What Rack?
#26
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The front rods are on a pivot, that red rod holder can move 360 degrees and tightened down resulting in the rod can go almost anywhere you want minus any interference, you can also cut the rods down if needed. The two holders also can put put closer or further apart to work with a variety of frame widths. Example with one rod pointing almost straight down.
#27
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I think this will work fine. I have 4 of the streamline racks on four bikes..very nice. Also have one attached by the ground-out seat post collar..works great.
The rack can be had from Bikesmiths cycle shop in Milwaukee..local shop for me..good supplier.used them many times, and their prices are often the best you'll find. They have an ebay store or their direct-website.
The rack can be had from Bikesmiths cycle shop in Milwaukee..local shop for me..good supplier.used them many times, and their prices are often the best you'll find. They have an ebay store or their direct-website.
I have ordered from Bikesmiths before. They are good!
#28
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I initially thought about getting some cheap bags since I would rarely use them, but am starting to think differently. I am looking at this size Ortlieb. It would make a nice minimalist bag on the rear of the MTB and can be used as a front bag on the touring bike. I have read enough about Ortlieb to know that it's money well spent.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/ortlieb...pair/1097921/p
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/ortlieb...pair/1097921/p
#29
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I initially thought about getting some cheap bags since I would rarely use them, but am starting to think differently. I am looking at this size Ortlieb. It would make a nice minimalist bag on the rear of the MTB and can be used as a front bag on the touring bike. I have read enough about Ortlieb to know that it's money well spent.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/ortlieb...pair/1097921/p
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/ortlieb...pair/1097921/p
This sport packer makes a good rear pannier, its volume can be a bit more than the other front models, but it does weigh a bit more, so I would recommend looking at this page, where you can compare weights etc. I regularly use my front roller plus panniers on the rear of my faster bike, as its nice to have a smaller lighter pannier on when I dont need the larger ones, and they dont stick out as much.
https://www.ortlieb.com/us/products/...front-panniers
the city version is the most economical, and rather light, and the newish "gravel pack" one is the lightest.
#30
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as I have mentioned often here, my 1993 Ortliebs are still alive and kicking and being used, so yes, they are well made and in the long run, worth the money.
This sport packer makes a good rear pannier, its volume can be a bit more than the other front models, but it does weigh a bit more, so I would recommend looking at this page, where you can compare weights etc. I regularly use my front roller plus panniers on the rear of my faster bike, as its nice to have a smaller lighter pannier on when I dont need the larger ones, and they dont stick out as much.
https://www.ortlieb.com/us/products/...front-panniers
the city version is the most economical, and rather light, and the newish "gravel pack" one is the lightest.
This sport packer makes a good rear pannier, its volume can be a bit more than the other front models, but it does weigh a bit more, so I would recommend looking at this page, where you can compare weights etc. I regularly use my front roller plus panniers on the rear of my faster bike, as its nice to have a smaller lighter pannier on when I dont need the larger ones, and they dont stick out as much.
https://www.ortlieb.com/us/products/...front-panniers
the city version is the most economical, and rather light, and the newish "gravel pack" one is the lightest.
With your help I am headed in the right direction. I know the Streamliner 29er Deluxe solves the rack problem.
#31
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no problem, my pleasure.
Ya, without having a bag actually in hand, even with numbers, its not easy to assess how your stuff takes up space.
I have always been rather lucky since I got into bike touring in that there have always been stores with a good selection of things right there in front of you, which helped a lot.
and yes, a sleeping bag and camp mat can easily take up a fair amount of room on their own.
Ya, without having a bag actually in hand, even with numbers, its not easy to assess how your stuff takes up space.
I have always been rather lucky since I got into bike touring in that there have always been stores with a good selection of things right there in front of you, which helped a lot.
and yes, a sleeping bag and camp mat can easily take up a fair amount of room on their own.
#32
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I always use a compression stuff sack for sleeping bags to get the volume down. Some of my bags are down and compress very well, the synthetic ones take more volume but still a compression sack can be worth it.
