How to remove Suntour Winner / New Winner lock ring?
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How to remove Suntour Winner / New Winner lock ring?
I have a couple of Suntour Winner and New Winner freewheels that I'd like to open up, clean and re-lubricate. These have the lock ring that has two small notches.
I located one of the spanner tools for that ring, and I should have that in week-- but I was wondering if there is another method to remove that ring in case that tool doesn't work all that well.
Has anyone removed the lock ring without that tool?
I located one of the spanner tools for that ring, and I should have that in week-- but I was wondering if there is another method to remove that ring in case that tool doesn't work all that well.
Has anyone removed the lock ring without that tool?
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Years ago, I made my own tool to hold the center portion of the freewheel in a vise while I used a two pin tool to remove the ring. I still have the tool. I will see if I can get a picture of it tonight.
It is basically an aluminum cylinder that was able to machine two different diameters on. One for the notch and one to fit through the hole in the center of the freewheel Then I used a hack saw and I file to make the tangs to fit into the notches. I would engage the tool into the notches, and pass the body through the freewheel where I could clamp it to a vise.
I know, a lot of words that may or may not make sense. I will try to remember to get the picture tonight.
It is basically an aluminum cylinder that was able to machine two different diameters on. One for the notch and one to fit through the hole in the center of the freewheel Then I used a hack saw and I file to make the tangs to fit into the notches. I would engage the tool into the notches, and pass the body through the freewheel where I could clamp it to a vise.
I know, a lot of words that may or may not make sense. I will try to remember to get the picture tonight.
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There are other ways to make this tool. I happened to have access to a lathe at the time. If I had to do it now, I would probably use steel key stock to engage the notches. And attach this to a steel shaft with screws or pins and screws.
#4
Banned
I recommend soaking in solvent and then relubing with another immersion,in oil,
without releasing the zillion tiny balls to be lost..
New Winner Pro , Lubes thru a hole uncovered when you remove your freewheel..
without releasing the zillion tiny balls to be lost..
New Winner Pro , Lubes thru a hole uncovered when you remove your freewheel..
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The New Winner can be a royal PITA when it comes to service. Sometimes they open right up, other times they defy all attempts, even after using lots of penetrating oil or heat. A hammer and punch can also be used but be aware that the notch edges are easily damaged.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.
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Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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I just recently overhauled a NW Freewheel with new bearings, and I took pics to document ..l'll upload tomorrow. The adjustable bearing load lock design and using the dedicated tool makes it a fairly routine process just like replacing bearings in a hub. Presoaking in a penetrating oil isnt a bad idea if one thinks the lock ring might be seized. Pics tomorrow!
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The tool goes through the center hole and the tangs engage into the notches. It is held by a vise under the freewheel.
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Velo Mule, very clever tool!
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This particular fw had spent significant time outdoors on a scrap pile in the elements. Rotation was rough, it wobbled, and it made klunking noises when I rode even though I flushed & oiled it several times. As stated previously, the notches can be damaged easily so leaving the fw on the hub & using the dedicated tool locked with a skewer allows for better leverage.
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I was surprised it was still quite dirty inside with all the flushing I'd done. I left the pawl springs in place while cleaning because I didn't think it was necessary.
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Once back together, adjusting the bearing load was similar to wheel bearings. I think the tool really helps make the adjusting process an easier task. I didn't overly tighten the lock ring when I reinstalled as I wanted to perform some test rides. I've got a few hundred miles on it now. It's as smooth as silk, no wobble or play, cranks will spin backward a few rotations as I thought they should, and it has a wonderful clicking sound as it freewheels.
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I've had two Perfect freewheels disassemble themselves while riding, and the incidents were preceded with that clunking (twice per wheel revolution). The cone had backed off, leaving some slop in the bearings. This allows the freewheel body to pivot on the pawls, producing the clunk.
More recently, I had gotten some New Winners from a friend. When one of them started the clunking, I was fortunate to find a spanner for sale and readjust the bearings. Haven't had a repeat of that issue, fortunately, but I still have the occasional nightmare about that clunk (just kidding, mostly).
