Drilling extraction hole in shifter to remove broken cable head stuck inside
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Awesome solution! Quick and much easier than expected
Thanks so much for this. I used it to rescue my 7800 shifter. I was nervous about drilling into it but it worked perfectly. And if I get too lazy to replace the cable annually, as so many are recommending, my trusty orifice stands ready.
A couple of more points: First, in my case, before drilling the hole, I could only click three shifts in either direction. So I wasn't completely sure the decapitated cable head would be under the drill point. I guess it was sort of a gamble, but looking inside from the other side I saw only cable track, no anchor point. So it seemed reasonable to try it.
Also, I started by making a small indentation with a carbide-tipped awl at the target point so the bit wouldn't wander. I first drilled a 1/16" hole and then a 1/8" before moving to 1/4", using cobalt bits. The 1/4" cobalt bit had a rather sharp conical tip that hit the cable head and kept me from drilling all the way through. So I had to switch to a 1/4" bit that didn't have as sharp a tip. It worked fine.
I do wonder, how did you know exactly where to drill?
A couple of more points: First, in my case, before drilling the hole, I could only click three shifts in either direction. So I wasn't completely sure the decapitated cable head would be under the drill point. I guess it was sort of a gamble, but looking inside from the other side I saw only cable track, no anchor point. So it seemed reasonable to try it.
Also, I started by making a small indentation with a carbide-tipped awl at the target point so the bit wouldn't wander. I first drilled a 1/16" hole and then a 1/8" before moving to 1/4", using cobalt bits. The 1/4" cobalt bit had a rather sharp conical tip that hit the cable head and kept me from drilling all the way through. So I had to switch to a 1/4" bit that didn't have as sharp a tip. It worked fine.
I do wonder, how did you know exactly where to drill?
#103
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Drill hole shimano shifter
It worked! Genius!!!!
I just saved ultegra 10sp
LBS had no idea and gave it last rites
My teenage son (the client) is gobsmacked.
Initially drilled hole wrong side (read upside down image wrong) now have two holes
Clickety click!!!
I just saved ultegra 10sp
LBS had no idea and gave it last rites
My teenage son (the client) is gobsmacked.
Initially drilled hole wrong side (read upside down image wrong) now have two holes
Clickety click!!!
#104
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Fixed! Thank you so much!! :-)
Thanks so much for this. I used it to rescue my 7800 shifter. I was nervous about drilling into it but it worked perfectly. And if I get too lazy to replace the cable annually, as so many are recommending, my trusty orifice stands ready.
A couple of more points: First, in my case, before drilling the hole, I could only click three shifts in either direction. So I wasn't completely sure the decapitated cable head would be under the drill point. I guess it was sort of a gamble, but looking inside from the other side I saw only cable track, no anchor point. So it seemed reasonable to try it.
Also, I started by making a small indentation with a carbide-tipped awl at the target point so the bit wouldn't wander. I first drilled a 1/16" hole and then a 1/8" before moving to 1/4", using cobalt bits. The 1/4" cobalt bit had a rather sharp conical tip that hit the cable head and kept me from drilling all the way through. So I had to switch to a 1/4" bit that didn't have as sharp a tip. It worked fine.
I do wonder, how did you know exactly where to drill?
A couple of more points: First, in my case, before drilling the hole, I could only click three shifts in either direction. So I wasn't completely sure the decapitated cable head would be under the drill point. I guess it was sort of a gamble, but looking inside from the other side I saw only cable track, no anchor point. So it seemed reasonable to try it.
Also, I started by making a small indentation with a carbide-tipped awl at the target point so the bit wouldn't wander. I first drilled a 1/16" hole and then a 1/8" before moving to 1/4", using cobalt bits. The 1/4" cobalt bit had a rather sharp conical tip that hit the cable head and kept me from drilling all the way through. So I had to switch to a 1/4" bit that didn't have as sharp a tip. It worked fine.
I do wonder, how did you know exactly where to drill?