While I certainly do not need a waterproof compression sack when I put it in an Ortlieb, since I also use the compression sacks for canoeing and kayaking, I use water proof, quite happy with these ones. I usually stick my down vest in the same sack as the sleeping bag.
https://www.granitegear.com/event-si...n-drysack.html
If you yank on the cord to compress them, that is a good way to tear the cord out of the compression sack. After I stuff the sleeping bag into the sack, I sit on the sack as if it is a stool to get the air out of it and compress it with my weight, then I pull on the cords to take out the slack. That way I do not over-stress it.
There are of course lots of different compression sacks out there that are not water proof, but I have not bought any for over a decade so I can't offer any recommendations.
I have no trouble getting a tent pretty well compressed without a compression sack, so do not use a compression sack with a tent. Some clothing items I also use a compression sack, so some trips I am carrying two.
While I certainly do not need a waterproof compression sack when I put it in an Ortlieb, since I also use the compression sacks for canoeing and kayaking, I use water proof, quite happy with these ones. I usually stick my down vest in the same sack as the sleeping bag.
https://www.granitegear.com/event-si...n-drysack.html
If you yank on the cord to compress them, that is a good way to tear the cord out of the compression sack. After I stuff the sleeping bag into the sack, I sit on the sack as if it is a stool to get the air out of it and compress it with my weight, then I pull on the cords to take out the slack. That way I do not over-stress it.
There are of course lots of different compression sacks out there that are not water proof, but I have not bought any for over a decade so I can't offer any recommendations.
I have no trouble getting a tent pretty well compressed without a compression sack, so do not use a compression sack with a tent. Some clothing items I also use a compression sack, so some trips I am carrying two.
#33
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#34
Senior Member
About sacks... I used these cheap sacks strapped to my rack with a bungy in full days of rain and mud with no issue. I did coat them in additional waterproof spray before hand but not sure if I had to or not. I'm not a full time tourer but the 10 or so time I've used them they worked.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-P...y-Bag/10928125
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-P...y-Bag/10928125
Last edited by u235; 04-08-19 at 07:39 PM.
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I may do a few quick overnight offroad trips while I am in CO this summer. My MTB has rack mounts, but the configuration has left me scratching my head. The high lower eyelets on the stay coupled with the low upper eyelets combined with the really high 29er tire have me wondering if a conventional rack will work. Take a look and tell me what you think.
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I wasn't in any hurry to order a rack. I got a 40% off select items coupon from Bikesmith's this morning. One of the few items was the Axiom Streamliner 29er DLX. It is being shipped to my door for $30 even. I'll let you know how it works out once I get it installed. Thanks to all for the help.
#37
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+ in 33 , there is a frame, supporting the bag & you can load even more on top..
bag across the bars and 1 inside the frame , is the new thing..
bag across the bars and 1 inside the frame , is the new thing..
#38
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The rack came in. It is very well built. The install was ridiculously easy. Bikesmith's was great to deal with. For those that have use this rack, do the lower mounting tabs go inside or outside the dropouts? I put them on the outside because they lined up perfectly there, then got concerned about the "bite" the skewers would get.
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I wonder if an OMM would be tall enough, those 29inch tires are pretty darn tall, and any skewer rack is automatically locked into the "skewer to safe distance above the wheel" factor
P clamp or Thule rack at least has the flexibility of allowing the clamps to go on the stays where needed, although limited a bit by those unique mid area eyelets, but it seems to me that p clamps would work well-- again, purely because of light panniers, filed with clothes lets say.
an inexpensive frame pack could do tools that are heavy, and maybe add a reasonably priced handlebar bag or dry bag strapped on to handlebars or something for other stuff to have close at hand.
Paul, what panniers were you thinking of using?
A cheap rear rack with p clamps and arkel dry-lite panniers will give 25 litres of waterproof very light panniers, plus room on top of rack for other light stuff.
P clamp or Thule rack at least has the flexibility of allowing the clamps to go on the stays where needed, although limited a bit by those unique mid area eyelets, but it seems to me that p clamps would work well-- again, purely because of light panniers, filed with clothes lets say.
an inexpensive frame pack could do tools that are heavy, and maybe add a reasonably priced handlebar bag or dry bag strapped on to handlebars or something for other stuff to have close at hand.
