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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Best Aluminum Road Wheels?

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Old 07-27-23, 07:19 PM
  #51  
PeteHski
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Originally Posted by chaadster
I would be surprised if was Poertner’s viewpoint that weight doesn’t matter until +6% inclines. Perhaps you can link the interview so we can get it from the horses mouth? I suspect there’s a lot more context there which needs understood.
For sure he would have been referring to wheel weight vs aero. For amateur riders 6% is usually around the point where lightweight wheels begin to offer a marginal advantage over deeper section aero wheels. For pro riders it can be as high as 10% inclines due to their higher power/speed.
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Old 07-27-23, 07:36 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Well now…weight has no direct effect on time, but weight does have a direct effect on speed up a climb. It seems to me it makes more sense to talk about weight and speed; 10kg sitting on the road is 10kg sitting on the road regardless of how long you look it. It’s only once the speed component— i.e. time over distance— that 10kg translates into anything.
I obviously meant time over a fixed distance. For example like in the SwissSide comparison of lightweight vs aero wheels. They looked at time deltas over a fixed climb.

Since we are being pedantic, speed = distance over time, not the inverse you stated above. Time over distance is actually exactly how I would frame the effects of weight on a climb.
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Old 07-27-23, 10:08 PM
  #53  
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Top for me would be a velocity aileron which is a 28mm deep, 19mm internal width rim so it pairs nicely with a 25c tire, alloy nipples, pillar wing21 spokes with a chris king r45 disc hub, 28h rear, could go 24h front. You don't specify disc vs rim but I'd assume a new build to be disc. The wing21 spokes are 2.2 at the hub so an all day go anywhere wheel but with a lighter weight aero profile so good for speed, and kings are light and fast, and on steep downhills will coast as fast as you want to go. Not a prebuilt but as lock solid as any and should be fairly light.
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Old 08-03-23, 12:46 AM
  #54  
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Best? Does anyone actually think there's a "best"? Lots of good though
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Old 08-04-23, 02:27 PM
  #55  
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I would say Campy Zonda. For about 400 Euro in rim brake wheels, you can't go wrong
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Old 08-04-23, 03:59 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Yes it does because it means something totally different from what you wrote earlier. And if you think it's pedantic to say no the Sun doesn't rise in the West, it rises in the East, so be it.

I have to be pedantic and point that the sun doesn't actually rise anywhere, rather it remains fixed and we rotate around it.
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Old 08-05-23, 10:35 AM
  #57  
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All of the aero vs. weight analysis completely misses the 'elephant in the room': that during real performance riding (money is at stake), you are drafting 90+% of the time. Sure, if you are on a flat road breaking the wind, then aero matters, as you are struggling with minute-long 500+ W pulls. But most of time you are comfortably sheltered in the back coasting along at 100 W or less. So aero anything doesn't matter.

But the few seconds per hour that really really matter are during short punchy climbs and accelerations out of corners. You are completely maxed out and hanging on for dear life, and you have to bridge the 10 foot gap within the next 2 seconds, or you are riding solo into the wind for the next hour.

This is where wheel rotating inertia is critical, and the lightest possible wheel for the win: low-profile carbon tubulars of course. No discs - obviously.
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Old 08-05-23, 10:43 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
All of the aero vs. weight analysis completely misses the 'elephant in the room': that during real performance riding (money is at stake), you are drafting 90+% of the time. Sure, if you are on a flat road breaking the wind, then aero matters, as you are struggling with minute-long 500+ W pulls. But most of time you are comfortably sheltered in the back coasting along at 100 W or less. So aero anything doesn't matter.

But the few seconds per hour that really really matter are during short punchy climbs and accelerations out of corners. You are completely maxed out and hanging on for dear life, and you have to bridge the 10 foot gap within the next 2 seconds, or you are riding solo into the wind for the next hour.

This is where wheel rotating inertia is critical, and the lightest possible wheel for the win: low-profile carbon tubulars of course. No discs - obviously.
This is just not true at all. Just for anyone who might believe this rubbish.
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Old 08-05-23, 11:23 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
This is just not true at all. Just for anyone who might believe this rubbish.
Yep, pure nonsense.
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Old 08-05-23, 04:14 PM
  #60  
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Don't let the bike industry marketers and sales drones adversely steer your decision here. They are always attempting to facilitate customer bike inventory turnover, and press expensive purchasing decisions. I service many bikes every week, and you also do not want to buy something that irrecoverably binds you to your shop for formerly simple do-it-yourself maintenance items. As does hydraulic disc brakes and internal cable routing, and the new chaos of proprietary parts and 'standards'.
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Old 08-05-23, 04:15 PM
  #61  
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And BTW: Zonda's are great wheels, as are Fulcrum 3s and above.
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Old 08-06-23, 06:36 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Don't let the bike industry marketers and sales drones adversely steer your decision here.
…..or old biking mythology and cynical “Big Bike” conspiracy theory.
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Old 08-07-23, 03:42 PM
  #63  
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It's a shtick, right?
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Old 08-12-23, 04:49 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
All of the aero vs. weight analysis completely misses the 'elephant in the room': that during real performance riding (money is at stake), you are drafting 90+% of the time. Sure, if you are on a flat road breaking the wind, then aero matters, as you are struggling with minute-long 500+ W pulls. But most of time you are comfortably sheltered in the back coasting along at 100 W or less. So aero anything doesn't matter.

But the few seconds per hour that really really matter are during short punchy climbs and accelerations out of corners. You are completely maxed out and hanging on for dear life, and you have to bridge the 10 foot gap within the next 2 seconds, or you are riding solo into the wind for the next hour.

