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Road salt: how big a threat?

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Road salt: how big a threat?

Old 12-02-18, 02:19 PM
  #26  
Chombi1 
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
In my salt winters with no car, I rode steel frames (not that there were options then). I stripped and brush painted the frame with 2-part epoxy (and got results that were surprisingly good because epoxy paint changes viscosity as it sets up and flows wonderfully, hiding all kinds of brush strokes, etc. Just don't touch it at this stage!)

Epoxy forms a really good barrier. It you have epoxy paint, good frame save inside the tubes and grease all the threads with marine boat trailer hub grease, the steel will never see the salt. The aluminum is a different story. Electrolysis with the aluminum parts and other dissimilar metals is a different story. Every winter my spoke nipples used to seize up solid and I would cut the rims off with wire-cutters. (They were sewup rims and quite square from all the bottomless potholes so no real loss. Now I would use the same marine grease when I built the wheels.)

I am a huge fan of: well used steel frames that I have zero attachment to, fix gears and Mafac brakes because they work on salt roads (and the ice, snow and wet that come with them) really well. Keeping chains lubed and working well with derailleurs is quite possible, but unless you want to be wedded to bike maintenance, a real hassle. With a fix gear, one or two frozen links is not a big deal. You just slide the wheel forward to get some slack back. And with good bikes, when you are bored, you can count up the dollars worth of wear and tear and loss from the coming 3 months or you can park it and do less damage to the $400 beater.

And another trick - if you have to bring your wet, salty and filthy bike inside, park it leaning against a wall on a 6' plastic carpet runner. (Like the clear plastic carpet guard you put your office chair on.) They do a really good job of keeping the mess contained and you don't have to wash your bike after riding, (That salt you wash off doesn't do your living quarters any good either.) In the morning, you just pick up your now dried mess, carry it outside, jump on it and ride.

This comes from three winters in Boston and three in Ann Arbor. (I had a car two of those winters but commuted to campus where I could not park.) A lot of salt was used in Boston. In Ann Arbor. the policy was to match each snowflake with a salt crystal. Snow and ice didn't have a chance.

Ben
Epoxy paint is better than regular paint, as it is also used in most wet and corrosive areas in building interiors like washdown rooms with a lot of detergent use and water spray that could be also in the form of steam, so you will need a strong barrier against the moisture from damaging absortive materials your room walls are built with. But epoxy paint is not perfect and some conditions seem to lead to accelerated corrosion. We noticed that at a place I worked at when I was in college when my boss decided to pinch the pennies and go for a mild steel enclosure on fixtures/equipment we were building for a water park to be installed in wet areas next to swimming pools. What we noticed was, the moment a breach develops on the epoxy paint surface (like a simple small scratch), the corrosive chlorine laced moisture from the pool environment gets under the paint at that breach, the rust develops under the paint between the steel and the paint and spreads like wildfire under the paint as the otherwise tough paint membrane tended to retain the corrosive moisture right against the steel. After just six months, the fixtures were all very corroded under the paint with the epoxy paint bubbling and flaking off in large areass. And this was really high quality epoxy paint that the firm uses on their industrial and construction rolling rigs.
Saying all this, I think the best bike to use on salty winter roads word be a stainless steel framed bike like a Kabuki Submariner or one of those stailess steel folders that manufacturers like Dahon made that were geared toward boat owners who want to take bikes along on their boat trips. But I notice even those are not perfect as not everything on those bikes are stainless steel. So you will still have to take care of a bunch of corrosion vulnerable components on those bikes to keep them running and looking good. But at least, you won't have to worry about the frame too much.

Last edited by Chombi1; 12-02-18 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 12-02-18, 03:25 PM
  #27  
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No threat at all in Detroit where we use a LOT of salt. Wipe down and rinse after riding in a heavy salt area has kept my bikes in near mint shape . Good waxing before winter sets in helps .
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Old 12-02-18, 05:26 PM
  #28  
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The (toxic) undercoating on old English roadsters is bombproof. This Hercules has had 23 years of service with only one tremclad topcoat refresh, using the same studded front tire, seen here in '96.
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Old 12-02-18, 08:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
In my salt winters with no car, I rode steel frames (not that there were options then). I stripped and brush painted the frame with 2-part epoxy (and got results that were surprisingly good because epoxy paint changes viscosity as it sets up and flows wonderfully, hiding all kinds of brush strokes, etc. Just don't touch it at this stage!)

