Original Plan for my Drivetrain....worth it?
01-29-08, 10:59 AM
#26
Beausage is Beautiful
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Agreed. It's not that hard to get a good chainline, and worth a little time to get it right.
01-29-08, 11:34 AM
#29
aka mattio
ooh! i too hate the US government! but last night's State of the Union was made much more bearable when we put a fake moustache on the TV screen, and drank every time it lined up with somebody's face. it was damn hilarious.
01-29-08, 11:39 AM
#30
some dude
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I had a Specialties TA chainring that was not round, creating a tight spot in the chain during crank rotation.
I tried adjusting but there was always a tight spot.
Switched a DA chainring and the problem was solved. The DA ring is smooth and quiet.
I've never had a problem with Sugino 75 chainrings either...
Just stay away from the Specialties TA.
I tried adjusting but there was always a tight spot.
Switched a DA chainring and the problem was solved. The DA ring is smooth and quiet.
I've never had a problem with Sugino 75 chainrings either...
Just stay away from the Specialties TA.
01-29-08, 11:45 AM
#31
aka mattio
yeah, i'd say that a good chainring is the best place to spend drivetrain money.
i have a TA Piste chainring that is very round. 130bcd for my stronglight cranks.
i have a TA Piste chainring that is very round. 130bcd for my stronglight cranks.
01-29-08, 01:10 PM
#32
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speaking of chainrings, does anyone have any experience with these?
https://cgi.ebay.com/FSA-Pro-Road-Cha...QQcmdZViewItem
https://cgi.ebay.com/FSA-Pro-Road-Cha...QQcmdZViewItem
01-29-08, 02:35 PM
#34
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01-29-08, 02:53 PM
#35
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the only gripe i have with my fsa products (carbon pro cranks, pro track 49t) is their branding is horrendous and everywhere. otherwise they're great.
01-29-08, 02:57 PM
#36
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Salsa's single-speed rings are also made from 7075/T6, so you'd get pretty good wear from those as well.
01-29-08, 03:22 PM
#37
Track Tricyclist
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That's totally wrong.
Theyre expensive in the USA because of the huge markup by the retailers in the states. In Japan, If you want good parts, buying NJS parts is about the cheapest way you can go in building your bike. I built my bike out of almost all NJS parts because it would save me money. Of course, i liked and trusted the parts too.
Theyre expensive in the USA because of the huge markup by the retailers in the states. In Japan, If you want good parts, buying NJS parts is about the cheapest way you can go in building your bike. I built my bike out of almost all NJS parts because it would save me money. Of course, i liked and trusted the parts too.
i had no idea.
what are some examples of expensive or over-hyped parts that aren't njs over there?
01-29-08, 08:04 PM
#39
Perineal Pressurized
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it's a worthwhile $50. look here
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
01-29-08, 08:57 PM
#41
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it's a worthwhile $50. look here
01-29-08, 10:41 PM
#42
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Most trackhubs place the cog in a plane located parallel to the centerline of the bike, 42.5 millimeters away. there is some slight variation - Sheldon Brown has a database of measurements. Add the center-to-shoulder measurement of the hub in question to the chainline-from-shoulder measurement of the cog in question. Or, you can take the reasonable shorthand of assuming it's 42.5mm.
You want your chainring to also be 42.5mm away from the centerline of the bike. That will mean your chain runs straight.
So, use a ruler to measure how far your chainring is from the center of your seattube. See? it's easy. If it's more than a few millimeters off, you might want to look into corrective measures - getting a bb with a longer or shorter spindle.
To deal with this chainline issue, track cranksets have a "matching bb" that place them at the right spot for a good chainline.
You want your chainring to also be 42.5mm away from the centerline of the bike. That will mean your chain runs straight.
So, use a ruler to measure how far your chainring is from the center of your seattube. See? it's easy. If it's more than a few millimeters off, you might want to look into corrective measures - getting a bb with a longer or shorter spindle.
To deal with this chainline issue, track cranksets have a "matching bb" that place them at the right spot for a good chainline.
Sheldon "Pixels" Brown
01-30-08, 07:11 AM
#46
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