Chasing the creak
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Chasing the creak
About a week and a half ago I started to get a creak that is rhythmic in nature. Only happens when pedaling but it can be while spinning or when applying decent pressure.
Mostly while seated but has happened a bit when standing. It originally sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket but some tell me it seems to be from the rear, tough to say given the reverb from the mix of steel and carbon frame.
So far I have re-applied carbon paste to the seat post topper, replaced the BB and chain (bb seemed fine but was due anyway), oiled the crossing of the rear spokes. Checked cleats and pedal mating surfaces, Removed and greased chainring bolts, and applied a bit of grease to the quick release cam. This all seemed to help but after a few rides creak came back. I have removed the cassette and rear hub seems ok but I haven’t popped bearings or replaced since they’re cartridges (industry 9 hubs with about 9k miles). I’ve also checked all welds and crankset for any fractures. I’m told that the sound is similar to what people have had prior to their Shimano cranks cracking (some reported instances but not widespread).
Any thoughts? It’s driving me absolutely batty. Will attempt to post poorly done video below. Sound does not happen when in the stand so obviously requires some pressure on the wheels.
Will report back with video need to upload to YouTube first I guess and can’t find account info!
Mostly while seated but has happened a bit when standing. It originally sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket but some tell me it seems to be from the rear, tough to say given the reverb from the mix of steel and carbon frame.
So far I have re-applied carbon paste to the seat post topper, replaced the BB and chain (bb seemed fine but was due anyway), oiled the crossing of the rear spokes. Checked cleats and pedal mating surfaces, Removed and greased chainring bolts, and applied a bit of grease to the quick release cam. This all seemed to help but after a few rides creak came back. I have removed the cassette and rear hub seems ok but I haven’t popped bearings or replaced since they’re cartridges (industry 9 hubs with about 9k miles). I’ve also checked all welds and crankset for any fractures. I’m told that the sound is similar to what people have had prior to their Shimano cranks cracking (some reported instances but not widespread).
Any thoughts? It’s driving me absolutely batty. Will attempt to post poorly done video below. Sound does not happen when in the stand so obviously requires some pressure on the wheels.
Will report back with video need to upload to YouTube first I guess and can’t find account info!
#3
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Can't tell from the video.. Bottle cages with or without bottle? I'd say thru or QR axle but you already addressed that and had it off and on again... Does it happen no hands, possible stem/bar related? A strap from a seat bag swinging hitting a rail? Sounds dumb but happened to me before. Is it on power from one crank only? Not sure what that would narrow down but....
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Can't tell from the video.. Bottle cages with or without bottle? I'd say thru or QR axle but you already addressed that and had it off and on again... Does it happen no hands, possible stem/bar related? A strap from a seat bag swinging hitting a rail? Sounds dumb but happened to me before. Is it on power from one crank only? Not sure what that would narrow down but....
I haven't checked the saddle rails (carbon) or the mating with seatpost topper also carbon (Enve)
#7
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Make sure your cassette is tightened down firmly. I had a very annoying creak that was due to the cassette being to loose.
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When watching the video on my phone the creak is very loud, on my computer hard to hear until about 26 seconds in.
Will definitely check the headset today, it has been 2.5 years since I installed it, jiggle test doesn't find it loose but worth actually checking for sure.
I have ensured sure that the cassette is torqued to proper specs. What are people's thoughts on rear axle and QR. Could the axle spin nicely, not appear loose or overly tight but simply require additional grease after time?
Will definitely check the headset today, it has been 2.5 years since I installed it, jiggle test doesn't find it loose but worth actually checking for sure.
I have ensured sure that the cassette is torqued to proper specs. What are people's thoughts on rear axle and QR. Could the axle spin nicely, not appear loose or overly tight but simply require additional grease after time?
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Just get out your torque wrench and go through the entire bike with proper torque specs. Found the source of my clicking because my crank arm was not torqued correctly. Also my right brifter was loose; took a full turn to tighten it and relieve my rattles over rough pavement.
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I haven't actually worked on hubs with cartridge bearings, any best practices to suggest, along with QR?
Done and done, still driving me crazy
Just get out your torque wrench and go through the entire bike with proper torque specs. Found the source of my clicking because my crank arm was not torqued correctly. Also my right brifter was loose; took a full turn to tighten it and relieve my rattles over rough pavement.
