Rollers?
#102
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I got the new roller set a few days ago, & fared better than TimothyH in shipping- the nuts holding front feet had vibrated off and were lost,
but the replacements cost $.50 so NBD.
First real ride today- GCN 1 hr workout running through the gears.
The report: quieter, espec. at high rpms, larger, heavy drums spin smoothly, & extra width (18") makes for more relaxed riding
while watching the TV, compared to the Performance/Travel Track set.
but the replacements cost $.50 so NBD.
First real ride today- GCN 1 hr workout running through the gears.
The report: quieter, espec. at high rpms, larger, heavy drums spin smoothly, & extra width (18") makes for more relaxed riding
while watching the TV, compared to the Performance/Travel Track set.
#103
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That works..
I'm upgrading to the TruTrainers Rollers shortly. I tried them and the eMotion.
I don't see the point of the eMotion, it allows for slop via the moving frame... yeah, you can play the "game" of not allowing the frame to move but the coasting is far superior on the TT's. You can easily stand on the TruTrainers, and they still demand that you hold a really tight line. I don't want forgiveness in the rollers, that's what the eMotions do, and it defeats the purpose of rollers IMO.
Good luck, and enjoy.
I'm upgrading to the TruTrainers Rollers shortly. I tried them and the eMotion.
I don't see the point of the eMotion, it allows for slop via the moving frame... yeah, you can play the "game" of not allowing the frame to move but the coasting is far superior on the TT's. You can easily stand on the TruTrainers, and they still demand that you hold a really tight line. I don't want forgiveness in the rollers, that's what the eMotions do, and it defeats the purpose of rollers IMO.
Good luck, and enjoy.
#104
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That works..
I'm upgrading to the TruTrainers Rollers shortly. I tried them and the eMotion.
I don't see the point of the eMotion, it allows for slop via the moving frame... yeah, you can play the "game" of not allowing the frame to move but the coasting is far superior on the TT's. You can easily stand on the TruTrainers, and they still demand that you hold a really tight line. I don't want forgiveness in the rollers, that's what the eMotions do, and it defeats the purpose of rollers IMO.
Good luck, and enjoy.
I'm upgrading to the TruTrainers Rollers shortly. I tried them and the eMotion.
I don't see the point of the eMotion, it allows for slop via the moving frame... yeah, you can play the "game" of not allowing the frame to move but the coasting is far superior on the TT's. You can easily stand on the TruTrainers, and they still demand that you hold a really tight line. I don't want forgiveness in the rollers, that's what the eMotions do, and it defeats the purpose of rollers IMO.
Good luck, and enjoy.
Thanks.
Where are you able to try rollers? Is there a showroom or LBS with them on display near you?
Third time on last night - 3 by 15 minutes alternating between fixed gear (48-16), road bike and then fixed again. Concentrated on smooth pedaling but pushed the cadence as high as I could for the last two minutes of each session. Got a little bouncy at high RPM.
Progressive resistance seems to work well as I was only able to push as fast on the rollers as I am on the road.
-Tim-
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Thanks.
Where are you able to try rollers? Is there a showroom or LBS with them on display near you?
Third time on last night - 3 by 15 minutes alternating between fixed gear (48-16), road bike and then fixed again. Concentrated on smooth pedaling but pushed the cadence as high as I could for the last two minutes of each session. Got a little bouncy at high RPM.
Progressive resistance seems to work well as I was only able to push as fast on the rollers as I am on the road.
-Tim-
Where are you able to try rollers? Is there a showroom or LBS with them on display near you?
Third time on last night - 3 by 15 minutes alternating between fixed gear (48-16), road bike and then fixed again. Concentrated on smooth pedaling but pushed the cadence as high as I could for the last two minutes of each session. Got a little bouncy at high RPM.
Progressive resistance seems to work well as I was only able to push as fast on the rollers as I am on the road.
-Tim-
#107
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Very amusing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLKN9JMfS-U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLKN9JMfS-U
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#111
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I'll certainly admit to being serious about cycling. I realize that she didn't ask for my criticism and so it's totally uncalled for but I thought maybe someone could get some value from it. Plus I almost never watch videos with the sound on because it bothers others.
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#112
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I'll certainly admit to being serious about cycling. I realize that she didn't ask for my criticism and so it's totally uncalled for but I thought maybe someone could get some value from it. Plus I almost never watch videos with the sound on because it bothers others.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
Last edited by TimothyH; 01-09-17 at 07:56 PM.
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Thanks.
Where are you able to try rollers? Is there a showroom or LBS with them on display near you?
Third time on last night - 3 by 15 minutes alternating between fixed gear (48-16), road bike and then fixed again. Concentrated on smooth pedaling but pushed the cadence as high as I could for the last two minutes of each session. Got a little bouncy at high RPM.
Progressive resistance seems to work well as I was only able to push as fast on the rollers as I am on the road.
-Tim-
Where are you able to try rollers? Is there a showroom or LBS with them on display near you?
Third time on last night - 3 by 15 minutes alternating between fixed gear (48-16), road bike and then fixed again. Concentrated on smooth pedaling but pushed the cadence as high as I could for the last two minutes of each session. Got a little bouncy at high RPM.
Progressive resistance seems to work well as I was only able to push as fast on the rollers as I am on the road.
-Tim-
You're definitely going to get bouncy at high RPM. Holding a good, still form at high RPM is a good place to be...
I do the slow game as well...I'll mess around for say...10-20 minutes below 10mph, trying to go as slow as possible.
It's nice not to have a cadence drum to swap out with the resistance drum. If you want to just work on form, it's great because it makes the rollers less forgiving. That's why I bought the inertia drum, besides the coasting I use the drum that was swapped out to accommodate it as a swap for the resistance and I just drop it in depending on what I feel like doing.
