New Fizik bar tape on vintage SR bars
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New Fizik bar tape on vintage SR bars
I wrapped some vintage Cannondale handlebars (I believe made by SR) with Fizik bar tape (it's supposed to be the "thin" stuff) and I can't for the life of me get the supplied bar end plugs in after I stuffed the overhanging tape in the bars. because they are almost the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the bars. I only have about a third wrap of tape stuffed in the bars so this is frustrating. have some old Velox plugs that I managed to get in but they don't look right because the exposed parts are so much smaller than the outside of the tape on the bars (and they are black instead of white like the tape which makes that look worse). What I need (besides thinner bar tape) is some plugs that have a smaller section that goes into the bars, but everything seems to be geared toward modern handlebars that apparently are a bit larger in inside diameter. I've thought about cutting slits or little wedges in the overhanging tape to see if that would help to reduce the bulk to stuff in the bars but thought I'd check here to see if anyone has a better solution.
Any other ideas? This is one of the reasons why I hate modern padded tape, which is about all that's available besides cloth (which I don't think looks good with brake cables that are run under the bar tape).
Any other ideas? This is one of the reasons why I hate modern padded tape, which is about all that's available besides cloth (which I don't think looks good with brake cables that are run under the bar tape).
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Trim the part of the plug that inserts into the bar end, maybe.
You wrapped top-down?
You wrapped top-down?
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Try a skiving tool, usually sold for leather crafts. If you prefer padded bar tape you'll get enough use to justify the price -- around $10 or less. It peels thin layers off to thin the remaining strips.
Or if you have a really sharp potato/vegetable peeler, or a craft knife or razor and a steady hand, you can try that. But a skiver will do a neater job.
Or if you have a really sharp potato/vegetable peeler, or a craft knife or razor and a steady hand, you can try that. But a skiver will do a neater job.
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I almost always file those down with my beefy iron file. And I almost always file a finger in the process.
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Thanks for the replies. I'm just going to get some thinner tape; I measured this and compared it to the Fizik Superlight tape on my other bike and determined that this isn't the Superlight tape I was led to believe I ordered. I was misled by the eBay seller I got it from. I get so sick and tired of these shysters trying to pass stuff off for what it isn't on eBay. eBay is getting to be such a lousy place to buy and sell things these days.
Is Fizik Superlight tape the only thin (2mm or less thick) tape available these days besides cloth? I just hate how this ugly padded foam tape looks on vintage bikes, and it's nearly impossible to get it to look good on the ends. In my opinion it's better suited to modern style bikes that are already unsightly with their severely oversized and distorted tubing, and blacked out finishes and components.
Is Fizik Superlight tape the only thin (2mm or less thick) tape available these days besides cloth? I just hate how this ugly padded foam tape looks on vintage bikes, and it's nearly impossible to get it to look good on the ends. In my opinion it's better suited to modern style bikes that are already unsightly with their severely oversized and distorted tubing, and blacked out finishes and components.
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I wrapped some vintage Cannondale handlebars (I believe made by SR) with Fizik bar tape (it's supposed to be the "thin" stuff) and I can't for the life of me get the supplied bar end plugs in after I stuffed the overhanging tape in the bars. because they are almost the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the bars. I only have about a third wrap of tape stuffed in the bars so this is frustrating. have some old Velox plugs that I managed to get in but they don't look right because the exposed parts are so much smaller than the outside of the tape on the bars (and they are black instead of white like the tape which makes that look worse). What I need (besides thinner bar tape) is some plugs that have a smaller section that goes into the bars, but everything seems to be geared toward modern handlebars that apparently are a bit larger in inside diameter. I've thought about cutting slits or little wedges in the overhanging tape to see if that would help to reduce the bulk to stuff in the bars but thought I'd check here to see if anyone has a better solution.
Any other ideas? This is one of the reasons why I hate modern padded tape, which is about all that's available besides cloth (which I don't think looks good with brake cables that are run under the bar tape).
Any other ideas? This is one of the reasons why I hate modern padded tape, which is about all that's available besides cloth (which I don't think looks good with brake cables that are run under the bar tape).
Last edited by Chombi1; 01-28-19 at 08:51 AM.
#7
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If you are wrapping from the bottom up, you can just begin the wrap flush with the bar end rather than tuck it in. That’s what I have done using Fizik with barend shifters and it works fine.
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What about cutting the end of the tape so that it has a jagged, zig-zag edge? You'd be able to remove quite a bit of material that way. Might fit better.
#10
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For the 2mm stuff when you get to the bar ends pull it really tight for the last loop around. This should deform it around the bar end. Cut the tape off maybe 3/8" past the bar in a circle. You should be able to push it in with the plug at this point. Generally if you don't cut it off and just try to tuck the whole end in there, it will be too fat.