I made a comment about replacing that cable annually and my friend said, no need, we have the access port now - lol.
Also wonder, how did you know exactly where to drill?
Cheers!
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Thanks
So glad I came across this post. Thanks for posting the description and very helpful photos.
Worked perfectly for my 6600 Ultegra shifter.
I found a magnet to be helpful in extracting the broken wire head.
Worked perfectly for my 6600 Ultegra shifter.
I found a magnet to be helpful in extracting the broken wire head.
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Another success story
Thanks to this post I have replaced the cable on my Ultegra ST-6600 shifter, my drill holes aren't neat (first one wasn't quite right) but job is done!
Bike is about 10 years old and has gone 1000's of kilometers first cable that has broken... Probably should replace the front shifter and brakes cables to
Bike is about 10 years old and has gone 1000's of kilometers first cable that has broken... Probably should replace the front shifter and brakes cables to
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Shimano STI shifters tend to eat cables quicker than SRAM and Campagnolo shifters. The later versions with the cables running under the handlebar tape seem to be the worst, but at least Shimano makes the shifter body more accessible to remove broken off cable ends. I made a couple of videos demonstrating how to do it.
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First post just to say thank you to the OP.
This thread still paying dividends for desperate people. My mate´s 6600 cable snapped and left his shifter as a worthless piece of junk. I tried all the non-invasive methods first, but eventually turned to the drill method. A few minutes of twiddling with a piece of copper core from satellite cable and a fine screwdriver did the trick. All now 100%.
Many thanks again.
This thread still paying dividends for desperate people. My mate´s 6600 cable snapped and left his shifter as a worthless piece of junk. I tried all the non-invasive methods first, but eventually turned to the drill method. A few minutes of twiddling with a piece of copper core from satellite cable and a fine screwdriver did the trick. All now 100%.
Many thanks again.
Likes For briangw:
#109
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First post just to say thank you to the OP.
This thread still paying dividends for desperate people. My mate´s 6600 cable snapped and left his shifter as a worthless piece of junk. I tried all the non-invasive methods first, but eventually turned to the drill method. A few minutes of twiddling with a piece of copper core from satellite cable and a fine screwdriver did the trick. All now 100%.
Many thanks again.
This thread still paying dividends for desperate people. My mate´s 6600 cable snapped and left his shifter as a worthless piece of junk. I tried all the non-invasive methods first, but eventually turned to the drill method. A few minutes of twiddling with a piece of copper core from satellite cable and a fine screwdriver did the trick. All now 100%.
Many thanks again.
you are very welcome, glad my fix was useful and effective!
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Good to know about this option, though my (now 20-years-old) Ultegra 9-speed shifters are working fine on their original cables.
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You've NEVER changed the cables/housing?!?
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Don't drill till you've tried this.
Was going to follow this and drill a hole but figured a much easier way.
1. WD40 the shifter internals - just to make sure everything will move OK.
2. Get a metalwork/welding scriber tool and use it to apply force on the cable barrel in the same direction you feed the cable.
Basically you are putting on pressure the same is if it were under derailleur load.
3. You'll now be able to click the smaller shifter and it will ratchet back one gear.
4. Apply force again on the cable barrel and shift gear again.
Do as many times as is necessary to get to the hardest gear, ie the position you need to be in to remove/install cables.
5. Remove broken cable with long nose pliers.
1. WD40 the shifter internals - just to make sure everything will move OK.
2. Get a metalwork/welding scriber tool and use it to apply force on the cable barrel in the same direction you feed the cable.
Basically you are putting on pressure the same is if it were under derailleur load.
3. You'll now be able to click the smaller shifter and it will ratchet back one gear.
4. Apply force again on the cable barrel and shift gear again.
Do as many times as is necessary to get to the hardest gear, ie the position you need to be in to remove/install cables.
5. Remove broken cable with long nose pliers.
Last edited by wwgga; 07-15-23 at 09:49 PM. Reason: added a step