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One one of my bikes, I get creaking from the interface between the clamp nut on the thru-axle and the rear dropout. A film of grease is all that takes to fix that.
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Like everyone else has said, these can be hard to track down.
I had such a noise this past week. I adjusted the front derailleur and it was gone for my short test ride. I will see if it is gone when I go out for a longer ride in a bit.
I had such a noise this past week. I adjusted the front derailleur and it was gone for my short test ride. I will see if it is gone when I go out for a longer ride in a bit.
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I put a little grease on the cam of the QR but nothing where the axle or nuts interface with the drop out. Will try.
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will do. Definitely Torch, I have the torch tool kit and replacement bearing in the cart, but would be a shame to order if not needed. I'm thinking of finding a way to pull of the end caps easily to get access to the bearings and take a look
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About a week and a half ago I started to get a creak that is rhythmic in nature. Only happens when pedaling but it can be while spinning or when applying decent pressure.
Mostly while seated but has happened a bit when standing. It originally sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket but some tell me it seems to be from the rear, tough to say given the reverb from the mix of steel and carbon frame.
So far I have re-applied carbon paste to the seat post topper, replaced the BB and chain (bb seemed fine but was due anyway), oiled the crossing of the rear spokes. Checked cleats and pedal mating surfaces, Removed and greased chainring bolts, and applied a bit of grease to the quick release cam. This all seemed to help but after a few rides creak came back. I have removed the cassette and rear hub seems ok but I haven’t popped bearings or replaced since they’re cartridges (industry 9 hubs with about 9k miles). I’ve also checked all welds and crankset for any fractures. I’m told that the sound is similar to what people have had prior to their Shimano cranks cracking (some reported instances but not widespread).
Any thoughts? It’s driving me absolutely batty. Will attempt to post poorly done video below. Sound does not happen when in the stand so obviously requires some pressure on the wheels.
Will report back with video need to upload to YouTube first I guess and can’t find account info!
Mostly while seated but has happened a bit when standing. It originally sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket but some tell me it seems to be from the rear, tough to say given the reverb from the mix of steel and carbon frame.
So far I have re-applied carbon paste to the seat post topper, replaced the BB and chain (bb seemed fine but was due anyway), oiled the crossing of the rear spokes. Checked cleats and pedal mating surfaces, Removed and greased chainring bolts, and applied a bit of grease to the quick release cam. This all seemed to help but after a few rides creak came back. I have removed the cassette and rear hub seems ok but I haven’t popped bearings or replaced since they’re cartridges (industry 9 hubs with about 9k miles). I’ve also checked all welds and crankset for any fractures. I’m told that the sound is similar to what people have had prior to their Shimano cranks cracking (some reported instances but not widespread).
Any thoughts? It’s driving me absolutely batty. Will attempt to post poorly done video below. Sound does not happen when in the stand so obviously requires some pressure on the wheels.
Will report back with video need to upload to YouTube first I guess and can’t find account info!
what crankset are you using? I have the newest Dura Ace on my Ti roadbike and have a similar noise that too drives me crazy. I went through the same troubleshooting you mentioned in the thread and eventually gave up.
#23
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The last time I had a creak/squeak that was a pedaling-only scenario, sounded somewhat similar to what I could make out in the video over the sound of wind, it turned out to be the rear derailleur pulley wheels. Took em out, gave them a good ole cleaning and re-greasing along with the rest of the derailleur and it took care of the issue. Have you tried that?
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same boat as you and it WAS the shoe, cleat, pedal interface
Do you have another pair of cycling shoes you can try? Or simply put on some running shoes and pedal the bike that way for a ways. Get back to me with an answer.
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The last time I had a creak/squeak that was a pedaling-only scenario, sounded somewhat similar to what I could make out in the video over the sound of wind, it turned out to be the rear derailleur pulley wheels. Took em out, gave them a good ole cleaning and re-greasing along with the rest of the derailleur and it took care of the issue. Have you tried that?
I put a little film of grease on the mating surfaces of the axle and drop out today will see if that helps. May swing by LBS tomorrow if I have the time and look at some new QR’s as well. Have the tools and bearings in the cart with I9. Wheels have close to 10k on them so maybe good to service anyway