modernizing late 80s bianchi axis
#1
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modernizing late 80s bianchi axis
hi all, I have an 89 bianchi axis that I absolutely love. It's my commuter/get around bike. Steel frame with a triple chain ring, 7 speeds in back.
The bike has bar end (friction) shifters. The left shifter is unable to jump down to my smallest chain ring - the smallest ring is effectively unusable. The bike rides and handles really nicely, but I'd love to modernize it with indexed shifters/gears (possibly move up to brifters, not yet decided). I want to upgrade the drivetrain/shifters to something newer and more efficient. The bike is great but is a total drag to ride after riding my road bike.
I think I want a 2x drivetrain since I'm not using my smallest ring anyway. I was thinking it would be cool to upgrade to a 9 or 10 speed maybe. I come to this forum asking for suggestions, tips, expected headaches, etc. Anything I should know about this sort of upgrade when it comes to this specific bike?
thanks much
The bike has bar end (friction) shifters. The left shifter is unable to jump down to my smallest chain ring - the smallest ring is effectively unusable. The bike rides and handles really nicely, but I'd love to modernize it with indexed shifters/gears (possibly move up to brifters, not yet decided). I want to upgrade the drivetrain/shifters to something newer and more efficient. The bike is great but is a total drag to ride after riding my road bike.
I think I want a 2x drivetrain since I'm not using my smallest ring anyway. I was thinking it would be cool to upgrade to a 9 or 10 speed maybe. I come to this forum asking for suggestions, tips, expected headaches, etc. Anything I should know about this sort of upgrade when it comes to this specific bike?
thanks much
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Moving to brifters would be fairly expensive, requiring pretty much a whole new drivetrain. I suspect the cost, unless you do all the labor yourself, would approach that of a new bike.
You say the left bar-end shifter no longer goes to the small ring? It's likely that this would be fairly trivial to fix, perhaps as simple as a new cable and housing. Have you looking into just fixing what you have?
You say the left bar-end shifter no longer goes to the small ring? It's likely that this would be fairly trivial to fix, perhaps as simple as a new cable and housing. Have you looking into just fixing what you have?
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Moving to brifters would be fairly expensive, requiring pretty much a whole new drivetrain. I suspect the cost, unless you do all the labor yourself, would approach that of a new bike.
You say the left bar-end shifter no longer goes to the small ring? It's likely that this would be fairly trivial to fix, perhaps as simple as a new cable and housing. Have you looking into just fixing what you have?
You say the left bar-end shifter no longer goes to the small ring? It's likely that this would be fairly trivial to fix, perhaps as simple as a new cable and housing. Have you looking into just fixing what you have?
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I second JohnDThompson on fixing what you've got first; 3X7 works on my bikes. But you might look into Gevenalle shifters vs brifters for their simplicity and ruggedness. https://www.gevenalle.com/shifters/
#5
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If your Bianchi is a seven-speed, then the overlock dimension is probably 126 mm and to go to a 10 or 11 speed drivetrain you would need 130 mm spacing. If your frame is steel that would be do-able, but a no go if aluminum or carbon.
The cheapest way to get to a 10/11 speed drivetrain would be to buy an entire group set from one of the online UK dealers, along with a new 10-speed rear wheel. I did the same thing you are contemplating to my 1989 Trek 400. It was about $375 for a Tiara 4700 group set and a Shimano RS-10 rear wheel. The new gearing is a 50/34 front and 11-34 rear cogs. The group set included the Brifters, brakes, cassette, chain, crank, BB and front and rear ders.
A new front der and shifters would be the cheaper solution. I was unclear if you were friction shifting the rear by choice or by necessity.
The cheapest way to get to a 10/11 speed drivetrain would be to buy an entire group set from one of the online UK dealers, along with a new 10-speed rear wheel. I did the same thing you are contemplating to my 1989 Trek 400. It was about $375 for a Tiara 4700 group set and a Shimano RS-10 rear wheel. The new gearing is a 50/34 front and 11-34 rear cogs. The group set included the Brifters, brakes, cassette, chain, crank, BB and front and rear ders.
A new front der and shifters would be the cheaper solution. I was unclear if you were friction shifting the rear by choice or by necessity.
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I was able to do something similar for negligible cost using salvaged parts and my own labor. I found a set of brifters that needed work and derailleurs in the bins at the co-op, bought a set of nice wheels on Craigslist for basically the cost of the tires, and re-sized the frame with tools at the co-op. It took a year or so of scrounging around for the parts. The only new stuff I got was handlebar tape, cables and housing, and chain.
If there's a co-op in your area, start there.
If there's a co-op in your area, start there.
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If your Bianchi is a seven-speed, then the overlock dimension is probably 126 mm and to go to a 10 or 11 speed drivetrain you would need 130 mm spacing. If your frame is steel that would be do-able, but a no go if aluminum or carbon.
The cheapest way to get to a 10/11 speed drivetrain would be to buy an entire group set from one of the online UK dealers, along with a new 10-speed rear wheel. I did the same thing you are contemplating to my 1989 Trek 400. It was about $375 for a Tiara 4700 group set and a Shimano RS-10 rear wheel. The new gearing is a 50/34 front and 11-34 rear cogs. The group set included the Brifters, brakes, cassette, chain, crank, BB and front and rear ders.
A new front der and shifters would be the cheaper solution. I was unclear if you were friction shifting the rear by choice or by necessity.
The cheapest way to get to a 10/11 speed drivetrain would be to buy an entire group set from one of the online UK dealers, along with a new 10-speed rear wheel. I did the same thing you are contemplating to my 1989 Trek 400. It was about $375 for a Tiara 4700 group set and a Shimano RS-10 rear wheel. The new gearing is a 50/34 front and 11-34 rear cogs. The group set included the Brifters, brakes, cassette, chain, crank, BB and front and rear ders.
A new front der and shifters would be the cheaper solution. I was unclear if you were friction shifting the rear by choice or by necessity.
Easiest way to check is to have a shop drop in a 10/11 speed wheel and a short length of chain to check the clearance.
=8-|
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#8
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What may prove to be one of the greatest expense is the rear wheel. You will need to upgrade to a cassette compatible hub (8/9/10 spd or 11 spd depending on what you decide). Wheels can get very expensive pretty quickly if you want light and strong and it's one of the riskiest 2nd hand purchases unless you know what to look for. My local (new york) craiglist is full of crap old wheels being sold for ridiculous prices, presumably because so many people have one of their wheels stolen (and which then probably end up on CL 6 months later...).