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First Ironman Ever - Is Steel Really Real?

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First Ironman Ever - Is Steel Really Real?

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Old 03-08-20, 01:09 PM
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amfarhat
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First Ironman Ever - Is Steel Really Real?

Hi everyone,
First time poster, long time lurker looking for some advice. I'm signed up for my first Ironman this year (Santa Rosa) and was hoping for some advice on what bike I should use. I have an old 1988 centurion ironman dave scott expert road bike 12 speed that I am comfortable on and was considering using it. I'm planning to strap some aero bars to it (and any other modifications you recommend) and calling it a day. I'm a medical student on a very tight budget so am hoping to avoid having to purchase another bike (like a cannondale caad 4 or 5) but may consider it if those who are more experienced think otherwise. This IM should be a one and done type of thing for me and I'm not trying to break any records here but also don't want to look like a clown come race day. What are your thoughts?
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Old 03-09-20, 09:36 AM
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doubravsky 
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I had a Centurion back in the 90’s. Solid bike once I swapped out the biopace chainrings! Add an aero bar and go for it! Triathletes are pretty friendly- and you’ll see other bikes there that are road bikes with some miles on them ..
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Old 03-10-20, 03:18 AM
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Triathletes tend to be the most enthusiastic and encouraging folks anywhere with a pleasant disposition. They have a much greater appreciation of the human element and his or her competitive drive and determination than whatever "ride" the person might be pedalling. As long as you're not aboard a single speed beach cruiser....
Long story about a famous Ironman winner who one year to prove a point that machinery had become too expensive and provided very little benefit if any to less than average participants, the particular famous person rode a cruiser in one particular event about 24 years ago. Well, after that, use of single speed beach cruisers was banned, as it seems some folks did not like the idea that the human element is much more important than bicycle technology in a triathlon. Average folks with the best bicycle equipment that money can buy don't like being embarassed by a super-athlete riding something like a 40 year old single speed beach cruiser that weighs 54 pounds.
You don't have the negativity that you have sometimes from the road- cyclist only folks who make up a large portion of bikeforums' posting activity.
Tri- competitors are far more positive and competitive and overall they are much better athletes than the road cyclist crowd. Tri-competitors are far less judgemental and rarely pre-judge someone's competitive probability based on the bicycle equipment that the tri-participant chooses to ride.
There is more to it than just the bike.
You've got to SWIM and the you've got to Transition as efficiently (fast...) and get aboard the bicycle and go go go.......Transition again efficiently and Run, Run Run, Run.
There is a reason that in most ordinary triathlons that the newcomer typical road-cyclist gets his or her butt kicked by the strong SWIMMERS and better than average runners too, because it is EASIER for a strong swimmer that is also an average runner riding average equipment to beat a competant road-cyclist riding great equipment but not a strong swimmer or runner. First time competant road cyclists (never before tricompetitors) vastly underestimate this fact. Transition times kill them.
Swimming times, give away so much to the better swimmers that they can't overcome the combined deficit in swim, run, and transition times with their superior bike time.

The class leading tri-athletes are great in all phases (SWIM, BIKE, RUN as well as transitions..).
Different courses are like differences in golf courses, where some competitors have slight advantages, and just as for example that a certain golf course can play differently from one day to the next due to weather, wind, heat, humidity, you get that and more on the tri-course and choppy water which is cold can make for something much more challenging for someone that is not a better than average swimmer.

My advice is ride the bicycle that you are most comfortable riding.
That Dave Scott '88 Ironman that you have is roughly about 23 pounds.
That should be okay to run the 56 mile bike ride in the IRONMAN 70.3
I'm assuming you're doing the 1/2 iron man at 70.3 but perhaps you're doing the final full ironman there.
I know it sounds silly but don't go nuts trying to get some 14 pound bike that will be squirrelly and require you to move your butt over the back wheel when you brake.
Anything you can do train for the hills on your particular area course, that cannot be understated.
You have to be completely comfortable and confident with the behavior of your bicycle.
#1 rule is do not crash, so you can then run and finish.
You've got to really seriously train for the swimming portion in similar conditions, as it isn't the same as swimming laps in an olympic pool and flip turns kicking off the wall. Running too should not be overlooked. It is a good idea to train against gravity (running up significant hills/grades as part of your running ritual.)
Swimming should be a huge part of your training unless you consider yourself a great swimmer.
Work with someone that you know that has significant tri experience and scheme to simulate transition situations and really practice that too.
Get out on the bike as much as possible and ride.
Try to find a park or other closed course where you have a couple of miles of paved roads with some hills and little to no automobile traffic and practice
riding full-out at speed with the aero bars and the camel-back bladder and bite tube. You have to essentially become one with your bicycle.
You must retain total focus because riding all out at speed in a triathlon on a course that you may have only scoped out the evening before while driving
the car along it's route. Rarely, would you get any chance to test it out on a bicycle because of normal traffic patterns...
Centurion Ironman Expert (1987-1989)

Have fun!
You'll have a ball.
Should your Iron Man course there have significant hills, you may wish to consider the possibility of a lower gear (more teeth) on your first gear rear sprocket.
That link above has the details and the gearing and relevant "gear inches" for comparative purposes.
There are several computational gear calc sites where you can plug in variables as well as seeing speeds achieved with certain sustained pedalling cadences etc.
Basically you ride as fast as you can which sounds so simple but it can be hard to keep the pace up any steep hills if the gearing leaves you too pooped out
trying to fight the hill because your lowest gear wasn't easy enough for you. You should test out your bicycle's gearing on some of your most difficult hills while you are training. Assess if any hills will be part of your tri course and whether you need to worry, as if your most difficult hills are not a concern for you with the current low gear gearing, you have no need to worry about any gearing changes. Make certain that your tires, tubes and brakes are in excellent shape before you begin to train.
Keep it that way throughout all of your training rides and double check and inspect everything. Stay alert and focused during all your training rides.
Inattention or any metal mistake can possibly get you seriously hurt as crashing at speed can be a life changing event.
Be prepared. Train. Stay focused. You'll do fine. You'll have fun. Don't Drown, Don't Crash, Don't trip, stumble, or fall or run in the wrong direction!
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