cqlink 

Hello all,

I recently found a 1972 PX-10 frame for $70.00 that's more than a little rough, however since I've always wanted to ride one periodically during a season here in Detroit, I launched a thread looking for parts. I felt if I could build a bike up from whatever parts I could cobble together at a reasonable price I'd take a shot at building up the frame.

To no surprise, MANY members here helped me identify and find the parts needed to build this bike. A few asked for pics of the start point so I thought I'd start a new thread similar to my last build: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...welcome-3.html

Before I begin, I'd like to note, the common theme with EVERYONE (too many to list) helping me start this project is to get another old PX-10 on the road, not parts profit. As we all know, that attitude is what makes this site great. For me, it's a BIG plus because I can NEVER keep to any budget I try to establish for a complete build.

Pics below provide a fair idea of my start point. Frame seller thought the frame was involved in an accident and I believe he's correct. Using Park alignment tools and a straight edge, string, etc. I saw 2-3 approx. 0.5mm to 1.5mm "gaps" where the top tube and down tube join the head tube. When I took the frame to my LBS who does a great job brazing, repairing, etc., for a second opinion they said it wouldn't be worth the effort to straighten the tops for that little of a variance. As this a shop I trust, I decide to press on with a build.

Here are a few pics of my start point. I plan to take my time with this build but will post periodic updates for those interested. I'm approx. 50% with the clean-up process. As I noted during my last Paramount build, touching up paint correctly is time consuming and takes a number of steps to get it right. It's not particularly hard but time consuming. I'll post pics of the clean frame upon completion.

francophile 

Fixed that for you.

Can't wait to watch this unfold.

shoota 

Dang, you shoulda had me go get the nervex lugged PX-10 languishing here locally for that price.

cqlink 

LOL.....but close thanks to Mr. Joe (and still hoping to grab a few more pieces from you and Mr. Greg)!

merziac

So completed pics tomorrow, right.

The power of the forum at work again.

Glad you went with the Simplex SP, crappy or no, they are a iconic to this iconic bike.

greg3rd48 

I am excited to see this unfold and of course I will gladly help with parts if you need.

John E

Why do people put kickstands on PX-10s? At least they do not appear to have flattened your chainstays.

dddd

Americans were used to seeing kickstands on bicycles during the bike boom years, so this no doubt got more PX10's sold to the newbe's who stopped riding them upon first puncturing one of the tubular tires.
It's why we can still find these bikes in unused condition for sale as often as we do.

francophile 

This is one of my pet peeves. Had a discussion with @greg3rd48 about this a while back. At least 1/3 of the Reynolds-tubed Peugeots I've worked on over the last decade had someone install a clamping kickstand on them. I finally managed to get one in my size, top of the chainstays looked good, bottom shows some rubout but no deforming or clamp marks on the OP's, so I guess I'm fortunate.

And if no clamping kickstand damage, there's inevitably one somewhere in the mix with trainer damage.

cqlink 

Update (for those that may want to follow build and cost progress):

As I alluded to during my last Paramount build, touching up a frame takes a bit of time to do "correctly." That said, a good touch up process is no substitute for a quality respray. As cost control is a factor with this build, I went the touch-up route.

To get a decent touched-up finish, I've found over the years, scratches and nicks need to be looked at as very small craters or ravines. The right combination of paint and acetone (or whatever thinner you prefer) is needed to get the mix to completely flow into the scratch or nick. You want to avoid brush strokes and let the mix flow from the SMALL brush. Even so, it may take a cycle or two of paint and drying to get the touched-up area to match the surrounding paint.

With my frame it's going to take at least two cycles to get the touch-up correct. Once complete, the finished touch-up will take another two weeks for the paint to harden to the point where Meguires 205 may be used to blend in the new paint with the surrounding area. This frame had a LOT of scratches and nicks so it's going to take some time. If you can zoom in on the first pic below, you can see where a fairly deep nick on the top tube just near the head tube requires a second paint "fill" to bring the paint level up to the surrounding paint. Similar condition exists at the bottom of the stays pictured.

