bonsai171

Tim,

Those are some deep section rims! Love the carbon weave.

Dave

JonathanTeatime

Hi smashndash,

I'm really interested in your setup, opting for pretty much the same. (I have discs though.)
Some questions:
1. Do you have the tubeless version of the 26mm Specialized Turbo?
2. How wide does it measure on the 23mm internal rim? (Maybe a closeup of the rim-tire connection?)
3. How easy was fitting?
4. A bit unrelated, but how much was it extra to get internal nipples? (Guess they can't use a machine for trueing then.) Do you think they got it right?

/JT

TimothyH

My impressions...

Keep in mind that I'm riding 48x16 fixed gear and speeds >25 MPH will be rare.

The build is:

• RRU35C02 rims - 25 mm wide, 35 mm deep, 3k matte with grooved graphene brake track.
• Mack Superlight track hubs.
• Brass nipples with CX-Ray spokes, 24-2x rear, 20-radial front.

Rolling: They are round and true. They hold the tires on. No big surprise.

Mounting: Mounting Vittoria Rubino G+ Speed was more difficult than any other road rim I've used. These are also the widest road rim I've ever used.

Weight: I want to say "Lack of inertia" rather than weight. They are 1/3 lb lighter than the old wheels and almost all of that inertia is/was at the rim. Less inertia to overcome can be felt when rapidly changing speeds such as jumping out of the saddle to speed up. Accelerating from a red light is exactly the same from stopped through about 12 MPH but once the pedals and wheels get spun up a little I can accelerate through 18 or 20 MPH or so much easier.

Ride Quality: The radial stiffness of the deeper rim can be felt. They feel harsher than the old wheels when crossing expansion joints and road cracks. Tires and pressure are the same as the old wheels. I'm running cruddy tubes. I will be experimenting with pressure a bit.

Aero: Yes. The tire and rim width are within 1 mm of each other whereas the old rims were a little narrower. The extra depth, true aero profile vs deep V on the old rims and CX-Ray spokes could be felt as slightly less effort when going fast, <20 MPH. It is subtle but I believe it can be felt. Keep in mind that I'm the guy who claims to be able to feel extra drag when my hands are on the tops of a flat aero handlebar vs the hoods.

Braking: This is my biggest concern. Black Prince pads have a bedding in process which I did. Panic stops seem OK. Modulation doesn't seem as good as the alloy rims - they seem to lack a little lever feel. Maybe I just need to get used to them over time and part of it is probably the difference between Koolstop salmon pads on the old rims and Black Prince on the new. Toe-in on the pads needs to be adjusted better as well. The sound isn't as obnoxious as some carbon rims I've heard - I was expecting worse.

I'm happy with them and they changed the look of the bike completely.


-Tim-

superdex

2 things:

1) it's a beautiful build. Nicely done

2) We had that paint color (Latte, I presume?). We just redid the whole house to Accessible Beige. Big difference (the house just felt closed in and dark before. It's much lighter now)

TimothyH

Color doesn't show well in that photo taken at night.

It is PPG 15008 "Dark Blue Solid."

noodle soup

Good to see you are out riding again.

How do you feel?

TimothyH

Thanks for asking.

A few days ago I woke up without leg pain. Gone as quickly as it came. Not complaining but

So I took the fixed gear out for the first ride rather than a freewheel bike because why not test your leg with a large hammer? No soft pedaling.

It felt really good so yeah, looking forward to some rides this weekend.


-Tim-

superdex

I was talking about the wall color

smashndash

1. Using the tubed clincher turbo pro, not S-Works.
2. I would say the tire sits very wide and squat. Not super tall. Tire width is around 29+mm, measured with a ruler at 60 psi. Higher than I would ever run probably but more in-line with what normal people run.


Top view, rim is obscured so maybe closer to 30mm?



3. Fitting was very easy with plastic levers. Probably doable with bare hands but I’ve been swapping tires too much to deal with that lol. but it’s a clincher so I can’t say anything about TL.
4. No upcharge for internal nipples but I made sure to ask for Sapim upside down nipples rather than the standard external nipples. Not sure what LB does if you say internal and don’t mention the upside down. Grooved graphene track has a $60, $30 per rim upcharge though. I’d say they got it right. I haven’t had any truing issues and I’ve jumped the bike a few times and slammed plenty of potholes. I’ll probably crack the rim before this thing goes out of true lol. I read somewhere they no longer use a machine for building any of their wheels because of the vast variety of wheels they build. So I wouldn’t worry too much about trueness. I was sure to get bladed spokes though because I’ve heard straight pull + round spokes = PITA

TimothyH

Oh. .