Thanks for the documentation of the overhaul! Well done!
Steve in Peoria
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@dwing -- Great pics and procedures on how to overhaul a Winner / New Winner-- Thank you!
I'll try mine and see how far I get once the tool arrives.
I'll try mine and see how far I get once the tool arrives.
#16
elcraft
Generally, when I repack free wheels, I leave them mounted on the bicycle wheel during the process of loosening the cone/lock ring. I only loosen it enough so that I can unassemble it AFTER removing it from the wheel. I favor the modified punch and hammer approach to loosening the ring. Pin tools seem to inevitably slip out of the holes unless clamped down using large fender washers and the wheel's axle. Making a set up to hold the pin tool in place is pretty challenging in its own right, whereas the hammer and punch method is fairly quick and dirty.
Additionally, I use tuna cans, lined with adhesive magnetic sheet ( available from Ace Hardware) to capture all the ball bearings. The can is just the right size to sit under the free wheel as you disassemble it. I have made, some years ago, a special "pawl and spring holder" that lays across the free wheel body keeping the pawls recessed. This home made tool aids in allowing the inner free wheel body to slip into the freshly greased and ball bearing loaded outer body without dislodging any of the bearings. I made this tool/ "pawl retainer" from an aluminum soft drink can.
I do defer , however, to PastorBob in all matters free wheel related; his encyclopedic experience trumps mine. I have, only repacked Maillard/ Atom , the lower end Sun Tour and Shimano , and some 30 years ago, a Regina. Doesn't really stack up to Free wheel Spa.......
Additionally, I use tuna cans, lined with adhesive magnetic sheet ( available from Ace Hardware) to capture all the ball bearings. The can is just the right size to sit under the free wheel as you disassemble it. I have made, some years ago, a special "pawl and spring holder" that lays across the free wheel body keeping the pawls recessed. This home made tool aids in allowing the inner free wheel body to slip into the freshly greased and ball bearing loaded outer body without dislodging any of the bearings. I made this tool/ "pawl retainer" from an aluminum soft drink can.
I do defer , however, to PastorBob in all matters free wheel related; his encyclopedic experience trumps mine. I have, only repacked Maillard/ Atom , the lower end Sun Tour and Shimano , and some 30 years ago, a Regina. Doesn't really stack up to Free wheel Spa.......
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That lock ring is reverse thread, correct?
#18
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The New Winner can be a royal PITA when it comes to service. Sometimes they open right up, other times they defy all attempts, even after using lots of penetrating oil or heat. A hammer and punch can also be used but be aware that the notch edges are easily damaged.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.
I like that as the attending mechanic, you have full control over the bearing preload, without resorting to unobtanium shims.
I can never remember. Drives me crazy.
#19
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Look closely at @dwing 's pictures and you will see an arrow pointing in the correct direction.
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
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Bob
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Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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here's a shot of one of my New Winners. Looks like conventional RH threads.
IIRC, most/all other freewheels use cones w/o lockrings, and they use LH threads (but I haven't checked my stash of spare SunTour bodies to confirm)
Steve in Peoria
IIRC, most/all other freewheels use cones w/o lockrings, and they use LH threads (but I haven't checked my stash of spare SunTour bodies to confirm)
Steve in Peoria
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Unscrew the lockring first , standard thread, counterclockwise as indicated on the FW. IMHO, install new bearings ..youre only ever going to do this once to fix an issue that soaking in oil hasnt done to your satisfaction. The fuss about spilling bearings has me puzzled.
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The New Winner can be a royal PITA when it comes to service. Sometimes they open right up, other times they defy all attempts, even after using lots of penetrating oil or heat. A hammer and punch can also be used but be aware that the notch edges are easily damaged.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.
When and if you do manage to loosen the lock rings, take care to do so over a bowl or towel which will catch the loose ball bearings. There was a good reason why this design never caught on at Suntour and was never copied by any other freewheel manufacturer.
Best of luck and let us know how you do.