Paul, what panniers were you thinking of using?
A cheap rear rack with p clamps and arkel dry-lite panniers will give 25 litres of waterproof very light panniers, plus room on top of rack for other light stuff.
I have an OMM on my ECR. Even with the 29+ tires, there is ample room.
OP: I think the OMM racks is your best option, considering that any 5mm eyelets added would cost you dearly. Unfortunately, the best option is not always the best solution. If I were you, and if I had the $$ching, I would hire someone to make me a custom rack - out of titanium tubing - to fit those eyelets. Then it would surely be a worthy addition to your Lynskey frame.
#40
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The rack came in. It is very well built. The install was ridiculously easy. Bikesmith's was great to deal with. For those that have use this rack, do the lower mounting tabs go inside or outside the dropouts? I put them on the outside because they lined up perfectly there, then got concerned about the "bite" the skewers would get.
Maybe not mentioned yet but... Use thread locker on the rack screws (although you are using the QR for the bottom so may not apply). I forgot last time and the screws backed out after a few days of gravel even with lock washers. I caught it before any thread damage. Do not try to overcompensate and torque then down harder, you may strip out the boss, it is a tiny m4/m5 thread.
Last edited by u235; 05-29-19 at 09:19 AM.
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...
Maybe not mentioned yet but... Use thread locker on the rack screws (although you are using the QR for the bottom so may not apply). I forgot last time and the screws backed out after a few days of gravel even with lock washers. I caught it before any thread damage. Do not try to overcompensate and torque then down harder, you may strip out the boss, it is a tiny m4/m5 thread.
Maybe not mentioned yet but... Use thread locker on the rack screws (although you are using the QR for the bottom so may not apply). I forgot last time and the screws backed out after a few days of gravel even with lock washers. I caught it before any thread damage. Do not try to overcompensate and torque then down harder, you may strip out the boss, it is a tiny m4/m5 thread.
After seeing how many people in the campgrounds have had troubles with rack bolts on tours, I have added a little bottle of a threadlocker to my tool kit to take on tours. The spout on it clogged a few times, I also bring a paper clip (attached to the threadlocker bottle with rubber band) to unclog it.
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Blackburn Local Deluxe Rack
FROM $44.99Born from the versatility of our Fat Bike Rack, the Local Deluxe Rack is a scaled down version to fit standard width tires. It ships assembled.This rack is very height and width adjustable. Can mount it front or rear.
#43
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I thought I'd give another update. I ordered and installed a pair of Ortlieb Bike Packer Classics for the Axiom Streamliner 29er DLX rack. I took the rig out for a test spin. Plenty of heel clearance. The weight distribution is fine even with everything over the rear. It is set up well for my Colorado over nighters. I leave on the 4th of July.
Thanks for the advice and information. Y'all got me set up right.
Thanks for the advice and information. Y'all got me set up right.
#44
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glad it all works out.
couple of things, dont overtighten the bolts near seatpost, while at the same time, check sometimes in case they loosen from vibrations, a very common thing to happen. This is why its good to use either some loctite or heavy grease on them, helps a lot with stopping vibration loosening.
for packing, put heavier items at bottom of panniers, and in general it also helps having similar weight in each pannier (ish)
if you are riding on really rough stuff a lot, "fattening" up the rack rails with some tape to reduce "rattling" is a good thing, Ive had good experience doing this over rough terrain over long trips, maybe not a big deal for short trips (as with bolt loosening I expect)
couple of things, dont overtighten the bolts near seatpost, while at the same time, check sometimes in case they loosen from vibrations, a very common thing to happen. This is why its good to use either some loctite or heavy grease on them, helps a lot with stopping vibration loosening.
for packing, put heavier items at bottom of panniers, and in general it also helps having similar weight in each pannier (ish)
if you are riding on really rough stuff a lot, "fattening" up the rack rails with some tape to reduce "rattling" is a good thing, Ive had good experience doing this over rough terrain over long trips, maybe not a big deal for short trips (as with bolt loosening I expect)
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