Question about the quality of Suspension Forks which come on certain Hybrids
#26
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I recently bought a 2018 Specialized Crosstrail Sport with the "brain" technology suspension fork. I've been riding a Trek 7.2FX for years but have a neck problem that's been progressing and I found the Trek to be too stiff of a ride for me any more - so was getting less and less riding time in. The Crosstrail with the wider tires and suspension fork made my rides enjoyable again - a VERY noticeable difference in the comfort level for me. It doesn't feel any heavier or slower at all from the 7.2FX. I considered trying wider tires to try and get the Trek to work for me but in the end I'm extremely happy with my decision. I think a fork with suspension or without is a personal fit and comfort issue and everyone is different in how they perceive one or the other. There's no right or wrong - just whatever gets you out there riding more is what matters IMHO
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As I never tried any of the hybrids with suspension, I can't comment, but as I suspect I would probably ride with the suspension locked out, the only reason to get one would have been if a bike like the Toughroad didn't exist.
If you can find a hybrid with air suspension front fork, then perhaps that would make things quite different.
I'm not saying that a Roam or DS or Crosstrail would be poor bikes, I just don't see the advantage they offer over a Toughroad and because of the suspension, come with a 3lb weight penalty that serves little purpose.
#28
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I just weighed both of my bikes - the 2018 Specialized Crosstrail Sport - medium frame - with the brain fork came in at 30.8lbs with the spare tube and flat repair kit installed under the seat. My Trek 7.2FX came in at 30lbs (it does have added bar ends that I put on to help alleviate hand numbness). They'd be pretty much dead even if I removed the Crosstrail extras that I moved over from the 7.2FX(tail light, bottle holder, under seat kit).
I had the impression during my maiden voyage Sunday on the Crosstrail that there was no difference in the weight between the 2 bikes and it looks like that was correct.
I had the impression during my maiden voyage Sunday on the Crosstrail that there was no difference in the weight between the 2 bikes and it looks like that was correct.
#29
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My 2017 Crosstrail has the suspension fork. I love it. Simple as that. Whatever added weight it has is worth it.
I lock it out sometimes when I need a little more efficiency on a hill climb, but for the most part I let the suspension do its thing. As long as I'm not leaning forward as I pedal I'm not pushing into the suspension anyway.
The ride quality difference is noticeable. I don't notice every bump and divot in the road. It's a much smoother more comfortable ride. Same goes for hardpack rail trails. I LOVE the suspension as it just make the ride easier on my hands.
If I lose any efficiency due to weight or compression of the springs, I'm good with that. I make up for it in a more comfortable ride.
I wouldn't want to race with one on blacktob, but for a comfort ride, I'm happy I went with the suspension fork.
I lock it out sometimes when I need a little more efficiency on a hill climb, but for the most part I let the suspension do its thing. As long as I'm not leaning forward as I pedal I'm not pushing into the suspension anyway.
The ride quality difference is noticeable. I don't notice every bump and divot in the road. It's a much smoother more comfortable ride. Same goes for hardpack rail trails. I LOVE the suspension as it just make the ride easier on my hands.
If I lose any efficiency due to weight or compression of the springs, I'm good with that. I make up for it in a more comfortable ride.
I wouldn't want to race with one on blacktob, but for a comfort ride, I'm happy I went with the suspension fork.
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I think comfort bikes are their market, it just makes me wonder why they didn't put one on the rear as well? High end rear shocks cost a fortune but I have seen cheap spring versions on $150 Kmart MTBs so it's doable and would give an added comfort factor hey.
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But it does exist. Last time I was in the Netherlands I did notice several Townies with short-travel rear suspensions.
#32
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I just weighed both of my bikes - the 2018 Specialized Crosstrail Sport - medium frame - with the brain fork came in at 30.8lbs with the spare tube and flat repair kit installed under the seat. My Trek 7.2FX came in at 30lbs (it does have added bar ends that I put on to help alleviate hand numbness). They'd be pretty much dead even if I removed the Crosstrail extras that I moved over from the 7.2FX(tail light, bottle holder, under seat kit).
