For the love of English 3 speeds...
09-18-12, 04:12 PM
#3601
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Tx
09-18-12, 04:58 PM
#3602
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
09-18-12, 05:07 PM
#3603
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09-19-12, 06:21 AM
#3604
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RHM, Is there any information available for converting these old lights to leds?
Thanks
James
Thanks
James
09-19-12, 08:06 AM
#3605
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Here's a little more detail on the headlight...Attachment 200388
I use copper because it's soft enough to cut with a hacksaw (or coping saw or saber saw) and shape with a hand file, you can solder it, and it conducts heat well. Bonus: it won't rust.
I cut and flattened out a piece of copper pipe into a square from which I cut a disk the same size as the original parabolic reflector from the headlight; then I cut a hole in the middle of that and soldered a copper cap --the one made for 3/4" copper pipe-- into that hole. This makes a hat-shaped copper thing. If you file the corners of the black plastic lens holder, you can make it fit all the way into that cap. Drill a hole in the back of the cap for the wires. The LED+lens holder+lens are held to the copper cap with a drop of heat conductive compound. The copper piece, complete with the LED, is held in place in the bezel with four little W-shaped steel springs (original). I put extra solder on the back of the copper disk because I thought the steel springs would need to press against something; this proved unnecessary.
The bridge rectifier is soldered together from four schottky diodes in the configuration shown here. Four diodes are arranged as two pairs, their polarity reversed. Their leads at one end of each pair are formed into hook shapes and soldered together. Then the positive lead from each pair are attached to the positive wire; similarly the negative leads are attached to the negative wire. Some heat shrink tubing is employed to insulate the wires. The four diodes can be fit into a larger piece of heat shrink tubing.
The head and tail light LED's are wired in series; so the positive wire goes to the headlight, the negative wire goes to the taillight, and a third wire connects the negative on the headlight LED to the positive on the tail light LED.
I use copper because it's soft enough to cut with a hacksaw (or coping saw or saber saw) and shape with a hand file, you can solder it, and it conducts heat well. Bonus: it won't rust.
I cut and flattened out a piece of copper pipe into a square from which I cut a disk the same size as the original parabolic reflector from the headlight; then I cut a hole in the middle of that and soldered a copper cap --the one made for 3/4" copper pipe-- into that hole. This makes a hat-shaped copper thing. If you file the corners of the black plastic lens holder, you can make it fit all the way into that cap. Drill a hole in the back of the cap for the wires. The LED+lens holder+lens are held to the copper cap with a drop of heat conductive compound. The copper piece, complete with the LED, is held in place in the bezel with four little W-shaped steel springs (original). I put extra solder on the back of the copper disk because I thought the steel springs would need to press against something; this proved unnecessary.
The bridge rectifier is soldered together from four schottky diodes in the configuration shown here. Four diodes are arranged as two pairs, their polarity reversed. Their leads at one end of each pair are formed into hook shapes and soldered together. Then the positive lead from each pair are attached to the positive wire; similarly the negative leads are attached to the negative wire. Some heat shrink tubing is employed to insulate the wires. The four diodes can be fit into a larger piece of heat shrink tubing.
The head and tail light LED's are wired in series; so the positive wire goes to the headlight, the negative wire goes to the taillight, and a third wire connects the negative on the headlight LED to the positive on the tail light LED.
09-19-12, 01:05 PM
#3606
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Where does one find replacement brake pads for rod brakes?Probably a silly question but having troubles.
Also,Do they make replacement rims for 28" wheels? The rear is in badly need of replacement.
Also,Do they make replacement rims for 28" wheels? The rear is in badly need of replacement.
09-19-12, 01:36 PM
#3607
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the rims on the other hand, oh boy, your in for a hunt, although NOS and near mint ones are out there, usually from front wheels taken off scrapped bikes. Luckily Raleigh made a LOT of these bikes. This guy had them two years ago but it looks like hes out of them now.
Last edited by geoluv; 09-19-12 at 01:42 PM.
09-19-12, 01:43 PM
#3608
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Also,Do they make replacement rims for 28" wheels? The rear is in badly need of replacement.
09-19-12, 02:54 PM
#3609
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Any info on a Gresham Flyer? The little I've found doesn't show it in the Raleigh family. Just looks like a funk work horse on the floor of the LBS.
09-19-12, 03:38 PM
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Pardon the crappy cellphone quality.
Last edited by jrecoi; 09-20-12 at 09:10 AM.
