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Repair stand rust, Park Tool PCS-10.3 vs PRS-25

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Repair stand rust, Park Tool PCS-10.3 vs PRS-25

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Old 12-26-23, 10:27 AM
  #1  
Wattsup
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Repair stand rust, Park Tool PCS-10.3 vs PRS-25

I wrote in another post that I recently bought the Park PCS 10.3. Surprise of surprises, I woke up yesterday to a beautiful bike tool gift, (thanks girl friend!) the Park PRS-25! Ain't see the best? She knew that I wanted a new bike stand, bought the 25 before I bought the 10.3. It's too late to return the 10.3, but after playing with the PRS-25 for a few minutes, the 10.3 is the keeper anyway.

The steel 10.3 is actually MORE stable than the lighter aluminum PRS-25. First difference is the leg length. The 10.3's legs are a few inches longer, and I believe they're splayed at a slightly larger angle. I tipped the front of the bike (only 23lbs) up in the 25, as one would do to bleed the rear brake, and that bike really wants to tip forward and fall over a leg. I thought the 10.3 was not stable enough in this configuration? The 25 is far worse, just a tiny push with a finger sends it tipping, and that's WITH the rear wheel still on the bike. Remove the rear wheel, and it's worse. The 10.3 is a rock compared to the 25 here. Also, just manipulating the bike, just latching in the clamp is harder, because the 25 is so lightweight, especially the legs, that you have to keep one foot on a leg sometimes as you adjust the bike or clamp it in. I guess one would get accustomed to doing it without a human leg on the stand leg, but the instability in the first position is a deal breaker for me. In addition, my saddle post twists in the 25's clamp, no matter how hard you tighten the clamp. The 10.3's clamp grabs it and allows no twist. My thinking here is that maybe the 25's rubber jaw material is made a bit harder to stand up to more use, and the surface will get more "grabby" in a few months. In any case, the 25's going back. I think it's main advantage over the 10.3 is that it's more portable, (although the clamp is a beast) and it won't rust. That's what I want to ask here.

After just using the 10.3 once to wash my bike, I can see that's it's already starting to rust on the inside of the vertical tube. There's no blue powder paint on the inside of the tubes. Right now it's just a very light rust, but I'm sure it will get worse.

I'm of two minds on this. On the one hand I can go to great lengths to cover the water entry points with tape or something when washing, use some of some kind of rust preventive, or......just let her rip, don't worry about it, just take the tube out to dry when I'm done, and be done with it.

Any ideas? What kind of rust preventative could I use? Remember, the one tube has to slide within the other. I could spray a light oil or something in the tube, but my concern is that the friction switch would have trouble holding up the tube when extended. And then there's the mess. What are my options?
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Old 12-26-23, 11:20 AM
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Hello This stuff is supposed to work wonders on existing and preventing rust. I just sprayed it on my snow blower over existing rust. Reviews state it a great product for rust prevention. Might work for you. youtu.be/ptayWtW1So8
MowerParts Group Lubrication/corrosion inhibitor 11.75 Oz Orange on Amazon
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Old 12-26-23, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Velometry
Hello This stuff is supposed to work wonders on existing and preventing rust. I just sprayed it on my snow blower over existing rust. Reviews state it a great product for rust prevention. Might work for you. youtu.be/ptayWtW1So8
MowerParts Group Lubrication/corrosion inhibitor 11.75 Oz Orange on Amazon
Yes, that's Fluid Film. I've familiar with it....I think I have a can or two. It's a mixture of lanolin and a mineral oil carrier. My only concern is that it might leave the tube tool slippery, and the friction collar might not hold up the bike. Anyone us Fluidfilm on a stand?
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Old 12-26-23, 11:28 AM
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or just spray some Boeshield in there and quit worrying about it

life is short and there's lots to do

/markp
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Old 12-26-23, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
or just spray some Boeshield in there and quit worrying about it

