jerman

I bought a '92 to '95 steel Trek Fast-Track T200 7-speed tandem a couple of months ago. I have ridden it around the neighborhood a couple of times then sent it to the shop for bar, brake, and handlebar upgrades. It has bar-end shifters.

Where I am now is the eyelets are pulling through the rims. The old 7-speed has a 140mm spread in the rear and I can get the old 7-speed hubs laced to some Velocity Dyads for $250.

However, since I need to have the hoops replaced anyway I was wondering if I should go to whole a new wheelset to get the modern 145mm spread. I can get 145mm take-off wheels and have the rear 'cold-set' to 145mm for $370. l would still be able to run the 7-speed with a spacer on the 145mm spread but the 145 spacing would allow the possibly of upgrading to 8, 9, or 10 speed brifters in the future. Not sure if I would end up doing the 8, 9, or 10 speed upgrade but at least with the 145mm spread the option would be there. I'm thinking this would probably also improve the resale marketability, so that's a plus.

Any thoughts??
Thanks...
Jerry

MNBikeCommuter

My first thought is that there'd be a fairly good chance that you could keep the current hub and dropout spacing, replace the freehub, and redish the wheel to get your upgrade. That's worked with two of my former 7 spd singles to go to 9 spd.

steve53mg

Jerry, I did what you are considering on my '93 Santana Visa. I cold set from 140 to 145 mm, and built new wheels based on a Shimano HF08 hub and Dyads. I replaced the sealed bearings in my Suzue front hub and reused it. I went with 9 speed and it works perfectly. I origionally replaced only my barcons and the old 7 speed LX derailleur worked fine, but later went with a new Mega der so I could go to 34 teeth on the cassette. I recommend biting the bullet and spreading the dropouts rather than bastardizing the wheels. This way you could always borrow a wheel or replace one easily if you need to in a hurry.

nfmisso

140 to 145 is a 3½% change in width; Jerry, you can push the 145mm OLD hub into the frame without cold setting - but it is your money. Chrome-moly is very forgiving. I would not try it with an aluminum or carbon frame, but no problem with chrome-moly or titanium.

Definitely get the 145mm rear wheel, no question. But I would skip the cold setting.

Onegun

Agree with getting the 145 wheels, but not skipping the cold setting. I believe the difference in price Jerry is talking about is primarily for getting the whole new wheelset as opposed to lacing new rims to his existing hubs. The shop probably isn't charging but a few dollars for bending .. er ...uh ... cold setting the frame.

And while you are absolutely right about being able to "push" a 145 wheel into a 140 frame, it's a PITA when you're out on the road. You've already got to get the wheel between the brakes, get the derailleur and chain positioned correctly, maybe you've even got rear bags or fenders to deal with, all while your stoker is holding up the bike, and you want to deal with manually spreading a very stiff rear triangle as well? I wouldn't. Not to save a couple of dollars.

waynesulak

I have cold set a single and I have to ask those who have done it a question:

How hard is it to do that on one of those old Trek's? 5mm is not very far but those steel Trek tandem frames are pretty stout. I can hear some grunting going on even with a long lever.

Wayne

Onegun

It is tough, Wayne. It takes at least two grown men, the Park FFS-2, and usually an extension pipe on the tool handle! A car jack type tool also has the power, but you can't control how much you bend each side. So those kind of tools often result in a misaligned frame.

jerman

Thanks for all of the replies.
The Velocity Dyads showed up at the shop two days ago so I had to make a desicion before reading all the replies. I OK'ed the mechanic to rebuild the rear wheel with the 140mm hub, it's a good Shimano hub.
I did talk with a guy from White Industries and he told me alignment was important with cold-setting for the brakes, rear deraileur, and chain alignment -- to make sure they fit and track properly. I just came to the conclusion that minimizing the cash put into this old bike would be best since I'm not sure this frame or if even tandeming is for me. However, after reading some of the replies it sounds like the Trek frame is pretty well respected, especially for being close to 20 years old. It is a beautiful red frame, the metalic paint is awesome, so if I decide to keep this bike longer term and upgrade to 8/9/10 speed brifters then I'll just buy a 145mm hub and have the wheel rebuilt with it. Then I'll get the frame cold-set for 145mm and aligned.
I've heard from the shops I've contacted that the modern tandems are significatly better and I would be wanting a newer model after one test ride. I guess time will tell!

waynesulak

I think you did the right thing. While the old Trek frames are a good value they are pretty heavy and stiff compared to modern steel frames. If you go all in on tandeming you will want to consider a whole new (or newer used) bike. You also have the option of upgrading the Trek and have the wheel respaced. Keeping your options open is a good idea.

Wayne

jerman

Thanks again. The Co-Motion Primera looks like a lot of quality bike for the money and that's not even addressing the pre-owned market, but I haven't found a lot of used tandems for sale out there. I'll ride the Trek and see if there's anything to this tandoming thing, who knows there may be. Afterall that interweb thing stuck around... who knew!

bobthib

Ok, here is my experience. I know it will raise some eyebrows, but take it FWIW.

I measured out my rear dropouts on my cheap ALU tandem frame. It measured 142mm. I decided to go with the 145 mm velocity deep v rims.

I've got about 2K mi on the bike over 2 yrs. Nothing exciting, some 40 and 50 mi rides with the wife and lots of 10 - 12 mi ride with my 8 yo grandson as stoker. Don't see any long or high speed rides in my tandem future. no sign of cracking in the rear end.

I'm not recommending this for any serious riders, but for my limited use, it's work so far.