Pain between anus and scrotum
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Pain between anus and scrotum
Hi I'm pretty new in road cycling. I bought bike for 2 weeks ago but when I was on ride I had pain between anus and scrotum. Do you know how can I avoid this? It is normal to have pain there when I'm new to road cycling?
Last edited by duele; 05-05-16 at 03:05 PM.
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You may need to "break in" your backside. Start off with 30-45 minutes/ride and increase by 15 minutes every couple of rides.
Are you wearing proper cycling shorts with a chamois pad and no underwear? If not, do so. Make sure your saddle is level.
If that's not working, you probably need to go to the bike shop to ensure the bike is fit to you properly. It may need some adjustments.
Are you wearing proper cycling shorts with a chamois pad and no underwear? If not, do so. Make sure your saddle is level.
If that's not working, you probably need to go to the bike shop to ensure the bike is fit to you properly. It may need some adjustments.
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This area you speak of is the land known as the perineum.. this land is sensitive, but rugged....
A new saddle is what you seek... pain there is not normal.... also, try adjusting saddle height and saddle fore and aft...
also, at your local bike shop it is possible to receive a bike fit...
A new saddle is what you seek... pain there is not normal.... also, try adjusting saddle height and saddle fore and aft...
also, at your local bike shop it is possible to receive a bike fit...
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Could be any number of things from incorrect seat height to cheap saddle to toughening up the area. The first can be solved by trial and error and have others watch you pedal. The third comes with miles. The second is also trial and error and is going to cost a few bucks. The cut out saddles work for many people.
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As others have said, could be many things but I would start w a bike fit and relief saddle, as pictured above or similar. Then, and only then, go out and ride more miles to harden up
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I recommend showing your LBS where the pain is and see what they can do to help.
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Slide the saddle forward? If it's too far back, your taint could be resting on the narrow part of the saddle.
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duele, there is wisdom in the posts above, but they are quick answers.
The long answer - you have just started a journey; finding that "right" bicycle seat. How long will it take? Can't answer that one. Might be a quick turn of a bolt under your seat, it might take years.
Good road bike fit starts at the seat. Its height, tilt and back and forth position. Plus its shape vs yours. There are no rules here except what you fell. You can gain from others' experience and wisdom, but it may not apply to you at all.
First: is the height about right? At the bottom of you pedal stroke is your knee slightly bent? Good. Big bend? Too low. You have to reach or go toes down for the pedal? Seat is too high.
Second: is it about level? Good place to start.
Third: is it in a good place back and forth? Drop a plumbline or string with a weight on it from the nose of the seat. Is it at or in front of or behind the crank axle? On a small bike (21"/53 cm or smaller), at or slightly in front (maybe 1/2") is a good start. On a larger bike (23"/58 cm or larger), behind up to an inch is a good place to start. (If the reach to yhour handlebars is too long or short, this will make things a lot harder to sort out. Seat position always comes first, But sometimes we have to change things up front just to be close enough that we can see and feel what is happening with the seat.)
If you cannot adjust your seat using the seatpost clamp bolts and the seatpin bolt to get a good starting place, see your bikeshop for possibly another post. If the post is now at a good starting point, ride it and see if it feels better. No? Your shop probably has a device to measure how far apart your sitbones are. It may well be that the seat you have doesn't match your width. If no, talk to them about exchanging it for a better match.
Then there are the intangibles. Cutouts and grooves that make such a huge difference for many of us. Non-grooved/cutout seats stopped working for me in my early 40s. The actual shape of the seat makes a huge difference. So do the materials and construction details. And the choices? Hundreds? I haven't counted. Life's too short.
There are shops that will allow yhou to try a seat on yhour bie for long enough to know if they work, then bring them back and try another. There are shops that have "libraries" where you can buy a card ($25 at a shop I know), take out any seat on the shelf and ride it a week, then return it and ride another. You can "take out" all 25 seats. And when you find one, your $25 goes toward it.
New bikes often come with less than the best seats. (There are manufacturers who figure you are going to get what works best for you and pricing the bike up with a more expensive seat that you are just going to take off anyway is a waste for all.) When you have your current seat adjusted as best you can, you will begin to see where its shortcomings are and be better informed on where to spend money for possibly a higher quality seat. But, and this is a huge but, if the next seat isn't right for you, the big pile of money you spent, the very high quality materials in it and the "gotta have it" factor will amount to absolutely zero comfort-wise except that it will delay you taking the next action to get it right. (Pride does that.)
Welcome, duele, to our forum. And welcome to the "find that seat" journey. (That seat is out there. Have faith and perseverance. It is so worth it!
Ben
The long answer - you have just started a journey; finding that "right" bicycle seat. How long will it take? Can't answer that one. Might be a quick turn of a bolt under your seat, it might take years.
Good road bike fit starts at the seat. Its height, tilt and back and forth position. Plus its shape vs yours. There are no rules here except what you fell. You can gain from others' experience and wisdom, but it may not apply to you at all.
