Garmin Sensor Cuts out
06-10-20, 01:26 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Garmin Sensor Cuts out
Hi there I have in the picture one of those older garmin cadence sensors
actually 3 in total, recently i changed the battery on one on my road bike, i even switched batteries,
battery is in good shape
however the sensor cuts out during rides
will work for a while then nothing at all, i usually have to push the reset button
on each cadence spin i get the red light instead of green
it is pairing with my Garmin 520 no problem, then cuts out
seems to be the actual sensor
suggestions please
actually 3 in total, recently i changed the battery on one on my road bike, i even switched batteries,
battery is in good shape
however the sensor cuts out during rides
will work for a while then nothing at all, i usually have to push the reset button
on each cadence spin i get the red light instead of green
it is pairing with my Garmin 520 no problem, then cuts out
seems to be the actual sensor
suggestions please
06-10-20, 01:52 PM
#2
In the wind
I'm having trouble with mine as well, although the cadence works fine, the speed sensor seems to be kaput.
I expect I'll eventually take it apart and see if there is something I can fix before I buy a new one.
I expect I'll eventually take it apart and see if there is something I can fix before I buy a new one.
06-10-20, 03:08 PM
#3
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I am not familiar with the Garmin units, but my standard response when my cadence or speed sensor goes on my VDO computer is to (1) check to see if it is close to the magnet or not, maybe re-adjust and then (2) clean the battery contacts when I change batteries.
06-11-20, 09:27 AM
#4
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What exactly do you mean by cut outs?
Is your wheel true enough and spokes correctly tensioned that the wheel doesn't flex the magnet too far from the sensor when you are going around curves and such? The sensor arm is not more than a couple mm from the magnet? And does line up with the little line on the sensor?
I have one bike that the chain stay is so close to the wheel, that I had to put the sensor arm up like yours. But if you can fold it down that might be better. I had a bottle come out of my bottle cage after a bump and as it was happily falling between my crank, wheel and the sensor it broke the arm off. If the arm had been down, I likely wouldn't have needed to get another. Though luckily, while chatting up a bike shop owner, he just happened to have one he'd replaced for the newer type sensor and gave it to me.
One of the things I did that resolved a lot of issues with the GSC-10 sensors is to change the auto pause setting from zero, to when less than 3 MPH. If I'm less than 3 mph, I'm about to fall anyway. Even the walkers I sometimes have to stay behind briefly are going a little over 3 MPH.
I also wonder if your magnet is backwards. Are you certain that is the side with the strongest magnet pull? I also have mine oriented so it trails behind the spoke in it's normal direction of rotation. But maybe that's too finicky to worry about and really be an issue.
Is your wheel true enough and spokes correctly tensioned that the wheel doesn't flex the magnet too far from the sensor when you are going around curves and such? The sensor arm is not more than a couple mm from the magnet? And does line up with the little line on the sensor?
I have one bike that the chain stay is so close to the wheel, that I had to put the sensor arm up like yours. But if you can fold it down that might be better. I had a bottle come out of my bottle cage after a bump and as it was happily falling between my crank, wheel and the sensor it broke the arm off. If the arm had been down, I likely wouldn't have needed to get another. Though luckily, while chatting up a bike shop owner, he just happened to have one he'd replaced for the newer type sensor and gave it to me.
One of the things I did that resolved a lot of issues with the GSC-10 sensors is to change the auto pause setting from zero, to when less than 3 MPH. If I'm less than 3 mph, I'm about to fall anyway. Even the walkers I sometimes have to stay behind briefly are going a little over 3 MPH.
I also wonder if your magnet is backwards. Are you certain that is the side with the strongest magnet pull? I also have mine oriented so it trails behind the spoke in it's normal direction of rotation. But maybe that's too finicky to worry about and really be an issue.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-11-20 at 09:33 AM.
06-11-20, 09:44 AM
#5
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When you run the test by pressing the reset button, if you don't get a green LED for every pass of the wheel magnet for about sixty passes, then either your magnet isn't lined up or your GSC-10 is toast. The little o-ring Garmin put on the battery cover deforms very easily if over tightened and moisture gets in. I have an old GSC-10 that got water in it 10 years ago and the wheel sensor part quit working even though I tried to dry it out. Maybe I should try it again. I left the battery cover off of it, so now I just have to figure out where it is.