09-19-12, 04:26 PM
#3611
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Hey Michael, I've gotta ask...
What kind of saddle is that?
Tx
What kind of saddle is that?
Tx
Last edited by Siu Blue Wind; 09-19-12 at 05:57 PM. Reason: clean up, political
09-19-12, 05:49 PM
#3612
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By the way, I know this should be posted in the for sale section, but if anyone is looking to sell their 3-speed (especially a matching mens/womens set) PM me! I want so bad, but I just haven't had any luck in my searches--patience is a virtue, but I'm not the kind of guy to sit around and wait without at least trying. So if you're trying to sell, let me know!! Thanks!
As you can see, I'm not near you. Would you like me to keep an eye out for you? They're pretty common in this area. Do you insist on a men's? The women's models are plentifuller.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-19-12, 05:56 PM
#3614
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You don't actually need the bridge rectifier, as long as you have two LED's (one front, one back; or two front; doesn't matter) with polarity reversed. Run a wire from one hub terminal to the + terminal of one LED and the - terminal of the other; run the second wire from the other hub terminal to the other LED terminals. If you do this, the LED's will flash alternately, which is annoying at low speeds. Over 12 mph or so you don't notice it much.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-19-12, 05:59 PM
#3615
aka Tom Reingold
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Hey folks, I have a modern LED flashlight, and I'd like to mount it to my 3-speed's bracket. Any ideas?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-19-12, 08:18 PM
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put the guts of the flashlight into a Miller or Lucas lamp shell?
09-19-12, 08:52 PM
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
09-20-12, 05:58 AM
#3618
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Beautiful bikes...but the zip ties have got to go!
09-20-12, 06:29 AM
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After years of fooling with different methods of securing wires, I came to settle on zip ties. They handle different conditions well enough, stay tight once locked down, and you can cut them and replace freely if you need to do more work. Lace and leather strips looked nice, but they didn't like moisture or temperature changes much. It was also hard to keep them tight and secure. White plastic was what the store had, though I suppose if I could get green ones that matched the paint I'd go that route.
That green bike is my "home away from home" between all my stuff in that bag and the ability to move bigger stuff on the rack. Both have the 22 tooth cog swap, which I think is one of the best moves to make. The Sports also has a Trygg double leg rack, which I prefer to the usual leaning ones.
That green bike is my "home away from home" between all my stuff in that bag and the ability to move bigger stuff on the rack. Both have the 22 tooth cog swap, which I think is one of the best moves to make. The Sports also has a Trygg double leg rack, which I prefer to the usual leaning ones.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 09-20-12 at 06:33 AM.
09-20-12, 08:55 AM
#3620
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After years of fooling with different methods of securing wires, I came to settle on zip ties. They handle different conditions well enough, stay tight once locked down, and you can cut them and replace freely if you need to do more work. Lace and leather strips looked nice, but they didn't like moisture or temperature changes much. It was also hard to keep them tight and secure. White plastic was what the store had, though I suppose if I could get green ones that matched the paint I'd go that route.
This album of a 1961 Rudge lovingly traces out this routing: https://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...udge%20Sports/
09-20-12, 12:11 PM
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As far as rims go, in Colombia I've found some 28 x 1 1/2 Raleigh-pattern (Westrick) aluminium rims, as well as Aluminium Westwood-pattern rims. Pretty light too, some 500g/rim, although the spoke holes are unreenforced so rim washers are necessary for these.
Pardon the crappy cellphone quality.
Pardon the crappy cellphone quality.
Thanks!
(P.S.: Nice Willys!)
Last edited by brianinc-ville; 09-20-12 at 12:16 PM.
09-20-12, 12:38 PM
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Back when the rear brake cable was secured with top tube clips, the clips had a small recess for the lighting wires.
09-20-12, 03:59 PM
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Its from RBR. https://www.hiwheel.com/parts/index.htm
Thanks John, Goeluv. The pad holders (mounts)on mine are different from the front to back.At one time I came across just the pads but don't remember where.
09-20-12, 07:34 PM
#3625
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I called them today, and they're willing to sell straight from the factory; they have 28 x 1 1/2 rims immediately available, and they know of 26 x 1 1/2 and 26 x 1 3/8, but they don't make them at the moment from lack of local demand (It was hard enough to get tires for 26 x 1 3/8 in the largest city in the country). From my location, they're pretty close, about an hour's bus ride. As far as shipping rims to the US, its a grey market affair, although I travel every once in a while back to the US.
Thanks! The Willys is from the same year as my Raleigh Sports.