New frame geometry
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New frame geometry
Hey all,
I am currently riding a 58cm All-City Mr. Pink. However, in hopes of doing a few cross races as well as exploring more terrain, I'm moving to a disc brake cross bike. Possibly a Van Dessel Aloominator. I was curious if anyone could lend some opinion on sizing based on geometry charts I've provided. I should be able to test ride one fairly soon, but I'm still doing all the research and comparing specs/numbers.
Thanks!
I am currently riding a 58cm All-City Mr. Pink. However, in hopes of doing a few cross races as well as exploring more terrain, I'm moving to a disc brake cross bike. Possibly a Van Dessel Aloominator. I was curious if anyone could lend some opinion on sizing based on geometry charts I've provided. I should be able to test ride one fairly soon, but I'm still doing all the research and comparing specs/numbers.
Thanks!
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Your Mr Pink is probably 'snappier' than the Aloominator. Same wheelbase & chainstays within mm, but different angles & rakes pointing the Pinky faster. Can't tell anything on positioning though with lack of info on the Aloominator specs. Don't consider headtube as any refrence to stack with these styles of bikes. (Forks come in MANY styles here)
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Ideally, take it for a ride before buying. Sorry, online buying is a risk on fitting because there's no industry standard on measuring frames. Different brands have different tolerances and reference points on where they actually base their top tube length, or wheelbase, or reach, etc.
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I wouldn't put your Allez's geometry in the mix at all. Very different bike. Maybe if it were a Secteur (endurance), but the Allez is going to be too much of a jump in what kind of bike you're looking for. For sizing solely, only look at the stack, reach, and effective top tube. And consider the CX bike will probably have a slightly shorter reach + higher stack due to the rider position it's intended for.
Ideally, take it for a ride before buying. Sorry, online buying is a risk on fitting because there's no industry standard on measuring frames. Different brands have different tolerances and reference points on where they actually base their top tube length, or wheelbase, or reach, etc.
Ideally, take it for a ride before buying. Sorry, online buying is a risk on fitting because there's no industry standard on measuring frames. Different brands have different tolerances and reference points on where they actually base their top tube length, or wheelbase, or reach, etc.
I agree, test riding is the best option. But it may not be possible for me.
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Grave/road adventure bikes - whether flat bar/drop bar - are built around endurance road bike geometry.
The difference from their road bike sibling is they can accept wider tires and they also have rack/fender mounts.
The difference from their road bike sibling is they can accept wider tires and they also have rack/fender mounts.
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That may be true, however this is a cyclocross bike which is all a "gravel bike" really is.
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A CX bike has a somewhat aggressive geometry. A gravel road/adventure bike is more relaxed.
CX for racing - gravel road/adventure for day-long riding.
Think of them as cousins fit for different aspects of exploring the off-road world.
CX for racing - gravel road/adventure for day-long riding.
Think of them as cousins fit for different aspects of exploring the off-road world.
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Even though the CX and gravel bikes are cousins designed for the same terrain, and the CX is to the gravel what a crit racer is to an endurance roadie, CX geometry is not based on crit racer road geometry unlike gravel taking many hints of enduro geometry.
Rider position is typically the only major difference between CX and gravel geometry (reach, stack, bb drop), but CX almost always has the same 'slack' on the front (angle & rake) (Mr. Pink doesn't to cater to the hipster street use riders usually use for it), the only common differences besides rider position are a slight difference in wheelbase and/or chainstay. This goes with the bb drop for taking sharp turns.
FYI: I studied bike fitting and frame geometry.
Rider position is typically the only major difference between CX and gravel geometry (reach, stack, bb drop), but CX almost always has the same 'slack' on the front (angle & rake) (Mr. Pink doesn't to cater to the hipster street use riders usually use for it), the only common differences besides rider position are a slight difference in wheelbase and/or chainstay. This goes with the bb drop for taking sharp turns.
FYI: I studied bike fitting and frame geometry.
Last edited by IcySmooth52; 07-23-15 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Credentials