I had the impression during my maiden voyage Sunday on the Crosstrail that there was no difference in the weight between the 2 bikes and it looks like that was correct.
I had the impression during my maiden voyage Sunday on the Crosstrail that there was no difference in the weight between the 2 bikes and it looks like that was correct.
My Toughroad SLR 2 in Large, weighed 26lbs even.
The Trek 7.2 FX used the heavier "Silver" Aluminium, rather than the "Gold" Aluminium on higher up model FX's.
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But you cannot avoid losing pedal power to a rear suspension. It's physically impossible. All your weight is right over any rear suspension component. You can't shift your weight off of it.
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They don't do anything for your hands and arms either. That's where the repeated impacts from curbs, sticks, rocks, holes, small children, etc start to make the ride uncomfortable after a while.
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Bike fashion seems to be rather geographically-dependent. I watch a number of bike touring channels on YouTube. Most of the bike tourists I see in Europe are riding front suspension forks with a MTB-style bar with bar ends. They're often riding what we call "hybrids" in the United States (something like a Trek DS or similar).
Contrast this with the touring bike marketed in North America, or at least the United States, which usually consists of a rigid frame bike with drop bars. Trek 920, Surly LHT, etc. I still see a lot of people touring in the US on suspension and/or flat bars, but the rigid bike with drops seems to be most popular here relative to other markets.
A holdover from the 1980s road bike craze in this country? Perhaps.
I like what another poster said. The type of bike that gets you out on two wheels is the best one for you.
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Who needs maximum available traction and handling during comfort riding?
How big of a drop or bump do you expect to deal with during comfort riding?
1-3"?
How much travel do you think you need to take the edge of those drops?
which sus seatposts have you ridden?
Was it set for your weight?
Telescope or parallellogram?
How much travel?
I've ridden extensively on a Thudbuster ST.
Even if I try, I don't notice the crank-to-saddle variations for those fractions of a second when its working through its range of motion.
Or the saddle-to-bar changes either for that matter.
Those experiences are entirely masked by the bike going over the bump in general.
It does a great job of smoothing out short, sharp impacts - like the ones I consider within expectations of "comfort riding".
For the parallellogram variety of sus post, the move down is pretty well offset by the move back. Crank-to-saddle doesn't change much.
Something like a Thudbuster LT - particularly if set up soft - is a bit different.
There it's reasonable to talk about geometry changes.
Or perhaps on a purely telescoping post set up soft.
#38
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Yes I did. But there's nothing comfortable about the geometry constantly changing while you ride your bike.
Does your car seat constantly move up and down or back and forth while you're driving. No...the suspension at the wheels takes care of the comfort.
Who needs a suspension seat post during comfort riding?
Stand up. Use your legs. Learn to hover over the saddle in those situations.
If you're looking for a smoother ride, you can lower your tire pressures. Again...your only suspending your ass while at the same time changing the reach geometry when the seat is in motion.
Does your car seat constantly move up and down or back and forth while you're driving. No...the suspension at the wheels takes care of the comfort.
Who needs maximum available traction and handling during comfort riding?
How big of a drop or bump do you expect to deal with during comfort riding?
1-3"?
How much travel do you think you need to take the edge of those drops?
1-3"?
How much travel do you think you need to take the edge of those drops?
which sus seatposts have you ridden?
Was it set for your weight?
Telescope or parallellogram?
How much travel?
I've ridden extensively on a Thudbuster ST.
Even if I try, I don't notice the crank-to-saddle variations for those fractions of a second when its working through its range of motion.
Or the saddle-to-bar changes either for that matter.
Those experiences are entirely masked by the bike going over the bump in general.
It does a great job of smoothing out short, sharp impacts - like the ones I consider within expectations of "comfort riding".
For the parallellogram variety of sus post, the move down is pretty well offset by the move back. Crank-to-saddle doesn't change much.
Something like a Thudbuster LT - particularly if set up soft - is a bit different.