life is short and there's lots to do

/markp
I hear you. I'm leaning toward the "Don't worry about it" option, but I thought I'd just see if could use something and THEN not worry about. I've never used Boeshield. Do you think the coating it leaves would grease it up too much, or would hinder the operation of the tubes, one sliding into the other? It's not like I can try it and see. It would be a real PIA to get it out if it didn't work well.
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Old 12-26-23, 01:09 PM
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I’ve owned a Park 10.x stand for about 6.5 yrs and regularly use it to wash bikes — and give it no maintenance. I think you’re worried over a non- issue.
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Old 12-26-23, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I’ve owned a Park 10.x stand for about 6.5 yrs and regularly use it to wash bikes — and give it no maintenance. I think you’re worried over a non- issue.
Always great to hear from an owner. I’m not worried really, just wondering. I know it won’t be red dust in 10 years, but it just bothers me a little to just let it rust inside.
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Old 12-26-23, 04:27 PM
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I got a used Park 10.x stand and yeah no rust issues at all. I wouldn't really worry about it Park probably designed it so that would be less likely to happen however you could ask Park what they would recommend if anything. Obviously yes you can do some of the rust measures above but I wouldn't worry too much.
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Old 12-26-23, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
Yes, that's Fluid Film. I've familiar with it....I think I have a can or two. It's a mixture of lanolin and a mineral oil carrier. My only concern is that it might leave the tube tool slippery, and the friction collar might not hold up the bike. Anyone us Fluidfilm on a stand?
I use fluidfilm on the underside of garden tractor mower decks

good stuff (but $$$)

would not use it on a bike stand (or anything on or near a bike)
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Old 12-26-23, 09:31 PM
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Amsoil MP is what I would use.

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/da...tins/g3109.pdf
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Old 12-26-23, 10:16 PM
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If it makes you feel better just give it a light wipe down with some light oil and call it a day. Don't know the exact model the track team has, looks similar but its old at this point so probably an earlier version, not only is rust not an issue and its only stored in a leaky storage container, but the locking clamp does a very good job of holding and I couldn't imagine a little light oil causing it to slip.
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Old 12-27-23, 04:30 AM
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You don't have enough time left on earth for it to matter. Use your time wisely and do something fun or truly productive.
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Old 12-27-23, 07:52 AM
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streetsurfer suggestion is the best protectant I have used but would depend on your weather, washing frequency as well as your tolerance of rust. Rusting would bother me in my stands so I have an outside wash rack. My first Park bought in 1983 is still performing perfectly.
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Old 12-27-23, 08:07 AM
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And how much water you use presumably. I use hardly any when it’s on the stand, just a bit from a plant spray bottle and I have a waterproof mat with a beach towel on top of that under the bike to protect the stand but mostly the garage floor.

If the bike’s filthy I’ll hold it on the grass and use a gentle hose spray (away from the bearings) or let it dry and brush it down to get rid of 90% of it
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Old 12-27-23, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
I got a used Park 10.x stand and yeah no rust issues at all. I wouldn't really worry about it Park probably designed it so that would be less likely to happen however you could ask Park what they would recommend if anything. Obviously yes you can do some of the rust measures above but I wouldn't worry too much.
No rust issues at all? Do you use yours to wash your bike? Have you ever looked into the tubes with a flashlight? If not, I think you're in for a surprise. I called Park today, and they said you can use a light oil like WD-40 or CLP. Just don't use very much. I'm leaning towards using nothing at all.
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Old 12-28-23, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
Any ideas? What kind of rust preventative could I use? Remember, the one tube has to slide within the other. I could spray a light oil or something in the tube, but my concern is that the friction switch would have trouble holding up the tube when extended. And then there's the mess. What are my options?
Does your detergent have a high salt content?
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Old 12-29-23, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpus
Does your detergent have a high salt content?
How'd you know?
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Old 12-30-23, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
How'd you know?
The product safety data sheet might show it.
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Old 12-31-23, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Wattsup
No rust issues at all? Do you use yours to wash your bike? Have you ever looked into the tubes with a flashlight? If not, I think you're in for a surprise. I called Park today, and they said you can use a light oil like WD-40 or CLP. Just don't use very much. I'm leaning towards using nothing at all.
I don't use it for outdoor washing with a hose I just spray it with cleaners and do it that way. I haven't looked inside though the exterior looks good with no paint bubbling or anything that would suggest rust underneath. I still probably won't worry about it.
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