First: is the height about right? At the bottom of you pedal stroke is your knee slightly bent? Good. Big bend? Too low. You have to reach or go toes down for the pedal? Seat is too high.
Second: is it about level? Good place to start.
Third: is it in a good place back and forth? Drop a plumbline or string with a weight on it from the nose of the seat. Is it at or in front of or behind the crank axle? On a small bike (21"/53 cm or smaller), at or slightly in front (maybe 1/2") is a good start. On a larger bike (23"/58 cm or larger), behind up to an inch is a good place to start. (If the reach to yhour handlebars is too long or short, this will make things a lot harder to sort out. Seat position always comes first, But sometimes we have to change things up front just to be close enough that we can see and feel what is happening with the seat.)
If you cannot adjust your seat using the seatpost clamp bolts and the seatpin bolt to get a good starting place, see your bikeshop for possibly another post. If the post is now at a good starting point, ride it and see if it feels better. No? Your shop probably has a device to measure how far apart your sitbones are. It may well be that the seat you have doesn't match your width. If no, talk to them about exchanging it for a better match.
Then there are the intangibles. Cutouts and grooves that make such a huge difference for many of us. Non-grooved/cutout seats stopped working for me in my early 40s. The actual shape of the seat makes a huge difference. So do the materials and construction details. And the choices? Hundreds? I haven't counted. Life's too short.
There are shops that will allow yhou to try a seat on yhour bie for long enough to know if they work, then bring them back and try another. There are shops that have "libraries" where you can buy a card ($25 at a shop I know), take out any seat on the shelf and ride it a week, then return it and ride another. You can "take out" all 25 seats. And when you find one, your $25 goes toward it.
New bikes often come with less than the best seats. (There are manufacturers who figure you are going to get what works best for you and pricing the bike up with a more expensive seat that you are just going to take off anyway is a waste for all.) When you have your current seat adjusted as best you can, you will begin to see where its shortcomings are and be better informed on where to spend money for possibly a higher quality seat. But, and this is a huge but, if the next seat isn't right for you, the big pile of money you spent, the very high quality materials in it and the "gotta have it" factor will amount to absolutely zero comfort-wise except that it will delay you taking the next action to get it right. (Pride does that.)
Welcome, duele, to our forum. And welcome to the "find that seat" journey. (That seat is out there. Have faith and perseverance. It is so worth it!
Ben
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Try a saddle like the one shown above with a channel down the middle. I had the same problem but it is gone after I switched to a Fizik VSX saddle with a channel down the middle.
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I hate myself for not being able to resist clicking on any thread that has the word anus and scrotum in the title.
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I like this. The OP is riding for two weeks and suggestions include trying out different saddles.
Everyone gets sore when they first start riding. It's also natural to overdo it with rides in frequency and duration at the beginning.
OP, follow Datlas' advice in post no 5
Everyone gets sore when they first start riding. It's also natural to overdo it with rides in frequency and duration at the beginning.
OP, follow Datlas' advice in post no 5
Last edited by StanSeven; 05-05-16 at 05:39 PM.
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A lot of people struggle with this, I did for like a decade. Like others said the nicer way to phrase it is "perineum pain".
You do need a seat that fits your tail bones decently.
But what finally fixed it for me (after buying a better seat) was Pilates and taking a session with a physical therapist. It wasn't cheap, but after that I've been able to ride any half-decent seat with no perenium pain. There's a number of muscles in your core that get weak and practically collapse from sitting in chairs all the time, that keep the delicate area off from rubbing on the seat.
I think it cost me about $200 total at a pilates place with a groupon, but I would recommend it over spending a ton of money on different seats, bike fittings, etc like I did which helped a little but didn't solve the problem for me.
You do need a seat that fits your tail bones decently.
But what finally fixed it for me (after buying a better seat) was Pilates and taking a session with a physical therapist. It wasn't cheap, but after that I've been able to ride any half-decent seat with no perenium pain. There's a number of muscles in your core that get weak and practically collapse from sitting in chairs all the time, that keep the delicate area off from rubbing on the seat.
I think it cost me about $200 total at a pilates place with a groupon, but I would recommend it over spending a ton of money on different seats, bike fittings, etc like I did which helped a little but didn't solve the problem for me.
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#25
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I've ridden Brooks B-17 and Brooks Pro saddles most of my adult life, but as I hit my late sixties I began experiencing numbness and sometimes pain in my perineum area, especially on longer rides like the week-long 545 mile AIDS LifeCycle ride from San Francisco to Los Angeles. So, a few years ago, I tried several saddles with perineum cutouts and wound up buying a Selle SMP Pro which has eliminated both the pain and numbness.
Saddle selection, fit, and positioning vary greatly from rider to rider, so YMMV.
Selle SMP Saddles
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Saddle selection, fit, and positioning vary greatly from rider to rider, so YMMV.
Selle SMP Saddles
Medical Research