There it's reasonable to talk about geometry changes.
Or perhaps on a purely telescoping post set up soft.
Was it set for your weight?
Telescope or parallellogram?
How much travel?
I've ridden extensively on a Thudbuster ST.
Even if I try, I don't notice the crank-to-saddle variations for those fractions of a second when its working through its range of motion.
Or the saddle-to-bar changes either for that matter.
Those experiences are entirely masked by the bike going over the bump in general.
It does a great job of smoothing out short, sharp impacts - like the ones I consider within expectations of "comfort riding".
For the parallellogram variety of sus post, the move down is pretty well offset by the move back. Crank-to-saddle doesn't change much.
Something like a Thudbuster LT - particularly if set up soft - is a bit different.
There it's reasonable to talk about geometry changes.
Or perhaps on a purely telescoping post set up soft.
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Does Suntour NEX lockout
Do the Suntour NEX forks lockout?
I have a Suntour NEX fork on my hybrid (63mm travel I think) and mine definitely moves. The difference between this hybrid and my rigid hybrid is made apparent in the first few seconds of a ride. I ride both bikes, and enjoy both of them, but for different reasons. I tend to keep my rigid bike to the streets and paved paths, and I tend to use my suspended hybrid on the gravel and off-road.
#40
Junior Member
#41
Senior Member
As far I know, the current NEX versions are either without lockout or with hydraulic lockout. Older versions can have mechanical lockout (which I personally would not recommend).
Most of the time you can tell if the fork locks out visually - a lockout lever is the knob on the top of the right side of the fork, blue in Suntour's case. If there's a cable attached to it, it's a remote lockout.
Might pay attention also to the full model name of the fork, if it is stated in the specs - if there's HLO in the model name, it means hydraulic lockout, MLO = mechanic lockout. RL= remote lockout (should be a hydraulic one, but as can be read in this very thread earlier, remotely operated mechanical lockouts apparently are also a thing, even if it makes no sense).
Most of the time you can tell if the fork locks out visually - a lockout lever is the knob on the top of the right side of the fork, blue in Suntour's case. If there's a cable attached to it, it's a remote lockout.
Might pay attention also to the full model name of the fork, if it is stated in the specs - if there's HLO in the model name, it means hydraulic lockout, MLO = mechanic lockout. RL= remote lockout (should be a hydraulic one, but as can be read in this very thread earlier, remotely operated mechanical lockouts apparently are also a thing, even if it makes no sense).
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Thank, I knew next to nothing before!
Ill be able to buy my bike with a much more informed choice now.
Retailers don’t always list full specs or model numbers of parts (HLO etc.), so that is good info to look for.
The bike I’m looking at does in fact have the blue knob.
Ill be able to buy my bike with a much more informed choice now.
Retailers don’t always list full specs or model numbers of parts (HLO etc.), so that is good info to look for.
The bike I’m looking at does in fact have the blue knob.
As far I know, the current NEX versions are either without lockout or with hydraulic lockout. Older versions can have mechanical lockout (which I personally would not recommend).
Most of the time you can tell if the fork locks out visually - a lockout lever is the knob on the top of the right side of the fork, blue in Suntour's case. If there's a cable attached to it, it's a remote lockout.
Might pay attention also to the full model name of the fork, if it is stated in the specs - if there's HLO in the model name, it means hydraulic lockout, MLO = mechanic lockout. RL= remote lockout (should be a hydraulic one, but as can be read in this very thread earlier, remotely operated mechanical lockouts apparently are also a thing, even if it makes no sense).
Most of the time you can tell if the fork locks out visually - a lockout lever is the knob on the top of the right side of the fork, blue in Suntour's case. If there's a cable attached to it, it's a remote lockout.
Might pay attention also to the full model name of the fork, if it is stated in the specs - if there's HLO in the model name, it means hydraulic lockout, MLO = mechanic lockout. RL= remote lockout (should be a hydraulic one, but as can be read in this very thread earlier, remotely operated mechanical lockouts apparently are also a thing, even if it makes no sense).