Are flick-stands still being made?
#26
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#28
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As a band-aid approach, many people loop a strong rubberband around the downtube and around the rim at the valve-stem. Depending on the strength of the rubberband, this works pretty well.
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A nylon strap with velcro could be looped around the downtube and through the rim to keep the bike steady and the fork aligned with the frame. A small bungee cord could do the same thing.
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Maker of the Velcro Parking Brake on Ebay ~ NEW MODEL
I am the maker of the Velcro Parking Brake. I just use the Flickstand name as a marker for folks looking for an alternative to the old Avid Product. Anyone can make one of these, I just sell it as a convenience. A new version will be avaialble shortly. The new model will include a clip so that this lightweight solution doubles as a Cue Clip.
Note that the Velcro Strap is not meant to double as a Flickstand, as that product locked the front wheel in place while effectively illiminating the possibility of rotation of the wheel when the bicycle was parked.
The Velcro Strap does not lock the wheel in place of course. So, it's not as effective. However, I believe it still to be a practical alternative, and is completely universal for use on all hand brake bicycles. The Flickstand, clever as it was, was unfortunately rendered obsolete, when the bicycle industry moved away from standard diameter steel frame tubing. So, unless you have a tranditional, classic or older steel bicycle frame your pretty much SOL if you want to use the Flickstand. Other importand updates to the auction is a slight increase in price. The new auction will feature two Straps, both with the clip. This will allow the cyclist to lock both front and rear brakes.
Note that the Velcro Strap is not meant to double as a Flickstand, as that product locked the front wheel in place while effectively illiminating the possibility of rotation of the wheel when the bicycle was parked.
The Velcro Strap does not lock the wheel in place of course. So, it's not as effective. However, I believe it still to be a practical alternative, and is completely universal for use on all hand brake bicycles. The Flickstand, clever as it was, was unfortunately rendered obsolete, when the bicycle industry moved away from standard diameter steel frame tubing. So, unless you have a tranditional, classic or older steel bicycle frame your pretty much SOL if you want to use the Flickstand. Other importand updates to the auction is a slight increase in price. The new auction will feature two Straps, both with the clip. This will allow the cyclist to lock both front and rear brakes.
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Isn't interesting that these little devices move the bicycle from being merely a toy to a more practical device for transportation.
#33
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I was at my LBS the other day buying tubes, and casually asked the owner about Flickstands. His eyes lit up, and he said "$10" or "three for $25"; guess what I did! Mine aren't for sale, but you might want to ask around at your long-established LBS,and see if they have any in the back room.
#34
You Know!? For Kids!
A strip of velcro around front wheel and downtube works also. I use a velcro cable tie for this.
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#35
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I have one of the original Flickstands in useable condition but no box and only the shorter of the two bail wires they came with. It's free to a good home. As pschaida mentioned above, you have to have the old "standard" diameter 1-1/8" downtube for it to fit.
PM me with contact info.
PM me with contact info.
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The Rhodegear Flickstand...
I had one of those in the early eighties! Wow, what a blast from the past. It was mounted on my gray Raleigh Competition GS with the 10-speed Nuovo Record gruppo... Loved that little thing...
Anyone remember the Cannondale velcro water bottle and cage? Now THAT was quite a gadget!
I had one of those in the early eighties! Wow, what a blast from the past. It was mounted on my gray Raleigh Competition GS with the 10-speed Nuovo Record gruppo... Loved that little thing...
Anyone remember the Cannondale velcro water bottle and cage? Now THAT was quite a gadget!
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If I ever have to lean my bike up while I'm out ill just cinch my wheel down with a toe strap. Doesn't work so well if you ride clipless...
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I just put a pebble or a twig in the gap above a depressed brake lever.
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Glad I still have my Flickstand - in good operating order (I think I just put a curse on it). But you can buy a clamp and clamp it on the downtube. Then position clamp so the wheel is between the handles -like such: <- only tighter of course. Be sure to use a clamp with rubber pads on the jaws. Or have something soft to put on the downtube.
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Flickstands and kickstands on both bikes when my wife and I rode from Atlanta to New Hampshire to Milwaukee in 1981.
Likes For JanMM:
#41
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Sure do. It took both hands to get the bottle loose when they were new and after the Velcro got a bit worn or the hooks got gunked up with debris, the bottle fell out on its own. Another one of those ideas that sounded good in theory but didn't work so well in practice.
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I must be missing something, because I don't understand the need for this device, but you all seem to think it's pretty nifty...I just lean my bike against something and it stays there, unless, umm, it's on a steep hill.
What am I missing?
What am I missing?
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It holds your front wheel in place, turning the entire bike into a rigid panel. This ways you can lean the bike and the front wheel will not turn - preventing the bike from falling down and getting scuffed-up.
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I can lean my bike's rear wheel -- and only the rear wheel -- against a tree, wall, or whatever, and it'll stand upright and not tip over. If I am being more careful then I just lean the whole bike against a wall, with the edge of the saddle and edge of the handlebar contacting the stationary object.
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The hill part. The flickstand will keep the bike from rolling even if the bike is on an incline. Locking the front brake with a strap around the brake lever or a strap through the front wheel around the downtube will do the same thing.
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Last Analysis:
The Flickstand is one of those gadgets that, after using them, you want them to be around for keeps. They are so utterly convenient that you wonder things like: "How did I make do before I had this?" To: "These should come as standard equipment on ALL bicycles!"
Murphy's Law: Of course they no longer make them.
The Flickstand is one of those gadgets that, after using them, you want them to be around for keeps. They are so utterly convenient that you wonder things like: "How did I make do before I had this?" To: "These should come as standard equipment on ALL bicycles!"
Murphy's Law: Of course they no longer make them.
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The strap around the brake lever is not quite the same... the flickstand and the strap through the front wheel both act not only as brakes, but also keep the fork from rotating...
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Yep, I know. That's why I said the strap would keep the bike from rolling. I didn't claim it would immobilize the fork too.
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For those that are truly retro, a stout 18" cord can be used to secure the brake or immobilize the front wheel.
Once the brake is locked, or even if its not on a level surface, you can make just about any object from about 4 inches to 10 inches high, into a kick stand -- any brick, rock, curb, toolbox, low bench, etc. Standing on the left side of your bike, move the bike next to and just to the left of the object that you are using for a kick stand. Move the pedal on your side forward, so that the flat of the pedal on the right side moves back and comes down against the object. Allow the bike to lean about 1 or 2 degrees against the object.
There! If you have a suitable object, in a non-windy (i.e. inside) location, the bike can stand all night that way. Guess I could post photos if the description was too hard to follow.
-- Mark
Once the brake is locked, or even if its not on a level surface, you can make just about any object from about 4 inches to 10 inches high, into a kick stand -- any brick, rock, curb, toolbox, low bench, etc. Standing on the left side of your bike, move the bike next to and just to the left of the object that you are using for a kick stand. Move the pedal on your side forward, so that the flat of the pedal on the right side moves back and comes down against the object. Allow the bike to lean about 1 or 2 degrees against the object.
There! If you have a suitable object, in a non-windy (i.e. inside) location, the bike can stand all night that way. Guess I could post photos if the description was too hard to follow.
-- Mark
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