Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

TPU tube valve

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

TPU tube valve

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-08-24, 09:22 AM
  #1  
gauvins
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: QC Canada
Posts: 1,972

Bikes: Custom built LHT & Troll

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 846 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times in 106 Posts
TPU tube valve

I'll be trying these TPU tubes once more - they could have improved.

One thing. The valve isn't threaded and there's no retaining nut to secure it to the rim, which is what I do with butyl.

Thing is that when I inflate the TPU, with a hand pump, the valve is pushed inside, and eventually gets caught by the tube pressure, more often than not at some angle out of the vertical, and halfway inside the tire. Not good.

What is "the way"?
gauvins is offline  
Old 02-08-24, 10:30 AM
  #2  
jadmt
Senior Member
 
jadmt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Missoula MT
Posts: 1,767

Bikes: Handsome xoxo, Serotta atx, Canyon Endurace CF8

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 904 Post(s)
Liked 1,899 Times in 849 Posts
not sure why you are having that issue. I have not had an issue with maybe trying pushing down on the tire above the stem until there is sufficient pressure to hold it in place. looking at mine I can't see how the valve could even shift but probably more to do with the wheel then the tube in my case. I have them in two different wheelsets but both wheelsets are really similar.


jadmt is offline  
Old 02-08-24, 10:55 AM
  #3  
RB1-luvr
I don't know.
 
RB1-luvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: South Meriden, CT
Posts: 2,015

Bikes: '90 B'stone RB-1, '92 B'stone RB-2, '89 SuperGo Access Comp, '03 Access 69er, '23 Trek 520, '14 Ritchey Road Logic, '09 Kestrel Evoke, '08 Windsor Tourist, '17 Surly Wednesday, '89 Centurion Accordo, '15 CruX, '17 Ridley X-Night, '89 Marinoni

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 853 Times in 446 Posts
like jadmt wrote, press down on the tire where the valve is while putting the pump chuck on and keep the valve seated until there's enough pressure to hold it in place.
RB1-luvr is offline  
Likes For RB1-luvr:
Old 02-08-24, 03:58 PM
  #4  
gauvins
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: QC Canada
Posts: 1,972

Bikes: Custom built LHT & Troll

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 846 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times in 106 Posts
One reason could be that I've used a rather small MTB hand pump where the seal requires you to push against the valve (i.e. no chuck). I've switched to a MTB Morph (lightweight floor pump with chuck) -- there's no pressure on the valve, which has solved the problem. Conclusion seems to be to carry the Morph (or equivalent). Too bad -- I liked the hand pump
gauvins is offline  
Old 02-08-24, 04:13 PM
  #5  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,674
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times in 746 Posts
I worry about those plastic valves and using a mini pump with no hose or no proper chuck as it will wiggle the valve and possibly break it. Having a plastic valve is part of the reason those tubes are so lightweight but seem a little fragile to me. Any experienced TPU'ers have problems with this? I wouldn't mind trying them on my bike if the price wasn't so high but they sound interesting.
Crankycrank is offline  
Old 02-08-24, 04:23 PM
  #6  
mpetry912 
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,817

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,258 Times in 663 Posts
here's a trick I do - get some neoprene foam, fairly thin, and make a little "pillow" for the valve where it sits inside the rim bed

this will reduce or eliminate the little "pinches" that occur right next to the valve.

/markp

mpetry912 is offline  
Likes For mpetry912:
Old 02-08-24, 06:50 PM
  #7  
t2p
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,100

Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1400 Post(s)
Liked 1,885 Times in 1,084 Posts
Originally Posted by Crankycrank
I worry about those plastic valves and using a mini pump with no hose or no proper chuck as it will wiggle the valve and possibly break it. Having a plastic valve is part of the reason those tubes are so lightweight but seem a little fragile to me. Any experienced TPU'ers have problems with this? I wouldn't mind trying them on my bike if the price wasn't so high but they sound interesting.
I’ve had the core pull out of the stem on an Aerothan tpu tube - ham fisted user error mostly - but the plastic threads can be defeated

just gotta make sure the removable core is properly tightened / snug - and don’t pull up on it with a threaded chuck without loosening completely or pull up with chuck with a lip that can grab the threads of the core

RideNow tubes have a metal valve stem (the RideNow tubes I have at least ?)

Last edited by t2p; 02-08-24 at 06:54 PM.
t2p is online now  
Likes For t2p:
Old 02-08-24, 08:22 PM
  #8  
jadmt
Senior Member
 
jadmt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Missoula MT
Posts: 1,767

Bikes: Handsome xoxo, Serotta atx, Canyon Endurace CF8

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 904 Post(s)
Liked 1,899 Times in 849 Posts
Originally Posted by t2p
I’ve had the core pull out of the stem on an Aerothan tpu tube - ham fisted user error mostly - but the plastic threads can be defeated

just gotta make sure the removable core is properly tightened / snug - and don’t pull up on it with a threaded chuck without loosening completely or pull up with chuck with a lip that can grab the threads of the core

RideNow tubes have a metal valve stem (the RideNow tubes I have at least ?)
so I called Schwalbe and they told me to really tighten the cores down much more than you think was necessary. I said I was worried I would crack the stem and they said I would be ok. I tightened them down pretty good and have not had one pull out since. he said just using bare fingers would not get them tight enough and too use a valve core tool. this is how far I have them tightened down.

