fat bike for Clydes?
#1
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fat bike for Clydes?
With all of the special requirements a clyde needs are there clyde compatible fatbike components like wheels, crank, brakes ect ?
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I'm 220 lbs and fairly fit, just a big guy at 6'. I ride my Framed Minnesota 3.0 and it takes my weight easily.
Actually, all my mtb take it but I have had issues w road bike wheels
Actually, all my mtb take it but I have had issues w road bike wheels
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The local bike mechanic I ride with just told me he got a "mid-fat" bike to ride. I'm not sure which model for sure other than it is a Trek and straight off the shelf. I don't know his weight, but he is certainly a clyde.
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#4
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How much to you weigh? I would say most fat bikes are not going to have issues with a sub 300lb guy (LBS fat bikes at least, can't say for a Walmart or Target one).
#5
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I have seen a lot of clydes riding or interested in the box store Mongoose fat bikes, and I have one for fun rides with my kid. They look big and beefy enough for just about anyone, but the 190mm rear hub with its 9.5mm axle is the easily bent weak link. Bend, flip, repeat has become a maintenance item on that bike.
#6
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I have seen a lot of clydes riding or interested in the box store Mongoose fat bikes, and I have one for fun rides with my kid. They look big and beefy enough for just about anyone, but the 190mm rear hub with its 9.5mm axle is the easily bent weak link. Bend, flip, repeat has become a maintenance item on that bike.
#7
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I ride a Framed Wolftrack, I'm 225ish and have no issues with it, I only have about 150 miles on it though. It seems to be pretty tough though.
#8
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I'm 235 lbs +gear and clothes, where you at? And what bike are you looking at? Most mt bikes/fat bikes are pretty beefy.
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Are you wanting a fat bike because you'll be riding in sand or snow or just because you are a clydesdale?
I've ridden tires from 32mm to 60mm at a weight of 400 lbs and never had a single problem. I would say any name brand frameset and components would be fine but you might want to be more picky about wheels. I have mine custom built because of my specific needs. For example, I just got a quote from Velocity for a pair of 40 spoke wheels with DTSwiss competition spokes, Velocity ATB hubs (11-speed compatible) and Blunt 35 rims and the total was about $460 for the set. I know that's as much as some LBS bikes but you really get what you pay for and that's a wheelset you could ride around the world on with no concerns about durability.
My personal bike is a Surly Karate Monkey (a 29'er MTB) with Deore drivetrain & brakes and a custom set of wheels based around touring hubs and Velocity Dyad rims. As long as I don't do something stupid, it's bombproof.
I've ridden tires from 32mm to 60mm at a weight of 400 lbs and never had a single problem. I would say any name brand frameset and components would be fine but you might want to be more picky about wheels. I have mine custom built because of my specific needs. For example, I just got a quote from Velocity for a pair of 40 spoke wheels with DTSwiss competition spokes, Velocity ATB hubs (11-speed compatible) and Blunt 35 rims and the total was about $460 for the set. I know that's as much as some LBS bikes but you really get what you pay for and that's a wheelset you could ride around the world on with no concerns about durability.
My personal bike is a Surly Karate Monkey (a 29'er MTB) with Deore drivetrain & brakes and a custom set of wheels based around touring hubs and Velocity Dyad rims. As long as I don't do something stupid, it's bombproof.
#10
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I would be considered a "super clyde" and fully understand that I need to have the components upgraded to support my weight. I am looking at a Surly ICT.
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I see the appeal of fat bike for deep snow and sand etc, but IMHO other than style they make no sense for riding on streets and their weight and slowness could discourage riding for a lot of people.
I have been up to 285 and have never had a problem with well built 32 spoke rims. I have only broken 2 spokes in 35 plus years and these were on a wheel that was poorly built...my rebuild of the wheel (first time) is still going strong
I have been up to 285 and have never had a problem with well built 32 spoke rims. I have only broken 2 spokes in 35 plus years and these were on a wheel that was poorly built...my rebuild of the wheel (first time) is still going strong
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I raced on a loaned fat bike this Spring. Was a hilly mountain bike race and it was absolutely the most intense workout I have ever had on two wheels. I am just a hair over 200 lbs and was racing in the Clyde class. I beat the snot out of that bike and convinced it would hold up under a much heavier rider.