Bikes on the brain 24x7.

Max_Jones

Advice needed. Those of you who fitted GP5000 TL on a set of WR56C02, how did you get on?

Getting close to getting the front tyre on, but on the rear I can’t even manage to fit the first side of the tyre.

Where am I going wrong? Also tried some clinchers on the rear, Bontrager R1 & Ultremo ZX fitted easily by hand.

smashndash

I don't have much useful advice, but here's a checklist:
1) are both sides of the tire in the center of the deep channel? The second bead might be stuck on the outside of the bead ridge.
2) is the "finishing edge" away from the valve?
3) did you pull the slack out of the tire? Try "stretching" the tire in the direction of the finishing edge with your entire body weight.
4) Try loosening the TL valve so that the bung isn't blocking the channel. I don't have any experience with this, but I imagine it should help...

Hopefully someone can give you some more pointers.

TimothyH

So these wheels...

This is my first set of remotely aero wheels.

The old wheels were 23 mm wide x 25 mm deep and V shaped. These are 25 mm wide x 35 mm deep U shaped with bladed spokes and the width of the tire and rim match almost exactly

That much change is huge, easily enough for a 1 MPH gain in average speed over 30 miles on a flat course.

It's a little mind blowing actually. I was all weight weenie all the time but now its clear that aero is really a thing.


-Tim-

WhyFi

So *now* what can your single speed beat up?

cp88mb1

(first post here after lurking and learning forever) -- Lol, I had same experience today. Went from 22.5 wide/ 24.5 deep Rol alloy wheels to non-disc DT Swiss PRC 1400 spline 35s (25 wide/ 35 deep, with GP 5000 tl tires) and was just completely blown away. I think there were a bunch of factors at play -- aero, stiffer rims, better hubs. Goddang, it was magic. Or witchcraft. Didn't love the braking, but I'll adjust.

Max_Jones

Cheers for the advice. Purchased a decent set of levers and left the tyres in the sun for an hour, managed to get them on relatively easy. Probably wasn’t helping it’s nearly freezing in the garage here in NZ...
Can’t post a photo yet as I have less than ten posts 😢

noodle soup

I agree

I would do the opposite


Wut?

I've never needed to do this, but it might actually help.

noodle soup

These wheels are also lighter than your old wheels.

smashndash

Yeah I’ve always been confused about whether you’re supposed to finish at the valve or 90 degrees from the valve or opposite the valve. :shrug: I finish away from the valve but I also don’t use TL.

The “slack” thing is something a guy from Mavic showed me when I was demoing UST at Sea Otter. It definitely helps a LOT. Maybe I’ll make a video if this doesn’t make sense. But here I go:

Get the tire to the point where there’s only that one finishing edge left. Turn the wheel so that that edge is towards the ground. Put the wheel on the ground (ideally a soft surface). The goal now is to stretch the tire along the circumference of the wheel towards the finishing edge. So if the finishing edge is at 6 o clock, start pulling the slack out from the 12 o clock position with both hands in opposite directions. Eventually your hands will be at 3 and 9. At this point, you can use your entire body weight to pull (push?) the tire towards the finishing edge. Continue to slide your hands towards the finishing edge while maintaining tension. Without releasing tension, try to get the finishing edge over.

bobones

I'll need the video, thanks.

WhyFi

You want to finish at the valve. You want the tire beads in the center well, the smallest circumference of the rim, so that you have as much slack as possible when you pop the last bit on; the valve stem takes up space in that center well, taking away a precious bit of slack.

noodle soup

Bdop would argue with you about this, but he would be wrong.

smashndash

Yeah that makes sense. But for some reason park tool and Jan Heine recommend starting at the valve? They don’t explain why though. Fit Werx says “Next, mount the other side of the tire onto the rim, starting at the spoke hole. While this may sound backwards to what you learned on a tubed tire, doing this can be quite important as it allows the bead to settle into the center groove of the rim better and thus effectively loosens the bead on the rim.”

:shrug: Also yes, they did say “spoke hole”. Sigh

smashndash

OK I’ll try to film something if I have some time.

WhyFi

Maybe the also accidently omitted the word "opposite." The rest would make sense in that context.