bikemig 

That will take a lot of evaporust won't it? I thought that's why people will use an OA bath because it's less expensive.

jonwvara 

It takes about a gallon and a half of evaporust.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...evaporust.html

And it doesn't even use up that gallon and a half, since you can pour it back into the original jugs for re-use later.

TugaDude

I'm enjoying this thread! I love the photos and the original spec. sheet, the photo of the racing team, all of it. Can't wait to see more.

Roypercy

Very cool. I'm envious! I love the eccentricities of a French bike. Can't wait to see more

crank_addict

Thanks all for inspiring confidence.

A required Helicomatic tool arrived today, complete with built-in bottle opener. Perfect ;")

top506

With a Gitane, a Motobecane, and a Pug in the barn I would have been all over this.

Top

bikemig 

I'm with you. You can never have too many French bikes.

I've looked around on and off for a Follis. This bike would have tempted me as well.

repechage

I think you will like how the bike handles.
that rear derailleur ... every time I see one I am reminded of the movie Brazil for some reason.

steelbikeguy

good heavens... isn't it hard to find a good Helicomatic freewheel? I don't suppose they designed the cogs to be compatible with some other brand??
About the only way you could have made life harder would be to use a Cinelli Bivalent hub and freewheel.

Steve in Peoria

crank_addict

Peeled it down with a bit nuisance and seized aluminum crank caps.

Prior service shows an attempt with a poor Allen wrench and was partially rounded out. So, what to do? Cut a slice across the cap and with a screwdriver, tap one half of it counterclockwise. Both sides done, the rest disassembled with ease. Surprisingly, the bearings were well greased and in great condition. The Nervar bottom bracket spindle is beastly and uses plastic bearing cages. No spindle protective sleeve. (Pics later)

Frame bath with mild liquid formula Bar Keepers Friend. Note difference of the clean in progress right seat stay vs the left. Chrome has rough areas but overall, the frame is solid and ding free. Paint chipped and flaws, I'm not planning to touch it up. Cleaner wax and done.

The insides are getting an overnight white vinegar soak with follow up Seafoam coating.

bikemig 

This is going to clean up nicely.

crank_addict

Embellished stem and handlebar fun.

Likely the handlebar wrap is original and thought why not just leave it?! Not perfect but fits the bikes overall appearance. Going with flying French flag colors by keeping the white AME hoods, red wrap and using blue cable.

Drilled the customary small holes at the stem split to prevent any potential stress risers. Belleri on stem is spelled different from handlebar. Mothers polish for a quick rescue.

The original long stem bolt was snapped at the top! Now replaced.

Had the TA stem cable guide stashed away and figured this is appropriate here.

Nemosengineer 

Here is a link to replacement silicone grommets for the TA cable guide, these are the correct orange color and the same size and fit as the originals.

https://www.mcmaster.com/1061t25

Best Wishes: Mike

bikemig 

I've never seen the TA stem cable guide. Zip ties are lighter and cheaper for a weight weenie build but not really period correct,

So are there some threads on drilling holes on the stem split to relieve any potential stress risers? I haven't read about this. I have to admit, bar or stem failure on an old bike is something I think a little bit about. It's such a bad place for a parts failure. It's one of the reasons why I like running a new Nitto bar and stem on my builds.

francophile 

Same concept as cracks in concrete. Drill a hole at the end of the split to terminate the cracking. Only with concrete/masonry you'd probably use a filler, or self-leveling sealant if it's a floor.

In the case of stems, you'll notice a lot of them already have a 'cul de sac' at the end of the split in the stem, this is to prevent cracking. A few varieties of stems didn't have this and are prone to cracking at the 'end of the road' unless you drill a 'cul de sac' at the end. I prefer using a step bit (uni-bit, whatever you prefer) at the end of the split to get a nice, round bulb where it needs to be.

francophile 

PS: Kurt has a great write-up on death stems here: https://theheadbadge.blogspot.com/20...-and-atax.html

Many companies were guilty, pretty sure this is a 3TTT stem here, you can see where it's cracking, at the corner, 90° angles are a common fatigue point, focused stress, and why the drill-out trick is a good preventative measure.:



And here's an instructional picture from Chas:

steelbikeguy

nice looking stuff! Indeed, it would be a shame to get rid of the tape.
I always thought the TA cable guide was an interesting device. Not sure how much difference it makes, but kind of fun.
Plus... it is one more vote for the "cables behind the bars" configuration!
I hope you can find new grommets for it, though.

Steve in Peoria

crank_addict

Dig the headbadge denoting 'tandem'.




Inside of Pepe le Pew tubes are decent. Odd there's no gas vent holes or access to the seat stay tubes, so no way to spray protectant for the insides. I suppose could drill a small hole but will leave it for now. Frame structure is sound.

crank_addict

Not wanting to rethread the crank, these Atom pedals with the 'droit' threads arrived. They spin nice though will get a full service.

squirtdad

This started with a tubular tire purpose.....just goes to show that tubies are the devil "tubies rhyme with T and stand for Trouble, right here in C&V city"

crank_addict

Indeed!

The irony, er contrary is I'm planning to use Belgium made Weinmann concave 700c hookless clinchers. Situation awareness, we continue on...

Frame is spiffed enough with corrosion removed and coated inside and out. With chrome degraded in many areas, it wouldn't pay to redo but for a complete coverage of paint. I like and accept the way it is, looking forward to the next phase of component clean and service.

As if it matters.... call it a 6 plus pounder-

Follis 172 fork

Follis 172 frame

crank_addict

Not much to update other than the frame is ready for the build. When first seeing the exterior, I was concerned of corrosion on the insides, however its now really clean and oil fogged.

TenGrainBread 

Night and day.

noglider 

Seriously. I didn't know one could do this.

bikemig 

A Follis is on the short list of bikes I'd like to own; this is a cool project.