mpetry912 

yes Iride01 it looks like it says "Left" on there

so the OP has been "un-loosening" it. I think it's blowtorch time !

golly

/markp

3alarmer 

....at this point. I think I'd try cleaning up two opposite notches with a file, so they would fit a lock ring plier like the VAR.Then dose the thread interface with the BB shell liberally with ATF/acetone 50/50 mix. Then heat with a Mapp gas torch to break some of the corrosive bonding, apply the ATF/ acetone again, grab it with the pliers and hope for the best,


It looks beat up enough to be a total loss/throwaway at this point. So I guess you could also just try grabbing it with a pipe wrench going in the right direction, clamp that down on the ring surfaces as tight as you can, and using a pipe cheater on the handle of the wrench.

I hope you already removed the positioning cup from the other side. Sometimes that makes it easier to turn out the rest of the sealed unit.

This is how they go together. Often they were wrongly installed without any sort of anti-seize compound on the threads. The cups are aluminum alloy, so this is not an unusual problem.



I think your photo is the drive side, which is more or less integral with the shell of the sealed unit. The whole think turns for installation and removal. With the threading marked on yours, the drive side (the whole unit) is LH threaded. The non drive side is regular RH threading.

mpetry912 

that's going to be tough to get out

/markp

Kontact 

Since the cups are now trashed, the two best tools are either a pipe wrench or locking the cup in a bench vice and turning the frame.

Left side is right hand threaded (normal righty-tighty), the right side opposite thread.


Or you chop them out of the frame with an ax.

maddog34

Left.. the side that cup is made to fit... Arrow denotes Tightening Direction... lefty loosey

turn left bearing cup counter-clockwise to remove..

Exfi was punching in the correct direction.

that sucker's STUCK.

"heat is your friend"... a fellow mechanic that also owned the largest Dead blow hammer sold by Snap-On... we called that hammer "Patience"

i have Cuta similarly stuck cup out once.. with my high speed bosch grinder anda sacrificial 1/4" carbide burr... be careful t NOT cut into the threads of the frame.

grumpus

For some reason I also thought that was the DS but on closer examination it's the NDS, and he's been whacking it in the right direction, so it's just stuck and mangled. At this stage I'd try heat and the big pliers.

mpetry912 

what you might do is file 2 flats on opposite sides of the cup and use those to get a good grip with a really solid vise.

of course a couple of heat cycles and some penetratic oil, PB Blaster or Kroil beforehand

gonna be fun

/markp

Mr. 66

I'll say it again, the right tool with address the issue no problem, even with the cup all mangled up

Kontact 

There's no reason to think this BB is even stuck. This kind of cup has a lot friction on it and the metal is soft, so hitting it with a screwdriver tip is not going to make it move.

Large channel locks would have probably gotten it off by now in the hands of someone knowledgeable.

conspiratemus1

I think that's why the indents are semi-circular, to discourage attempts with hammer + screwdriver that got inflicted on lock rings in the classic era.