Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

High Limit Adjustment on Ultegra Front Derailleur

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

High Limit Adjustment on Ultegra Front Derailleur

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-18-11, 10:39 PM
  #1  
ahilito
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
High Limit Adjustment on Ultegra Front Derailleur

Hi guys,

I'm completely new here, so excuses if I'm posting in the wrong section or anything.
I've already referred to this older thread but couldn't get any info to help: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-687361.html

I'm running a Shimano Ultegra 10-speed groupset. The front derailleur isn't even getting close to getting onto the outter cog (double chain-ring). The limit screw doesn't seem to get any movement at all. I've tried so much different stuff, so I'm on the verge of packing it in and going to a bike shop. This derailleur is brand new, could it be something to do with how I've got the cable in the brake-shifter?

It has full movement when I push the brake-shifter, but when it clicks in it's pretty far off the outer cog, though the change is substantial. It all seems fine apart from the stuff explained above.

Any help will be very very much appreciated.

Ahil
ahilito is offline  
Old 07-18-11, 10:45 PM
  #2  
gw280
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Did you take out the slack in the derailleur wire before clamping it down?

Take a look at this video which should be very similar to your setup if you're running 6700: https://www.pbkblog.com/shimano-dura-...on-video/2009/
gw280 is offline  
Old 07-18-11, 11:33 PM
  #3  
ahilito
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by gw280
Did you take out the slack in the derailleur wire before clamping it down?

Take a look at this video which should be very similar to your setup if you're running 6700: https://www.pbkblog.com/shimano-dura-...on-video/2009/
hey thanks for that video. You mean the pulling on the cable he does around 10.40, right? Yeah, I hadn't been doing that. But I've tried it a couple times just now and it still isn't helping. I notice he's holding the cable in place with his fingers. I wonder if I need to try with some pliers? I think I did that when I first installed the derailleur and it worked back then.
ahilito is offline  
Old 07-18-11, 11:47 PM
  #4  
Psimet2001 
I eat carbide.
 
Psimet2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 21,627

Bikes: Lots. Van Dessel and Squid Dealer

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1325 Post(s)
Liked 1,306 Times in 560 Posts
Put down the pliers and step away from the bicycle.

It's not that hard. The limit screw determines how far out the derail can move. The cable tension causes the derail to move out that far. the two together make the derail work correctly.
__________________
PSIMET Wheels, PSIMET Racing, PSIMET Neutral Race Support, and 11 Jackson Coffee
Podcast - YouTube Channel
Video about PSIMET Wheels

Psimet2001 is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 07:49 AM
  #5  
hao
Senior Member
 
hao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
your cable is too slack.
hao is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 04:53 PM
  #6  
ahilito
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Put down the pliers and step away from the bicycle.

It's not that hard. The limit screw determines how far out the derail can move. The cable tension causes the derail to move out that far. the two together make the derail work correctly.
yeah fair enough it is simple.

But regardless my high limit screw isn't getting any movement and the derailleur does need to be tensioned for the high limit to be adjusted right?
ahilito is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 05:02 PM
  #7  
gw280
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The cable itself is used to pull the derailleur out towards the big chainring. If the tension in the cable isn't high enough, it doesn't move out far enough. The high limit serves to move the derailleur the other way, i.e. it adjusts the high limit back towards the small chainring.
gw280 is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 06:31 PM
  #8  
milkbaby
blah blah blah
 
milkbaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ur-adjustments

The HL screw isn't supposed to move (unless you're using a screwdriver on it at the time); if it does, it won't be doing it's job properly. It's like a parking lot bumper, just an obstacle that part of the derailleur hits and keeps it from moving too far and throwing your chain off. Technically, you don't need any cable tension to set the high limit as you can push the cage over all the way by hand until it hits the screw and eyeball that it won't throw the chain over the outside of the big chainring...
milkbaby is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 08:08 PM
  #9  
ErichM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I always just set the low limit with the cable detached, then attach it with the shifter set on the low ring, pull it tight with my hand and set the high limit. If you have barrel adjusters then you can take the slack out of the cable with those, if not you can set the low limit screw a bit off where it should be so when you back it off it puts tension on the cable.

Anyway, check out park tool's website as linked to above, it has all the info you need.

Edit: When I say slack I mean a little bit of slack, you do need to attach the cable so the cable is fairly taut.
ErichM is offline  
Old 07-19-11, 11:44 PM
  #10  
ahilito
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by milkbaby
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ur-adjustments

The HL screw isn't supposed to move (unless you're using a screwdriver on it at the time); if it does, it won't be doing it's job properly. It's like a parking lot bumper, just an obstacle that part of the derailleur hits and keeps it from moving too far and throwing your chain off. Technically, you don't need any cable tension to set the high limit as you can push the cage over all the way by hand until it hits the screw and eyeball that it won't throw the chain over the outside of the big chainring...
sorry, I explained myself really poorly there. I mean my HL Screw isn't getting any movement out of the derailleur at all (not closer in or further out).
But I think what you're saying there makes things a bit clearer to me.

Thanks a lot for the links etc guys, I'll get back to it
ahilito is offline  
Old 07-20-11, 12:02 AM
  #11  
Ansir
Senior Member
 
Ansir's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NOLA
Posts: 103

Bikes: 06 KHS flite 300 00 Cannondale F1000

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Its hard to see the movement on the high gear, I usually shift or push on the derailleur towards the big ring to get it seated in the new position.

Use your barrel adjusters for the fine tuning and if it gets to hard to downshift u have 2 much tension.
Ansir is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KonaRider125
Bicycle Mechanics
13
02-14-17 10:50 PM
TomTcyling
General Cycling Discussion
3
01-26-17 05:54 PM
The B
Bicycle Mechanics
18
02-03-14 09:09 PM
KoolKeith
Road Cycling
2
06-19-13 07:26 AM
Fajaz
Road Cycling
30
10-13-10 06:19 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.