if it might be an Indian built Hercules....
I see no evidence of a 3 speed cable.
Is the kick stand British?
03-22-19, 07:57 AM
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I shot a video clip showing how I did it a few years back. I have done it since by modifying the procedure a bit. Putting two or more spokes on one side of the flange to resist rotation and resting the shell on a block of wood works a bit better than the way I did it in the video, but both methods work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBcp...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBcp...ature=youtu.be
03-22-19, 09:22 AM
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Those shallow mudguards are from the 1930s. From the catalogs, Herc mostly used the "HERCULES" or a simple spoke style chainring similar to the Raleigh, but this style does appear on the juvenile models, so it's not far fetched to assume it could have been also used on full sized roadsters at times. 3 speed hubs were an option back then. Also, back then, these roadsters either came with the enclosed chainguard or no chainguard, so this later addition helps point to a pre war date. I'm thinking this is a pre war Herc.
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03-22-19, 09:31 AM
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Yes, agreed 
It inspires me to get back to work on my `49 Clubman scorcher, but not until I've taken a couple of my other bikes out for a ride this weekend.
The DL1 will have to wait until the first pass with the street sweepers
- I don't want to risk starting rust on those steel fenders. But I've got a few bikes with aluminum fenders that are ready to roll.
Spring has officially Sprung here in Minnesota, and it's going to be a gorgeous weekend!
It inspires me to get back to work on my `49 Clubman scorcher, but not until I've taken a couple of my other bikes out for a ride this weekend.
The DL1 will have to wait until the first pass with the street sweepers
- I don't want to risk starting rust on those steel fenders. But I've got a few bikes with aluminum fenders that are ready to roll.
Spring has officially Sprung here in Minnesota, and it's going to be a gorgeous weekend!
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
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USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
03-22-19, 10:00 AM
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^^Yes! I've been riding my Superbe to work all week 
03-22-19, 10:53 AM
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Those shallow mudguards are from the 1930s. From the catalogs, Herc mostly used the "HERCULES" or a simple spoke style chainring similar to the Raleigh, but this style does appear on the juvenile models, so it's not far fetched to assume it could have been also used on full sized roadsters at times. 3 speed hubs were an option back then. Also, back then, these roadsters either came with the enclosed chainguard or no chainguard, so this later addition helps point to a pre war date. I'm thinking this is a pre war Herc.
Going to have a look tomorrow am
03-22-19, 11:54 AM
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03-22-19, 01:11 PM
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03-22-19, 01:38 PM
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Free up the gear hub! She's stuck in gear... 2? I think?
Then ride it!!
But of course there's a plan...
Swap out as much steel for aluminum and drop some weight!
Put on a Brooks B66, to put some weight back on!
So aluminum wheelset, seat post, bar stem, and maybe mustache bars.
I'd like to put on a cotterless crank, using a new axle but keeping the hub.
I need to source a rack ASAP.
I love the matched fenders and chain guard, so they are staying, despite the added poundage.
I want to put the fattest cream colored tires that I can fit.
Any input or critique is welcome!
Then ride it!!
But of course there's a plan...
Swap out as much steel for aluminum and drop some weight!
Put on a Brooks B66, to put some weight back on!
So aluminum wheelset, seat post, bar stem, and maybe mustache bars.
I'd like to put on a cotterless crank, using a new axle but keeping the hub.
I need to source a rack ASAP.
I love the matched fenders and chain guard, so they are staying, despite the added poundage.
I want to put the fattest cream colored tires that I can fit.
Any input or critique is welcome!
03-22-19, 03:00 PM
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Free up the gear hub! She's stuck in gear... 2? I think?
Then ride it!!
But of course there's a plan...
Swap out as much steel for aluminum and drop some weight!
Put on a Brooks B66, to put some weight back on!
So aluminum wheelset, seat post, bar stem, and maybe mustache bars.
I'd like to put on a cotterless crank, using a new axle but keeping the hub.
I need to source a rack ASAP.
I love the matched fenders and chain guard, so they are staying, despite the added poundage.
I want to put the fattest cream colored tires that I can fit.
Any input or critique is welcome!
Mine is Canadian of unknown year. Appears to be in great shape. Like you I will be going over it then riding it! The Twenty and the Schorcher should get me through the SOTS Challenges well.
mine from sellers pic
03-22-19, 03:23 PM
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All in, a good plan. A little further then I will be going but, I concur wholehearted with the rim change and saddle choice. I travel(ugh) 4 hrs round trip to get mine tomorrow! Can’t wait to see some more pics of the future changes for yours.
Mine is Canadian of unknown year. Appears to be in great shape. Like you I will be going over it then riding it! The Twenty and the Schorcher should get me through the SOTS Challenges well.
mine from sellers pic
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
03-22-19, 03:59 PM
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@browngw
im not sure of the tires but they are brand new and tubes. He had it recently done. I’ll have to report back on their make. One thing I did which impressed him was to make sure the front wheel was installed correctly. He checked, it was. He said it showed the bike is going to a good home.
Yes, coffee colour. My favorite!
im not sure of the tires but they are brand new and tubes. He had it recently done. I’ll have to report back on their make. One thing I did which impressed him was to make sure the front wheel was installed correctly. He checked, it was. He said it showed the bike is going to a good home.
Yes, coffee colour. My favorite!
03-22-19, 04:48 PM
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Turns out, mines Canadian too! lol, there's a Canadian shop sticker on the seat tube!
I checked my hub, it was made in June of 1980, so need than I had thought. I've oiled the hub, and the BB. I now have two speeds, and "neutral"! My tires look to be original, but I still aired them up to 50psi, and totted around my block a little. First ride!
Reactions:
1) New wheels, brake calipers, and headset will be essential to making this feel like a real bicycle.
2) The cranks are a tiny bit warped, not a ton, but it's there.
3) Sweet JEBUS is this thing heavy! Put it up on my shop table to lube it, and I think a popped a rib out of place! 😆
4) That frame is awesome. I think the diet will do wonders to wake up the ride.
5) The stock saddle needs to be buried where it can't harm anyone.
6) It's really fun, VERY different from any of my other bikes, I like it a lot already, and I'm excited to see what is possible with the frame!
03-22-19, 05:05 PM
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Man, besides pedals and those cool rubber covers on the clamp arms, ours could be twins.
i sure wish tomorrow was already in motion!
I see that Kalloy makes a good long seatpost, who are you going to use for the rims?
i sure wish tomorrow was already in motion!
I see that Kalloy makes a good long seatpost, who are you going to use for the rims?
03-22-19, 06:27 PM
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03-22-19, 07:13 PM
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Raleigh Royal Roadster
Needing a bit of help from the experts. I am going to be in contact with someone with a Raleigh Royal Roadster. I haven’t talked to him yet, but from the limited info I have it was purchased in Europe or England and is in “beautiful” shape.
My limited research would point me to the later version that I have seen pictured that was made in the late 70s. I couldn’t believe it would be a great survivor from the 50s. Is that late 70s version desirable? They look nice in picks with all the extras.
it has the rod brakes, enclosed chain, pump, basket, rack, new tires. What is a fair price for a nice one? $250-$300 maybe.
My limited research would point me to the later version that I have seen pictured that was made in the late 70s. I couldn’t believe it would be a great survivor from the 50s. Is that late 70s version desirable? They look nice in picks with all the extras.
it has the rod brakes, enclosed chain, pump, basket, rack, new tires. What is a fair price for a nice one? $250-$300 maybe.