I was really happy to give that bike back to the owner. The fun factor of that bike wore off for me when the trailed turned upward. Took every ounce of Clyde power in my legs to get that beast up the mountain.
I was really happy to give that bike back to the owner. The fun factor of that bike wore off for me when the trailed turned upward. Took every ounce of Clyde power in my legs to get that beast up the mountain.
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Surly is a good choice as they tend to be stout bikes but the ICT is probably overkill unless you will be riding terrain that requires a fat bike. I would recommend the Surly Ogre and have your LBS swap the tires out for some Big Apples. That's almost exactly what I have (Karate Monkey & Ogre have the same geometry).
The Ogre frame sheet indicates it's rated to carry 355 lbs and safe for up to two foot jumps!
The Ogre frame sheet indicates it's rated to carry 355 lbs and safe for up to two foot jumps!
#14
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I ran a 29er "1/2 fat" back in the day was a fun trial at running without a suspension fork... it tracked well and really didn't mind the minor chatter in the trail... even was pretty nice on smaller roots and such... ran it around or under 15psi (at over 300# rider weight).
I think most clyds would be fine on a standard LBS fat bike... even the wheels are pretty beefy for the factory ones (you can get some light weight ones with big holes drilled out of the rim though)... but I can't see myself buying one personally... unless I got a VERY VERY good deal... if I lived near/on the beach or up in the north I would consider it... but it doesn't fit my ride preference/style
I think most clyds would be fine on a standard LBS fat bike... even the wheels are pretty beefy for the factory ones (you can get some light weight ones with big holes drilled out of the rim though)... but I can't see myself buying one personally... unless I got a VERY VERY good deal... if I lived near/on the beach or up in the north I would consider it... but it doesn't fit my ride preference/style
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Fat bikes are great fun!!! Everyone should own one. I ride mine year round trails, mud, swamp, snow, sand, gravel and pavement. Most are built like tanks and weigh the same, however it's the most fun you can have on two wheels. You can go places on a fat bike that a mountain bike will never go. Get one and enjoy it.
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Fat bikes are great fun!!! Everyone should own one. I ride mine year round trails, mud, swamp, snow, sand, gravel and pavement. Most are built like tanks and weigh the same, however it's the most fun you can have on two wheels. You can go places on a fat bike that a mountain bike will never go. Get one and enjoy it.
#17
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I have to admit, I would love to have a Pugsley with Black Floyd slicks on it. I wouldn't want it as my only bike but I can see it being a blast to ride around the neighborhood. Not to mention the looks it would draw. I don't even think the average bike rider is familiar with Surly or fat bikes, much less non-riders.
#18
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Good info! I am looking to buy a fatty to replace/upgrade my Mtn bike. My concern is that because of my size (~350lbs) the stock components wont hold up so I would like to purchase the bike with upgraded components. I have a Surly DT for road riding but now want to hit the trails.
If the upgraded components cost a few hundred dollars more I would rather get them now saving money over the long term.
If the upgraded components cost a few hundred dollars more I would rather get them now saving money over the long term.
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Just my 2 cents but if you want a road bike feel and mountain bike low gearing for hills and taller gears for the road, with solid wheels made to take some weight and maybe even a bit more relaxed geometry. I would look at a touring bike that’s what I love to ride most as my all around bike. They are designed to haul a rider and a lot of camping supplies, with gearing starting 20GI or lower and going up to around 100GI. The 36 spoke wheels will carry the weight well.
I have a BD bike the Windsor Tourist and I still think you can get one for about 600 USD. I would spend a little more and have a bike shop set it up and go over the spokes. I changed out the saddle and the gearing a little to suit my needs, added fenders and it has been a good heavy duty bike for many years now.