Last edited by jadmt; 02-09-24 at 08:44 AM.
jadmt is offline  
Likes For jadmt:
Old 02-08-24, 08:57 PM
  #9  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,725

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5792 Post(s)
Liked 2,583 Times in 1,432 Posts
You shouldn't be relying on the nut to keep the valve straight. It might end up masking a problem.

The key lies in the initial installation, making sure the tube is spread evenly around the rim so the valve is naturally straight. If so, it'll normally come back the same way.

That said, sometimes braking and accelerating forces the tire to walk on the rim, taking the tube with it.
Without a nut, the valve will alert you by leaning. A nut prevents that, and you won't know until the tube rips from the valve.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

Last edited by FBinNY; 02-08-24 at 11:45 PM.
FBinNY is offline  
Likes For FBinNY:
Old 02-09-24, 09:47 AM
  #10  
gauvins
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: QC Canada
Posts: 1,972

Bikes: Custom built LHT & Troll

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 846 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times in 106 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
You shouldn't be relying on the nut to keep the valve straight. It might end up masking a problem.
Not really to keep it straight, but to keep it stable during inflation. My hand pump works without chuck/screwed connector. The seal relies on applying pressure on the valve. I was hoping that as the tube inflates, the valve would progressively move into position (i.e. straight and out). Unfortunately, it tends to be pushed obliquely by the reinforcing layer close to the base of the valve.

I'll get a mini floor pump with threaded connector, which will hopefully solve the problem.
gauvins is offline  
Old 02-14-24, 03:08 PM
  #11  
rekmeyata
Senior Member
 
rekmeyata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,687

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1126 Post(s)
Liked 253 Times in 204 Posts
Originally Posted by Crankycrank
I worry about those plastic valves and using a mini pump with no hose or no proper chuck as it will wiggle the valve and possibly break it. Having a plastic valve is part of the reason those tubes are so lightweight but seem a little fragile to me. Any experienced TPU'ers have problems with this? I wouldn't mind trying them on my bike if the price wasn't so high but they sound interesting.
You have every right to be concerned because they have been breaking just as you are worried about them doing.
rekmeyata is offline  
Likes For rekmeyata:
Old 02-14-24, 03:32 PM
  #12  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,095

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times in 2,315 Posts
Originally Posted by gauvins
Not really to keep it straight, but to keep it stable during inflation. My hand pump works without chuck/screwed connector. The seal relies on applying pressure on the valve. I was hoping that as the tube inflates, the valve would progressively move into position (i.e. straight and out). Unfortunately, it tends to be pushed obliquely by the reinforcing layer close to the base of the valve.

I'll get a mini floor pump with threaded connector, which will hopefully solve the problem.
Why don't you want to use the common flip lever compressing a "rubber" seal around the valve type of air chuck on your pumps? One of the reasons why they are the common air connector for so many pumps for so many years is that they work better than screw on or push on chucks do.

When I did use push on only chucks (back in the 1970s with the Zefal Competition frame pump)let the tire become nearly flat (s long as the tire had some pressure already in it the valve wanting to be pushed in by my handling wasn't a big deal. When the tube had near zero pressure in it I would push onto the tire so it would crush down and press against the valve deep in the rim, this keeps the valve from being pushed in too much.

But the real solution for the (we hope) vast number of times when you use a pump (as you start out for a ride) is to have an easily worked with floor pump. When I was selling bikes that suggestion came before on the ride flat fixing stuff. Being able to start your ride with topped off tire pressure (whatever that is for your bike) is the #1 way to avoid flats on your ride. When you shop for that floor pump you mention I strongly suggest you test/trial inflate your tire with it BEFORE buying. Bring your front wheel to a shop and ask them if you can buy THE pump that you find you can work with. If you have a difficult time working their pumps ask for instructions/help. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 02-14-24, 05:18 PM
  #13  
gauvins
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: QC Canada
Posts: 1,972

Bikes: Custom built LHT & Troll

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 846 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times in 106 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Why don't you want to use the common flip lever compressing a "rubber" seal around the valve type of air chuck on your pumps?
[Thanks for your detailed answer]

It is not what I want, but what I had. An otherwise excellent high volume pump. Didn't notice any issue because I was riding on butyl (threaded valve secured with a nut).

This is in the context of touring, where a full size floor pump is impractical. I already have a chuck+lever hand pump (1) not that easy to raise the lever with a 36-spoke wheel and fat fingers; (2) hand pumps are quite likely to exert pressure on the valve. So I got the Lezyne Micro Floor pump. The connector is not the easiest to set on the valve (or on the pump receptacle for that matter), but it is certainly much gentler on the valve than what I had.

Being somewhat lazy, and touring on 2.1" tires at low pressure (30psi) I add air... once a month or so

Last edited by gauvins; 02-15-24 at 10:14 AM.
gauvins is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.