Epoxy forms a really good barrier. It you have epoxy paint, good frame save inside the tubes and grease all the threads with marine boat trailer hub grease, the steel will never see the salt. The aluminum is a different story. Electrolysis with the aluminum parts and other dissimilar metals is a different story. Every winter my spoke nipples used to seize up solid and I would cut the rims off with wire-cutters. (They were sewup rims and quite square from all the bottomless potholes so no real loss. Now I would use the same marine grease when I built the wheels.)

I am a huge fan of: well used steel frames that I have zero attachment to, fix gears and Mafac brakes because they work on salt roads (and the ice, snow and wet that come with them) really well. Keeping chains lubed and working well with derailleurs is quite possible, but unless you want to be wedded to bike maintenance, a real hassle. With a fix gear, one or two frozen links is not a big deal. You just slide the wheel forward to get some slack back. And with good bikes, when you are bored, you can count up the dollars worth of wear and tear and loss from the coming 3 months or you can park it and do less damage to the $400 beater.

And another trick - if you have to bring your wet, salty and filthy bike inside, park it leaning against a wall on a 6' plastic carpet runner. (Like the clear plastic carpet guard you put your office chair on.) They do a really good job of keeping the mess contained and you don't have to wash your bike after riding, (That salt you wash off doesn't do your living quarters any good either.) In the morning, you just pick up your now dried mess, carry it outside, jump on it and ride.

This comes from three winters in Boston and three in Ann Arbor. (I had a car two of those winters but commuted to campus where I could not park.) A lot of salt was used in Boston. In Ann Arbor. the policy was to match each snowflake with a salt crystal. Snow and ice didn't have a chance.

Ben
"Epoxy paint"? I've seen cheap spray can paint called epoxy paint but never a quality two part paint. Quality two part paints are always some type of catalyzed automotive enamel or urethane paint. I know because I use this stuff in my job painting cars. I do use Epoxy PRIMER which is a corrosion resistant PRIMER that can go directly over basted or sanded metal and then be topcoated. Some old time hotrodders would go for the suede look by spraying epoxy primer on their hot rods and not topcoating it, but that's a bad idea as epoxy primer doesn't have any UV resistance and will fade eventually if the car sites out in the sun consistently. I've painted sandbasted chassis with epoxy and left that as the final coat since they aren't exposed to the sun but that's about the only time I'd not topcoat an epoxy primer. Of course these type of professional automotive refinishing products should be applied with the proper spray equipment by someone who knows what they are doing and has the proper breathing protection, etc. as they are very nasty and can cause serious health problems.

When I paint bike frames I've been using epoxy primer, too, but I ALWAYS topcoat it with urethane paint, which always includes several layers of clear for the final coat. In my opinion your best defense against frame rust is to make sure the surface stays sealed up and moisture doesn't have a chance to get inside the tubes. An internal frame coating probably would hurt either.
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Old 12-02-18, 08:50 PM
  #30  
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I meant to say an internal frame coating probably wouldn't hurt either, not would hurt either.
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Old 12-03-18, 05:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Vonruden
Once the road salt comes out, my good Steel goes into hibernation. Winter beaters come out.


+This. Same at my house. After all, is not THAT why Sears created the FreeSpirit to begin with?

And this is one of those spots where the hydrants and hoses freeze so washing is rare. And if I do wash "Babe, the blue oxen" it would freeze to dysfunction before it dried. That's life.
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Old 12-03-18, 10:46 AM
  #32  
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Salt, be it road salt, or salt carried in the air, off of the sea, does nothing to benefit a vintage road bike! I never ride my good bikes in the presence of salt. But my Bianchi, which I keep and ride in Jamaica - well that is a different story...
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