Yeah, you can use scissors to cut the tape end into strands to make it easier to tuck in. I don't usually find it necessary for 2mm tape.
^^^ This all assumes wrapping from the top down. If using 3mm tape, I'd suggest going from bottom to top in the modern manner.
Certain bars may have a smaller than usual ID. If using Velox plugs, you can sand or grind down the plug for an easier fit. IIRC I had to do this when installing VO bars on my PX10.
Yeah, you can use scissors to cut the tape end into strands to make it easier to tuck in. I don't usually find it necessary for 2mm tape.
^^^ This all assumes wrapping from the top down. If using 3mm tape, I'd suggest going from bottom to top in the modern manner.
Certain bars may have a smaller than usual ID. If using Velox plugs, you can sand or grind down the plug for an easier fit. IIRC I had to do this when installing VO bars on my PX10.
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I think the Fuzik bar plugs were just designed for modern bars with possibly bigger I.D.s?.....
Best solution, I think, is to just not use the plugs supplied by Fizik. One can just buy plugs with the correct diameter from eBay instead. There are lots to choose from.
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Agree, especially for the older smaller diam. The last batches of Fizik micro 2mm whatever are not like I've had from the past. It doesn't like tight radius either and tough to work out any wrinkles.
For bar plugs, I don't use the included Fizik but rather improvise with other type or make.
For bar plugs, I don't use the included Fizik but rather improvise with other type or make.
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Exactly. Wrapping top down does not work well with modern bar tapes. And that is why Fizik includes the “finishing” tape, so that you can secure the loose end at the top of the bars.
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I'm just going to get some thinner tape; I measured this and compared it to the Fizik Superlight tape on my other bike and determined that this isn't the Superlight tape I was led to believe I ordered. I was misled by the eBay seller I got it from. I get so sick and tired of these shysters trying to pass stuff off for what it isn't on eBay. eBay is getting to be such a lousy place to buy and sell things these days.
I've bought Jagwire housing in bulk off eBay. The last batch of housing I got was not the same quality housing that I usually get- BUT I did pay less for it. It was in sealed Jagwire packaging- I sort of have doubts as to whether it was actually Jagwire housing; but my overall thought is that it was a cheap line of Jagwire housing- more OEM than Premium. More often than not- you get what you pay for. If you pay much less for something, there's a reason for that. I got ****ty housing because I was too cheap to get the good stuff.
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When the plug is reluctant to go all the way in, I lube the whole ******* issue with some silicone grease, make sure I've had my Wheaties that morning, and giv'er
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Is it that hard to file down a piece of plastic? Takes like a minute to do both.
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DANG,.........DID I (Mr. Perfectionist) JUST SAY THAT???!
#18
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I like those plugs. They're very basic, black, and lightweight.
And I wish wrapping bars were the last thing I do to a build. I usually spend a few hours tuning everything, brakes especially. Now that can get tiresome.
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I always do the bar wrapping last, because i would have been done with all the stuff that gets my hands dirty and greasy on the build. Not the best thing to have dirty hands if you are handing white cork bar tape, which is my favorite....
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I recently did a wrap with fizik 3mm stuff. Getting it in the ends of the bars with the plugs supplied was a BEAR! It took a lot of patience and a rubber mallet. It is possible but very tough. Never again! Even the thinner 2.5mm fizik is difficult.
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After everything has been mounted on mine, the only thing to get dirty is if I handle the chain. And that's easy enough to immediately wipe off.
But I know what you mean about getting the bar tape dirty. Before I did all my own stuff, a mechanic wrapped my bars with the expensive leather wrap I supplied while he was doing other stuff and had grease on his hands. I couldn't believe he could be so thoughtless.
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On a new build with drop bars, don't you also want to ride it for at least a few MILES with no tape, in case you decide you want to relocate the levers based on fit?
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#23
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What if it's raining out, and that new tape is taunting me to wrap it already? Impatience surely gets the better of me.
#24
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This is what I use: 4 in 1 steel file.
If you want to wait two weeks, it's about half price from china. Harbor Freight sells 'em, too.
The roughest side makes very quick work of these plastic bar ends.
And they are an absolute must for all kinds of aluminum polishing. A file like this can remove deep zig-zags in seatposts and/or removing 0.2mm from them.
The only other file I use is rounded on one side, which is a must for deep gouges and tiny areas like road rash on brake levers and rear derailleurs.
If you want to wait two weeks, it's about half price from china. Harbor Freight sells 'em, too.
The roughest side makes very quick work of these plastic bar ends.
And they are an absolute must for all kinds of aluminum polishing. A file like this can remove deep zig-zags in seatposts and/or removing 0.2mm from them.
The only other file I use is rounded on one side, which is a must for deep gouges and tiny areas like road rash on brake levers and rear derailleurs.