This is where wheel rotating inertia is critical, and the lightest possible wheel for the win: low-profile carbon tubulars of course. No discs - obviously.
This seems to make sense; nobody's said why it doesn't.

Although if you want the fastest-possible accelerating wheel, I'd say it would be disc - a few more spokes on the front and a bit more weight on the hubs and frameset, but the rim could be lighter, which should matter more.

Mind you, my 49mm rim brake rims are 330g... How light do you need to go?
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Old 08-12-23, 04:54 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
This seems to make sense; nobody's said why it doesn't.
Because drafting or not at reasonable speeds you're fighting aero drag so anything that reduces you're effort, even in a pack, will result in less fatigue later.

The fastest accelerating wheel will either be the one with lowest drag or lightest weight (regardless of how that weight is distributed) depending on rider power and road grade. The same as for riding at constant speed since bicycle accelerations are so low.
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Old 08-12-23, 05:33 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Because drafting or not at reasonable speeds you're fighting aero drag so anything that reduces you're effort, even in a pack, will result in less fatigue later.

The fastest accelerating wheel will either be the one with lowest drag or lightest weight (regardless of how that weight is distributed) depending on rider power and road grade. The same as for riding at constant speed since bicycle accelerations are so low.
Um, in a pack, aero drag is relatively negligible, and the air is quite dirty (turbulent) around the height of the wheels, so that's highly debatable.

As for aero drag having a significant effect on acceleration, that's an interesting question, but it would only apply at higher speeds...

And the distribution of mass in a wheel has no effect on acceleration?! Lol. You must be smoking better stuff than me...

Last edited by Kimmo; 08-12-23 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 08-12-23, 05:39 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
And the distribution of mass in a wheel has no effect on acceleration?! Lol. You must be smoking better stuff than me...
Nope, just looking at the data (you might try it).
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Old 08-12-23, 05:48 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Nope, just looking at the data (you might try it).
[citation required]

Polar moment of inertia, anyone? This is kindergarten stuff. How in F did that comment get a like?
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Old 08-12-23, 05:56 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
[citation required]
Let's go back to 2001 shall we? https://capovelo.com/ounce-off-wheel...eight-crucial/
Originally Posted by Kimmo
Polar moment of inertia, anyone? This is kindergarten stuff. How in F did that comment get a like?
Because some people progressed beyond kindergarten?
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Old 08-12-23, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Because drafting or not at reasonable speeds you're fighting aero drag so anything that reduces you're effort, even in a pack, will result in less fatigue later.
Come to think of it, aero aside, if the pack's speed only varies slowly, it might consume some effort to maintain a more consistent speed on really light wheels, and of course it does take more effort to maintain a given speed on a faster-accelerating bike. Lots of variables.
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Old 08-12-23, 08:22 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
[citation required]

Polar moment of inertia, anyone? This is kindergarten stuff. How in F did that comment get a like?
The thing is that the wheel mass is relatively low and bike acceleration is also a small value, even when sprinting. So when you do the calculations the power requirement to spin up the wheels is not very significant compared to the total mass of the bike and rider. It’s very trivial when comparing wheel sets that differ by only a few hundred grams.

Swiss Side ran some calculations on various course profiles.

https://www.swissside.com/blogs/news/aero-vs-weight

Wheel rotational inertia is trivial. You can spin these things up with your little finger on a stand.

Last edited by PeteHski; 08-12-23 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 08-12-23, 11:26 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
The thing is that the wheel mass is relatively low and bike acceleration is also a small value, even when sprinting. So when you do the calculations the power requirement to spin up the wheels is not very significant compared to the total mass of the bike and rider. It’s very trivial when comparing wheel sets that differ by only a few hundred grams.

Swiss Side ran some calculations on various course profiles.

https://www.swissside.com/blogs/news/aero-vs-weight

Wheel rotational inertia is trivial. You can spin these things up with your little finger on a stand.
In other words, the old "rotating weight is more important than frame weight" is true in theory, but is actually trivial in practice given the actual weight differences in rims and the actual accelerations on the ride. I think I remember reading this - maybe on this forum - a while ago. Seems to make sense to me.
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Old 08-13-23, 12:19 AM
  #73  
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Let me stir things up. For optimal aero the rim's external width should be slightly wider than the tire's actual width. A 23c tire is about 25mm wide on a moderately wide rim. I am not sure what aluminum wheel is wide enough (the closest I have seen is an Orinii rim at 25mm width 30mm depth and the 3T Accelero pro at 23mm width and 37mm depth).
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Old 08-13-23, 07:19 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Camilo
In other words, the old "rotating weight is more important than frame weight" is true in theory, but is actually trivial in practice given the actual weight differences in rims and the actual accelerations on the ride. I think I remember reading this - maybe on this forum - a while ago. Seems to make sense to me.
Funny to think how much of the feeling of light wheels must be placebo then...
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Old 08-13-23, 07:23 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by StargazeCyclist
Let me stir things up. For optimal aero the rim's external width should be slightly wider than the tire's actual width. A 23c tire is about 25mm wide on a moderately wide rim. I am not sure what aluminum wheel is wide enough (the closest I have seen is an Orinii rim at 25mm width 30mm depth and the 3T Accelero pro at 23mm width and 37mm depth).
Is there any such thing as a modern deep profile in an aluminium tubular? Otherwise you'd be getting pretty heavy, but OTOH, apparently that only matters to your monkey brain...
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