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Old 09-27-17, 07:17 AM
  #4426  
Godsight
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Actually DT swiss revamped their aftermarket track wheel lineup but that was announced at Eurobike 3 weeks ago.DT swiss 2018 track wheel lineup

There is still that rumor that Cervelo might offer a public version of the T5 but I saw no confirmation of this.

Lazer new Time trial helmet that was shown in prototype form last year as the Track Air is now a official helmet that should be shipping to dealers by october 1st (in north america) and is now named the Victor. It is a shorter version of the Wasp air with a higher coverage visor.Lazer renames Track Air helmet to Victor

That's all that I can remember for this year Eurobike-Interbike
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Old 09-27-17, 08:47 AM
  #4427  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk




you know how it is
I almost drowned snorting coffee when I saw that, hahahaha!

Originally Posted by Godsight
Actually DT swiss revamped their aftermarket track wheel lineup but that was announced at Eurobike 3 weeks ago.DT swiss 2018 track wheel lineup

There is still that rumor that Cervelo might offer a public version of the T5 but I saw no confirmation of this.

Lazer new Time trial helmet that was shown in prototype form last year as the Track Air is now a official helmet that should be shipping to dealers by october 1st (in north america) and is now named the Victor. It is a shorter version of the Wasp air with a higher coverage visor.Lazer renames Track Air helmet to Victor

That's all that I can remember for this year Eurobike-Interbike

Thanks!

These don't look half bad:





They are considered "Track fixed gear crit" wheels. Not sure what that means. There's like 1 race that's a fixed gear crit...and it's a hot mess (imho).
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Old 09-27-17, 08:58 AM
  #4428  
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Fixed gear crit racing is actually becoming popular at the grass roots level as well. There are weekly series in some cities.
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Old 09-27-17, 08:59 AM
  #4429  
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And are getting pretty dang popular in europe.
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Old 09-27-17, 09:51 AM
  #4430  
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Why is this taking off over a single speed category...with brakes?
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Old 09-27-17, 11:29 AM
  #4431  
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Because that's not cool?

Red Hook Crit started as a combination of the usual crit format with fixed gear bikes because fixed gears were the zeitgeist in 2008. Some people that rode fixed wanted to compete against each other in a way that was more straightforward than an alleycat and didn't require showing up to a velodrome or getting on a bike with gears/brakes.

Turns out the format makes for a fast, exciting and spectator friendly event. Since it started as an underground/unsanctioned thing it has a certain cool factor.
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Old 09-27-17, 02:13 PM
  #4432  
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Originally Posted by rustymongrel
Because that's not cool?

Red Hook Crit started as a combination of the usual crit format with fixed gear bikes because fixed gears were the zeitgeist in 2008. Some people that rode fixed wanted to compete against each other in a way that was more straightforward than an alleycat and didn't require showing up to a velodrome or getting on a bike with gears/brakes.

Turns out the format makes for a fast, exciting and spectator friendly event. Since it started as an underground/unsanctioned thing it has a certain cool factor.
Yeah, I was around when all of that started. I was actually on the alleycat scene in Baltimore and DC in the mid 2000s

My whip from back in those days in Baltimore:



Pista Concept
Mavic Ellipse
Arione Saddle
Sugino 75s with a Zen chainring (1st on the scene with that)
Time ATAC pedals
All brakeless all the time

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Old 09-27-17, 02:45 PM
  #4433  
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In 2008 had a left hand drive conversion rattlecanned black with untaped B123s... wish I could find a picture of it
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Old 09-28-17, 02:52 PM
  #4434  
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I've noticed a lot of people selling wheelsets with a cog and lockring included. Tubular tires, I get - it's a PIA to pull them off, and if you're not going to stick with tubulars, there's no point in keeping the tires. But why not keep the cog and lock ring? Do these people just not own a lockring tool and/or chainwhip?
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Old 09-28-17, 03:17 PM
  #4435  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
I've noticed a lot of people selling wheelsets with a cog and lockring included. Tubular tires, I get - it's a PIA to pull them off, and if you're not going to stick with tubulars, there's no point in keeping the tires. But why not keep the cog and lock ring? Do these people just not own a lockring tool and/or chainwhip?
That's interesting. Where are you seeing this?

The only reason I can imagine is if the person is getting out of the game.
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Old 09-29-17, 06:22 AM
  #4436  
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Facebook groups mostly.

The most recent example was a set of FFWD 90mm deep track wheels with a 16t cog and lockring. That's a pretty nice set of wheels.
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Old 09-29-17, 06:59 AM
  #4437  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Yeah, I was around when all of that started. I was actually on the alleycat scene in Baltimore and DC in the mid 2000s

My whip from back in those days in Baltimore:



Pista Concept
Mavic Ellipse
Arione Saddle
Sugino 75s with a Zen chainring (1st on the scene with that)
Time ATAC pedals
All brakeless all the time

heh.
i got my start in the alleycat scene, too.

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Old 09-29-17, 08:02 AM
  #4438  
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I had a couple of the young women I know at Hellyer try to talk me into "trying" the Mission Crit this year. Oh, come now. I don't have nearly enough tattoos for that. It did look fun, though, in a nutty, insane kind of way.
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Old 09-29-17, 08:23 AM
  #4439  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
Facebook groups mostly.

The most recent example was a set of FFWD 90mm deep track wheels with a 16t cog and lockring. That's a pretty nice set of wheels.
There are always lots of people that join the sport, go all-in and buy lots of nice gear, then hop out pretty quickly.

If you have cash ready and the patience to be in FB a lot, you can score some nice stuff. I have neither

Originally Posted by queerpunk
heh.
i got my start in the alleycat scene, too.

