Bare metal frame requirements
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,763
Bikes: Pinarello Veneto, Pinarello Montello, Bianchi Celeste
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Bare metal frame requirements
I wanted to do a bare metal frame bike project to be geared.
This is mainly because I picked up a frame that has really bad paint and I'm thinking about just getting it stripped or sandblasted.
After I have removed the paint what would you recommend for the bare metal finish? A few coats of clear coat? Is there anything I should do before applying?
Also would you recommend sand blasting or getting it chemically stripped?
It is just you typical steel frame.
This is mainly because I picked up a frame that has really bad paint and I'm thinking about just getting it stripped or sandblasted.
After I have removed the paint what would you recommend for the bare metal finish? A few coats of clear coat? Is there anything I should do before applying?
Also would you recommend sand blasting or getting it chemically stripped?
It is just you typical steel frame.
#2
Stop reading my posts!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,574
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1440 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times
in
783 Posts
if you don't care about rust go ahead and clear coat...rust will eventually bloom under the clear, and spread.
If you want better, get it blasted and immediately clear powder coated, no moisture and especially no handling between the blast booth and the powder rack.
If you want better, get it blasted and immediately clear powder coated, no moisture and especially no handling between the blast booth and the powder rack.
#3
Senior Member
chemical strip will leave the metal smooth and shiny, unless there is rust spots. sandblasting will leave the metal rough. what i would do is blast it then sand it moving up to finer paper until you get the finish you want. a cheap way would to just use an enamel clear, a great way would be a clear powdercoat. i did a trek aluminum mtb and i rough sanded the frame leaving swirled sanding marks, then cleared over it. its held up really nice.
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#4
Curmudgeon in Training
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rural Retreat, VA
Posts: 1,956
Bikes: 1974 Gazelle Champion Mondial, 2010 Cannondale Trail SL, 1988 Peugeot Nice, 1992ish Stumpjumper Comp,1990's Schwinn Moab
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times
in
8 Posts
Powder coating is porous. Why would that be the recommendation over a liquid in an effort to prevent rust?
#5
Senior Member
hard to see chips in clear over bare metal, you wont notice it until rust pops up, then gets under the rest of the clear. powdercoating is more durable. if done right i wouldnt think it would rust. i could be wrong though. i'm not really into powdercoating.
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#6
Stop reading my posts!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,574
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1440 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times
in
783 Posts
nothing is impervious, but powder coating is usually a much less porous film (since it's usually thick and a very evenly applied plastic resin) than most liquid paint.
The thing that goes in its favor is that most powder coaters will get the thing blasted to bare metal, dusted and baked without ever touching it with bare hands and before ambient moisture can attach.
I have sprayed a fair bit of bare steel (with high quality paint in a spray booth as well as rattle cans) and despite how careful I have been (not always) I have yet to see one that doesn't eventually rust under the clear paint.
What examples I have seen of clear powder coating have shown no (or very little) rust SO FAR.
as always, YRMV...and some folks like rust, or at least don't care.
The thing that goes in its favor is that most powder coaters will get the thing blasted to bare metal, dusted and baked without ever touching it with bare hands and before ambient moisture can attach.
I have sprayed a fair bit of bare steel (with high quality paint in a spray booth as well as rattle cans) and despite how careful I have been (not always) I have yet to see one that doesn't eventually rust under the clear paint.
What examples I have seen of clear powder coating have shown no (or very little) rust SO FAR.
as always, YRMV...and some folks like rust, or at least don't care.
#7
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,848
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2927 Post(s)
Liked 2,922 Times
in
1,490 Posts
I think the idea of doing this has vexed steel fans for a long time, or atleast since Gita used a bare DeRosa in a ad in the late '80s. I would love to do it to Hilda one day.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#8
Senior Member
#9
Senior Member
Check out everbrite protectaclear. https://www.everbritecoatings.com/car...&products_id=5
#10
Stop reading my posts!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,574
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1440 Post(s)
Liked 1,058 Times
in
783 Posts
I have used Everbrite ^ in the past and I like it for some uses.
The seller is pretty close-mouthed about what's in it, but the MSDS seems to indicate a nylon resin.
The upside is you can get smooth results with a variety of applicators (brush, sponge, even a cloth pad) cause it self-levels, downside is it's pretty fume-y and you are required to use nitrile gloves, and a respirator if spraying it, which tells me the solvent is toxic.