#115
Farmer tan
#116
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I appreciated the advice, even if it wasn't meant for me, and would welcome critique.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
#117
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I appreciated the advice, even if it wasn't meant for me, and would welcome critique.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
My guess on the movement is that you need to work more on moving the pedals with your legs only and very possibly saddle height might play into this. Another exercise: put your geared bike into a really big gear, so that you're out of zone 2 at a 50-55 cadence. Probably will take your 53 X 11 or thereabouts or maybe you can't even get that low a cadence - depends on the resistance. Anywhere under 70 is good. Big reason for having the resistance. Try to pedal only with your legs and without prying on the bars. No more than 10 minute intervals doing this.
I never get tired of watching this video:
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#118
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I appreciated the advice, even if it wasn't meant for me, and would welcome critique.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
Maintain your maximum zone 2 cadence for between 15 and 45 minutes, no break. The no break is very important. Then finish with another 15' of zone 1 to let your legs go down.
Or maintain that high cadence until your legs start really hurting or you see your HR ramping up even though your cadence is steady. When one is in good condition, this is an excellent recovery ride, as it stresses and energizes the legs without stressing the aerobic system. Training stress score will be fairly low, maybe 50 or less.
I do this workout once a week for most of the year. Sometimes in the spring, I'll substitute the one-legged pedaling.
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#119
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Very amusing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLKN9JMfS-U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLKN9JMfS-U
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#120
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@Carbonfiberboy, I can't tell you how much I appreciate that you took the time to type that up. You have a lot of insight.
I'm very stiff and have to work at flexibility. I've not done that recently and it is to my shame. That is part of what you are seeing.
Going to reread what you typed several times...
I'm very stiff and have to work at flexibility. I've not done that recently and it is to my shame. That is part of what you are seeing.
Going to reread what you typed several times...
#121
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I appreciated the advice, even if it wasn't meant for me, and would welcome critique.
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
1. Slow cadence trying to keep the heart rate low
2. faster cadence on the road bike after about 30 minutes riding.
3. Fast on the fixed gear after close to an hour of riding. Pretty wiped out at this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEidzsXrYIU
#122
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@Carbonfiberboy, I can't tell you how much I appreciate that you took the time to type that up. You have a lot of insight.
I'm very stiff and have to work at flexibility. I've not done that recently and it is to my shame. That is part of what you are seeing.
Going to reread what you typed several times...
I'm very stiff and have to work at flexibility. I've not done that recently and it is to my shame. That is part of what you are seeing.
Going to reread what you typed several times...
Only takes a few minutes and seems to be enough.
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Results matter
Results matter
#124
My bikes became Vintage
I'm dismayed that this thread ended over 3 years ago. But I may as well throw in my 2 cents.
I got a set of rollers over 30 years ago ($120 at the LBS). I spent time on them, but never really seriously. They're some no-name brand made in Japan (back then that was like Made in China). They have 4.5" diameter rollers as opposed to what came later and are still sold now, with tiny 2.5" rollers, for more resistance and to cut cost. When I wanted to add resistance I fabricated something from a double ended electric motor with a fan on each end I picked up at a surplus store. It was clamped to and hinged from the seat post and the armature ran on the rear tire, held down with a bungee cord. I had to tape off half the area of the fan rotors to lower the resistance.
Most people who try rollers give up because they're too twitchy and they can't stay on long enough. But I've seen people who can ride no hands and change their jersey while doing it. I did a couple of things to make it easier for me. First, I taped a row of toothpicks to each end of the front roller as rumble strips to warn me if I was watching TV. Second, and this is my own invention and I should have patented it, I fabricated a smaller diameter pulley that bolts on to the drive roller so that the front roller turned at half speed. This makes the steering a lot less twitchy and easier to control.
But the most amazing advance I've seen over the years is crowned rollers. These work on the same principle as crowned pulleys that keep flat belts centered. The cost twice as much as regular rollers, but look like an amazing solution for people who have trouble staying on.
I got a set of rollers over 30 years ago ($120 at the LBS). I spent time on them, but never really seriously. They're some no-name brand made in Japan (back then that was like Made in China). They have 4.5" diameter rollers as opposed to what came later and are still sold now, with tiny 2.5" rollers, for more resistance and to cut cost. When I wanted to add resistance I fabricated something from a double ended electric motor with a fan on each end I picked up at a surplus store. It was clamped to and hinged from the seat post and the armature ran on the rear tire, held down with a bungee cord. I had to tape off half the area of the fan rotors to lower the resistance.
Most people who try rollers give up because they're too twitchy and they can't stay on long enough. But I've seen people who can ride no hands and change their jersey while doing it. I did a couple of things to make it easier for me. First, I taped a row of toothpicks to each end of the front roller as rumble strips to warn me if I was watching TV. Second, and this is my own invention and I should have patented it, I fabricated a smaller diameter pulley that bolts on to the drive roller so that the front roller turned at half speed. This makes the steering a lot less twitchy and easier to control.
But the most amazing advance I've seen over the years is crowned rollers. These work on the same principle as crowned pulleys that keep flat belts centered. The cost twice as much as regular rollers, but look like an amazing solution for people who have trouble staying on.
#125
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EXACTLY. I am still riding on my Kreitler rollers, bought new in 1990. Really. Have replaced belts three times over the years. Just put on some new rubber feet and I wonder why I waited so long to do this. I also have the Kreitler Killer Head Wind unit for resistance and it also cools you down nicely as i blows a lot of air and you can position it just as you like it.
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