Velospace...nice! I had one of the 1st generation accounts there then their database got corrupted or something and it disappeared. I can't find it anymore.

Want to go deep? How about this. Remember Bike Snob NYC?:

https://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/200...og-titans.html

This bike was also mine (from the link above):


Mavice Ellipse
Nitto stem and B123 (?) bars
Awesome vintage saddle. Can't recall the make/model
Gold KMC chain
Omnium cranks
MKS pedals with Toshi straps


I bought the frame from Prolly


...let me see if I can find a pic of my matte black Pista Concept...

Originally Posted by sarals
I had a couple of the young women I know at Hellyer try to talk me into "trying" the Mission Crit this year. Oh, come now. I don't have nearly enough tattoos for that. It did look fun, though, in a nutty, insane kind of way.
!!! You probably have too much sense for that

Last edited by carleton; 09-29-17 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 09-29-17, 08:48 PM
  #4440  
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That gold cockpit rules.
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Old 10-04-17, 02:48 PM
  #4441  
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Is there a good guide on how to remove clear coat and decals then reapply clear coat to carbon bars?

I've seen it done a few times and I like the look.
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Old 10-05-17, 12:04 PM
  #4442  
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I haven't done bars but I've done carbon cranks, a seatpost and bottle cages before.

I used wet sandpaper from the automotive section of a hardware store. Started with 400 until the logos were gone (can take a while) then used 600, 800 and 1500 to even even things out. Then I wiped them down and cleaned with some solvent before spraying some automotive clearcoat from a can. I sprayed it on thin and did a couple coats. Once you've done that you can use the 1500 grit to wet sand the clearcoat for a matte look.
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Old 10-05-17, 12:43 PM
  #4443  
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Originally Posted by rustymongrel
I haven't done bars but I've done carbon cranks, a seatpost and bottle cages before.

I used wet sandpaper from the automotive section of a hardware store. Started with 400 until the logos were gone (can take a while) then used 600, 800 and 1500 to even even things out. Then I wiped them down and cleaned with some solvent before spraying some automotive clearcoat from a can. I sprayed it on thin and did a couple coats. Once you've done that you can use the 1500 grit to wet sand the clearcoat for a matte look.
Thanks!

How much time should I set aside? 2 hrs, 1/2 day, all weekend? Did you use a tool or just your hands?
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Old 10-05-17, 12:51 PM
  #4444  
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I think It really depends on how thick the clear coat is. I just used my hands and the seatpost and cages I did took maybe 20-30min each while the fulcrum cranks took me a couple hours. I used masking tape to mask off anything I planned to keep or was dimensionally critical
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Old 10-05-17, 01:41 PM
  #4445  
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I did that on a seatpost once.

Took about 10 min. with 800 grit wet sandpaper to reach the point that the logos were gone.

At that point, I just sprayed it with some semi-gloss clearcoat out of a basic rattle can. It ended up being too many layers though, as it would no longer fit in the frame, so I had to sand it down some.
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Old 10-05-17, 01:48 PM
  #4446  
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Originally Posted by rustymongrel
I think It really depends on how thick the clear coat is. I just used my hands and the seatpost and cages I did took maybe 20-30min each while the fulcrum cranks took me a couple hours. I used masking tape to mask off anything I planned to keep or was dimensionally critical
Wondering if I should buy a small sander or not. Hmmm....
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Old 10-05-17, 04:27 PM
  #4447  
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Do it by hand only. Even small Sanders can remove too much material in an instant if inattention. You can use a dremel with a buffing wheel and fine compound to get the final layer before solvent and clear coat. That's now I would do it.
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Old 10-05-17, 09:48 PM
  #4448  
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Originally Posted by taras0000
Do it by hand only. Even small Sanders can remove too much material in an instant if inattention. You can use a dremel with a buffing wheel and fine compound to get the final layer before solvent and clear coat. That's now I would do it.
Roger that.

I have some used bars coming and if they show up by this weekend, I'll give it a try.

Any tips on painting? Since it's carbon, then I'm only limited to wet paint, no sense in trying to powdercoat, right?

I think painting the curved bars might be over my head. Black with clearcoat is probably idiot-proof
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Old 10-07-17, 04:00 AM
  #4449  
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Yoshida Champ grips: how do you get these things on? For years I used Soyo and Strong-V grips, just tried these Champ grips for the first time. With Soyos and Strong-V, I've always just used water and dishwashing soap to put them on. I tried that with these, and even 24 hours later they were totally loose- the rubber is either too soft or they are too loose on the bar. Lacking anything else, I put these on with tubie cement and it was a f@cking nightmare as well as a huge mess. Does hairspray work? What's your method? These things seem to be taking over as I'm unable to find Strong-V's in Japan, maybe out of business, so I need to get used to them.
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Old 10-07-17, 07:23 AM
  #4450  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
Yoshida Champ grips: how do you get these things on? For years I used Soyo and Strong-V grips, just tried these Champ grips for the first time. With Soyos and Strong-V, I've always just used water and dishwashing soap to put them on. I tried that with these, and even 24 hours later they were totally loose- the rubber is either too soft or they are too loose on the bar. Lacking anything else, I put these on with tubie cement and it was a f@cking nightmare as well as a huge mess. Does hairspray work? What's your method? These things seem to be taking over as I'm unable to find Strong-V's in Japan, maybe out of business, so I need to get used to them.
Maybe have a shop with an air compressor do it for you?


When I worked in shops we called this method "farting the grips on"...because...you know...the fart sound when you do it
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