Never tried it (yet) over bare steel.
The seller is pretty close-mouthed about what's in it, but the MSDS seems to indicate a nylon resin.
The upside is you can get smooth results with a variety of applicators (brush, sponge, even a cloth pad) cause it self-levels, downside is it's pretty fume-y and you are required to use nitrile gloves, and a respirator if spraying it, which tells me the solvent is toxic.
Never tried it (yet) over bare steel.
#11
Senior Member
BF member DRietz had his Soma Smoothie PC'd clear. It'd be nice to have an update to the thread. It was pretty cool.
__________________
Bikes on Flickr
I prefer email to private messages. You can contact me at justinhughes@me.com
Bikes on Flickr
I prefer email to private messages. You can contact me at justinhughes@me.com
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 96
Bikes: Unknown 531 resto-mod
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Considering this same thing myself. Have a unknown 531 frame that Im going to build up. It has a sweet Gunmetal grey patina to it and I wanted to keep the look and add some color accents to the seat and head tube. And out line the lugs. As there is no heritage left to the frame Im going to have some resto-mod fun with it.
The third school of thought about a bare frame is using a clear rust inhibitor from the hot rod world. Like this one. On a couple rodder sites I follow a lot of guys give it praise.
Or there is also POR15 that comes in clear... Never used it though. Dont know how "clear" it really is.
For me Im going to shoot on a clear adhesion promoter followed by 3-4 coats of quality automotive urethane clear. And just be really diligent about checking for chips.
The third school of thought about a bare frame is using a clear rust inhibitor from the hot rod world. Like this one. On a couple rodder sites I follow a lot of guys give it praise.
Or there is also POR15 that comes in clear... Never used it though. Dont know how "clear" it really is.
For me Im going to shoot on a clear adhesion promoter followed by 3-4 coats of quality automotive urethane clear. And just be really diligent about checking for chips.
#13
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,848
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2927 Post(s)
Liked 2,922 Times
in
1,490 Posts
I know the idea of bluing has been discussed but I wonder if a frame could be case hardened or would the heat be harmful to the brazing?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#14
Riding like its 1990
I took a rotary brass brush to a frame, cleaned it all up and hit it with simple rustoleum clear enamel. Looked great and I figured it'd be easy to touch up and redo if needed. A buddy has it, over a year and a half now so maybe I should take a look at it.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 748
Bikes: I don't even
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
77 Posts
I wish I had pictures of it, but a few months ago I received a steel track frame in a trade that was bare steel. to prevent rust, the previous owner rubbed used motor oil on the frame. It didn't rub off so much that touching it would get you filthy and the finish looked really cool!
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,763
Bikes: Pinarello Veneto, Pinarello Montello, Bianchi Celeste
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
i was trying to keep the budget low. did the rustoleum hold up really well?
is there a normal clear coat i can buy from the store or should i go with the rustoleum?
is there a normal clear coat i can buy from the store or should i go with the rustoleum?
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Vancouver BC. Canada
Posts: 70
Bikes: 1969, 1972 and 1973 Crescent Pepita Specials
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I know the idea of bluing has been discussed but I wonder if a frame could be case hardened or would the heat be harmful to the brazing?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening
Pip
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here is my Bianchi Grizzly frame which I stripped and had clear powdercoated
More Pics: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/29830063_439Pgh
More Pics: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/29830063_439Pgh
#20
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,848
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2927 Post(s)
Liked 2,922 Times
in
1,490 Posts
I think depending on your location $80 to 130 or so
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#21
Cat 6
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mountain Brook, AL
Posts: 7,482
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 183 Times
in
118 Posts
There are also clear primers / adhesion promoters. Whether they help deter rust as well I have no idea.
(spray can - Duplicolor CP199)
I see Rust-Oleum makes one, too. No. 251572 (stupid hash tags won't let you use a number symbol any more).
(spray can - Duplicolor CP199)
I see Rust-Oleum makes one, too. No. 251572 (stupid hash tags won't let you use a number symbol any more).
Last edited by Ex Pres; 07-10-13 at 01:19 PM.
#22
Senior Member
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jacksonwest
Classic & Vintage
11
08-26-15 12:43 AM
turbofeedus
Bicycle Mechanics
17
12-14-14 01:41 PM