Drop bar to straight bar questions
#26
Clark W. Griswold
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Currently on my Parts hybrid I am running Surly Moloko Bars with an XTR 9 speed trigger shifter (without a window) and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers with Ergon GC-1 BioKork grips. It is a 1x9 set up hence the single shifter.
I have a touring bike with Velo Orange Crazy Bars running 3(Deore)x9(XT) trigger shifters and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers with Ergon GC-1 BioKork grips. However this bike is way way way too small for me but I built it for someone else but in my rides on it to test it after building and get it back home from the shop I did like the bars.
On my new gravel bike my plan is to run Koga Denham bars with MicroShift 2X11MTN thumb shifters, hydraulic levers (or possibly might go mechanical and use Paul Cantilevers) and of course Ergon GC-1 BioKork grips and possibly either Lizard Skins bar tape at the ends or maybe ESI Silicon grips.
I like to have multiple hand positions so most flat bars are out but I really loved the idea of the Koga Denham bars after trying the two similar bars listed above and then I got a chance to try them briefly and was easily sold. Ergon makes the best grips so those are a no brainer on any non drop bar build. I do like both thumbies and trigger shifters but I do tend to have more trigger shifters in the parts bin.
I have a touring bike with Velo Orange Crazy Bars running 3(Deore)x9(XT) trigger shifters and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers with Ergon GC-1 BioKork grips. However this bike is way way way too small for me but I built it for someone else but in my rides on it to test it after building and get it back home from the shop I did like the bars.
On my new gravel bike my plan is to run Koga Denham bars with MicroShift 2X11MTN thumb shifters, hydraulic levers (or possibly might go mechanical and use Paul Cantilevers) and of course Ergon GC-1 BioKork grips and possibly either Lizard Skins bar tape at the ends or maybe ESI Silicon grips.
I like to have multiple hand positions so most flat bars are out but I really loved the idea of the Koga Denham bars after trying the two similar bars listed above and then I got a chance to try them briefly and was easily sold. Ergon makes the best grips so those are a no brainer on any non drop bar build. I do like both thumbies and trigger shifters but I do tend to have more trigger shifters in the parts bin.
#27
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Bikes: Surly Disk Trucker, 2014 w/Brooks Flyer Special saddle, Tubus racks - Duo front/Logo Evo rear, 2019 Dahon Mariner D8, Both bikes share Ortlieb Packer Plus series panniers, Garmin Edge 1000
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There are generally spacers on steerer tubes to set the initial bar height. There is a part you can get that goes in place of some of the spacers that adds more height to the steerer tube. I do not recall what it is, where you get it, or who makes it. I might have come across it on a site like Harris Cyclery.
In any event, raising the bars is possible.
When I was looking at bikes one of my riding buddies had a LHT the same size as what I got and he had been touring with it for a couple years. One of the things he mentioned when I was studying his bike and gear was that he wished he had more steerer tube for the bar adjustments. Not only that - but with enough space you can put a 2nd stem underneath the bar with a dummy bar to mount accessories to keep your main bar clear.
I studied several bikes and still ended up with a Trucker, the Disk model, 56cm and 700c wheels. When I sized it up at the shop I bought it from I told them to leave the steerer tube ridiculously long (to them - they tried to talk me out of it). We just stacked spacers up to make up the extra length. That has since been one of the best things I've had on the bike. Early on I did end up raising the bars and later on I put a 2nd stem on and dummy bar like my riding partner has set up.
Another thought - if there isn't much of the steerer tube left to do much, or you can't find an adapter - find someone locally that can TIG weld. You can get a chromoly tube the size of what the steerer tube is and weld it on to lengthen it. It would definitely not be a beginner welding job, but it most certainly can be done. Jigging the fork with a couple V blocks to hold the parts in alignment for tacking would be critical. Oxy/acetylene could also be used to weld chromoly tube. In either case, just make sure you match the filler rod to the chromoly. As far as structural integrity - the bike frame already has a bunch of welded joints so not much to worry about.
Ironically, the chromoly frame set was one of the reasons I went with the Trucker also - it is easily field repairable with various welding processes if I got in a jam and had to get things fixed in some podunk town on a trip.
Best of luck and happy riding. Nothing beats a comfortable bike that's ergonomic for the rider
#28
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I’m keeping the drop bars. I just built a Trucker for a buddy with an upright position and don’t care for it.
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#29
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Out of curiosity - when you say you built a trucker with an "upright position" - what type of bars went on the bike?
I would consider the bar position my Trucker "high" - so it is more upright than what would probably be considered normal. However, that works for me and the reason I like the drops so well is I have multiple hand positions as well as posture. When I drop down to the drops I have a lower position. Though, the multiple hand positions is the real benefit for me as I change up where my hands are constantly - more so as the miles wear on.
An inch or two added height can make a big difference, just with the drops. You don't necessarily need new bars if you don't want them.
I would consider the bar position my Trucker "high" - so it is more upright than what would probably be considered normal. However, that works for me and the reason I like the drops so well is I have multiple hand positions as well as posture. When I drop down to the drops I have a lower position. Though, the multiple hand positions is the real benefit for me as I change up where my hands are constantly - more so as the miles wear on.
An inch or two added height can make a big difference, just with the drops. You don't necessarily need new bars if you don't want them.
#30
Banned
I have adopted Trekking/Butterfly bars rather than straight MTB/Hybrid Bars, like these : ITM - Koga ..
brake levers the last thing on..
brake levers the last thing on..
#31
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#32
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That looks pretty cool actually. There is definitely some height with all the spacers there. Its all in how you want the bike to fit and feel. If it were me I'd definitely have bars with more hand positions.
My folding bike still has the OEM straight bar. I've had a lot of suggestions for the butterfly style bars. I am not totally sold on them, but I admit - I have never tried them so I don't have much of a box to stand on. Though, I do like my drops on the Trucker. Maybe the loops being spread apart on the butterflies would give me the posture changes I need, not sure.
The fenders, saddle, and bar grips really set that bike off. Great work with it!
My folding bike still has the OEM straight bar. I've had a lot of suggestions for the butterfly style bars. I am not totally sold on them, but I admit - I have never tried them so I don't have much of a box to stand on. Though, I do like my drops on the Trucker. Maybe the loops being spread apart on the butterflies would give me the posture changes I need, not sure.
The fenders, saddle, and bar grips really set that bike off. Great work with it!
#33
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You know, a good randonnee bar might be a better solution. The high and wide flanged drops are much more useful to those of us that don't use them very often. For me they are a good place for my barend shifters. Other than a strong headwind I've never spent much time in the last several decades in the drops. Some folks love the trekking bars but I'm no fan. The close part was too close and the far bar too far. To get it right you had to grab the sides and that's tireing over time. You can shorten or lengthen the stem to put whichever bar you like best at the right spot for relaxing or palming but, that wastes the other bar. It's a dandy spot for a phone, cup holder or whatever though. For myself, I'd rather have a flat or riser bar with some barends. I prefer them on the ends and molded rather than closer in. Climbing out of the saddle from the barends feels comfortable and controlled to me. The angled tube type of barends do offer a spot for a third eye mirror though. The various angled type of bars have a following but for variety they usually lack enough comfortable places to "hang out". Of course, keep in mind that my body and mind have adjusted to a certain familiar position and are unlikely to change now.🍑
#34
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Get good shifters. I like trigger shifters but thumbies are probably more dependable. As for brake levers, I personally would like some old school levers. They're usually sturdy and uncomplicated. If you have discs, this may not be an option. Anyway, have fun building your perfect bike.☺️
#35
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I’ve settled on flared drop bars, I just feel more comfortable with them.
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