I'm at approx. 40% frame clean-up completion. Here's are the aforementioned pics and a few others:






The wheel behind the frame belongs to an old Super Sport I've hung on the wall with a few other bikes. My boss was complaining I had too many in the garage:

jadocs

Amazing!

cqlink 

Yes. Overnight (time is relative):

About 90% complete with the frame clean-up. Added a few bits:




Got tied up with this. I posted it on the "are you looking for..." thread with a tag, "Needs Some Love:



Couldn't resist. I picked it up for $80 and found the groupset with upgraded Campy Record small flange hubs for $100:

rjhammett

I too am in the process of building up a PX10. Mine is actually a UX10 which is the clincher tire version of the PX10. I believe mine is a '75 or '76. Here are a couple pictures. One is the original as purchased frame with some of the components removed and the other is the refurbished frame. I did update many of the components that were on the bike when purchased.

UKFan4Sure

Love me some Schwinn.....

cqlink 

Cleaned up nicely!

cqlink 

Progress Report...

I'm getting close to the finish line. Ordered bar tape and I'm looking for reasonably priced tubular tires. As of today, I've around $290 into the build. Fortunate to have a fellow Forum member provide a complete PX-10 group, otherwise cost would have been approx. $100 more.

I'm finishing the brakes, FD and RD cables, then final clean-up an polish. Looking for a French seat tube 531 decal.

The paint on the BB was chipped and worn. No way to touch-up. Instead, I masked the frame and rattle canned it. After that, I waited a day and used Meguires 105 and 205 to blend. I'll use Mothers Aluminum and Mag for the chrome.

The black plastic bits and brake hoods were brought back to life with a dab or two of liquid silicone. It does a great job on plastic. I've used it on a number of black plastic bits on old cars.

Here's a few pics of where I'm at:

francophile 

Holy crap that's awesome! You know it's good when the only thing a guy can pick apart is a little orange spot on a dropout (below)

Maybe it's just the close-up but the cup doesn't quite look secured or flush with the BB shell.

cqlink 

Since this build was going too smoothly (albeit, slow), I needed to spice things up by breaking the FD cable guide.

Can any of you post a pic detailing the correct routing with cable housing?

I'm not getting much , if any lateral movement when I shift. The cable pressure broke the plastic guide as seen in the pic.

Also, if anyone has another guide they'd like to part with, let me know.

Edit: (see Pic2) There was enough of the plastic left on the guide allowing me to butt the cable housing up to the broken piece. I also cut a piece of housing long enough to jam it next to the grooved metal slot leading into the FD cable hole. Doesn't look great but it's functional.

Still looking to replace.



Pic2:

KenNC

Bummer! I believe that guide requires a cable housing on the left side, between the guide and the stop on the derailleur, rather than a direct, un-housed, run of the inner cable.

cqlink 

Yep. I had the housing there but didn't thread the cable correctly.

Of course, figured it out the hard way

francophile 

This may be the only time in BF history when someone complains about not seeing the non-drive side of a bike

You need a spare Simplex cable guide now? PM over an address and I'll ship you one, on the house.

cqlink 

My bad. Drive side photo. Bar tape and tubs forthcoming...

Shifts great. Absolutely nothing wrong with regreased Normandy hubs! Have to say the Mavic Racer brakes were very easy to install and adjust.

John E

Those are great-looking bikes, and I am enjoying watching yours come together. Did I miss it, or have you decided which tubulars to buy for it? (Where I live, goat head thorns are rampant, which caused me to give up tubulars when I moved here 40 years ago, but now that I have two Capo Siegers, it would make sense to put tubulars on one of them.)

cqlink 

Holding off on the tubs until April. A local forum member has a number on hand. The $3 for $50 Yellow Jacket specials looked like a deal but had mixed reviews so I'll hold off for a bit.

Rollfast

Because a dropstand is even worse, which is why they started using kickstands on the antique 26" bikes just before WW II I suppose.