I have a BD bike the Windsor Tourist and I still think you can get one for about 600 USD. I would spend a little more and have a bike shop set it up and go over the spokes. I changed out the saddle and the gearing a little to suit my needs, added fenders and it has been a good heavy duty bike for many years now.
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Fat Bike or Regular Mountain Bike?
We're getting a bike for our son, and he is just over 300 lb, and around 6 ft 5 in. The question is, what is the best kind of bike to get? He needs it for campus riding at college. I don't want to buy junk but I also don't want to spend a mint... does anyone have any specific ideas?
#21
Still learning
Look for a used mountain bike, with no suspension. Low key, less likely to be stolen. $75-$175.
Trek 850, 930, 950, 970.
Specialized Hard Rock, Rockhopper, Stumpjumper
Schwinn High Plains
Miyata Path Runner, Ridge Runner, etc.
Raleigh M40
Gary Fisher, GT, and Gaint as well.
Ideally a chromoly steel frame, trigger shifters as opposed to twist grip. Shimano STX, Deore LX, or Exage drivetrain. Shimano Altus, Alivio, Tourney are low end mountain bikes. Altus brakes are prone to have cracked grey plastic spring retainers, which necessitate buying a new brake assembly.
Trek 850, 930, 950, 970.
Specialized Hard Rock, Rockhopper, Stumpjumper
Schwinn High Plains
Miyata Path Runner, Ridge Runner, etc.
Raleigh M40
Gary Fisher, GT, and Gaint as well.
Ideally a chromoly steel frame, trigger shifters as opposed to twist grip. Shimano STX, Deore LX, or Exage drivetrain. Shimano Altus, Alivio, Tourney are low end mountain bikes. Altus brakes are prone to have cracked grey plastic spring retainers, which necessitate buying a new brake assembly.
#22
just pedal
Look for a used mountain bike, with no suspension. Low key, less likely to be stolen. $75-$175.
Trek 850, 930, 950, 970.
Specialized Hard Rock, Rockhopper, Stumpjumper
Schwinn High Plains
Miyata Path Runner, Ridge Runner, etc.
Raleigh M40
Gary Fisher, GT, and Gaint as well.
Ideally a chromoly steel frame, trigger shifters as opposed to twist grip. Shimano STX, Deore LX, or Exage drivetrain. Shimano Altus, Alivio, Tourney are low end mountain bikes. Altus brakes are prone to have cracked grey plastic spring retainers, which necessitate buying a new brake assembly.
Trek 850, 930, 950, 970.
Specialized Hard Rock, Rockhopper, Stumpjumper
Schwinn High Plains
Miyata Path Runner, Ridge Runner, etc.
Raleigh M40
Gary Fisher, GT, and Gaint as well.
Ideally a chromoly steel frame, trigger shifters as opposed to twist grip. Shimano STX, Deore LX, or Exage drivetrain. Shimano Altus, Alivio, Tourney are low end mountain bikes. Altus brakes are prone to have cracked grey plastic spring retainers, which necessitate buying a new brake assembly.
but ya any of those bikes/types would work well assuming the bike is in decent shape and fits decently.
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We're getting a bike for our son, and he is just over 300 lb, and around 6 ft 5 in. The question is, what is the best kind of bike to get? He needs it for campus riding at college. I don't want to buy junk but I also don't want to spend a mint... does anyone have any specific ideas?
What is your budget? And how secure will the bike be where he uses it?
Sometimes new proves to be not much more than used in the end. Do stay away from department store bikes. They won’t hold up long term.
#24
Still learning
We're getting a bike for our son, and he is just over 300 lb, and around 6 ft 5 in. The question is, what is the best kind of bike to get? He needs it for campus riding at college. I don't want to buy junk but I also don't want to spend a mint... does anyone have any specific ideas?
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/5727773338.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/5713112212.html
Last edited by oddjob2; 08-12-16 at 08:31 AM.